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Hey guys,  starting to plan my next layout.  I wanted to use foam , so I can create streams and ditches and so forth. 1/2 ply and then I thought 3/4" foam surface.  Screwing realtrax down.  Just use long screws to go into plywood?  That's what I thought at least.  the pink stuff is ridged enough not to compress as to cause the track to pull on it as long as I don't screw it down too much.   when carving the foam for ditches, what do you guys use to cut a swale?  I have a hotwire, but I think that won't do it right.  Other tools.?   Thanks all!   Chris

 

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Ok, I didn't think it would fasten into it. Great news. Maybe I'll get them long enough to bite well into the foam depending on the depth.  Thanks for the tips.  How about the clear adhesive caulk?  I use that on my crown moulding and baseboard to fill the gaps and it adheres well.  I am going to test the screws and a few dabs of the adhesive caulk on a piece of foam.   Much appreciated guys!   I'll post up pics when I get around to starting it.  November!

 

Some forum members drill a hole and use wire ties, zip ties or cable ties. One end through with the head in the screw depression in the track and another one underneath with the head attached. Pull snug, but not too tight. You don't need to do every piece of track.

 

The 4" length usually has a small head and narrow thickness. 

I worry about shifting, not gonna turn it upside down often.  The screws are acting like dowel posts. The vertical hold is a bonus. Testing of any adhesive on smooth and roughened surfaces of a piece of scrap foam, would be a good idea. Watch for chemical melting of the foam, pull to test holding power on smooth & rough areas    

My basement layout is all MTH Real Trax, and it expands and contracts so don't hard mount every section. Go easy on the switches as you do not want to induce bending stresses into these.

 

If I were building a new layout, the sectional track would be glued to the foam with a cement that dries flexible, perhaps Liquid Nails.

 

I used a product from Home Depot to cover all the foam boards and then put a skim coat of Gyposlite on top. Once it was dry I painted it and layed the track on top.  I used drywall trim screws to hold the track in place.  I found two differnt lengths and the diameter of the screw is very close to the hole in the track.  All the screw does is hold the track in place.  This is the roll of material from Home Depot.  BOEN 36 in. x 75 ft. Self-Adhesive Fiberglass Drywall Joint Tape Mesh FM-3675

I would suggest glue instead of relying on screws if your engine is heavy.  As the engine goes around the curves, it imparts a force tangent to the curve itself that will, in time, possibly pull up any screw in that area.  One thing that could be done is to drill the hole, remove the track section, push some glue or caulk into the hole and insert a small plastic expansion sleeve.  After replacing the track section, insert the screw into the sleeve and tighten.  As you screw it down, the bottom of the sleeve will flare out gripping the foam.  Since the sleeve is plastic and smooth, any glue or caulk surrounding it will make a tighter seal than just inserting a bare screw.  A bare screw will twist around as you tighten it and there's no telling how the glue or caulk inside the hole will wrap around the metal threads and contact the foam.  An expansion sleeve will grasp the foam much more evenly for a better bond.  As you screw down and the bottom flares out, it will press the glue or caulk into the sides of the foam with less chance of pulling out.  This is the same technique as if you were placing a screw into drywall to affix something on the wall.  A screw can rip out of drywall, but the expansion sleeve holds everything in place.....good luck! 

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