using 180 watt bricks and also 80 watt transformers to power lights and acsesseries and signals on a layout

If the bricks are the PH180's, the voltage will be too high (18v) for most accessories and lights as a direct source. Do you have the ZW-C for the bricks?

Count up the lights (separate led from incandescent)and make a list of the accessories. Then you can group them by voltage and load electrically.

The CW-80's should be able power a lot of them.

If the bricks are the PH135, they can have even higher voltages, some of them were over 20 volts!  The MTH Z series bricks also had some higher voltages early on.

If you do not have a ZW-C controller to vary the voltage, and you have Legacy or TMCC, you can find an older Lionel Accessory Voltage Controller (AVC/6-14186) relatively cheap on Dash Auctions that will control the PH.  They are expensive on eBay.

If you want more power than the 80 watt transformer can deliver, you might be better off selling both and getting a dedicated transformer for your accessories.  A post war ZW (in exc condition) has as much power as the PH180 and you can set 4 different voltages.

There are several off-the-shelf items that will work to plug in to your bricks to provide controlled output(s)-

-a BW(80 watt) transformer controller

-a GW(180 watt) transformer controller

-a 12885(40 watt) transformer controller

-a MTH Z500, Z750, or Z1000 controller

-a 135 Watt PowerStation controller from the 12938 PowerStation/PowerHouse(135 Watt Brick) set.

Any of these can be connected to the brick output and phased for use with your signals.

thanks for the info I will try that I have the gw already

Hi!

I think a number of us have traveled this winding road of how best to power accessories and signals with transformers we have laying about.  My suggestions would be:

1. Sell off the PH180s - they should bring a decent return.
2. Purchase commercial 12VDC power supplies (regulated, UL etc) from electrical supply houses.  They are cheap, reliable, and safe.  Power your accessories from these using DC.
3. Power your switch machines and signals from an accessory AC transformer.  The K-Line PowerChief 120F is a pretty good one (you can still find them around).  It has multiple fixed taps.

Best,

George

Many accessories don't run on DC well, so that advice is only halfway valid.

Why not add an accessory voltage controller to your 180w brick(s). Lionels powerhouses are a ton of power with a super fast acting breaker.

These allow you to set the voltage coming out of the brick.

http://www.lionel.com/products...ntroller-avc-6-14186

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...ents/71-4186-250.pdf

I imagine one brick will power a ton of stuff, sell off what you don't need when you decide what your requirements are.

 FWIW,the accessory terminals of your CW -80s can be set to a desired voltage as well.

You'll need a volt meter to check your output when setting the brick / AVC or CW-80 these can be found online and at your local hardware store for $20 or less.

I have this  Gardener Bender GTD 311  and it works like a charm:

Lights certainly aren't an issue on DC.  What accessories were you thinking of?  Besides the PowerChief 120F covers the AC side of the waterfront.

Anything with a vibrating motor, the freight station comes to mind right off, as well as the barrel loader accessory.  The #464 Lumber mill is another one.

As well as the 140, 494, 342, 345, 197, 192, 128, 155, 264, 3356 corral, and more.

Thanks Rob.

OK, thanks for the update.  I don't run any of those, but as I said, the PowerChief 120F could serve those accessories requiring AC.

George