What Mini table saw is best?

 Hope someone offers some insights to the various models available as I too could use a smaller saw for modeling purposes.....DaveB

I'm no expert in these, as I have only researched what was out there and actually chose to not pursue (for a variety of reasons).

 

My understanding is that the micro-saws can do a good job on model-sized sheet lumber and plastic, but that in order to get to cut down full-sized dimensional lumber to the smaller size, a standard table saw is needed.  Maybe one of the woodworkers will chime in.

 

I'd like to hear an update too, so will keep checking back.

"My understanding is that the micro-saws can do a good job on model-sized sheet lumber and plastic, but that in order to get to cut down full-sized dimensional lumber to the smaller size, a standard table saw is needed."

 

  Hi Gregg, My experience is that a table saw works great to get the boards down near model size dimensions but a thinner blade would be a lot better for taking it to the final stages. A common table saw blade is wider than most scale lumber so over half the material is turned into saw dust. There's also the problem of working with thin material using larger teeth and table insert clearances that a small saw with thin blade could improve upon. If I could only have one saw I'd go with a full size table saw but a second small saw would be handy at times....DaveB

 

 

I used Penn State's mini saw for several years but found it useless for volume ripping. Had a couple of motor burn outs.

Large 10" and 12" table saws out at the farm shop are not suitable. I bought a small 8" table saw for $125 and used thin veneering blades and taped the open slots of the table insert surrounding the blade to temporarily prevent fall through of small stock.

 

It is important to utilize homemade jigs and thin but strong pushers/hold down tools for ripping the narrow stock such as used in the lumber shed picture below. Full eye and face protection is essential as well as maintaining one's focus on placement of one's hands.

 

 

I have used a Band Saw for ripping and crosscutting thin plywood, plastics and vinyl.  Most band saws are not practical for cutting larger wood, because they wobble and wont cut straight on the large stuff.  But, for thin light weight material they are great.  For cutting vinyl, it is best to attach it to a more substantial backing.  Scroll saws are probably ok, but all do not have rip fences.  There are a lot of band saws on the market with fine blades for less than $150.00. 

Here are two very good sources for modeling lumber.  Click on the underlined phrase to access.  From our Scenery Source List  part of the Scenery and Structures Forum.

Midwest Products.

 

Kappler Lumber

 

The quality of the product far exceeds what you could do with a saw.  IMO

Mike CT

I agree.  I get better than 90% of any size scale lumber I need from Kappler and if they don't list it, ask about getting it made.

 

I used to cut my own scale lumber and will still cut larger sizes if really necessary, but I like my fingers firmly and functionally attached to their current locations....

 

There are only a few operations that I actually need a table saw of any size, and for the rarity of those I can prevail upon the kindness of friends and associates with payment in kind.

Amen, Martin. 

After 40 years in the construction industry, I still count my fingers every day.  A blessing.   

We'll let that be the  Safety meeting of the Day. 

I keep this picture handy, I'm an electrician by trade and had a seasoned carpenter help with a lot of my bench work/early room remodel.  DJ simply looked away from the saw for a split second. The piece hit him in the chest, no harm done.  A small piece of 1/4" luan board.  Note the saw blade track. 

Mike CT

I don't own one of these but a few award winning scratch builders I know use this one.

 

Pete

Very cool play on words.  Talking about a wood table saw and substituting the word wood for would.  Got my day off to a good start.

 

Art

I use a Delta chop saw for many of my more intricate cuts to smaller pieces. It will not cut long stretches of material, but it is easy to control, always square (or whatever angle you set it on), and is easy to adjust. 

Where are you getting chestnut from???

Though basswood is widely used, I would like to use a harder wood. I find basswood soft and 'fuzzy' compared to other woods. I also would like to be able to cut my own as I do not want to wait on a particular size, small order, shipping cost that may be needed. I find it a pain to wait on a detail part when doing a project and wait weeks and sometimes months for a part (I then lose momentum and interest in the project). I was looking at the Micro-Lux table saw but did not much about it. I will use a regular table saw to "trim down" the wood. DaveB is correct as I rather have wood strips than sawdust, so a narrow blade is crucial. Stephen

mwb: I have a supplier in Cincy that deals in wood from all around the world. The original 1800's building was built using Chestnut wood. My goal is to keep it as original as possible. A model builder wanted $18,000.00 to build it for me. Yes I did type the $ amount correct. I have all the original plans when the building was erected in the 1800's. At that price, now you know why will tackle the project myself. Stephen

While I can appreciate your objective, the distinctive grain of the chestnut, particularly when 1/4 sawn, will not scale down and be rather wide & open when used at O scale.  In part, that is one of the reasons that bass wood is popular.  Cherry is less of a problem in that area.  Pine can be all over the place depending on the type of pine.  

 

"A harder wood"  -- maybe good clear sections of white poplar would be useful - tighter grain and a bit harder.

 

I had a chance to get a large truck load of chestnut several years ago when one of the buildings at my undergrad institute was renovated. Someone backed a truck up in the night and stole it.  Difficult wood to obtain as more is not going to be produced!  I have a few chestnut barn beams that I could have cut down if/when I need it for projects.

