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This has the drive shaft w/ two U joints coming out of the center box. This is a shelf queen, that has never had power applied until a few days ago. It powers up and hums in F or R, silent in N. Some minute shudders, but no movement. From mid 90s, I think. Fixed pilots. Have lubed what I can see from the undercarriage, but haven’t popped off the shell. A little leery without any previous looks at the innards of a Weaver. Thanks for any ideas. The C clip is what keeps the plunger of the coupler from falling out.

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Last edited by Mark V. Spadaro
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This has the single tower drive. You may have a cracked gear in one or both of the trucks that is binding the drive. Very common failure. Weaver used to offer replacements but I believe P&D has them now. I don’t recall removing the shell was too bad. The motor is a current hog and easily overheats the E unit. I rarely run mine.



Pete

This is a good model of an RS3.   The single motor drive places the whole unit low on the rails so it looks more realistic than the later dual motor drives where the whole thing sits too high does not look right compared to photos.     The hand rails are made of engineering plastic, delrin is one of the name brands, They are plenty sturdy enough for normal handling of models.    This is not a kids toy, but is not super fragile either.    If want even stronger stuff, by brass castings from P&D or some other shop for the handrail stantions and replace the railings with wire.

All that said a lot of early units had failed components in the drive train.    I was told by an plastics engineer that the supplier was probably running the molds for the gears too cold and they were melting together when poured, and hence cracked.    I have many of these, after the first failures, they have generally been very reliable.

Now it sounds like your problem might be the top sprocket on the motor shaft that is cracked.     The drive consists of a top sprocket on the motor connecting to a lower sprocket/shaft via a chain.     The lower shaft than connects to each truck via sliding universal joints.     Each axle is powered with a worm gear from the shaft onto the axle gear.     All the components are easy to replace if they break.    It is a great design to be self-maintained.

There could be other problems, but I would start with that one because you described the hum, which implies the motor is turning but not the mech.    If it were axle gears, the unit would run, but be jerky.

To take it apart, there are six screws on the chassis underneath.     There are 2 on each end, and 2 hidden above the fuel tank.     The tank sort of snaps onto the frame.   One end has small tabs facing out from the center.    You gently squeeze at that end and lift the tank away, and then slikde the other end out slots facing toward the end.    Then you can see the bottom of the "gear" tower.

Also before you lift the shell off, gently remove the hand rails from the little holes in cab.   

ONce the hood/cab is off you can test run it again and  you can tell if the motor is moving, but not the sprocket.

As mentioned above P&D Hobbies has replacement parts for nearly everything in this drive.    They have had new runs of the various gears and sprockets made.     They also have new axles with gears if needed.     It is very hard to pull the wheels on the 3 rail axles to replace gears.     There are 2 lower sprockets, a "small" one and a "large" one.    The large one is usually used in 3 rail units to get the desired higher speeds.

A word of caution, the body mount screws are metal on plastic.     Remove and install them by gentle hand work, don't use power tools.   If you use a powered driver, you will most likely tear up the threads in the plastic pars.

Thank you all for your replies, and thank you prrjim for a very informative post. One thing I have noted is that it will not derail when pushed thru the curves on O36 fastrack, so I’m guessing it was rated for O42, because at the time of production, there was nothing in between O31 and O42.

Last edited by Mark V. Spadaro

Pat Mucci owned and ran the shop.   He died in early January after a long battle with cancer.     His son Jim is going to try to run the business - he is a business man, not a train guy.    But he is the one who may know if they still do repairs.    There was a guy named Jerry Taipalus who used to do repairs for them and I think may be helping Jim Mucci one a day week on figuring out what is in inventory.

The wheel sets are interchangeable between 2 and 3 rail. Order the parts you need to replace the broken ones. You should be able to reuse the original wheel sets. I'd pull the shell and apply power to see what is not moving but should be moving. Then inspect the remainder of the drivetrain for anything else that is broken. That way you need to order only once.



Chris

LVHR

@Strummer posted:

Apparently... looking back through some of the topics about this model, it seems that this pre-dated the chain drive...(?)

Mark in Oregon

PS: happy 4th! 🙂

Hmmm.......I thought the 1st Weaver drive was the center tower chain drive and then the end tower chain drive supplanted that system.  Gear drives are what I think of when it's a CLW or AN drive.  Wonder if someone swapped out drives....

Indeed - a safe and happy 4th!

Yes, Weaver DID have a gear drive! Very early, and it does pre-date the chain drive. I had one. The good news is they use the exact same tower. BTDT. I highly recommend going to the chain drive, if you can acquire all the parts. My source was P&D Hobby. However, the owner has died and the son is having difficulty getting things restocked.

At this point, if you cannot find a tower, I think there are only 2 practical alternatives: 3D print one, or create a resin casting. You can probably glue the existing parts back together and have them hold long enough to make a mold or get dimensions for printing. The towers are made of Derlin, an engineering plastic. So any glue attempt will likely result in the joint breaking sooner than later. Don't plan on any service life from the glued parts.

I think one of the reasons the towers break in the first place is the holes are too small for the axles. I think Weaver did this on purpose to keep the parts together w/o clips on the back side. I'd consider enlarginging the holes and adding retaining clips if possible.



Chris

LVHR

Last edited by lehighline

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