The problem with bullfrog snot in my opinion, it is designed for drive wheels that are flat [without grooves] and to be put on the wheel evenly, as it rotates, a few mils thick.
It seems to me the silicone is a much better approach, if you are not going to replace the traction tire in kind.
The problem with bullfrog snot in my opinion, it is designed for drive wheels that are flat [without grooves] and to be put on the wheel evenly, as it rotates, a few mils thick.
It seems to me the silicone is a much better approach, if you are not going to replace the traction tire in kind.
You could be right, but a few of us in the Independent Hi-Railers, Midwest Division, have applied Bull Frog Snot to a few MTH steam locomotive models, and have had no problems. However, we do layer the snot with multiple applications, 30 minutes to an hour apart, thus filling the tire groove completely, and then let the model sit up-side-down over night to cure.
I went in to hobby shop to buy Bullfrog Snot and was blown away by the $25 plus tax price for a small jar! That's way too expensive for traction tires, so like Dennis does, I will use the silicone.
I've wondered if "Bullfrog Snot" is maybe similar to "anti-squeal compound" used on the back side of automotive brake shoes. The stuff I used some years ago for a brake job has the appearance of thinned-out red silicon caulk RTV. It is still in useable condition after several years and I have occasionally used it for sticking weights into rail cars etc.
I prefer steel wheels with weight for traction like real trains, but I do have a few secondhand O-gauge powered units with traction tires.
For my MTH Premier Hudson from 2004 volume 2 catalog, it was just one hex screw that comes off, then I slipped the worn tire off and used a replacement tire that came with the engine.
Not too bad, maybe took me 10 minutes.
Steve
Replace a tire with a tire. Do things right
I'm with Marty here, replace a tire with a tire not snot and not silicone. The right way is always the best way.
I tried this stuff on a postwar Lionel 2026 without magnatraction that wouldn't pull more than three cars without slipping. This stuff worked. Now the 2026 will pull a standard 5 or 6 car postwar train without slipping. I haven't tried any longer trains on account of I don't think the motor on the 2026 is built to take more than the standard postwar freight set.
Sorry to dredge up an old topic, but I just spent a half hour of pure frustration, trying to put a tire back on a diesel. I even used dental picks, but it is impossible to get them into that small space, and there is no way to see what you're doing.
For most diesels, Lionel recommends that you take it to a service station. You have to disassemble the entire engine to free the truck then unstake the side frame, change the tire, and restake it. What a pain!!!
For the cost of the gas and the labor, not to mention the two week wait, the $25 jar of Bullfrog Snot seems cheap and easy. I wish I could just leave the tires off, but I'm not sure how well that would work.
What specific diesel are you putting this on? I've put them on tons of diesel models, and I've never had to unstake anything! You do have to remove the sideframes many times, though I can get them onto many without doing that.
I use my Bullfrog Snot on all of my locomotives with grooves for traction tires or without grooves. Takes a little practice to apply it but sure outlasts traction tires. After two years, mine is still pliable out of the jar. I feel it is a great product!
...keep the rails polished...
RTV silicone works just as good as Bullfrog snot and is about 5 dollars for a tube. Follow Hotwater's advice and layer it and let it cure. Winter temps affect curing times greatly, no heat in my train room, and it took about a week. But that was over two years ago and it is still going strong pulling 11 passenger cars.
Good luck,
Bob
What specific diesel are you putting this on? I've put them on tons of diesel models, and I've never had to unstake anything! You do have to remove the sideframes many times, though I can get them onto many without doing that.
John, it's the middle wheel on an SD-70. Is there a screw that holds the side frame on? Without taking it all apart, I can't see how it is attached. I just remember that a lot of older engines had the side frames staked on. I don't own an arbor press.
I must admit, I haven't worked on modern equipment much. I have more experience with MPC and PW.
Crisis averted! Patrick to the rescue. He got the tire on. I guess I own the right tools, but between my fat fingers and ever decreasing patience, I failed. I also see that there are screws that hold the sideframes on, but a fair amount of disassembly has to be done to access them.
No Bullfrog Snot for now.
I'll agree that some of the diesels had to be somewhat disassembled to get to the sideframe screws. I have seen some of the MPC stuff with the staked frames, but so far the traction tire fit under without taking them off.
If I remember correctly, the MPC stuff has a bigger gap between the sideframe and the wheel.
Probably because you couldn't take the sideframes off. 
I suspect that the tires will work if properly sized and installed. I'd get some new tires and install them. If you're selling it, having a non-stock modification will reduce the value for many folks I would imagine. I know that I'd want the stock tires on an engine that I was buying.
For my MTH Premier Hudson from 2004 volume 2 catalog, it was just one hex screw that comes off, then I slipped the worn tire off and used a replacement tire that came with the engine.
Not too bad, maybe took me 10 minutes.
Steve
Lucky you! Ever own a Lionel Articulated where the tire goes on the wheel BEHIND the steam chest?
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