I found a few Weaver flats with trailers made for 2 rail that I bought and have not got yet. Can I run them on Gar graves track and Ross switches as is or will I have to change out the wheels. Any help appreciated. Thanks Paul
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You can try to run the 2 rail Weaver on Gargraves or Ross track, if you have the switch set up for non-derailing like the Lionel 022 post war switches the 2 rail won't activate the switch as the wheels are separated electrically. You may have to change the wheels over to 3 rail, can't say for sure.
Lee Fritz
Generally will run good when moving forward. Running in reverse thru a switch may be a problem. The Kadee couplers mate to some of the bigger knuckle and not others. Older railking seem to work. Best to see which work for you. Also, the larger the curves the better everything works.
Dan
Lee and Dan thanks for that information. One other question. Does the Kadee or whatever Weaver uses come off the car body easily. I have a bunch of their plastic couplers. I am assuming that the two rail truck and three rail truck attach the same way. I do have larger curves and my switches are not small turnouts..................Paul
What I have seen on the Weaver cars I have is the trucks mount to the frame and the coupler mounts separately to the frame. Lionel style(Lionel, K-Line, Atlas & RMT) trucks have the coupler in the truck assembly.
Two rail and three rail truck assemblies are usually very different in design and I would not recommend mixing them on a train.
Weaver is more scale like then Lionel and others, so be careful when mixing Weaver cars with Lionel style trucks on the same train.
Lee Fritz
To get back to the wheels themselves, and this is the voice of experience, some "2-rail wheels" will work fine on GG and other Hi-Rail switches, most won't.
2 reasons:
A - the flange is so shallow that it allows the wheel to drop too far into the Hi-rail switch flangeways, whereupon it tends to wander off the track
B - the scale wheel (they are not really "2-rail" wheels) is typically narrower than the Hi-rail, contributing to the issue in point "A"
C - 3-axle trucks more often can get away with it as there are almost always 2 axles still on the track; but not every time, as the smaller, sharper flanges are more likely to split switches, specially when backing up, as on a tender. I solved this on a brass tender with "2-rail" trucks by putting a single Hi-rail wheelset in the last position on each 3-axle truck. Backing up through switches problem solved. Not visually obvious, either.
D500 Thanks for that additional information................Paul
I did the 2R wheels for awhile on my switching layout, but eventually went back to 3R wheels. Too inconsistent for me. Forward is normally ok, but normally is not good enough for me. Shove movements were horrible through Ross turnouts. I do not accept derailments due to track or track work, so I swapped everything back to 3R. Even my fixed pilot diesels from MTH, I buy the 2R wheels and trade them out for 3R wheel sets. No more derailments, in either direction.
If you have 3 rails anyway, the hassle of trying to keep 2R flanges on the 3R track, just isn't worth it to me.