I'm not satisfied, and spoiled of course, with Cruise Command on my engines. But in running my Weaver PRR Baldwin 2-8-0 today without cruise, and to me, not the best sound. Opinion, should I upgrade with ERR Cruise Commander "M" kit, and new sound system? Or, sell and purchase new engine?
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Those are very nice diecast locomotives. I have one that is Grand Canyon.
It's more of a shelf model. Weaver did an offering of the H10 Consolidation that I did have upgraded to EOB. IMO maybe a better candidate for an upgrade.
First on the turntable. Click on the triangle.
josef,
IMHO You will kick yourself in the britches if you do sell it. It's a beautiful locomotive that's
worthy of being displayed under glass. (while you save for another)
God Bless,
"Pappy"
Josef -
You can upgrade for less than $200, if you do it yourself, and it is not hard. Check
Modern Toy Train Parts' website - kits for this, or he will do it, if you prefer.
I have one that I custom lettered (GM&O) several years ago. I wish that it had cruise, also, but I think that I'll skip it.
Nice locos. We need more 2-8-0's.
Wonder how hard it woukd be to just add the Cruise Commander "M" module? I probable could attempt it when my arthritis isn't so bad, and take my time, (even if it may take a month oir so). If I mess up, I guess I can pay someone to do it. Thanks for recommendations.
Mike, keep them videos coming from your layout.
Assuming your engine has Lionel TMCC in it then the Cruise Commander M is only $85 and RailSounds is only $90. I'm not sure what others charge but i get those prices for the units installed with the only extra being shipping and no more than $20 additional if i have to make a tether. They're really an easy DIY project.
jackson
I would upgrade it if I were you.
Assuming your engine has Lionel TMCC in it then the Cruise Commander M is only $85 and RailSounds is only $90. I'm not sure what others charge but i get those prices for the units installed with the only extra being shipping and no more than $20 additional if i have to make a tether. They're really an easy DIY project.
jackson
I checked the prices out on the modules, but it would cost I'm sure double that, plus shipping for someone to install.
I'm sure it's an easy job, but someone with arthritis, just unscrewing the tender is a hard job, but can do slowly. Wires when they are small, is something else, trying to grasp them. (Now I know why I don't do N or HO). One time it took me over a week to just reassemble an engine changing out a light. Probable something the average person does in 10 minutes.
I will order the module thought. Talked into it.
Josef,
As an ERR dealer, i only charge the price of the part (plus shipping) to a customer with no additional labor charges (unless i have to make up a tether) for installation. I don't know what others charge. This has been my price for as long as i've been doing this. i used to do this for 3 hobby shops which are no longer in business (owners of 2 died and 1 retired). i don't retail the parts to the public, but will install on a retail level, my profit only coming from what i make on the parts.
jackson
Wonder how hard it woukd be to just add the Cruise Commander "M" module? I probable could attempt it when my arthritis isn't so bad, and take my time, (even if it may take a month oir so). If I mess up, I guess I can pay someone to do it. Thanks for recommendations.
Mike, keep them videos coming from your layout.
It is very easy to add the Cruise Commander M if you have the Lionel modular electronics. I'm not sure what vintage that Weaver is, but I have the Weaver Reading G2SA brass locomotive, and it had the standard Lionel package. I upgraded it to the CC-M and then I installed a fan driven smoke unit and my Super-Chuffer, it's really a nice little package now.
Seriously, by the time I get really dis-satisied with a loco, its obsolete, which means I get little for it re-selling it, if I would.
So, my preferred strategy; keep it, and buy the new.
IMO It's just a matter of money.Sometimes it's just "time".Sell the old,let somebody else enjoy them,and put the money towards a new one,(one's)-Repeat as needed,if not satisfied with the results continue to re-apply.Nick
You must go through a lot of money doing that!
Those are very nice diecast locomotives. I have one that is Grand Canyon.
It's more of a shelf model. Weaver did an offering of the H10 Consolidation that I did have upgraded to EOB. IMO maybe a better candidate for an upgrade.
First on the turntable. Click on the triangle.
That turntable works beautifully. It rotates smoothly and the most impressive part is that there is no track sag when the loco moves on and off.
Nicely done!
sell the old one and buy new
Older Diamond Scale OT105 Turntable. At the time the choices were Bowser and Diamond Scale. Diamond Scale TT's were far superior to the Bowser TT's. I used Diamond Scale parts when I built a larger TT that the Fort Pitt High-railers use.
"issues"??????? Other than cutting back production (array of products) which according to a person at Weaver is due to so much market saturation by other manufacturers, what are you referring to? The word "issues" in your context to me implies a problem; i've never had a problem with any Weaver product i own. Please explain.
jackson
Not being familiar with old Weaver motive power I assume they're equipped with can motors? Otherwise, forget about cruise.
I'd strongly suggest the upgrade rather than the huge loss on replacing with new.
Bruce
All DC motors.
There is really nothing on the market comparable to the Weaver 2-8-0. If you want a small steamer for freight and mixed trains, it's one of the best things you can find anywhere, at any price. I'd upgrade it in a heartbeat. I have one and the only question for me is whether to put ERR in it, which means I'll have to install a reed switch and magnets for the chuff, or install an old TAS EOB setup (I have a couple in my parts box), which saves me messing with the chuff but means I have to install a tach reader and flywheel tape.
The sound can be improved with a better speaker. I don't think a current-issue ERR sound module would be all that much better than the original, if both had equal speakers. There's an outfit called Madison online that a lot of people on this forum have recommended for speakers. Also, if you can put a baffle (enclosure) behind the speaker, that will improve sound volume and quality. My experience with stereos tells me that the speaker and its enclosure are the most important ingredient in good sound, way above the electronics.
You would think that one can be had on the Buy Sell forum, post an ad. They were relatively inexpensive when new. I believe the electronics was Standard TMCC, but no speed control. There were some modeling liberties taken. Grand Canyon #29 is an Alco locomotive, not a Baldwin.