Weaver 2-8-0

Cruise and super-chuffer can be added. I have a Weaver Brass M1a Mountain which I had converted by Alex Mallie. It runs super smooth. Go for the upgrades

L.I.TRAIN posted:

Cruise and super-chuffer can be added. I have a Weaver Brass M1a Mountain which I had converted by Alex Mallie. It runs super smooth. Go for the upgrades

 

Cool! I'll get on that at some point. I'm unsure if my model comes with instructions (the listing didn't say if it did or not) so I'll need to know at the very least how to get the boiler open. Anyone have instructions they can email me? 

It depends on the locomotive.  Weaver brass typically used the Seuthe smoke unit.  Of course, knowing exactly what you currently have would be useful.  You're asking about things like how to remove the boiler shell, but we don't know if this is Weaver Brass or diecast.

If you have the Weaver model with the TAS (Train America Studios) electronics, adding cruise is a significant undertaking as you'll have to replace the existing electronics.  If you have one with the Lionel electronics, then you can fairly simply add the ERR Cruise Commander M to give yourself cruise.

Why not grab the shots and description from the eBay listing and post them so we can see what you got?  Failing that, how about just posting the eBay auction number (note direct links to eBay are not permitted here).

Matt,

The Weaver H10 is a good running engine.  I bought mine used and it had PS2 installed, but it wasn't running that great.  I had Alex install ERR, RS4, and turbo smoke and it ran much better, very smooth.  Besides the H10, Alex also upgraded two Weaver K4s for me.  Both also run great.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

It depends on the locomotive.  Weaver brass typically used the Seuthe smoke unit.  Of course, knowing exactly what you currently have would be useful.  You're asking about things like how to remove the boiler shell, but we don't know if this is Weaver Brass or diecast.

If you have the Weaver model with the TAS (Train America Studios) electronics, adding cruise is a significant undertaking as you'll have to replace the existing electronics.  If you have one with the Lionel electronics, then you can fairly simply add the ERR Cruise Commander M to give yourself cruise.

Why not grab the shots and description from the eBay listing and post them so we can see what you got?  Failing that, how about just posting the eBay auction number (note direct links to eBay are not permitted here).

My bad. I should've been more specific heres a couple of screenshots. 

CAPPilot posted:

Matt,

The Weaver H10 is a good running engine.  I bought mine used and it had PS2 installed, but it wasn't running that great.  I had Alex install ERR, RS4, and turbo smoke and it ran much better, very smooth.  Besides the H10, Alex also upgraded two Weaver K4s for me.  Both also run great.

Cool! I'd like to get a different road name and have PS3 put in it eventually. Of course though, maybe i should just leave it as is. Maybe one day. 

I'm guessing this is eBay: 333475288235 that just sold on eBay, right?  This is the diecast model, there should be three or four screws holding the boiler shell on. See arrows.  Either one screw in the center under the front pilot truck, or two screws next to the cylinders.

All the electronic "guts" are in the tender, so in order to answer questions about stuff like cruise, we need a picture of the electronics package.  It has four screws holding the shell on, and don't lose the plastic washers under them, they're necessary to insulate the shell as it's the TMCC antenna.

I need to add that all my Weaver engines are brass.  I did not know Weaver did die cast.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I'm guessing this is eBay: 333475288235 that just sold on eBay, right?  This is the diecast model, there should be three or four screws holding the boiler shell on. See arrows.  Either one screw in the center under the front pilot truck, or two screws next to the cylinders.

All the electronic "guts" are in the tender, so in order to answer questions about stuff like cruise, we need a picture of the electronics package.  It has four screws holding the shell on, and don't lose the plastic washers under them, they're necessary to insulate the shell as it's the TMCC antenna.

Yes that's it. I wasn't sure how to get the Ebay item number. When I get the model I'll open it up and take some pics of the electronics. I'll have to throw a YLB in it too. 

It does have TMCC for sure. Given the description it may very well be Lionel modular vs TAS. Easy to add cruise. Not too hard to add fan smoke either given its diecast. If was brass you would have to give up the lead weight and greatly reduce tractive effort.

