That is an excellent use of the flats on the corners.
Jay
Last week I experimented with using copper stained glass tape and clear packaging tape to make an insulated power contact for a new-to-me Marx #418 Bell Ringing Crossing Signal. the contact is less than 2" long so it makes the bell intermittently ring as each wheel crosses. I wasn't sure if I'd be able to solder it without melting the tape. I found it worked better first soldering the wire to the copper tape on the workbench and then sticking it over the clear plastic tape that's already on the rail. Not pretty but the bell ding-dings as the wheels pass.
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@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:I’m very fortunate and he also built my bench work. If there is an hurricane or tornado, we’re going under the layout.
And, we both enjoy triple distilled spirits.
The table looks great and with the rest of your layout built buy the same friend I can understand why you would be under it during a tornado! The good thing is now that I live in Tornado ally I know how strong I need to build my layout! LOL
Hi guys and gals, I have to say your all doing amazing stuff, but then again, I wouldn't except anything less from all your hard work!
I had to go back a page to see what you all were up to, I hate to say that with all the great work there is to much for me to comment on everyone's work! All I can say is I wish I had something to add to the forum page here!
I hope to be back to building soon as we will be closing this month and after getting everything settled I will have to start thinking about train room size. It all depends on how much room I want to leave for a work shop and how much I want for a train room. I have a 20' X 30' shop to work with! I am open to ideas, I have been thinking 20' X 20 but no bigger! Please give me your thoughts!
I hope you all have a great week and find time to have fun with your layouts and trains!
@mike g. posted:....I have a 20' X 30' shop to work with! I am open to ideas, I have been thinking 20' X 20 but no bigger! Please give me your thoughts!...
Mike, you are blessed that you have that size to work with! Your idea sounds good.
John
Mike, thinking long and narrower would be more useful than square. Tough to get in folded dogbones at 20 feet assuming 072 minimum. I would love to have the space for a walk in layout. How long was the room for your previous layout?
@mike g. posted:Hi guys and gals, I have to say your all doing amazing stuff, but then again, I wouldn't except anything less from all your hard work!
I had to go back a page to see what you all were up to, I hate to say that with all the great work there is to much for me to comment on everyone's work! All I can say is I wish I had something to add to the forum page here!
I hope to be back to building soon as we will be closing this month and after getting everything settled I will have to start thinking about train room size. It all depends on how much room I want to leave for a work shop and how much I want for a train room. I have a 20' X 30' shop to work with! I am open to ideas, I have been thinking 20' X 20 but no bigger! Please give me your thoughts!
I hope you all have a great week and find time to have fun with your layouts and trains!
Congratulations Mike that’s a good size canvas you have to work with. You might consider what prep work you want to consider; lighting, additional outlets, ventilation, and what you might want as a backdrop. My vote is always bigger is better but consider access around the perimeter and in the middle. Just for fun use painters tape on the floor to give you a perspective. It’s going to be exciting to see how your project develops.
Jay
Hi guys thanksnfor the input so far.
@ScoutingDad Jeff my old layout room was 12'w X 24' L.
I could possibly do a 10' X 30' but that wouldn't really leave me room to big reverse loops.
But I am open to ideas!
Yep but you could do an 'L' shaped room to gain the room for reversing loops. A 10x20 workshop is still good sized. I would consider a helix in a space like that (10x10) to gain vertical for upper level track.
@ScoutingDad posted:Yep but you could do an 'L' shaped room to gain the room for reversing loops. A 10x20 workshop is still good sized. I would consider a helix in a space like that (10x10) to gain vertical for upper level track.
Hi Jeff, I would think about a helix, but I do t have enough MTH scale trak and don't know if any other manufacturers mate up with it without a lot of work.
@mike g. posted:Hi guys and gals, I have to say your all doing amazing stuff, but then again, I wouldn't except anything less from all your hard work!
I had to go back a page to see what you all were up to, I hate to say that with all the great work there is to much for me to comment on everyone's work! All I can say is I wish I had something to add to the forum page here!
I hope to be back to building soon as we will be closing this month and after getting everything settled I will have to start thinking about train room size. It all depends on how much room I want to leave for a work shop and how much I want for a train room. I have a 20' X 30' shop to work with! I am open to ideas, I have been thinking 20' X 20 but no bigger! Please give me your thoughts!
I hope you all have a great week and find time to have fun with your layouts and trains!
Mike- think about swinging a 4x8 sheet of plywood around......I'd lean toward more of a 50/50 split for shop/ trains. You can always plan on opening a garage door as overflow space too. I do my bigger woodworking projects in my 2 car garage and find it a bit confining at times.
