Turnout and Derailment question

If I were to use this 054/072 Atlas switch, would my 072 trains have problems or derail going through the 054 leg of this switch?

I would say YES, IF they're full length passenger cars/engines with fixed pilots and/or Kadee couplers.

If you know someone who has this particular turnout I would ask to try out a couple of cars and engines to see what happens.  If you're getting them from your LHS ask them if they would setup a demonstration before you buy.

I have a WBB E7 that I fixed the pilot on and applied Kadee couplers to and it will not go thru an 0-54 turnout without derailing, works fine on 0-72 curves and turnouts.

As far as having the turnout flat, I would think as long as there's no vertical bending of the rails of the turnout you're OK.  You do not want a "hump" in the middle of the turnout, just asking for trouble.

As bob said Yes .For a curved turnout you'll need to incorporate a 0-96 -0-72 curved turnout if you want it to work.

Turnouts need to be flat in ALL respects . If you twist it it will derail, it will cause shorts as your engines pass over it.
I use a carpenters square to check my turnouts . The 2 outside rails of a turnout are called the stock rails. On a regular turnout one stock rail is straight and one curved.
You can lay the square on top of the stock rail and check to see if it's flat. Then right near the frog points (The "V" part) lay the square cross ways to make sure it's not twisted. I use a 24 inch square so my square rests on the adjoining rails not the stock rails so I can be sure the switch is flat.
If the switch is on an incline you have to maintain that incline into the transition. Thats the part where your engine is going to the siding or where ever it's going so that you don't twist the switch . If you do it will derail. Once you cleared the transition you can reduce your incline to flatten out.

David

Hi Peter, You should pay close attention to what David is saying above, he knows of what he speaks. Picture your switch on an incline now the straight track is no problem, but the turnout must stay on that incline. If you have a 3% grade that means your turn must follow that grade and then comeback to level.

Can it be done? Yes it can, but not with out alot of work. You also have to remember that some engines will take the switch but others may not.

My rule is flat and level for all swithes.

Another tip is to make sure that when coming off a grade that is curved make sure you provide at lest eight inches of straight track  approach before going into the switch. This will permit your pilot wheels to align with the rails so as not to snag on the points and jump track. The above straight section is not needed when going into the turn out leg of the switch but flat and level is always a must.

I like to use a torpedo level to make sure everything is level, but Dave's square is a very good tool to use for this.

I also like to use one of Lionel's 4-4-2 starter steam engines that have free spinning wheels to test my switches. Believe me, if there is a problem with a turnout that little puppy will find it. In fact if you push it through the switch by hand you can feel any snags or bumps through the dicast body.

The LCCA had some of those engines for sale at a very good price, I think they are still available  on the web site. If not pick one up at a train show, they really are about the best switch tester  that I have come across.

Well I hope I was of some help to you, have fun.

We've one locomotive, an MTH Challenger, on which the front drivers always derail going through one particular Ross 080 turnout.  We've fiddled with the turnout, the points, the motor, the locomotive, the approach and departing tracks, all to no success.  It derails, slow or fast, the lead driver climbs the track at the points, and only going through it one way.

Decided we'll probably never resolve the issue.

New switch?

Mario has touched on a very important tool when not only installing switches but laying track as well. When I make hand made turnouts I keep a set of trucks on my bench. This way as I lay the rails and set my frog points and transition rails I can run the truck thru the switch. Believe me I can feel and see when something is amiss.
I end up with a turnout thats smooth as glass and engines and cars will go thru without a wobble.
When trouble shooting switch problems the spare set of trucks will usually find  a problem in no time flat.
Good one Mario.

David

Hi Kerrigan, how level is the approach to the switch. A Challenger has a pritty long body on it. Is it possible that the problem is on the back end of the engine pushing the pilot up?

This is the same problem I had with a switch that was on an incline. Most engines went through it just fine but my Rail King Challengers' pilot wheel would go off in the wrong direction, or the front articulation wheel assembly would not follow the pilot.

I leveled out the switch as discribe above and the problem went away.

Hadn't thought of that Mario!

I'll throw a long level on it and see if the approach is flat or otherwise.  Thanks!

Since that challenger isn't a "free" roller I would check the exact point where the derail occurs . It makes it a little harder to find a problem when you can't freely roll the offending culprit thru the switch. I can't say this enough: That a problem on one side of a switch is usually caused by something being out of whack on the other side of the switch. So check your guard rails. Spacing for O scale 3 rail should be about a 1/4 inch from the stock rail .

If it's a Ross switch he's pretty good about maintaining good clearance on his switches.If the switch isn't all the way flat the forward roller can actually hit the switch points and force them away from the rail allowing the front set of drivers to pick the switch.If the pilot derails first it's usually a guard rail problem. One problem with the Ross switches I've found is over time (And if your switch isn't flat) The track nails tend to come loose.When this happens and it will I just put a dab of glue in the hole and reset the nail. I also keep a can of O scale rail spikes handy for those nails I can't reuse.

David

Thanks for all the helpful advice.  Will take another look at my plan and make some mods.

Peter