What's a good way to seal decals?

I've been using solvaset for 50 years.  Probably painted and decaled at least 300 engines: 12 this past winter.

After sliding the decal off the paper to the surface, I use a folded tissue to push the decal down over rivets, etc.   Use good tissues that don't leave a lot of fuzz.

I use a fine, soft brush to apply it.  You have about 15 seconds to move the solvaset around on the decal and try to get an even distribution of the solvaset.  Better too little than too much: can always add more, later.  After applying it, don't 'screw around' with it or you'll ruin the decal.  When soft, the decal can get wrinkled when drying: leave it alone and let it dry thoroughly.   The soft brush allows you to move the solvaset over the decal without disturbing it.  After drying, any bubbles (white areas) still there, add more to seal those areas.  I've used a fine needle to poke a hole in bubbles.

Solvaset won't fix bad decals.  Some decals are just junk.  Before applying old decals, it may be best to put some microscale liquid decal film over the sheet.   When the decal falls apart in water, you know you needed the decal film.  Best to still have the decal on the paper when applying to the surface to keep the decal from folding on itself: when that happens, good luck on fixing that.  I cut the corners at a 45 degree angle to keep them from folding on themselves as this is where it happens the most when sliding a decal off the paper.   When a decal folds on itself on the surface, can sometimes use the soft brush with water to pull a corner out from itself.   Your last option is to put the decal back in the water and try to fix it and will have to slide it back onto the paper.  Water with the brush is also good to move the decal if not in the correct position.  Once located in the correct position, the soft tissue is used to remove the excess water.  If it moves, I add more water, correct the location and use the tissue again.  Once in the correct spot and all bubble appear gone, I then apply the solvaset.

I've gotten best results from microscale decals and champ decals.  Some of the old champ decals need the decal film to keep them from falling apart as they are out of business so the decals are old.  If kept in a cool, dry, dark place the decals last a long time and I've only had a few problems with old champ decals.

  My old bottle doesn't say Walther's on it but I'm assuming they use the same formula that my original bottle has.

http://www.micromark.com/Solva...ution-2-fl-oz-bottle

   I've been using Microsol when applying decals.  Should I be applying Solvaset

  after decals have been placed?

I wouldnt put tape directly on decals...too risky no matter what setting solution. Tape it like a window, tape around the outside and paper over the actual decal. 

If you HAVE TO tape over the decal, use low tack tape and dont press it firmly where the decal is.

I always gloss over the decals for a thicker coat to blend edges better....then flat finish over it when everything is completely dry.

Micro sol and micro set are other brands of solvaset.  I've tried those and, for me, nothing works better than solvaset.  In theory, the microsol should seal the decals to the surface.  If there is 'whiting' (blushing), get the solvaset to seal it.

I also, always apply a clear/satin finish over the entire model to seal the decals and paint.

#4 liner brush for applying the solvaset.  Michaels should have them in the artist department.

Jeoff posted:

 ...........I thought I had sealed them well enough  with the Testors dullcote but it obviously wasn't enough. I thought I had taken all  of the right steps during application so that the decals would seal but I must be  missing something.

 

 

No, Dullcoat is generally enough and it just might be you missed a spot.

I have however been using Rustoleum Matte Clear (249087) over both decals and dry transfers to seal these particularly when I'm using a combination of the 2 lettering methods/materials.

What to use when applying decals is a different topic entirely.

  I was careful not to push too hard on the tape. Some of the decals were a bit too

 small to mask around. I guess it wasn't too bright doing that in the first place. 

Although some guys use it successfully, I do not recommend Solvaset, especially on thin Microscale decals. It is just too "hot" and I watched in horror as it ate decals. I use Microsol.

Rob

Future Floor wax (whatever it's called today). before decalling.
Apply decals after Future has dried but before it's cured.
Solvaset
Future Floor wax again over the decals.
Dullcoat, or equivalent.

Should be foolproof.