Bob
@mike g. posted:I hope to be back to building soon as we will be closing this month and after getting everything settled I will have to start thinking about train room size. It all depends on how much room I want to leave for a work shop and how much I want for a train room. I have a 20' X 30' shop to work with! I am open to ideas, I have been thinking 20' X 20 but no bigger!
Mike, great news! I certainly don’t have enough experience on a layout design, but I’m sure you’ll plan what’s best for you.
Gene
Mike:
Start by deciding how much space you need for a workshop and then figure how to partition off part of your 20' x 30' space to accommodate your layout plan.
For backdrops, I like mirrors. They "double" the size of your layout.
Our zoo scene butts up against a mirror. The giraffe pen is the last pen before the mirror. The road next to the zoo seems to continue for quite a long way. But close observation of the photo shows duplicate buildings beginning with the 4th visible building on the left. Also, there seem to be 2 Coca Cola delivery trucks facing each other on the road next to the zoo wall. The on farthest away is a mirror image.
The photo below is at the corner of the room. The duplicate blue walled skyscraper toward the top right of the photo is where the mirror, perpendicular to the mirrors across the back of the layout, is placed. The perpendicular alignment of a mirror against another mirror effectively quadruples the view of the scene. Our layout viewers find the mirrors very effective.
The scrap yard is up against the front wall of the house. The passing train and all of the visible buildings in the scene are mirror images.
I find the use of mirror backdrops to be a great way to make a smaller layout larger.
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I found a store front I liked for my parking garage tunnel. Store front started as a high quality N scale model. Scaling to over 250% brick details are still good. Then made some windows for it. Tried my 3D pen for the first time using it to weld the printed parts together. Worked great. Then I updated the layout of the city area of my elevated rail. Lights are mellower than the picture shows. May add some weathering to bring out to the storefront detail later.
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Morning guys first off I want to say I hope everyone is safe where the Tornados touched down in Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas and Missouri. I know they say 2 touched down near Joplin Mo. where we bought our new home!
@VHubbard Great looking setup for your garage tunnel! That is what I call thinking out of the box!
@RSJB18 Bob, I know what you are saying, even thought our new house has a 2 car attached garage it will only be used for cars. The shop will be for wood working and layout building!
@Genemed Neither do I but I know there are a lot of folks here on the forum, This place has an answer for almost any question that comes up. I am really leaning towards the 20' X 20' room for a layout. The only thing that could change this is if my truck wont fit in the attached garage! LOL
@Randy Harrison I love the idea of mirrors and have tried a couple on auto tunnels on my old layout to make it look like it really went somewhere!
I hope you all have a great day and find time to have fun with your layout and trains!
@mike g. posted:@mike g. posted:I hope to be back to building soon as we will be closing this month and after getting everything settled I will have to start thinking about train room size. It all depends on how much room I want to leave for a work shop and how much I want for a train room. I have a 20' X 30' shop to work with! I am open to ideas, I have been thinking 20' X 20 but no bigger! Please give me your thoughts!
Mike can you be more specific regarding room size showing windows, doors locations, etc? Is this a basement level or walkout, finished or unfinished, etc. Also, what shop tools do you need floor space for? The 20' x 30' indicate a large unfinished room but it would be helpful to understand more about its current use and location. Thanks, Dave
@darlander posted:Mike can you be more specific regarding room size showing windows, doors locations, etc? Is this a basement level or walkout, finished or unfinished, etc. Also, what shop tools do you need floor space for? The 20' x 30' indicate a large unfinished room but it would be helpful to understand more about its current use and location. Thanks, Dave
Hi Dave, the CEO says no trains in the basement, that's why we got the 20' X 30' shop. Right now it has a wall across the back of it to make a 10' X 20' room and the rest is open shop. My plan is to move it out to 20' , which would leave me a 10' X 20'w work shop area with a 16' roll up door.
I will try and get on SCARM tomorrow to draw something up from memory.
@trestleking posted:
Got some train-time today & continued laying out some subroadbed as well as plotting out the small yard, team track, etc. Pardon the mess, it will look better eventually ! 😃
Rich
I really like the open grid method you're using! Gives you many options to vary elevations and provide unique scenic detail. Good luck with your project!
Cheers, Dave
Picked up some freight cars, "like what was I thinking".... Anyway, got two of them pretty well 3 rail scaled in a couple of days.
One was the MTH Premier flat car with the Sebewaing Beer pup trailers, then 2 Lionel Round Roof boxcars.
Stripped all the trailer deck hardware off the flat car as I wanted the trailers for my industrial area where I have a beverage warehouse. Lowered it by at least 1/4", filled the holes, and did more scribing on the plastic wood grain deck before weathering.