Pete

Actually, I've never given up the lead weight to add fan driven smoke to a brass engine.  The lead weight is a necessary piece of the puzzle, removing that and the locomotive would probably have trouble pulling more than it's tender!

I have shaved the weight in a couple to fit the smoke unit in, but I only had to take a couple of ounces off.

As for Lionel or TAS electronics, some of the Weaver stuff came with each system, that's why I wanted to see some pictures of the boards in the tender.  I just opened up one of their brass models and discovered the factory TAS installation... oops!  I was going to install cruise in it, but that idea went out the window.

I have this engine.  It is TAS EOB, and a fan driven smoke unit.  The Engine is die cast and there is a touchy 10-pin tether that sometimes comes loose.

There were two 2-8-0 offerings from Weaver.   One was a Pennsy Brass H10.  The other was diecast, part of the K-line bankruptcy, were Weaver accepted delivery and did paint work and marketing.   There may have been others.  

Pennsy H10 Brass (Samhongsa, Korea)  

Diecast 2-8-0  

The one in the eBay picture is definitely the Diecast version.

I suspect maybe the K-Line cast-off could have Lionel hardware, that would be good.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I suspect maybe the K-Line cast-off could have Lionel hardware, that would be good.

Assuming it is the diecast version which the picture shows, the boards are TAS EOBs, which I really don't like due to the cruise curve.  At some point, I will probably update mine to ERR Cruise Commander with your Smoke Generator so I get a better running engine.  I may also change out the sound board as I don't like the whistle.  

Yep, the behavior of the EOB cruise doesn't do it for me either.

Pictured 2-8-0 did not have speed control from Weaver.  Speed control may have been added.    

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Yep, the behavior of the EOB cruise doesn't do it for me either.

Unless you want to see how quick your engine can go from zero to 60 smh, it is not that bad Does a good job of simulating starting a very heavy train.

CAPPilot posted:

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Yep, the behavior of the EOB cruise doesn't do it for me either.

Unless you want to see how quick your engine can go from zero to 60 smh, it is not that bad Does a good job of simulating starting a very heavy train.

On my Atlas 0-6-0, it has EOB and when it gets moving it runs great but takes forever to get moving, even on low momentum. 

Mike CT posted:

Pictured 2-8-0 did not have speed control from Weaver.  Speed control may have been added.    

Mike,

If it TMCC, they all came with Train America Studios (TAS) Engineer on Board (EOB) which is TMCC with a reader that counts black striped tape (like John's chuff generator) so it does have cruise control.  The EOB also has an acceleration curve which is annoying (which is what John and I were talking about).  The curve means that when you turn the remote speed to 30, the engine will slowly go up to that speed, speeding up the acceleration as it goes. That means you can't MU it to another engine unless you turn off the cruise control. It also has TAS Smoke Machine in it. I've opened mine and I know this to be true. If your engine has a 10 pin tether, it is the same. 

As far as I know, Weaver only made one batch of this engine, all with the EOB board.

I have the exact locomotive but the road name is Western Maryland ...it’s a beautiful engine ! The thing runs great in conventional but is just horrible in TMCC mode...very erratic performance ...it will make a couple of circles around the layout and just stop dead then you have to get it going again just for it stop 3 feet later.

I have only ever owned 2 weaver locomotives with TMCC and they both ran like crap the other was a Baldwin VO100.

Good luck with yours ! 

C&O Allie posted:

Mike CT posted:

Pictured 2-8-0 did not have speed control from Weaver.  Speed control may have been added.    

Mike,

If it TMCC, they all came with Train America Studios (TAS) Engineer on Board (EOB) which is TMCC with a reader that counts black striped tape (like John's chuff generator) so it does have cruise control.  The EOB also has an acceleration curve which is annoying (which is what John and I were talking about).  The curve means that when you turn the remote speed to 30, the engine will slowly go up to that speed, speeding up the acceleration as it goes. That means you can't MU it to another engine unless you turn off the cruise control. It also has TAS Smoke Machine in it. I've opened mine and I know this to be true. If your engine has a 10 pin tether, it is the same. 

As far as I know, Weaver only made one batch of this engine, all with the EOB board.

So mine does have cruise and TAS smoke? 

EOB can be tuned up so the engine runs smooth. The accelleration curve is still annoying.

