What ceiling, if any, is above you basement layout?

I'm using Tyvek building wrap in bright white. Not as nice as drywall or drop but the way my basement is set up the best solution.

I have both, drywall where it can never get wet, and suspended where pipes are.

We had a drop ceiling from when we bought the house.  Not my favorite from an appearance or height perspective, but we have done a great deal of work to our house and the ability to access everything has paid off time and time again.  When we recently refreshed the basement, we changed all the drop ceiling tiles to freshen the appearance and added recessed lighting.  Now I think it looks as nice as a plaster / drywall ceiling, but maintains the advantage of access when needed.

Rolls of black fabric stapled to the joists. Stretched tight to look smooth. I use many LED spot and flood lights and it hides the wires well. Originally put up as a quick fix and to help manage dust from insulation.  Ended up coming out well enough that I have no plans of changing it. Installed in a few hours, total cost was about $200.00 I believe. 30x30 foot area. 

Funny that you should ask this now, as I am currently installing a drop ceiling in the train room. I'm using 2x4 tiles. 2x2 tiles just make the project more expensive. I like being able to have access to wires and pipes, as well as the ability to add more as necessary.

Acoustical tiles in the drop ceiling offer the added benefit of reducing the overall noise level generated by the trains.

I sprayed my unfinished ceiling flat black. That might not be practical for most situations but I am happy to have an unfinished ceiling. When we went house hunting last year, I was actually willing to pay more for unfinished basement vs. one that was set up. I wanted to know exactly where things were, and most of the finished basements I saw were pretty lame.

 

When I finished  our basement I installed a drop ceiling.  It's already paid off using this over a drywall ceiling when our washing machine, on the main floor, leaked and ruined the ceiling in the basement bathroom.  All I had to do was remove the wet ceiling tiles and replace them with new ones.

An acoustical lay-in tile metal grid ceiling both rooms.   Click on the underlined phrase to link.

 

At my previous house I finished the basement and used drywall on the ceiling and installed hi-hats. What a PITA!!! Never again would I do that! Never cared for the look of a drop ceiling in a home. I think they're fine for a business My current unfinished basement might get a coating of paint. Not sure yet. It's too dark down there. I've even considered painting it off-white. Another idea I've seen in plenty of restaurants is to paint the ceiling flat black, then put lattice work on it with tracking lighting. People I've talked to have me a chuckle when I told them I was thinking if doing that at my house. Maybe not a good idea then.

I had a drop ceiling and removed it when I began construction of my train room.  There were several reasons

1--Better access to plumbing and electrical wires 

2--Prevent having a mess if there was ever a problem on the 1st floor (water damage etc)

3--Provide an atmosphere that is associated with trains

 

I spray painted the ceiling brown to give it the "warehouse" look.  I got the idea from sitting in many restauraunts in Detroit that were originally warehouses, or other industrial  facilities.  The atmosphere was great in everyone because each facility now had its own character and individuality.

I am planning on acoustical tile painted black.

When I had my basement finished, most of the pipes were on the unfinished side.  I only have one small section on the finished where pipes run.  Since my basement ceiling is low, a drop ceiling would not work.  Plus, there is a central duct run through the center which is even lower. I have drywall with high hats.

Personally I like no ceiling treatment, other than paint everything flat black except light bulbs. Makes the room seem taller and focuses the attention on the trains. I also use flat black curtains around the bench work.You want to show off the trains not the room.  

I have a drop ceiling, Have seen them painted black and it seems too gloomy for my taste. But to each his own I say. It's yours do what suits you.

Jim

 

Our home and basement/garage was under construction when we were looking at it. The whole 1300 sq ft area was tall and used trusses. I really liked the open look and planned to paint it black but by the time the deal was struck the builder had installed drywall which really closed it in and lowered the ceiling. Although the area was large, the 8' ceiling still looked too low for my tastes.

The builder was very uncooperative about any changes even after we agreed to buy and signed the papers.

I mentioned this over in the other thread, but I'll add a few caveats here...

 

In a basement, acoustic ceiling tiles are the definitive way to go for access to those utilities..  No questions asked.  The only exception I could possibly think of is if you're starting with an already too low unfinished ceiling... In which case the decision is already made for you -- unfortunately.  

 

Also... Don't make the mistake thinking all ceiling tiles are alike.  I've seen ceiling tiles that are cheap and the resulting ceiling has a cold, clinical, industrial appearance to it.  Bad choice for a home basement.  Much better to spend the extra $$$ and go with an upgraded tile that has some texture too it and actually drops about a half-inch to an inch below the support grid.  This makes all the difference, and can add a tremendous amount of warmth and appeal to the basement room.

 

Another option is choice of color.  If the basement is gonna be multi-use, might be better to choose a lighter color.  Keeps everything neutral, light and airy.  However, if you have the luxury of a dedicated basement for the trains, black is the way to go.  While that may sound "dark" (it is), you'll find an all-black ceiling will be optimal for controlling various lighting effects... with focus being the train scenes -- not the ceiling itself... much like you'd see in a museum display.  Lights will ALWAYS be on to a large degree in this type of environment, so you're never getting by with just ambient light from windows.

 

If you're on the fence about an all-black ceiling, try and visit someone who's done it.  You'll see what I'm referring to immediately.  It's not for everyone, but it definitely has its merits when combined with effective lighting.  But you MUST follow through on the effective lighting.

 

David

I would agree, Sam.  Ideally, for anyone having the luxury of starting from square 1, I'd suggest a 9-foot minimum height for the finished ceiling.  That means the joists and duct-work need to be higher yet.  So plan accordingly when you're in the pre-construction phase.  If you're dealing with concrete block walls, that likely means adding a few extra courses of block beyond what the builder may have spec'd in originally.  Best to get this right VERY early in the planning stages for anyone building a home.    Once it's done, there's no turning back.

