WHAT’S ON THE WORKBENCH AT THE MOMENT

@Ted S posted:

Bob, I'm with ^^Holmes.  I'm not a huge fan of WD-40 around trains, but it's a penetrant.  Before I would take a hammer to anything, I would spray some WD in there, and let it sit.  I also don't remember an epidemic of MTH diesels being under-gauged, so if the wheels were pressed on too tight, you were lucky enough to draw a lemon!

Then I'm makin' the lemonade........

As I mentioned, I bought this from Trainz in 2019 (a 1997 issue) and I don't think it was ever out of the box until now, so the trucks have had a long time to get comfy and not move. I did use WD-40 on the first one before going further. Helped a little but the added info of under gauged trucks makes sense as to why I'm having issues.

Thanks

@Rob Leese posted:

I may be the only person crazy enough to do this, and I wonder if many 2-Rail people follow this thread…if they do they need to sit down.  I found an exquisite Pecos River Brass RPO for not a lot money.  They historically cost a fortune, and they’re worth it.  

I Hi-railed it.

“you did WHAT !!??”

Rob,

Don't think you are the only crazy person to try this. I have a Pecos River passenger car that I'm trying to 3 rail so far unsuccessfully. Looks like you used Atlas trucks. How did you mount them? Could you post a picture of the underside?

Ken

@kanawha posted:

Rob,

Don't think you are the only crazy person to try this. I have a Pecos River passenger car that I'm trying to 3 rail so far unsuccessfully. Looks like you used Atlas trucks. How did you mount them? Could you post a picture of the underside?

Ken

The trucks are the original PRB.  The couplers are medium length Atlas, and are mounted on a center sill where the Kadees used to be.  I only had to drill one small hole at each end to mount the coupler assemblies. I may have to change the trucks some day but they are independent of the couplers.

@Rob Leese posted:

The trucks are the original PRB.  The couplers are medium length Atlas, and are mounted on a center sill where the Kadees used to be.  I only had to drill one small hole at each end to mount the coupler assemblies. I may have to change the trucks some day but they are independent of the couplers.

Thanks Rob. I had not thought of mounting the couplers like that. I'll have to see if it will work on my car.

Ken

One QA&P done and weathered. One Frisco in-progress.  These plug door boxcars are not exactly like the GARX cars, but they are as close as you are going to get without scratchbuilding.

A while back, I was able to pick up an MTH operating McDonalds at a fair price, used but in pretty good shape except for the lack of a vehicle. I remedied that with a 1:43 scale Mini Cooper, which, being a bit oversized, had about the right aspect to replace the missing OEM Ford Explorer. I also 3D printed and installed a set of benches and scratch-built tables, and added a cardstock-printed floor and counter to enhance the original blank and stark white interior. I was pleased with the result, but one thing kept nagging at me: the vehicle was moved through the drive-through stations by a flat plastic bar, which ran in an open slot running down the middle of the drive-through, part of the light gray base:

To make a long story a bit shorter, I spent a *lot* of time trying to come up with something to cover that very un-prototypical slot. Most were abject failures, but finally I tried a piece of black poster board trimmed to fit the drive-through lane, over a smaller ring of more rigid plastic, which covers the slot and rotates around the circle with the vehicle. I also cut holes for the plastic bar driver and for each wheel, so the wheels still contact the base and turn.

Here's a video I shot just before masking the base and painting the roadway flat black, to better match the slot cover and emulate asphalt:

After the base dries, I'll re-mask the piece and lightly dab all the "brick" areas with red oxide paint on a sponge brush, hoping to leave the original gray between the 'bricks' as mortar, and on the curbs as 'concrete'. Wish me luck!

Rob, the cars are looking great!

Steve, the McDonald’s is looking great!  The roadway is much more realistic.  One thing you didn’t mention is that the employee’s voice doesn’t sound right.  The customer’s and Junior’s voices sound great.  The employee’s voice needs to sound garbled so the customer can’t understand what’s being said.  😉  😄

@Mark Boyce posted:

Steve, the McDonald’s is looking great!  The roadway is much more realistic.  One thing you didn’t mention is that the employee’s voice doesn’t sound right.  The customer’s and Junior’s voices sound great.  The employee’s voice needs to sound garbled so the customer can’t understand what’s being said.  😉  😄

Hey, I run three-rail toy trains -- a certain degree of unreality is to be expected!

@Steve Tyler posted:

Hey, I run three-rail toy trains -- a certain degree of unreality is to be expected!

Valid point!! 

I would paint the poster board either In military colors German WWII  Panzer Gray or a mixture of Panzer Gray and flat black

Steve very nice alteration!  It would have been nice to see the underlying plastic ring.  Good luck with the painting, please post your final results.

@Steve Tyler posted:

To make a long story a bit shorter, I spent a *lot* of time trying to come up with something to cover that very un-prototypical slot. Most were abject failures, but finally I tried a piece of black poster board trimmed to fit the drive-through lane, over a smaller ring of more rigid plastic, which covers the slot and rotates around the circle with the vehicle. I also cut holes for the plastic bar driver and for each wheel, so the wheels still contact the base and turn.

Here's a video I shot just before masking the base and painting the roadway flat black, to better match the slot cover and emulate asphalt:

After the base dries, I'll re-mask the piece and lightly dab all the "brick" areas with red oxide paint on a sponge brush, hoping to leave the original gray between the 'bricks' as mortar, and on the curbs as 'concrete'. Wish me luck!

