What can I use to pull off wheels from a motor

I have a Lionel puller, but it is frequently difficult to use because of tight clearances. Most of the time I take wheels off using a punch of the appropriate size and a moderate hammer. Otherwise look for a Lionel puller, I think it is the ST-311.  Most other pullers do not fit between the wheel and the frame without modification. Some people are successful using a pair of wedges, like a pair of screw drivers of the appropriate size. If it is a fragel wheel, maybe with open spokes, the punch method works well as it puts little load on the spokes.  If you can, remove the wheel without the gear and just slide the other wheel and axle out without disturbing them. When you put the wheels back on, quartering will be important if it is locomotive with side rods. Wheel cups are the best way to do this,  but you can scribe a line across the hub and end of the axle to help getting back in the same place. If you are going to put new or different wheels back on, watch the interference fit. I have found an interference between 0.0015" and 0.002" works well without requiring so much force it risks damaging the wheel or bending the axle. These days you do not have to live in fear of a loose wheel, like in the past. Locktite producers are readily available if an inadequate interference develops. 

Most of the time I take wheels off using a punch of the appropriate size and a moderate hammer.

There can be a problem using a punch and hammer unless you find something to back up the wheel.
On some motors the axle bearing winds up being what backs up the wheel, so when you use a punch, you push the bearing in too far. Then the wheel will rub on the chassis unless you reset the bearing.

I always use a Lionel wheel puller. While Lionel recommended pulling the non-geared wheel, sometimes it is necessary to pull the geared one due to clearance.
I use the last wheel puller modern era Lionel offered, as I think it is the best version. The jaws are thin and wide, so they are strong and able to fit under most wheels. Mine is modified by having some of the width ground away for clearance.
One time I did go too far, and remove too much material, resulting in weak jaws that broke.

I have the Timko Wheel Puller, here's Marty's Pictures of the unit.  It's a very robust wheel and flywheel puller, works great.  It also has two size pushers for motor axles and truck axles.

Looks simple enough to make.

wild mary posted:

Looks simple enough to make.

Probably, but I have better uses for the time it would take.

I seem to recollect someone using a faucet handle puller to pull drivers from axles.

Fred

 Thanks for the souce John. I had been looking for a new one to replace a lost gear puller.

Pullers for faucets work sometimes....barely.

You can make one, but will it be and pull true? (square, plumb). Some are just plain too cheap and bend before pulling.

  A battery terminal puller might work. So might a chain tool, or small gear puller (there are many worthy pullers in the machinists catalogs). Pro- HVAC & plumbing supply shops are a good source for an assorrment too.

It's all about how well it grabs the wheel; and usually jaw thicknesses and angles hold you back; so look to high grades on gear pullers.

  A C-brace type puller that supports under the wheel/geat is the best if you have room to use it. Any flaws in metallurgy and the wheel stands a better chance of survival than if using a jaw puller that only grabs flanges. (I have three chipped drivers on Marx, 1 Lionel right now) The downside is you can't always fit the C-brace where you need it.

     Thats where one like Timco's is nice. It's sort of an in-between. Wide, thin, catch shelves on hard steel bolts. Looks like a winner.

I seem to recollect someone using a faucet handle puller to pull drivers from axles.

There are dealers on EBay who sell faucet handle pullers as standard gauge wheel pullers.
They are much less expensive at your local home center.
So far, I've only used mine to remove stuck faucet handles. They work great!

  A battery terminal puller might work.

Lionel's first wheel puller, the ST-301 looks very much like a modified battery terminal puller.

There are all sorts of battery terminal pullers on the market. If someone wanted to convert one, I'd suggest getting a better one that isn't sloppy. (See photos below)
Then you'd have to drill a hole in the center of the ram for a pin to push out the axle.
Next you'd have to evenly grind down the ends of the jaws so they would fit under the wheel.
But don't go too thin, which would result in weak jaws.

It is common to find the ST-301 puller with broken jaws.
Same goes for the postwar puller  ST-311 and the early modern era ones.

