Weaver U25b PS1 board questions

About the same spot the DCRU is in.  Need to get speaker in fuel tank if possible.   Heat sink for square rectifier mount same, but you may need to drill holes for the brass mount attached to the regulator at the other end.  G

Where is the DCRU, and what does it look like?  This is the first time I've tried something like this.

Oh wait, after some research, it turns out the DCRU is the whole reverse unit board.  Whoops, my mistake.  So where do the motor and power leads attach?

Can you get a pic of the bottom  of the new  dcru ? Orange (center rail ) and brown (outside rail)wires   were at one time QSI colours. However you may have a little more than that  to worry about . There's probably a voltage regulator that must be insulated from  the chassis. It's also   part of the mounting bracket on some engines.

DCRU = DC current Reverse Unit. That is the bottom board. A full-wave bridge rectifier sends DC current to can motor(s).

QSIndustries began with ACRU's for Lionel postwar locomotives. Early instructions explained how to cut a trace underneath and add a full-wave bridge rectifier for locomotives with DC can motors that were just coming out.

If your PS-1 board has 2 pin connectors on the bottom, Red is AC center rail, Black is Outer ground, White and Yellow are motor leads.  If no connectors look a the board closely and you will see AC, ACG, M1 and M2, they tell you what goes where.  G

Also, maybe I am missing it, but do not see a volume control pot in the picture.

Ron

PRRronbh posted:

Also, maybe I am missing it, but do not see a volume control pot in the picture.

Ron

There's no audio components in those pictures, thus no volume control.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

PRRronbh posted:

Also, maybe I am missing it, but do not see a volume control pot in the picture.

Ron

There's no audio components in those pictures, thus no volume control.

Is a speaker an "audio component"?!

There sure is one pictured with the Proto Sound boards!

Ron

Come on John!  Look at the 3 wire plug with wires going to the bracket under the board.  Many PS-1 models had the volume pot as an integral part of the brass bracket.   Looks like he has it all including the coupler selection switch.  G

OOPS, I was looking at his "old" picture, sorry guys.

OK.  I figured out where the power goes to, now I need to figure out where to attach the motors and lights.  This engine does not have firing couplers.

Paul Moore posted:

OK.  I figured out where the power goes to, now I need to figure out where to attach the motors and lights.  This engine does not have firing couplers.

But Proto Sound does support remote firing proto sound couplers if you find the correct ones.

Ron

Protosound 1 or Lionel couplers will work, however PS/2 or PS/3 couplers will not work.

The motor leads are where I told you, next to the AC inputs towards the outside of the board.  (AC inputs in the center).  The 2 white connectors at the rear of the board by the black heatsink are directional lights.  One fwd and one reverse.  THEY SUPPORT 1.5V Bulbs only though.  G

Thanks guys!

Nice to see someone just get it done - work through it, scratch your head, ask questions. Now, just think how easy the next project like this will be...uh-oh!

BTW, as often as not, I will use double-sided tape to attach electronic components, depending on everything; it's legit.