Great creativity Steve. The added detail of the wheels turning is cool too.

They must have hired a retired NYC Transit motorman to do the announcements.......

@coach joe posted:

Steve very nice alteration!  It would have been nice to see the underlying plastic ring.  Good luck with the painting, please post your final results.

Thanks! The plastic ring was one of my first efforts, consisting of three curved sections cut out of a stiff plastic document cover, trimmed to fit together, with aluminum tabs glued underneath to ride in the slot. The problem was that the sections of the ring never quite fit properly, and the ring tended to deform and lift up when it rotated, even with the tabs. Eventually I scrapped it in favor of a one-piece posterboard ring with no tabs, which operated better but also tended to deform and lift up under power.

The solution turned out to be to salvage the plastic ring, using sections attached under the posterboard ring with double-sided tape to keep it straight. I still have some more fitting to do after I finish the painting, but for now I'm satisfied with the progress, and will post more pics later.

@RSJB18 posted:

Great creativity Steve. The added detail of the wheels turning is cool too.

They must have hired a retired NYC Transit motorman to do the announcements.......

Thanks! I can't claim the wheels turning as my innovation -- the original piece does that, too -- but I *was* able to strategically cut holes in the posterboard slot cover to retain the original action and avoid freezing the wheels in place.

As to the voices, yeah, one of my on-going regrets is that I've found no way so far to change the audio files. That single 'radio' song is driving me nuts, and as others have pointed out, the prices on the orders are definitely period pieces! Plus, I'd love to do an audio script and use family members (many of whom are lifetime McD junkies!) to do the ordering and/or fry slinging roles!

Anyone have any info on the possibility of changing the audio files, or is it all hard-wired?

@Steve Tyler  Steve there are all kinds of sound modules available to do this kind of thing.  Imports MP3 files and plays back sequentially or on button press or light sensor. They start at $10.   Sometimes called a Programmable Sound Chip for Greeting Card includes speaker board etc.  I have been thinking about doing this to add sounds to a hotel and for a freight yard.  I bought a preprogrammed module a few years ago with birds and crickets - neat little unit.

@ScoutingDad posted:

@Steve Tyler  Steve there are all kinds of sound modules available to do this kind of thing.  Imports MP3 files and plays back sequentially or on button press or light sensor. They start at $10.   Sometimes called a Programmable Sound Chip for Greeting Card includes speaker board etc.  I have been thinking about doing this to add sounds to a hotel and for a freight yard.  I bought a preprogrammed module a few years ago with birds and crickets - neat little unit.

Oh, I'm well aware of such systems -- I used one recently to add sound effects to the camping/wilderness area on my layout:

The problem in this instance is finding a way to coordinate the sound with the animation, and have it all initiated by a single button push. I suppose I could just disable the internal sound system, edit and time sound files(s) to match the animation, and load them into a sound module which would be powered through the same push-button activation as the animation. Hmmm . . .

Well, I finished the painting for now (masking and adding a red oxide dry brushing to the outer sections of brick paving) and shot a short video to show what I've attempted as improvements to the OEM piece, including the upgraded interior, the external painting, the cover for the slot in the road, and a few personalizing touches (that's my mother in the poster on the signpost, posed in front of her favorite McDs!). I still have a bit of tweaking to do (for instance to get the slot cover to lay down a bit flatter), but for now I'm satisfied with the result. What do you think?

It works and looks great Steve!

Steve, I'm with Mark.  Nice job and to think all of this came about because it was missing the van.

@Steve Tyler posted:

Well, I finished the painting for now (masking and adding a red oxide dry brushing to the outer sections of brick paving) and shot a short video to show what I've attempted as improvements to the OEM piece, including the upgraded interior, the external painting, the cover for the slot in the road, and a few personalizing touches (that's my mother in the poster on the signpost, posed in front of her favorite McDs!). I still have a bit of tweaking to do (for instance to get the slot cover to lay down a bit flatter), but for now I'm satisfied with the result. What do you think?

Very cool

@Steve Tyler posted:

Well, I finished the painting for now (masking and adding a red oxide dry brushing to the outer sections of brick paving) and shot a short video to show what I've attempted as improvements to the OEM piece, including the upgraded interior, the external painting, the cover for the slot in the road, and a few personalizing touches (that's my mother in the poster on the signpost, posed in front of her favorite McDs!). I still have a bit of tweaking to do (for instance to get the slot cover to lay down a bit flatter), but for now I'm satisfied with the result. What do you think?

Looks great!  Now, if you can only get the car to drive away and a different one to come through the drive-in, that would be really something.

What's on the workbench?  As layout construction progressed, my on the layout top workbench got smaller and smaller.  I finally mentioned to my wife that a workbench in the family room where our daughter's piano had been removed a couple months ago would be nice.  She agreed.  I was contemplating what to use for a workbench when she suggested her dad's old desk.  It is already beat from his use.  Today we moved it into place.  Here it is under the Ceiling Central Railroad and painting my aunt painted in 1960 that hung in my parents' living room until we had to sell the house in 2019.  The entrance to the train room is right at the right edge of this photograph, so it is a handy location.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Looks great!  Now, if you can only get the car to drive away and a different one to come through the drive-in, that would be really something.