Download the EOB installation manual from the document sticky thread on the TMCC forum and try playing with the settings. To replace all the electronics with ERR can cost nearly as much as these engines are worth.

Pete

Trainlover9943 posted:

C&O Allie posted:

Mike CT posted:

Pictured 2-8-0 did not have speed control from Weaver.  Speed control may have been added.    

Mike,

If it TMCC, they all came with Train America Studios (TAS) Engineer on Board (EOB) which is TMCC with a reader that counts black striped tape (like John's chuff generator) so it does have cruise control.  The EOB also has an acceleration curve which is annoying (which is what John and I were talking about).  The curve means that when you turn the remote speed to 30, the engine will slowly go up to that speed, speeding up the acceleration as it goes. That means you can't MU it to another engine unless you turn off the cruise control. It also has TAS Smoke Machine in it. I've opened mine and I know this to be true. If your engine has a 10 pin tether, it is the same. 

As far as I know, Weaver only made one batch of this engine, all with the EOB board.

So mine does have cruise and TAS smoke? 

Most likely.  The instructions will tell you for sure. If it doesn't come with one, let me know and I can make a copy for you. 

C&O Allie posted:

Trainlover9943 posted:

C&O Allie posted:

Mike CT posted:

Pictured 2-8-0 did not have speed control from Weaver.  Speed control may have been added.    

Mike,

If it TMCC, they all came with Train America Studios (TAS) Engineer on Board (EOB) which is TMCC with a reader that counts black striped tape (like John's chuff generator) so it does have cruise control.  The EOB also has an acceleration curve which is annoying (which is what John and I were talking about).  The curve means that when you turn the remote speed to 30, the engine will slowly go up to that speed, speeding up the acceleration as it goes. That means you can't MU it to another engine unless you turn off the cruise control. It also has TAS Smoke Machine in it. I've opened mine and I know this to be true. If your engine has a 10 pin tether, it is the same. 

As far as I know, Weaver only made one batch of this engine, all with the EOB board.

So mine does have cruise and TAS smoke? 

Most likely.  The instructions will tell you for sure. If it doesn't come with one, let me know and I can make a copy for you. 

Cool. When I get the model, I'll post pics and a video of it running. If I need instructions, I'll cross that bridge when I get there. 

taycotrains posted:

I have the exact locomotive but the road name is Western Maryland ...it’s a beautiful engine ! The thing runs great in conventional but is just horrible in TMCC mode...very erratic performance ...it will make a couple of circles around the layout and just stop dead then you have to get it going again just for it stop 3 feet later.

I have only ever owned 2 weaver locomotives with TMCC and they both ran like crap the other was a Baldwin VO100.

Good luck with yours ! 

 

Bob,

It sounds like you are like me with my 3 EOB engines. Time to change them to the cruise commander which I will eventually do. 🙂

Got a chance to run the model today. Runs good and smokes good too. The tether on it is touchy on it, has to pressed in all the way to work. Kinda annoying. My Atlas 0-6-0 is the same way. I also don't think this has speed control, doesn't mention speed control in the manual. 

After attempting to run this engine for awhile. Had I known the tether would be this touchy, I wouldn't have purchased this engine. I can barely get the engine to do a lap without it stopping or shutting down completely due to the tether. 

I have two of these engines and have had no problems with the tethers, although they haven't been run much. The problem should be fixable.

MELGAR

I wonder if adding pickups to the tender would help or does that have nothing to do with it? 

Trainlover9943 posted:

After attempting to run this engine for awhile. Had I known the tether would be this touchy, I wouldn't have purchased this engine. I can barely get the engine to do a lap without it stopping or shutting down completely due to the tether. 

The tether is so small, it is hard to get in. Use your finger nail or a small screwdriver to make sure it is in all the way. I find if I don't do that, it doesn't go in all the way. If that doesn't work, you may need to change the tether. 3rd Rail / Electric RR has a $10 tether that is better, but a little bigger, so modifications would be needed. 

C&O Allie posted:

Trainlover9943 posted:

After attempting to run this engine for awhile. Had I known the tether would be this touchy, I wouldn't have purchased this engine. I can barely get the engine to do a lap without it stopping or shutting down completely due to the tether. 