I think it was the late 1980's when modern era Lionel came out with a redesigned puller. They made the jaw s much stronger by thickening the tips considerably. Only one problem, the thick jaws would not fit under many wheels.
The puller was revised once again around 1992. The jaws were thinned back out and made wider.
All of these redesigned pullers continued to be marked ST-311.
While marked ST-311, the last one was cataloged as ST-312.
Instead of being marked "LIONEL", they are marked "LICNEL"  (A "C" replaces the "O")

If you want an authentic Lionel Service Station wheel puller, be aware that the various versions of the ST-311 are commonly misidentified on EBay. I've lost count of the number of times I've seen them identified as Postwar, when they were not.

If I needed a wheel puller, I'd buy one from Timko.

First picture: old style battery terminal lifter, which is similar to Lionel ST-301

Second picture: Modern better quality battery terminal lifter, might be good for a conversion.

I've used a battery puller with some success: 

https://ogrforum.com/...ring-a-bowser-birney

Mitch 

I also use the Timko puller 

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I have the Timko Wheel Puller, here's Marty's Pictures of the unit.  It's a very robust wheel and flywheel puller, works great.  It also has two size pushers for motor axles and truck axles.

that seems like it would work for me where can i buy that 

Applying a drop of P.B. Blaster to whatever your attempting to pull, really helps break it loose. It only comes in a spray can so I spray it into an empty MTH oil bottle so that I can apply only a single drop to the axle shaft. Then let it sit for a few minutes before pulling.

Portlines sells the wheel puller shown above.

Larry

Hmm...  Portlines claims to make these themselves, yet they look a LOT like the Timko wheel puller.

I am wondering about those bolts on the Timko and Port Lines pullers with the "custom" ends.
I had assumed they were custom made for the puller, but I am fairly certain I came across them on the web while looking for something else. But I cannot recall the site, or what the intended purpose was.

Gunrunner and others use the same one I use.  I got my puller from Frank Timko.   Parts are available and I see no reason why you would ever need them.  A great tool to do the job the right way.

Has anyone ever purchase or used the $349.00 one on the Portlines website? Beautiful self centering puller, but at that price, you can buy 7 of the Timko. Wish they could find a way to have them produced for less, at least in the $150.00 price range. That would make them much more attractive. If they found a machine shop with the new high tech CNC equipment, I know they could spit them out much much cheaper.  

Parts are available and I see no reason why you would ever need them.

I am not looking for parts. I am just curious about the origin of the bolts.

The right tool is the tool to use for the job.    As for the origin of the bolts, I am sure the maker of the tool may give you that information.   I use the Timko puller very often and have used it for several years.  The parts have held up excellent.  I can not praise this tool any more than I have.  

where can I purchase the frank timko puller everyone is praising need for upgrade kit install! 

Portlines sells the wheel puller. The link is in a previous post also.

Larry

I'm convinced I ordered my frank timko puller last night only like to buy a good quality tool once!

thanks everyone for your great info!

Alan

http://timkorepairdepot.com

I don't know whether the puller is listed. I wrote to him and asked about it. He sent one right out.

I purchased it for my tool collection, haven't had occasion to try it yet.

I bought mine direct from Frank as well, it came very promptly.

Alan, a puller is not used to remove an MTH flywheel.  An Allen wrench is used not a puller.

thanks for the info Marty!

Alan

Marty Fitzhenry posted:

Alan, a puller is not used to remove an MTH flywheel.  An Allen wrench is used not a puller.

Which motor Marty?  I don't see any setscrews on the diesel motors.  Are you talking about the steam motors?

Of course he is, but why would you need a puller for an upgrade.  The original post was about pulling off wheels from an old train motor. G

George, I was merely addressing the Allen wrench comment, I don't know why he'd be pulling the flywheel off.

to do a ps 3 upgrade kit that's why!\

Alan

gunrunnerjohn posted:

George, I was merely addressing the Allen wrench comment, I don't know why he'd be pulling the flywheel off.

Well for Pittman motors if you want to use the tach holder, you need to pull the flywheel to add it. So the allen wrench would do it.  You correct about not diesels.

Now why Alan thinks he needs a flywheel puller to do an upgrade is a different story. You do not need that for an MTH upgrade, unless you want to add a different Flywheel.  Which I have done for some Lionel, 3rd Rail and K-Line PS-2 upgrades.  But that would be a Mabuchi motor and rare to be necessary.  G

thanks for the info George and Marty completed ps 3 upgrade and runs great. thanks. All for you help

Alan