Maybe I can figure a way to let the E-Z Streets or Faller traffic stop by for a Big Mac while circling . . . 🤪

@ThatGuy posted:

Very cool

Tx!

@Steve Tyler posted:

Maybe I can figure a way to let the E-Z Streets or Faller traffic stop by for a Big Mac while circling . . . 🤪

There you go, a Sunday project that will last all month!

@Mark Boyce posted:

What's on the workbench? 

So . . . your workbench is what's on the workbench? I'm so confused . . . 😵‍💫

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

There you go, a Sunday project that will last all month!

Hmm, let's see . . . if I build a stationary ramp over the drive-thru just before the end, and tilt the piece just right, I can get the current vehicle to roll off an exit, Then, I can use a crane car to lift a new car off the car carrier and onto the drive-thru track! Yeah, that's the ticket! 😜

On second thought, I think I'll just stick to the sound files for now! 🙄

A little red n tacky in the gear box.

@Steve Tyler posted:

So . . . your workbench is what's on the workbench? I'm so confused . . . 😵‍💫

I have never had a dedicated modeling workbench in all my 50+ years modeling.  In my excitement, I just posted the workbench before putting anything on it.  You gotta start somewhere!  😆

Here we go Steve.  I laid out the girders for when I revamp my lower girder bridge once all the outdoor leaf remodel is done.

@Mark Boyce posted:

What's on the workbench?  As layout construction progressed, my on the layout top workbench got smaller and smaller.  I finally mentioned to my wife that a workbench in the family room where our daughter's piano had been removed a couple months ago would be nice.  She agreed.  I was contemplating what to use for a workbench when she suggested her dad's old desk.  It is already beat from his use.  Today we moved it into place.  Here it is under the Ceiling Central Railroad and painting my aunt painted in 1960 that hung in my parents' living room until we had to sell the house in 2019.  The entrance to the train room is right at the right edge of this photograph, so it is a handy location.

Congratulations Mark and enjoy the moment. It probably won’t look that neat, and uncluttered, ever again.

Jay

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Congratulations Mark and enjoy the moment. It probably won’t look that neat, and uncluttered, ever again.

Jay

Thank you, Jay!!  😄😄

@Mark Boyce posted:

I have never had a dedicated modeling workbench in all my 50+ years modeling.  In my excitement, I just posted the workbench before putting anything on it.  You gotta start somewhere!  😆

@Mark Boyce posted:

Here we go Steve.  I laid out the girders for when I revamp my lower girder bridge once all the outdoor leaf remodel is done.

Well, *that's* better! I didn't want to say anything about your slacking off, Mark, but . . .

I posted about a switcher with no apparent way to remove some linkage to change a traction tire.

@Steve Tyler posted:

Well, *that's* better! I didn't want to say anything about your slacking off, Mark, but . . .

Yes, it first appeared I was slacking!  😄  Maybe I still am.  Time will tell how much stuff ends up there to support various projects.  😆

I've hit the dreaded zinc pest wall with the RS27 I've been working on. I reassembled the rear truck and put it back on the frame, and took the front one off yesterday. Things looked bleak from the beginning. The top of the truck had the telltale signs of zinc pest (cracks in the casting).  Well, I didn't get too far before one of the side frame mounts broke and then a piece broke off on the under carriage. So now I'm shopping for a new pair of trucks.

SIGH.........

Bob

@Steve Tyler- seeing the car leave would be over the top. I think you're right....stick with the sound file for now.

@Mark Boyce- The bench-desk looks great! Won't ever look like that again I'm sure.....
I like the old NuTone intercom on the wall. I actually installed a few of those systems in my early contracting days. They were the predecessor to smart speakers. Nutone made a base unit with a AM/FM receiver and cassette deck that would play throughout the house.

Bob

Picked up a AHM/Rivarossi U-4A 0-8-0 I guess from the 60s/70s the past owner made changes to 3 rail and added a pw Lionel e-unit along with a berk motor, will give her a good degreasing and service the motor, will add a light and re glue some parts that were in a bag, anyone have any history on this o scale loco? Thanks

@RSJB18 posted:

@Steve Tyler- seeing the car leave would be over the top. I think you're right....stick with the sound file for now.

@Mark Boyce- The bench-desk looks great! Won't ever look like that again I'm sure.....
I like the old NuTone intercom on the wall. I actually installed a few of those systems in my early contracting days. They were the predecessor to smart speakers. Nutone made a base unit with a AM/FM receiver and cassette deck that would play throughout the house.

Bob

Thank you, Bob!  You are right, it already has some stuff on it!  😄  Yes, Kim’s grandpa had the Nu-tone installed when the house was built in ‘68.  She said they played with it some.   None of it worked when we moved in 12 years ago.  The piano covered this one until recently.  I still have to figure out something to cover the holes when we move, whenever that will be.  😄

@Mark Boyce posted:i

Yes, it first appeared I was slacking!  😄  Maybe I still am.  Time will tell how much stuff ends up there to support various projects.  😆

Oh, I'm sure you'll find plenty to do . . . or rather, the layout will find something *for* you! 

@RSJB18 posted:

@Steve Tyler- seeing the car leave would be over the top. I think you're right....stick with the sound file for now.

[Moping mode on] Oh, all right . . .

