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This isnothing earth shatteringly important, but a nice little project that worked out well.

 

A previous thread had spoken of the death of "plan jane" cars in O-gauge, with every manufacturer offering plenty of exotics, Eldorados, Rolls, etc.  I agree and its a problem for me.  I want a normal everyday distribution of cars in the downtown areas of my layout, but I have way too many Caddies and XK-120s and not nearly enough plain, unmemorable sedans, etc.

 

Before Christmas I found these two nice Solido models - '48 Chrysler Windsor sedan, '50 Chevy Sedan, on Diecast Direct - unfortunately both were bright red with with Coca Cola emblems.  I bought them anyway.  I managed to get the Coca Cola emblems off with alcohol and Q-tips without damaging the paint surface, but red is not a "plain jane" color so I disassembled both entirely and repainted both using rattle cans from Ace Hardware.  I did not prime or "prepare"the surface of either car (beyond dusting well).  I let them dry three days and then cooked them at 170 deg or so in a convenction oven for six hours to harden the paint (try this on something inexpensive first, I won't guarrantee it will work every time).  Reassembled, they are splendid models.  The Lincoln, in particular, looks factory quality paint. 

 

In the lower photo (with flash) you can see something that worked out well that I did just before reassembling the Chevy.  I used a felt tip pen to make the upholstery two-tone, in something of the pattern it would have been.  Looks good, even down to a nice "vinyl" shine.

 

Incidently, the Solido '50 Chevy is a great body to convert to Superstreets (lower photo) I have two factory-painted taxi bodies of this model fitted to shorted vintage truck chassis.

plain jane cars

Taxi Chevy

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Baking: as I said, test this with your specific paint on something cheap, first.  I've had paints that change color go from red to orange or turn brownish when baked.  Also, keep the temp low - I never go over 175 deg.  Finally, I wait three days before baking to let the paint dry before baking.  Not sure that is necessary but it is easy and so far it works so I take the time.

 

someone asked about taking the cars apart.  Obviously, you do it carefully.  On most cars, the small chrome parts are held on from the other side with a small beg that passes through and is melted to sort of rivet it.  I cut that off with a #11 Xacto and then push them out from behind.  I didn't break any parts on these but I have on a few occasions in the past but was able to glue/patch things up well.

Originally Posted by TheClutchGuy:

Repainting die-cast cars is a project that I always wanted to tackle but I was always afraid to try to disassemble the cars. How do you remove all of the trim without breaking it? How do you remove the wheels without damaging them and the axles?

You remove the chassis from the body. On the better cars, they are attached with Philips screws. Older and/or cheaper cars use rivets. You have to drill out the rivets, then when you put it back together you can either put in a new rivet or drill and tap for small machine screws. I prefer the screws. I just looked at a Franklin Mint car; it appears that the bumpers are held on with the same screws as the body. 

 

For baking the paint, a couple of years ago somebody posted a picture on this forum of a homemade paint baking setup made from a cardboard box lined with aluminum foil and a couple of heat lamps mounted above it. He claimed it worked great. I've never tried it but I'm thinking about it. 

Do you guys ever look at the OGR F/S forum? I have two different Packard listings.

Taking cars apart depends on the maker. Some cars have screws and others rivets. I do quite a bit of mods and find FM cars can be a PITA. The Solido and YM Studes have screws and the White Rose Ford has rivets.

Bob

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