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Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

The home brew STD Gauge Royal Hudson I bought last year was not runnable due to extremely swollen and warped drivers. Got some made up by Hennings and now the challenge of figuring out how to get it apart and what is some of the stuff inside. Fun stuff, but it will finally be running soon. No clue yet what the Christmas bulb in there is for.

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I would think it has to be for some firebox glow.

George

George S posted:
Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

The home brew STD Gauge Royal Hudson I bought last year was not runnable due to extremely swollen and warped drivers. Got some made up by Hennings and now the challenge of figuring out how to get it apart and what is some of the stuff inside. Fun stuff, but it will finally be running soon. No clue yet what the Christmas bulb in there is for.

BB8D4536-00D9-4669-B7F4-31C2D70FECA12B538892-D55F-4E5A-8981-8C9B5B3F1577

I would think it has to be for some firebox glow.

George

In the middle of the boiler? That also looks like a clear bulb which makes even less sense?  weird.

Hey Tinplate fans,

Im in the beginning stages of planning a layout and wanted opinions and resources about track.

USA or MTH?

Are extra ties for structure or cosmetic value? 

Easy to use engineering software available? Apple compatible would be preferred.

errors to avoid/lessons learned would be appreciated too.

*if this topic needs a separate thread let me know.

Mark

 

Mark Gannucci posted:

Hey Tinplate fans,

Im in the beginning stages of planning a layout and wanted opinions and resources about track.

USA or MTH?

Are extra ties for structure or cosmetic value? 

Easy to use engineering software available? Apple compatible would be preferred.

errors to avoid/lessons learned would be appreciated too.

*if this topic needs a separate thread let me know.

Mark

 

Mark

Is this going to be Std Gauge or O?

Steve

Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

The home brew STD Gauge Royal Hudson I bought last year was not runnable due to extremely swollen and warped drivers. Got some made up by Hennings and now the challenge of figuring out how to get it apart and what is some of the stuff inside. Fun stuff, but it will finally be running soon. No clue yet what the Christmas bulb in there is for.

2B538892-D55F-4E5A-8981-8C9B5B3F1577

To add some resistance to keep the train from running too fast.

George S posted:

For Lionel eyelets I have successfully reused the eyelet. I crimp / straighten the non-curled end of the eyelet with needle nose pliers until I can remove it. I have a large bolt set in a vice to hold the eyelet in place when resetting it. I then tap a couple of philips screwdrivers down to furl the end, starting with a small screwdriver and progressing to a larger one, turning the screwdriver between taps. The method is effective, but does not look original. I'm not sure if this works on American Flyer. 

You can buy replacement eyelets for Lionel, and there are setting tools available for trains, but the tools are expensive. 

George

I have gotten both eyelets and rivets  matching the originals and set them few different sized punches. I need to make a few more 

rtraincollector posted:
terry hudon posted:

the 259e needed wheel,then found out need the rest of them ace,of ace trains ,had some red ones,,,why not,,I think it looks a lot better IMGP2186

One of my 259's has red wheels, all eight of them. 

IMG_5216

Not the best picture as that is about 9' up. I live in a old house with 10' ceilings

 

looks even better,i'm going to have to get busy,thanks terry

handyandy posted:
Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

The home brew STD Gauge Royal Hudson I bought last year was not runnable due to extremely swollen and warped drivers. Got some made up by Hennings and now the challenge of figuring out how to get it apart and what is some of the stuff inside. Fun stuff, but it will finally be running soon. No clue yet what the Christmas bulb in there is for.

2B538892-D55F-4E5A-8981-8C9B5B3F1577

To add some resistance to keep the train from running too fast.

Not far off Andy now that I’ve checked it out. There are 4 lights on the string. One for the crest on the boiler front and two marker lights. The fourth was needed for resistance, otherwise they were too bright. It just flops around in the boiler.

Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:
handyandy posted:
Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

The home brew STD Gauge Royal Hudson I bought last year was not runnable due to extremely swollen and warped drivers. Got some made up by Hennings and now the challenge of figuring out how to get it apart and what is some of the stuff inside. Fun stuff, but it will finally be running soon. No clue yet what the Christmas bulb in there is for.

2B538892-D55F-4E5A-8981-8C9B5B3F1577

To add some resistance to keep the train from running too fast.

Not far off Andy now that I’ve checked it out. There are 4 lights on the string. One for the crest on the boiler front and two marker lights. The fourth was needed for resistance, otherwise they were too bright. It just flops around in the boiler.

Awesome. My grandpa was an electrician from way back and did all kinds of stuff in his basement shop. He had this series of light bulb sockets in his test power feed so he could add resistance, one bulb at a time.

Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:
handyandy posted:
Steve "Papa" Eastman posted:

The home brew STD Gauge Royal Hudson I bought last year was not runnable due to extremely swollen and warped drivers. Got some made up by Hennings and now the challenge of figuring out how to get it apart and what is some of the stuff inside. Fun stuff, but it will finally be running soon. No clue yet what the Christmas bulb in there is for.

2B538892-D55F-4E5A-8981-8C9B5B3F1577

To add some resistance to keep the train from running too fast.

Not far off Andy now that I’ve checked it out. There are 4 lights on the string. One for the crest on the boiler front and two marker lights. The fourth was needed for resistance, otherwise they were too bright. It just flops around in the boiler.

Here is what the lights do. Two marker lights and the number board. The number board does not light up well, but at least they are all working. The headlight is a separate bulb. 

 

CD6C0FA0-9841-4F88-8989-204868EE4CA0

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