Seriously, though, that's kinda how I roll (see what I did there? ) -- outrageous ideas float up and grab my attention, reluctantly get tabled for the moment, then sometimes come roaring back later as the opportunity (and developing skill set!) permits! For instance, I've always been intrigued by the various auto and truck animation systems, but my limited real estate (only 8X8) has kept me from jumping in. I even looked seriously at a 3D printed alternative before restoring the potential project to the mental shelf.

However, if I converted the McDonalds peg-driven system to a magnet-driven system like Magnorail (likely all that'd be needed is to just trim the peg down and attach a magnet), and arranged for the car track to end at the McD entrance, it might be possible to have a car roll off the Magnorail track, be 'caught' by the magnet on the McD track, and be drawn around the drive-thru (maybe even initiated by a photocell). Still have to work out how to decouple the vehicle from the McD's track and get it back on the Magnorail loop, but . . .

I guess the workbench is on the work bench?  Cleared out all the old bins and boxes of train stuff. Removed old shelving. Repainting closet and installing a foldable table for train related work.  Got the wall brackets up today and set the soon to be tabletop in place and figuring out what size I’m going to cut it down to.

@ThatGuy posted:

Ahhhh the black and decker work mate, one of the finest no one knows about tools ever made. Saved my butt many times when another set of hands was needed. Great job!

Yes! I've had a Black and Decker Workmate, seems like forever, I think I bought it at K-Mart, but it has saved me so many times too when I needed an extra set of hands. I've clamped one end to my garage workbench so it would hold heavy things like a door without falling over. I've definitely gotten my money worth out of it.😁

@RSJB18 posted:

I've hit the dreaded zinc pest wall with the RS27 I've been working on. I reassembled the rear truck and put it back on the frame, and took the front one off yesterday. Things looked bleak from the beginning. The top of the truck had the telltale signs of zinc pest (cracks in the casting).  Well, I didn't get too far before one of the side frame mounts broke and then a piece broke off on the under carriage. So now I'm shopping for a new pair of trucks.

SIGH.........

Bob

Ahh man. Sorry to hear that. Was hoping that was gonna work out for you.

@Donnie Kennedy posted:

Ahh man. Sorry to hear that. Was hoping that was gonna work out for you.

Thanks Donnie. I was optimistic until I dropped the front truck.

Life goes on as my bank account goes down.....😉😉

@RSJB18 posted:

I've hit the dreaded zinc pest wall with the RS27 I've been working on. I reassembled the rear truck and put it back on the frame, and took the front one off yesterday. Things looked bleak from the beginning. The top of the truck had the telltale signs of zinc pest (cracks in the casting).  Well, I didn't get too far before one of the side frame mounts broke and then a piece broke off on the under carriage. So now I'm shopping for a new pair of trucks.

SIGH.........

Bob

Sorry to hear the trucks were unrecoverable, Bob. Now I'm nervous about my PS-1 CNJ Trainmaster (ca 1999). While it doesn't appear that there are any cracks in the truck bodies, there is almost no side to side play in the inside worm and gear driven wheelsets indicating expansion may be occurring.

@Bill Swatos posted:

Sorry to hear the trucks were unrecoverable, Bob. Now I'm nervous about my PS-1 CNJ Trainmaster (ca 1999). While it doesn't appear that there are any cracks in the truck bodies, there is almost no side to side play in the inside worm and gear driven wheelsets indicating expansion may be occurring.

Bob, I’m with Bill and others; sorry the trucks are shot.  😢😢   I have a PRR RSD4 that I looked up to see it was made in 1995.  I didn’t get a chance to examine it yet.

This brings up a question for all, What manufacturer dates was this metal used.  I realize it may be all over the place in time frame, but wondering if it can be pinpointed.

@Bill Swatos posted:

Sorry to hear the trucks were unrecoverable, Bob. Now I'm nervous about my PS-1 CNJ Trainmaster (ca 1999). While it doesn't appear that there are any cracks in the truck bodies, there is almost no side to side play in the inside worm and gear driven wheelsets indicating expansion may be occurring.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Bob, I’m with Bill and others; sorry the trucks are shot.  😢😢   I have a PRR RSD4 that I looked up to see it was made in 1995.  I didn’t get a chance to examine it yet.

This brings up a question for all, What manufacturer dates was this metal used.  I realize it may be all over the place in time frame, but wondering if it can be pinpointed.

I found an old thread yesterday that lists some of the affected models. I haven't read through it yet but I have it bookmarked on my laptop.

I found a new pair of trucks from a forum member yesterday. The engine is too nice to leave on the shelf so the rebuild will continue when they arrive.

Thanks

@RSJB18 posted:

I found an old thread yesterday that lists some of the affected models. I haven't read through it yet but I have it bookmarked on my laptop.

I found a new pair of trucks from a forum member yesterday. The engine is too nice to leave on the shelf so the rebuild will continue when they arrive.

Thanks

Bob, I’m glad you found a forum member who can send you new trucks.

Wow, what a list!  I didn’t see anything I have, but now I understand what gassing is.  I’ll be on the lookout, as when I sell something I don’t want to push my problem on someone else!!

@RSJB18 posted:

I found an old thread yesterday that lists some of the affected models. I haven't read through it yet but I have it bookmarked on my laptop.

I found a new pair of trucks from a forum member yesterday. The engine is too nice to leave on the shelf so the rebuild will continue when they arrive.