 

You still might want to take a look at Kappler -- their stock is extensive and I have had custom work done by them to supply materials for my kits and for my personal projects, and they do work in wood other than bass wood.  Just an possible option...

 

Martin.  The farmhouse, where I was raised is all chestnut/wormy chestnut.  Late 1920's early 30's vintage, as the trees died, from the blight, it was quickly sawed and used. It still has a distinctive smell when drilled these many years later.  It would be interesting to see wormy chestnut modeled.   IMO you could probably do a decent job of modeling these hardwoods with some appropriately tinted stains on basswood. I use a lot of golden oak stain (light) and walnut stain (dark).  Chestnut, I'm thinking dark, but not as dark as Walnut.  

 

You know, I've rip cut some very nice looking 2X4's straight/true and all that.  The two piece on occasion coming off the saw look like rockers for a rocking chair. Go figure, there must be something to that kiln dry stuff.   Point to be noted, making little pieces from big pieces isn't necessarily straight, and I emphasis straight, forward.    Best wishes with your project.   Mike CT

neither chestnut or cherry wood will cut well using mini saws. as mentioned, it is too much work for the motors. purchase a decent quality 10" bench saw (used in good shape works well), add a zero-clearance blade insert, to cut your stock down a size close to what you need, an Irwin or Freund furniture-grade thin kerf blade will do nicely. spending the money for a good quality blade makes all the difference. then use your mini-saw for the fine work, preferably source one with the highest rated motor amperage you can find.

 

with a good sharp blade, proper hold downs and careful work, you can cut pieces as narrow as 1/8" on a 10" bench saw. it does take experience to achieve.

 

I've owned a Delta 10" bench saw on a stand and used it over 20 years. Kept clean, well oiled with quality blades it does great work, without having to go to the heavy-duty Grizzly 10" table saw I also own.

 

In the second half of Episode 41 of the Model Railway Show podcast (link below), they interview the owner of Mount St. Albert scale lumber and two factoids that I found interesting were:

• A vast majority of the wood stock actually goes to sawdust as compared to that of the finished product – so even the pros have high amounts of waste.  I guess this explains the high prices .
• When people come to visit his shop, they are suprised that the specialized machinery that is used to make the scale lumber does not even look like conventional woodworking machinery at all.

 

http://www.trainlife.com/archi...odel-railway-show/41

 

Scott K.

Austin, TX

I agree with Chris. If you want to cut cherry and chestnut you have to have a better saw than a mini saw. Those little saws won't have the guts to make through and you'll get burn marks which are a pain to get out. Also if you induce to much heat into the wood your chances of getting a straight piece wil be slim. Use a good blade. I've used nothing but forest wood worker 2 blades and they give you a really nice cut. They're a bit more but they're worth it. There's a lot of good advice from the other guys. Get a good saw. Having the right tools is the way to go.

Being a wood worker for the past 27 years and I still have all my fingers also.

Ralph

Here's another thought. Have you cut stuff on a table saw before and are you comfortable doing it?

Ralph

Let me suggest that those who believe you need a full size table saw to cut hardwood check out this video. I do not own one of these nor do I have any connection with the company.

 

 

Here is just one example of what can be done with one. There are more in the link I provided above.

 

Pete

nwb: Actually chestnut does scale down to 1/4 scale. There are published articles in miniature magazines and I have seen it done first hand down to less than .021 inches (1" O scale). I will be using a digital caliper to check the accuracy of the wood within 1000th of an inch as this is normal for percut scale wood. Researching the Byrnes 4" Table saw has a 3 horsepower motor for hardwoods and will cut within a 1000th of an inch. Thanks Norton for you suggestion. Stephen

 "Researching the Byrnes 4" Table saw has a 3 horsepower motor for hardwoods and will cut within a 1000th of an inch."

 

   I think you have the decimal in the wrong place? My 10 inch Walker Turner saw only has a 1.5 horsepower motor. For cutting scale lumber power doesn't matter much, what counts is fence accuracy and stability of a thin blade.....DaveB

I may have not been clear. I was not referring to the size of the lumber when I stated "scale" but the actual grain of the wood itself - the actual grain of a wood does not scale for any wood since it does not change despite regardless of cutting it as fine as you might like.  I've done inlay and marquetry work with many woods and the tighter grained woods scale better into fine work.

I believe that saw is 1/3 hp.....

that Byrnes saw may be just the ticket. 1/3hp is fairly robust. no mention of the belt drive arrangement.

Chris has good points re zero clearance inserts and good blades; however, on a standard table saw you can make cuts thinner than 1/8" by removing the stock from the edge that is opposite to the fence (tedious, I know, but safe and accurate).

 

Allan

Hi Steve • I have been looking at mini table saws, but my bucket list keeps slowing me down because, I have a full scale Craftsman Table saw in the garage. This time of year, when it is cold in the garage. The mini table saw goes up on the bucket list.

 

http://www.micromark.com/micro...table-saw,11530.html

In O or 1/29th scale I use Kappler lumber, and Midwest basswood and balsa. If I can't build my project using those woods, Sintra, plexiglass or styrene the project probably won't be built.

 

Jeff C

 

 

What particular building are you modeling?  Also, why is it important to use three varieties of wood to model it?

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