The tether is so small, it is hard to get in. Use your finger nail or a small screwdriver to make sure it is in all the way. I find if I don't do that, it doesn't go in all the way. If that doesn't work, you may need to change the tether. 3rd Rail / Electric RR has a $10 tether that is better, but a little bigger, so modifications would be needed. 

I pressed it in as far as I could. I'll press it in a little more with a small screwdriver and see if that helps. How much bigger is the ERR tether? 

I grab the cord a very short ways from the plug and use that to seat the plug.

You could press the tether in with a non-metallic tool, maybe like a cuticle pusher for manicures or whatever it is called. Almost any woman you know would have one or know where to get one.

When seating the plug, it would also be good to spread the force (multiple push points) or use as wide of a tool as will fit so as not to damage the plug, or get it started crooked.

RoyBoy posted:

I grab the cord a very short ways from the plug and use that to seat the plug. 

That's how I did it when I put in it. 

The Weaver diecast 2-8-0 locos came either with the SAW board or the EOB board. I have picked up three of these diecast connies  for as little as $100 on eBay knowing they had some sort of problem. For some reason these things suffer from all sorts of little maladies. The Pilot deck is potmetal less than 1/16" thick they snap off quite easily. Of the three I have one has the pilot deck broke off the other two were bent down enough that the pilots rubbed the rails and sparked continuously. The pilot deck is easy enough to remove and heat on a small sheet of metal till it returns to flat. If you feel lucky cold bend it back but as thin as it is you risk it snapping and then the repair is much more difficult. I know the trick of clamping between wood and tightening the clamp slowly.  It is to slow and is no guarantee you won't break it after a week of tightening slowly.  I heat them from the bottom and have not needed to repaint one so far.   One of mine has a loose rear drive wheel. I will have to make a brass insert to press in before that driver can be re-quartered.  One concern is that I may have to re-quarter all four axles.  A model loco can run quite well with drivers which are not quartered a perfect 90 degrees as long as all axles are out the same amount.   I made my quartering jig and it is not easily adjustable so after I quarter the first one if the drive binds it is easier to re-quarter the other three axles than any other solution. As for the tether which will not stay plugged in there are a few solutions one is to cut the heat shrink off the tether and tie the bundle with heavy black thread about every half inch. Then paint it black. This makes it much more flexible.  The other part of the cure is to make a hook that is secured by one screw on one side of the plug and left free to rotate. Plug in the tether and then flip the hook over it now it cannot pull out in the curves. The best cure is to order a tether and plug from MTH but it is much more work.  If you like to tinker this loco should keep you smiling for years. They are very attractive well detailed little locos and suited to small layouts with sharp curves. They run well when running but are a bit of trouble to keep on your available motive power roster.         j

Trainlover9943 posted:

C&O Allie posted:

Trainlover9943 posted:

After attempting to run this engine for awhile. Had I known the tether would be this touchy, I wouldn't have purchased this engine. I can barely get the engine to do a lap without it stopping or shutting down completely due to the tether. 

The tether is so small, it is hard to get in. Use your finger nail or a small screwdriver to make sure it is in all the way. I find if I don't do that, it doesn't go in all the way. If that doesn't work, you may need to change the tether. 3rd Rail / Electric RR has a $10 tether that is better, but a little bigger, so modifications would be needed. 

I pressed it in as far as I could. I'll press it in a little more with a small screwdriver and see if that helps. How much bigger is the ERR tether? 

Here is a picture of the ERR 10 pin tether.

JohnActon posted:

The Weaver diecast 2-8-0 locos came either with the SAW board or the EOB board. 

I'll have to open mine up and see what it came with and go from there. I'll see if I can fix the tether I have with the thread idea. If not I'll order a MTH or ERR tether. 

Matt if it is EOB Cruise it will have a switch on the bottom of the tender which says cruise on / off.  Another trick, I use  long skinny needle nose pliers to hold the wires of the tether against the plug in order to insert the plug. Us as little pressure on the pliers as possible. Don't crush the bundle of wires, light pressure with pliers resting against the plug.  That tether is stiff and just long enough with no slack and the needle nose pliers really help get the plug fully seated into the female plug.          j