Thanks

Glad you found replacement trucks, Bob. If you have a wheel puller, you may want to pull the wheelsets and drive gears from the "pested" bodies for future use, if you haven't already.

To all the folks who pointed out nothing was happening on my new workbench.

You were right, it didn’t take long.  Here I’m starting to build the visitor steps and platform for the display caboose I will give to the Model Train Club of Zelienople.

@Bill Swatos posted:

Glad you found replacement trucks, Bob. If you have a wheel puller, you may want to pull the wheelsets and drive gears from the "pested" bodies for future use, if you haven't already.

I have a Timko puller. I'll see if anything is worth saving. I already snapped a flange on one wheel trying to move it on the shaft. The internal worm and the idler gears are probably not worth the effort.

Thanks

@Mark Boyce- You're right, didn't take long. I more comfortable chair may be advisable.

Bob

Hi Mark Boyce hope to see you at York on Thursday or Friday! really glad to see you now have a work Bench finally!

Alan Mancus

@Alan Mancus posted:

Hi Mark Boyce hope to see you at York on Thursday or Friday! really glad to see you now have a work Bench finally!

Alan Mancus

Thank you, Alan!  I am afraid I won’t be at York, though I wish I could attend!  The back surgeon has turned me loose, not needing any follow up unless I have new trouble.  However, having had two back surgeries, I know I am not up to the 5-hour trip from Northwestern Pennsylvania yet.  I’m following my pt regimen and hope to be in great shape next year!!  👍🏻👍🏻

@RSJB18 posted:

I have a Timko puller. I'll see if anything is worth saving. I already snapped a flange on one wheel trying to move it on the shaft. The internal worm and the idler gears are probably not worth the effort.

Thanks

@Mark Boyce- You're right, didn't take long. I more comfortable chair may be advisable.

Bob

Bob, you are absolutely correct on the chair for the workbench.  I have an ongoing problem with my damaged right sciatic nerve if I sit on it without good padding, much less the need of lumbar support. 😱

@Mark Boyce posted:

Bob, you are absolutely correct on the chair for the workbench.  I have an ongoing problem with my damaged right sciatic nerve if I sit on it without good padding, much less the need of lumbar support. 😱

This is what I use for my workbench chair, pretty comfy.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

This is what I use for my workbench chair, pretty comfy.

John, thank you for the photograph.  The back and seat of your chair are very similar to the chairs the telecom company bought us a few years before I retired.  I liked that chair.

I am taking a set of MTH, congressional scale, passenger cars four and detailing them, I have painted around the windows with black paint to simulate rubber gaskets. I have removed the MTH lighting and installed LED lighting. I have painted the rudimental interiors and added people, note to add people to the café car. You have to cut their legs off otherwise they don’t fit on the seats. Also, if you have these cars and the placards are starting to peel off gently take them off place them upside down sticky side up on a piece of cardboard and spray with 3M 77 super tack. Let them sit for 20 minutes and then install with tweezers .

Upgrading a Pullmor motor Lionel Mohawk under the tutelage of the Master who has done more Pittman upgrades than I have engines. Main components in place including a Cruise Commander, 4 lobe cam, and chuff switch. Just have to add a few components for the chuff circuit and wire it up.

Then for the detailing to bring it closer to current offerings.

Pete

@Norton....

Really, REALLY nice work on your conversion! Is this engine postwar? I've been thinking about converting one of my postwar Turbines (681) to a DC can motor w/ERR electronics. My conversion would be a tad easier considering the 681 doesn't chuff; just a constant roar fo steam and smoke!

I would greatly appreciate it if you would provide sources for the DC can motor and drive shaft linkage. The mounts all appear to be custom; made by you.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

This is what I use for my workbench chair, pretty comfy.

@gunrunnerjohn

John:

Where did you get the chair? How high off of the ground does the seat extend? Is there a maximum weight capacity for the chair?

Thanks for any information you can provide.

@Junior posted:

@Norton....

Really, REALLY nice work on your conversion! Is this engine postwar? I've been thinking about converting one of my postwar Turbines (681) to a DC can motor w/ERR electronics. My conversion would be a tad easier considering the 681 doesn't chuff; just a constant roar fo steam and smoke!

I would greatly appreciate it if you would provide sources for the DC can motor and drive shaft linkage. The mounts all appear to be custom; made by you.

This engine was made in the late 1990s and had a separate driveshaft with worm.

I believe your 681 has the worm machined into the armature shaft. The motor is a Pittman 56 mm purchased from Lionel. Also a bit large for a 681 as a good portion would extend beyond the cab.

You would be better off finding a modern turbine that already has a DC motor. Williams and MTH made them and maybe Lionel on their PWC series. Then you could add ERR directly and not modify your Post War engine.

Pete

@Randy Harrison posted:

@gunrunnerjohn

John:

Where did you get the chair? How high off of the ground does the seat extend? Is there a maximum weight capacity for the chair?

Thanks for any information you can provide.

Paste this into Google, and it'll find it at Amazon.  It's gone up around $30 since I bought it, but still only $123.

Office Star DC Series Deluxe Breathable Mesh Back Ergonomic Drafting Chair with Lumbar Support

Seat height 24" to 34" high, max weight 275 Pounds.

@Norton posted:

This engine was made in the late 1990s and had a separate driveshaft with worm.

