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What I have seen on the Weaver cars I have is the trucks mount to the frame and the coupler mounts separately to the frame. Lionel style(Lionel, K-Line, Atlas & RMT) trucks have the coupler in the truck assembly. 

Two rail and three rail truck assemblies are usually very different in design and I would not recommend mixing them on a train.

Weaver is more scale like then Lionel and others, so be careful when mixing Weaver cars with Lionel style trucks on the same train.

Lee Fritz

Last edited by phillyreading

To get back to the wheels themselves, and this is the voice of experience, some "2-rail wheels" will work fine on GG and other Hi-Rail switches, most won't. 

2 reasons:

A - the flange is so shallow that it allows the wheel to drop too far into the Hi-rail switch flangeways, whereupon it tends to wander off the track

B - the scale wheel (they are not really "2-rail" wheels) is typically narrower than the Hi-rail, contributing to the issue in point "A"

C - 3-axle trucks more often can get away with it as there are almost always 2 axles still on the track; but not every time, as the smaller, sharper flanges are more likely to split switches, specially when backing up, as on a tender. I solved this on a brass tender with "2-rail" trucks by putting a single Hi-rail wheelset in the last position on each 3-axle truck. Backing up through switches problem solved. Not visually obvious, either.   

I did the 2R wheels for awhile on my switching layout, but eventually went back to 3R wheels. Too inconsistent for me. Forward is normally ok, but normally is not good enough for me. Shove movements were horrible through Ross turnouts. I do not accept derailments due to track or track work, so I swapped everything back to 3R. Even my fixed pilot diesels from MTH, I buy the 2R wheels and trade them out for 3R wheel sets. No more derailments, in either direction.

If you have 3 rails anyway, the hassle of trying to keep 2R flanges on the 3R track, just isn't worth it to me.

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