To lower it, I cut off the MTH "top hat" stand offs that raise it to ridiculous levels, then bored out the hole to accomodate a washer, and used a Forstner Flat bottom bit 3/4" diameter to make room for a second re-inforcing washer. Photos below for anyone interested.
The Lionel RR boxcar has been dull coated, weathered with Pan Pastels on 1/2 the car. Figured I'd review some photos before I weather the other side.
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Working on a swing-up bridge spanning 24" and creating a outer loop.
I will be painting and adding bridgework to represent a steel bascule bridge.
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installed my old bowser turntable that I added Ross custom switches motor wheel and index kit. works nice. its not finished yet of course .
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Good evening everyone!
Finished with my first year of college and hit the summer running by weathering my TMCC GS2 which I hope to run on @Sams Trains layout next week.
My local train shop got themselves a nice selection of Ammo Rail Center paints so I decided to give them a try with this loco.
First up, the tender:
Next, I spent most of the evening into this morning working on the locomotive. Unfortunately, the original number boards deteriorated so I had to make some new ones through Microsoft Word.
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@Trainmaster04 posted:Good evening everyone!
Finished with my first year of college and hit the summer running by weathering my TMCC GS2 which I hope to run on @Sams Trains layout next week.
That is nice weathering work. I hope that you have more to come in the future. Please consider joining us on the recurring Wednesday topic under the Misc. Forums\Photo and Video Albums, "Weathering Wednesday", and share your work with us. It is great to share your accomplishments as well as learn new techniques from other members.
@Scottyhubcaps, thanks for showing us your Bowser Turntable, could you give us a little more information on what your using for the index system, and how your powering your rotation of the bridge. I’ll show you pictures of my 32 inch Bowser Turntable, which has a hugh torque stepper motor, PTC 3 indexing system. I did away with the big wheel under the turntable with the pressure motor from Bowser. Happy Railroading Everyone
I forgot to mention that it’s great to see @Mike G back on the forum and I look forward to seeing his new railroad in his new home in the future. Your house looks great. Happy Railroading Everyone
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@Randy Harrison posted:That is nice weathering work. I hope that you have more to come in the future. Please consider joining us on the recurring Wednesday topic under the Misc. Forums\Photo and Video Albums, "Weathering Wednesday", and share your work with us. It is great to share your accomplishments as well as learn new techniques from other members.
Thank you for the kind words! I did not know about that thread so I will look into it. I have an 0-8-0 up on the docket so hopefully I will have something to post soon.
I’ve been working on a way to install ETD’S on some rolling stock. It may not be prototypical in my application, but I like the concept of ETD’s so I decided to give it a shot. I wanted to install them on rolling stock that possibly ran after the advent of the EDT. I purchased battery powered flashing led kits and ETD units to be installed on a bulkhead flat car and a gondola which should arrive tomorrow. To make the install easier I made 2 boxes to hide the components. I very carefully drilled a hole on the ETD units for the led. My third install will be a boxcar that I haven’t yet purchased. At least with a boxcar, the components can be hidden inside without a box. 
I think it came out pretty good and it gives me the opportunity to run a future locomotive without having to buy a caboose.
Gene
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Looks good Gene.
Bob
@darlander posted:Mike can you be more specific regarding room size showing windows, doors locations, etc? Is this a basement level or walkout, finished or unfinished, etc. Also, what shop tools do you need floor space for? The 20' x 30' indicate a large unfinished room but it would be helpful to understand more about its current use and location. Thanks, Dave
Hi Dave here is what it looks like now, with the work shop in the back, I just want to switch it around so the work area is in the front by the big roll up door!
I hope I did it correct as it has been awhile working with scarm! LOL
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@chris a posted:Picked up some freight cars, "like what was I thinking".... Anyway, got two of them pretty well 3 rail scaled in a couple of days.
One was the MTH Premier flat car with the Sebewaing Beer pup trailers, then 2 Lionel Round Roof boxcars.
Stripped all the trailer deck hardware off the flat car as I wanted the trailers for my industrial area where I have a beverage warehouse. Lowered it by at least 1/4", filled the holes, and did more scribing on the plastic wood grain deck before weathering.
To lower it, I cut off the MTH "top hat" stand offs that raise it to ridiculous levels, then bored out the hole to accomodate a washer, and used a Forstner Flat bottom bit 3/4" diameter to make room for a second re-inforcing washer. Photos below for anyone interested.
The Lionel RR boxcar has been dull coated, weathered with Pan Pastels on 1/2 the car. Figured I'd review some photos before I weather the other side.