I believe your 681 has the worm machined into the armature shaft. The motor is a Pittman 56 mm purchased from Lionel. Also a bit large for a 681 as a good portion would extend beyond the cab.

You would be better off finding a modern turbine that already has a DC motor. Williams and MTH made them and maybe Lionel on their PWC series. Then you could add ERR directly and not modify your Post War engine.

Pete

Good point. There’s also the option of my installing an ERR AC Commander, but I haven’t had good luck with those. I put one in a postwar F3. The board was screwed to the frame. It ran okay (no cruise) but the board generated so much heat the frame’s tank (where the board was screwed to) got really warm! The engine was pulling a dummy and 5 passenger cars; so not that big of a load.

I ended up having the Pulmor motors replaced with DC can motors and put in a DC Commander w/Cruise. It runs really nice now.

@Junior posted:

Good point. There’s also the option of my installing an ERR AC Commander, but I haven’t had good luck with those. I put one in a postwar F3. The board was screwed to the frame. It ran okay (no cruise) but the board generated so much heat the frame’s tank (where the board was screwed to) got really warm! The engine was pulling a dummy and 5 passenger cars; so not that big of a load.

I ended up having the Pulmor motors replaced with DC can motors and put in a DC Commander w/Cruise. It runs really nice now.

This is a Williams Turbine. The motor is a Mabuchi RS385 typically used in small engines and diesels. Its considerably smaller than the 56mm Pittman and still fills the cab.

Pete

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Paste this into Google, and it'll find it at Amazon.  It's gone up around $30 since I bought it, but still only $123.

Office Star DC Series Deluxe Breathable Mesh Back Ergonomic Drafting Chair with Lumbar Support

Seat height 24" to 34" high, max weight 275 Pounds.

@gunrunnerjohn

John:

Thank you VERY much! This is better than other options I have found that cost much more. Now, there is one of these in my future whether it be me purchasing it soon or trusting Santa Claus to deliver one under my tree.

I measured, and the drafting chair John has is too tall for my table.  I have been looking at the desk chair alternatives, and will find one to ask Santa for like Randy.

@Norton posted:

This is a Williams Turbine. The motor is a Mabuchi RS385 typically used in small engines and diesels. Its considerably smaller than the 56mm Pittman and still fills the cab.

Pete

Oh yeah…..I see what you mean.

Thanks for all the great info @Norton.

Lighted Baggage Car with interior project.  Baggage car is an add on to the LionChief Santa Fe SuperChief set.  It is unlit.  But the trucks are the same as the lit coaches but without the pickups.

The pickup roller was available from Lionel, but the outer wheel pickup strip was not (except for the mounting screw).  Made my own from .003 phosphor bronze sheet (.005 would be better but couldn't find any).  Did both trucks.

Floor insert was made from 1/16" polystyrene sheet with a wooden scale floor pattern printed on card stock and glued to the styrene with 3M Super77 Spray adhesive.

Made the light strip from same styrene sheet with holes that lined up with the LED mounting posts on the roof that get attached with black #2-28 self tapping screws for plastic.  Cut two 3 LED sections from a roll and stuck them on opposite ends of the strip.  A ZH-2P connector is the interface.

Bought two sets of "O Scale Luggage Cart Suitcase set Platform Accessories Multicolor" from an Ebay vendor.  24 pieces of luggage altogether.  They already had a base color so I used various permanent marker colors to shade the textured part of the luggage then used the markers for the hinges, handles, etc.

Some wire routing under the floor.

I used one of the Greg M's PCB's that I had Osh Park make for me two years ago, soldered the components on it, tested it, mounted it in the center out of sight and it looks like this:

Completed baggage car on the track.

John

@Craftech

John:

Your passenger coaches are looking to be great. Also, thank you for the lead on the O scale luggage. I have been looking for good luggage for years. I just bought 4 sets.

@Randy Harrison posted:

@Craftech

John:

Your passenger coaches are looking to be great. Also, thank you for the lead on the O scale luggage. I have been looking for good luggage for years. I just bought 4 sets.

Thanks Randy.

John

I bought a Lionel 17213 Susie-Q boxcar a couple of months ago.  I thought it would be a great place to put a couple of hobos riding the rails inside.  But, I wanted a bit more so I cut a wooden barrel in half, hollowed it out, painted the outside gray to mimic a metal barrel, and painted the inside black.  I drilled 2 small holes at the base in order to run the wires from two flickering orange LEDs I bought from Evans Design.  The tricky bit was adding a collector to the car.  Luckily, Train Tender Jeff had all the parts I needed, but it still took some 'adjustments' in order to have them securely attached.  I used one of GRJ's lighting modules to provide as uninterrupted current as possible to the lights since I did NOT want to add a collector to the other truck.  I used some Arrista hobo figures, and some miscellaneous crates and boxes I bought from the bay in order to fill out the inside (and also cover the wires).  I put some white cotton on top of the flickering LEDs to hide the bulbs and give the illusion of smoke.

I'm sure a lot of y'all could really have done a much better job, but I'm pleased enough with this.  I certainly picked up a lot of good skills for working with models.

@texgeekboy…

Nice! Really creative. Could I entice you to post a short video? Would love to see it in action!

@Junior,

Will do, but it'll be tomorrow or Sunday.

IT looks like the hobos have totally commandeered that Susie-Q car!  Well done!