Plus 1 on the Solvaset and Future Floor Wax.

I had a devil of a time using so old Champ CB&Q Decals. The lettering was fine but the red stripping was no longer red but had changed to orange. The decals were so old the address on the Champ envelope showed Chicago, x, IL. Can't remember the mail code so I used "x". Makes then pre-1965 or so.

I finally found new decals.

Dick

oldrob posted:

Although some guys use it successfully, I do not recommend Solvaset, especially on thin Microscale decals. It is just too "hot" and I watched in horror as it ate decals. I use Microsol.

Rob

I have never used Solvaset straight out of the bottle. I thin it 50/50 with alcohol so its not so "hot". That way it doesn't distort any of those fine decals like thin stripes. Takes a little longer to dry, and a couple applications, but its definitely safer for the decals.

Solvaset is basically a vinegar solution.   Microsol, ant Microset a slightly weaker versions, but pretty much do the same thing.  I've used Solvaset with Microscale decals with no issues (knock on wood!)  but when using the old out of production Oddballs Decals, it was not a good idea.   Those would definitely dissolve with Solvaset.   For sealing (overcoat) I use either Dullcoat, or Scalecoat flat.

"I masked off the decals"

What kind of tape did you use? Do not use regular masking tape.

Use a low-stick tape such as Tamiya masking tape or "Drafting Tape". You should be able to find the Tamiya tape at your local hobby shop. Nowadays, drafting tape is hard to find unless you have a good technical art store around. I had to get mine online.

Putting tape over decals is a bad idea.....learned it the hard way!!

A decal is an image on a thin carrier no matter how good you apply and seal it .....masking tape will have a lot more "grab" than the lettering will have "stick"!!!

"I masked off the decals so I could add some fresh glossy paint to the area where the decals were to be placed."

My next question is, why did you mask the area off if you were just spraying a clear gloss coat? Masking would have left distinct edges needing to be feathered, where just spraying would not. 
As mentioned above, taping over decals is a very bad idea. 

To solve another problem referenced in this string, I've used the Matte spray (or gloss spray) over older decals to recover them. Microscale decals, being so thin, completely disintegrate when they hit the water.

Another trick I use is to only wet the backing paper on the decal, especially when making or using ink jet decals. Reduces the risk of water getting in the sides of the decal and ruining them.

Use a fine bristle paint brush and just wet the backs a couple of times.

Jim

Jeoff posted:

 Hi O scalers,

     Recently I decided to add a safety slogan decal to a UP caboose. It already had a 

 few decals on it. I masked off the decals so I could add some fresh glossy paint to the

 area where the decals were to be placed. To my great horror when I removed the

 masking the old decals came off as well. I thought I had sealed them well enough

 with the Testors dullcote but it obviously wasn't enough. I thought I had taken all

 of the right steps during application so that the decals would seal but I must be

 missing something. Is there a better sealer out there? Any advice would be app-

 -reciated.

                       Geoff

 

 

Geoff:

I have a feeling the original decal was not properly placed. The section that is missing most likely had poor adhesion to the paint, therefore any sealer would probably not work.

For future taping consider using heavy paper over decals and taping along the edges of the paper around the decals. This is what I do for touch up spraying.

Joe

  Thanks for the replies. The original reason for doing this was  to paint over some damage

I had done to the car.  Needless to say if I were to do this again I would probably just strip

the old decals off and start with a clean slate. I'm almost having to do that anyway. I cert-

-ainly wouldn't recommend to anyone to tape over decals. I think I am going to try a heav-

-ier sealer like some of the previous posters suggested. I was looking at some of the Rust-

-oleum at the store and there is a clear gloss that is touted as a good sealer. I will try it

 first on an old flatcar that I decaled. If it seems to work I'll use it on the caboose followed

 by the Testors dullcote.  

     A little good news, I was successful in repairing the Pool "P" on the side with just a little

  red paint.  Hopefully the decaling goes as well.  

                Geoff