 

David

Agreed, I have 8 and half foot ceilings and the duct work and support beams hung down another foot and half. By the time you frame it out it comes down to a little over 7 foot in some areas, just too low.

sheet rock

Wow, what great timing on this question.  I have been looking for a few years on what to do with the ceiling. I finished the walls and floors but left the ceiling unfinished because I did not want the typical drop ceiling or drywall. Plus there was no way I would get a drywall ceiling as an after project.  I looked at a number of options. I looked at a product called Ecophon from CertainTeed because I have large open areas that I did not want the chopped up little squares.  With the semi concealed edges would make the grid lines less noticeable and they came in 48 by 48 panels. You can’t find too many options with panels that large.  Here is a link to the product:  http://www.certainteed.com/Products/313911

 

I decided on this and I am installing it right now.  Armstrong Country Classic Ceiling Plank.  You put up a grid system as with any drop ceiling but with special clips the panels are attached to the outside of the grid work. With the tongue and grooves holding the tiles in place.  You can glue these to and existing ceiling or use a special track for low ceiling locations which would drop the ceiling 1.25 inches.   Goes up very easy, though not as easy to get to pipes as with the standard drop ceiling product, they are accessible if needed. Plus if damaged, you just need to replace the ones needed.  Being prefinished once they are up it is done and no grid system showing.  Woodhaven is the more laminate product, like the floors... whereas the Country Classic in more the ceiling tile type product.

 

http://www.armstrong.com/rescl...ail.asp?itemId=44894 .

 

This is a video of the install process.   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ogxGNGAink

Unfinished ceiling.  Partly finished dry wall.

 

House is 13 yrs old.  Fully in ground basement.  8ft ceilings.  Last 2 ft of the walls actually are 'above ground'.  Put insulation bats in place there.  MD code requires insulation on all in ground walls, so that was already there - just not the 2 feet above ground.  Weird. 

 

Trains are in middle of floor on table.  Around sides are wall with trains on display shelves, Japanese slot machine, pachinko machines and pinball machines.

 

Have pendant lights I got at Ikea hanging from ceiling to light the train table.  Also have various items hanging from ceiling to obscure the rafters.  Kinds of semi-mancave-Cracker Barrel look.

 

Had leak in pipe a few years ago (pre trains) and was glad ceiling was not finished.  Has made doing things easier.  I always say there is so much "stuff" (another word, actually) in the basement that no one notices that it is not finished!

 

I have a cement slab for a ceiling.  I'm in the basement beneath my 2 car garage.  It's a 20' x 24' room that I share with the furnace and my hot water heater.  Over the layout I used panel adhesive and glued the 12" square ceiling tiles in place. 

It's not great but it's been glued there for 19 years now.

I do, however, park the cars in the driveway.  I didn't feel too at ease with 8K of automobiles over my head.

AF

I had an old friend who's basement had nothing. His house was old enough to have hardwood floors over strip wood underlayment. I don't know much about home construction, but this let dust, or other particles settle on his layout. He had a standard gauge layout with painted plywood, and accessories, etc and it was dusty. Another friend in an older home (1920s) had the same problem and dry-walled his ceiling, and that cured it. I hear the newer homes with plywood below the hardwood, or carpeting does not have this problem. Not that many seams. My house does not have plywood, but my ceiling has early 50s acoustical tiles on furring strips, (probably chock full of asbestos) as there is not enough headroom for a suspended ceiling. Anyone else experience the dust/dirt infiltration in older homes?  

Drop ceiling do cause dust.  I have trains and toy collection and my son's arcade machines on the small finished side..  This summer our plans are to paint the drop ceiling tiles.  There is no where near as much dust on the unfinished side of the basement with no ceiling tiles.

 

Does make track lighting and other things easy to see and store.  When the HVAC gys replaced my system, I just removed about 6 tiles and they were able to get in and left the layout just a little dusty.  Have had leaks in other house.  Take down old tile, replace with new tile.  Did not have to call a drywaller, tape and paint.

After having a water leak that hit my layout I would never have a ceiling in the train room and I would try very very hard to not put the layout near drains or joints.

When I bought my house it already had a drop ceiling in it which I would have done if it hadn't already been there. Drywall is great, but if you do have problems, it can be costly. The only thing I added was track lighting because the basement was always so dark. 

No ceiling, I sprayed everything white to reflect light back toward the layout. Similar to Norm except I sprayed the ductwork as well,  I went with a dark color in the "rec-room" part of the basement and hung can lights. If your ever in one of those themed family/tex mex type restaurants, look up, thats how all of their ceilings are done. Its inexpensive and tones things down regarding the shiny ductwork conduit etc.

My basement is finished off into a room. So it's dry wall. 

 

Gandy

Sheetrock.

Sheetrock

None of the above.

Rafters are barely 6 feet from the floor.

Very old house, stacked rocks for foundation.

I will be nailing up Tyvek or something similar for dust control.

I envy you guys with the drop down ceilings. I had to dig out for my basement floor. I sprayed my unfinished ceiling flat black. That might not be practical for most situations but I am happy to have an unfinished ceiling. I was tired after the digging.

 

 

 

But now hopefully no one looks at my ceiling...by the way I did install a wooden floor. Here is a picture of the floor and you can barely see the ceiling.

 

 

And now there is a layout in progress....probably will NEVER be finished.

 

Good old wood rafters with lots of lionel boxes stuffed in them.

Basement.  What Basement?  This is Houston TX! 

 

(But a man cave would be nice.......)

I went with the flat black sprayed ceiling. Very happy with my choice.