Chris, sure is nice how you lower your cars as needed! They look much better that way, I wish you could do a small tutorial video of you doing one and maybe where you get the washers from! I know if I lowered a some of my cars I wouldn't need all the shims to mount the Kadee's!
@mike g. posted:Hi Dave here is what it looks like now, with the work shop in the back, I just want to switch it around so the work area is in the front by the big roll up door!
I hope I did it correct as it has been awhile working with scarm! LOL
Mike, I agree the rollup door would be best on the work area. So how would the drawing look if you change the floorplan as you are thinking?
As some may already know, my former Lionel traditional type layout had four tables with working catenary. Long story short, sold my layout to a colleague back in 2006 ish. My buddy did not want the catenary so he returned it to me. It sat in a storage box for at least 16 years. They were in bad shape when returned. In the past year I have cleaned them up a bit.
What they are: MTH #71 Tinplate Traditions telephone poles, some K&S metal square and tubes, code 100 rail, and code 100 rail connectors. I bought quite a few #71’s through discounted liquidation practices. They went for about $20 / box!
I revised the former layout with less track and only three tables (semi hollow doors). Recently another buddy was coming over to buy the other 2350 I had. I thought I would set up an oval with overhead to share the idea with him.
so I made the best video I could (sorry for the sketchy video) to share what I did on my layout today.
Dig these sprung pantographs dipping under the Marx bridge?
so now, I may start to expand to the next table, little at a time. if I do, I will add the two signs in miniature!
Thx for viewing.
leroof.
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Afternoon guys I hope your all well!
@Kelunaboy The bridge is looking good! I am sure it will look great when your done!
@scottyhubcaps Nice turn Table, I just bought one last month I think it was, but I still have to make a trip to Tennessee to pick it up along with some other stuff! I hope you will post a video of it running when your ready!
@Trainmaster04 Great job on the weathering! Randy is correct about Wednesday weathering, those guys are doing outstanding work and I think you will fit right in!
@Genemed Gene great idea! I love it, that is something I would be willing to try!
@leapinlarry Nice to see you posting again! It's been a while and I know you and Farmer John have been really busy! While you have been working your rear off, I have been sitting here getting fatter and fatter waiting to start on the future layout room and layout! I still need to make a time frame when I can come down and see you!
I hope you all have a great week and find time to have fun with your layouts and trains!
@Mark Boyce posted:Mike, I agree the rollup door would be best on the work area. So how would the drawing look if you change the floorplan as you are thinking?
Hi Mark, it would just be a flip from what it is. It has been so long since I worked with SCARM I can't even remember how to do doors or windows.
I know when it comes to the layout plan I will Probably be asking for help as with all my other layouts! LOL
@Leroof posted:As some may already know, my former Lionel traditional type layout had four tables with working catenary. Long story short, sold my layout to a colleague back in 2006 ish. My buddy did not want the catenary so he returned it to me. It sat in a storage box for at least 16 years. They were in bad shape when returned. In the past year I have cleaned them up a bit.
What they are: MTH #71 Tinplate Traditions telephone poles, some K&S metal square and tubes, code 100 rail, and code 100 rail connectors. I bought quite a few #71’s through discounted liquidation practices. They went for about $20 / box!
I revised the former layout with less track and only three tables (semi hollow doors). Recently another buddy was coming over to buy the other 2350 I had. I thought I would set up an oval with overhead to share the idea with him.
so I made the best video I could (sorry for the sketchy video) to share what I did on my layout today.
Dig these sprung pantographs dipping under the Marx bridge?
so now, I may start to expand to the next table, little at a time. if I do, I will add the two signs in miniature!
Thx for viewing.leroof.
Leroof, what a wonderful job! It sure is smooth and looks great! I am glad you really like them, as for me I never seen one in real life so it is not my cup of tea.
Mike G. Thank you sir! But you know sometimes one just has to go forward with an idea. Not sure it was a good idea but there are No failed missions (mostly). I like it well enough to expand it once again. All my best Mike G.
Leroof, you are right, there are so many ways to enjoy the hobby, each of us has to pick one main way (in your case overhead electrification) and run with it. The pantographs do look cool as they dip under the bridge!
Mike, yes I got it now. So in a nutshell, you have a 20x20 space to work with. That’s almost 4 of my layout room. It’s big, but not that big. You will have decisions to make based on the size of the room. It’s exciting!
Larry, nice to see your turntable again and the layout.
Your catenary system is really a good Idea. Where did you get your code 100 rail and rail connectors?
Thank you.
@VHubbard posted:I found a store front I liked for my parking garage tunnel.
What a great idea VH. 
I never saw a parking garage like that on a layout. Nicely done sir.