@Mark Boyce posted:

I measured, and the drafting chair John has is too tall for my table.  I have been looking at the desk chair alternatives, and will find one to ask Santa for like Randy.

Raise the desk! Cut 4 pieces wood to size of desk legs. Length, width, and height. Use a couple good size dowels in each leg. Drill into the desk legs bottom, measure and match to the extension blocks. Insert and glue dowels into the desk legs, and spread glue around on the desk legs then put glue into the extension blocks, tap the blocks onto the dowels. Allow to dry the glue and stain the blocks to match the legs and desk. It will work, I've done it before when I was a school Custodian and we needed to raise a wooden teacher's desk for a tall teacher. Teacher thought we found a higher desk for him!😁

@Gary P posted:

Raise the desk! Cut 4 pieces wood to size of desk legs. Length, width, and height. Use a couple good size dowels in each leg. Drill into the desk legs bottom, measure and match to the extension blocks. Insert and glue dowels into the desk legs, and spread glue around on the desk legs then put glue into the extension blocks, tap the blocks onto the dowels. Allow to dry the glue and stain the blocks to match the legs and desk. It will work, I've done it before when I was a school Custodian and we needed to raise a wooden teacher's desk for a tall teacher. Teacher thought we found a higher desk for him!😁

Thank you!  I thought about putting something under the desk legs, but didn’t think about making it permanent.  It would be so much safer doing it the way you suggested.  That’s great that the teacher thought it was a higher desk!  😄

@Junior,

I tried to record the glowing effect numerous times with different settings on my iPhone 13 camera.  On the video you simply cannot see anything glowing, but the glowing/flickering effect is very perceptible to the eye.  I saw no reason to post the video since it looks just like the photo.

As I said, I used 2 flickering orange LEDs from Evans Designs.  I bought 3 and would have used them all, but I accidentally destroyed the third one.

@texgeekboy posted:

@Junior,

I tried to record the glowing effect numerous times with different settings on my iPhone 13 camera.  On the video you simply cannot see anything glowing, but the glowing/flickering effect is very perceptible to the eye.  I saw no reason to post the video since it looks just like the photo.

As I said, I used 2 flickering orange LEDs from Evans Designs.  I bought 3 and would have used them all, but I accidentally destroyed the third one.

@Junior I used the flickering fire kit from Evans for a burn barrel. It's a great addition to any scene.

Bob

@RSJB18,

How many LEDs did you have in there!

@texgeekboy posted:

@RSJB18,

How many LEDs did you have in there!

I used the Pico LED kit. It has 3 leds

https://evandesigns.com/produc...ariant=6762820796464

@RSJB18,

Hmmm, I hadn't noticed those types of LEDs.  I just ordered a set and will post an updated pic if it ends up looking as good as yours.

Thanks!

@texgeekboy posted:

@Junior,

I tried to record the glowing effect numerous times with different settings on my iPhone 13 camera.  On the video you simply cannot see anything glowing, but the glowing/flickering effect is very perceptible to the eye.  I saw no reason to post the video since it looks just like the photo.

As I said, I used 2 flickering orange LEDs from Evans Designs.  I bought 3 and would have used them all, but I accidentally destroyed the third one.

Thanks for trying @texgeekboy your efforts are appreciated.

@RSJB18…nice scene. Love the light “animation”. Makes for a slick realistic scene.

With my truck in the shop and therefore unable to get my Masonite, I turned to a side job.  This Atlas dbl track bridge was kinda of rough so some regluing & weathering is in order before it can take it’s intended place on the upcoming layout.  The last owner was sloppier with glue than even me !

Rich

The bridge looks great, Rich.  Mine was built by someone else, and he admitted he used the wrong type of glue.  I didn’t ask what he used since he gave me a great price, I just glued everything that was remotely loose before painting.

@Mark Boyce posted:

The bridge looks great, Rich.  Mine was built by someone else, and he admitted he used the wrong type of glue.  I didn’t ask what he used since he gave me a great price, I just glued everything that was remotely loose before painting.

Mark, btw, what glue do you recommend ?  I’m afraid all my glues are getting pretty old.

@trestleking posted:

Mark, btw, what glue do you recommend ?  I’m afraid all my glues are getting pretty old.

I used a super glue (CA) from the hardware store.  I don’t recall which brand.  If I buy a large tube/bottle, it gets old as well.

Williams 4-6-0, with a TAS TMCC upgrade (really - I had an "old" TAS kit around a few years ago). No cruise needed - these locos are geared well.

It came painted for the Southern, but the color was so wrong. I re-Southerned it with Krylon Hunter Green, basic paint-pen gold striping, and decals (some very old). Then I added a center headlight (old brass piece). I would show a photo of the prototype that I followed, but it's not my photo, so I can't.

These Wms Ten-Wheelers are pretty generic and can stand-in for a variety of small steam power, all over the country. The cab shows "Mobile" for the SOU Mobile Division (headquartered in Selma, oddly), which is correct for this loco.

(Looks like my water standpipe needs a little re-alignment....)

I think that the Hunter Green blends with the MTH SOU green cars pretty well.

@D500 posted:

Williams 4-6-0, with a TAS TMCC upgrade (really - I had an "old" TAS kit around a few years ago). No cruise needed - these locos are geared well.

