WEATHERING TRUCKS ?

you might try dry brushing some silver or white. Old modelers trick.

I paint my truck a grimey black, then add chalk powders as needed. Dark browns and some light greys. Then put some rust on it. Then spray with a dullcoat covering.

Good evening

I think I'm going to try the dry powders, sure hope the hobby shop in Toledo has the right stuff. Other wise it's a trip to P&D. Before dry powders should I dull coat it? The finish on it now is glossy and seems slippery. Or is that why grimey black first? I found the posting on weathering that helped a lot.

Clem 

Thank you rattler21

clem 

Clem ,

Go to ACE hardware get 2 small cans of brush paint , grey primer , and flat black , total of 10 bucks , mix them a little at a time only need a little of each more gray than black will get you a nice weathered look . Just brush it on carefully and sparingly let dry ..

10 bucks worth will do about 100 trucks , if you have an airbrush thin it 50%

Put them in an oven on 200 bake for an hour or so . 

NOW seal them with dullcoat lacquer good .

NEXT  take straight black and thin it 10% paint 90% thinner , brush over trucks the thin black will run in every crevice and the details will pop out , let dry over nite , dull coat again  then do Cheap chalk  different colors based on pictures of slight rust mainly the leaf spring , after one set you will be a pro .

Bernie

Clem

one last thing the piston arm out of brake cylinder , paint a shiny silver as the final touch and the pints are in rustoleum and ACE brand (pints)

once you get it down you will want to do all your trucks

Clem, spray it with Dullcoat and then apply modelling rust powder or chalks with a brush or Q-tip.

Plus 1.  And Micro Mark has the chalks.  You need those abrasive screens and a soft brush. And remember, Dullcote will cut it down considerably.

Try Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter...available at auto parts stores...check their website for more info...

I've been using the same method as J Daddy and like the results.  However, I must admit that I'm intrigued by Bernie's method...just may have to give that a try!

I spray them with Testors Dullcoat, then dirty them up nice, with powders...

The thread is here: Weathering a scale diesel.

Don't forget to give the body a nice coat, as well...  Not too much to make it white, just dull them up a little...

Clem it really depends on the look you are going for. Either way, they must have a flat finish to grab the chalk/powder or some type of textured surface. Dull-Cote, or just paint them flat black.

Obviously these are freight car trucks, but they were all painted flat black or brown to start. Most of it is powder after that, or a combo of oil paint stippled on, followed by powder, after the oil paint is completely dry.

I don't think you want your locomotive trucks to have that much texture but you get the idea.

It always helps to have a photo of what your are trying to duplicate. So find a photo of an RS11 similar to what your are going for. Then just try to match the colors and patterns.

Great weathering jobs guys!

Alan

Really don't like painting

Well got my trucks all weathered with rust and browns and some light grey, gave it a coat of dull cote and all the color disappeared  their just flat black now

Clem k

Hello Clem

     I was afraid that would happen. Chalks need a dull surface to cling. Unfortunately they have no adhesive and can be blown off by the dullcoat. You could try over doing the color needed and letting the dullcoat almost fall on the trucks. The other option is to use "powders" like Bragdons which have adhesive included. The rubbing activates the adhesive. Don't give up with what you have, it will work with some experimentation. The colors here are a little off in the picture but you can see how the texture builds up.

Ray Marion

You need to spray dullcote BEFORE powder as well as after.  Even still, the spray can will blow some of the powder off.  It's ok, you can always add more.

Also, when I want to "weather" trucks the quick and dirty way, I just brush on craft acrylic "raw umbre" paint.  It looks like rust/grease. 

I did use dull cote first on one of them and flat black on another. I narrowed the side frames so they where closer to the wheels. Heck by the time I'm done it will just as wide as  before.   

Clem

You have to put the chalk/powder on a little heavier than you want it to look. When you spray the dull-cote at the end..... YOU DONT NEED MUCH.... a very little is all it takes. If you are using the spray can, hold it a long ways a way from the truck. You just want a very fine mist.....or it makes all the weathering disappear.

I use the bottle of dull-cote thinned 50/50 with laquer thinner and spray it with my airbrush at about 10 psi. Just a little.....is all you need.  

You can also brush on some chalk/powder while the dull cote is still wet. Especially with light colors like grey or white. In the 1st truck picture I posted, that light grey on the sides of the truck were brushed on while the dull cote was wet. Spray, brush, spray, brush until you get the effect you want. Takes practice and patience..... and I'm the last person on the planet to preach patience

One more note. I have found that Testors Model Master Dullcote is the clearest when done. Others have a tendency to muddle the colors.

Ray Marion

For weathering wheelsets I brush paint the wheel flange and wheel tread Tamiya Gun Metal X-10, the wheel plate facing outside of gage(wheel bearing or brass journal side) for solid(brass) journals Pollyscale oily black and roller bearing rust, back of wheels facing track gage rust, for rust paint I use Delta Ceramcoat Raw Sienna 02411, axles are also painted rust. Truck sides are painted with Delta Ceramcoat Black 02506 and truck springs rust using Raw Sienna 02411. Black 02506 and  Raw Sienna 02411 is flat finish acrylic available at Hobby Lobby and inexpensive, Tamiya Gun Metal X-10 has gloss finish available from hobby shop.

I also brush paint the coupler body and knuckle the rust color 02411.

Ah, yes!  I forgot about the wheelsets.  I also brush paint them, first with a rust-colored paint (PRR Tuscan actually), and then a quick dry brush with oily black.  I do this with the train on the track and moving in slow-mo. I dry brush the springs with the Tuscan sometimes, too.  I also only use Testors Dullcoat, before the PanPastel powders.

Clem, I've had great success with the bragdon powders. You can just build up the colors or weathering a little bit at a time. It gives one fewer surprises. The little makeup brushes one can buy at the drug store work well as applicators.

I don't use any fixative, but I don't handle the cars much. This K line Hudson was weathered with the powders

Laid off Sick gave you great advice on looking to prototype photos for your weathering plan.

If your modeling a period during the hey day of railroading the prototype trucks may not be too weathered.  Diesels acquire a lot of yard or road dust, dirt and natural sun bleaching or fading.

I use a brush and dull the trucks out. After which I then add little minute details, like rust and worn paint etc. I learned those tricks when, I built and painted German Panzer tanks. Really cool when the trucks are grimy like their real cousins.

Pete