It came painted for the Southern, but the color was so wrong. I re-Southerned it with Krylon Hunter Green, basic paint-pen gold striping, and decals (some very old). Then I added a center headlight (old brass piece). I would show a photo of the prototype that I followed, but it's not my photo, so I can't.

These Wms Ten-Wheelers are pretty generic and can stand-in for a variety of small steam power, all over the country. The cab shows "Mobile" for the SOU Mobile Division (headquartered in Selma, oddly), which is correct for this loco.

(Looks like my water standpipe needs a little re-alignment....)

I think that the Hunter Green blends with the MTH SOU green cars pretty well.

Nice work. I have a few Williams locos and they are well built and have adequate detailing. Wiring dual motor diesels in series only goes so far. I may try a Blunami upgrade on a couple of mine.

Bob

Not 3R, but fresh off the workbench. Still wrapping up the LED marker lights and have to mount the smoke unit, but so far so good.

I have started detailing my Mohawk project. Added the missing valve gear using Lionel L2a parts, plus linkages for the Baker reverse, a lubricator, coupler lift bar, cab deck plate and curtains. Test run by remote control while taking job applications for the crew. Now on to the piping.

Pete

I got the new trucks for my RS27 courtesy of @GGG. The shipping fiasco not withstanding (ups fault).

Thanks much George. Hopefully I can get the engine on the rails soon.

Bob

Just added the drumhead to my Frisco Firefly paint scheme Heavyweights.

N

Pittman motor installation in Weaver Dreyfuss Hudson.  Amazingly, the Pittman mounting holes matched the mounting ring for the original Mabuchi motor.  Brass not-quite-a-flywheel had to be bored out from 3.18 to 4.0 mm to accommodate the larger Pittman shaft.  As expected, its top speed is less than prototypical. due to the Weaver gear ratio and Pittman RPMs.  This is the first phase of a larger project, which will include upgrading to ERR motor control and Lionel Railsounds.  Fan-driven smoke won't be done this year, but may be added in the future.

Just finished adding LED Christmas lights to a Railking ES44AC. Went a little above and beyond the standard LED lighting used in the past:

Lots on the bench tonight. With the days so short now, I have more inside time to work on my stuff. The FA's are getting side frame work, the Weaver truck is getting some wheel work, the SF box is getting a broken stirrup fixed and the newly acquired MP box has zinc pest on a truck and needs some truck work. Looks like I have enough to keep my busy for a few days.

The parts came in yesterday for my previous repair projects and those were finished up last night. Next up is my Veranda. This thing has not been treated well. When I got it both sub-frames were warped and the loco wouldn't even negotiate an O-72 curve with out derailing. I got that fixed and found that both smoke units had zinc pest, a previous owner put the wrong screw in one of the center body mount holes and ran it up through the walkway, the two rear posts were broken off and not repaired properly and one of the light contacts in the front was broken and not repaired properly. I ordered some parts, but I forgot about some and need to order more to get this loco back up to spec. The wire harness was a mess and some of the wires were mashed between the frame and the shell. Luckily no real damage, so I got the zip ties out and dressed the harness up so it won't get pinched, chafed or bind up. Hopefully the parts will be in by the end of next week and I'll move on to the next project, probably my two unit "Big Blow" GTEL with a bad smoke unit in the B unit.

@Junior,

It hasn't been quite 2 weeks since I last posted the status of the flickering fire saga.  I got the Fire LEDs from Evans Designs as @RSJB18 suggested.  I had some troubles in getting them installed, so I had to do a second order.  Anyway, the order came in yesterday, so I went to my work area and with a clear head got them installed.  I installed 2 of the nano (not pico) fire leds, again with GRJs light module.  They worked very well, but they did take some adjusting for my preference.  I thought that the red LED was too dominant over the 2 yellow LEDs after installing them in my home made barrel.  I had to take a tooth pick and carefully tilt the red LEDs downward to minimize the light.  I can still see them in the flicker, but now at a level I like.

The flicker when looking at the video on my iPhone is way more visible than in the attached movie, and of course in real life it is very visible.

@texgeekboy….

The flickering “fire” looks great! I’m guessing you had to take the shell off of the frame to install everything. Did you also have to install “third rail” 😆 pickups or were you able to tie into an existing power source (I’m not to familiar with this car).

I gotta tell ya…fantastic job!👍

@texgeekboy posted:

@Junior,

It hasn't been quite 2 weeks since I last posted the status of the flickering fire saga.  I got the Fire LEDs from Evans Designs as @RSJB18 suggested.  I had some troubles in getting them installed, so I had to do a second order.  Anyway, the order came in yesterday, so I went to my work area and with a clear head got them installed.  I installed 2 of the nano (not pico) fire leds, again with GRJs light module.  They worked very well, but they did take some adjusting for my preference.  I thought that the red LED was too dominant over the 2 yellow LEDs after installing them in my home made barrel.  I had to take a tooth pick and carefully tilt the red LEDs downward to minimize the light.  I can still see them in the flicker, but now at a level I like.

The flicker when looking at the video on my iPhone is way more visible than in the attached movie, and of course in real life it is very visible.

Oh...did I forget to mention that the wires on these kits are about as fragile as you can get.......

I did two kits also. Had the first one all set and I broke the wire to one of the LED's on "final assembly".

The end result was worth the effort. The barrel looks great!

Bob