@speed3 what did you use to darken the driver rims, and how did you do it? That's something that really bothers me about pre-2003 MTH. NOT looking for a full weathering job but if this mod isn't too difficult I would consider it. Thanks!
@Ted S posted:@speed3 what did you use to darken the driver rims, and how did you do it? That's something that really bothers me about pre-2003 MTH. NOT looking for a full weathering job but if this mod isn't too difficult I would consider it. Thanks!
I used Abaddon Black acrylic paint from Games Workshop to darken the rims and handrails. It’s marketed as a “base” layer so you should only need a couple of coats. I put the engine on its side and powered it with a spare transformer so the wheels could turn while I applied the paint to the rims. You can use the paint straight from the bottle, but I found that dipping the brush in some water before loading up with paint helped achieve a better consistency. The rims alone took about 15 minutes to paint. I feel the same way about shiny rims and handrails on older MTH, so most of my PS1 steam engines get this treatment. It’s super easy and elevates the overall appearance, in my opinion.
What size brush? And how did you avoid getting excess paint on the wheel "treads" (surfaces that contact the rail)? Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to screw up locos that I paid several hundred dollars for, even though they aren't worth anywhere near that now.
This afternoon there are 3 Southern cabs awaiting end platforms, 2 GM&O xM&O cabs just glued together, 2 M&StL awaiting decals, 1 DT&I and a Mississippi Central model of a home built caboose. The MS central will have steel casement windows that were used in homes in the 50’s.
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@Ted S posted:What size brush? And how did you avoid getting excess paint on the wheel "treads" (surfaces that contact the rail)? Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to screw up locos that I paid several hundred dollars for, even though they aren't worth anywhere near that now.
I used a size 0 angular flat brush. The paint is water based, so any that ended up on the treads or wheel faces was wiped off with a damp cotton swab. Since the paint cleans up so easily, you shouldn’t come close to permanently messing up your locos.
I'm back to working on the 211 Texas Special. I'm trying to make a "frame box" part no. 202-54 (if I remember correctly.) I had been so busy with everything else that I hadn't even noticed it was missing. It would be so much easier to order one than to make one from scratch, but without a credit card or PayPal, you have to work with what you've got.
@Ted S posted:What size brush? And how did you avoid getting excess paint on the wheel "treads" (surfaces that contact the rail)? Sorry for all the questions but I don't want to screw up locos that I paid several hundred dollars for, even though they aren't worth anywhere near that now.
Another option is gun blue/chemical blackener. Thats what I use. Same technique. Place the engine upside down in a cradle. Attach clip leads and hold a swab next to the rims. Takes about twenty seconds. You can use paint too. Pretty hard the do damage either way. Have some thinner handy if the paint doesn't go where you want.
Pete
I paint diesel wheels while the unit is running also. I use a q-tip moistened with lacquer thinner to clean the oils off and a small brush to apply the paint. Works well.
@Norton posted:Another option is gun blue/chemical blackener. Thats what I use. Same technique. Place the engine upside down in a cradle. Attach clip leads and hold a swab next to the rims. Takes about twenty seconds. You can use paint too. Pretty hard the do damage either way. Have some thinner handy if the paint doesn't go where you want.
Pete
I’m with Pete on this one....much more permanent to chemically alter the metal than to paint....too many good reliable products on the market today not to take advantage of....in the long run, this is a better end product, permanent, and probably equal to or even cheaper than painting....both of these chassis are PS1 ESE’s with silver painted drivers and chrome tires....yuk!....bottom chassis has the silver paint stripped off with aircraft stripper, then dunked in Caswell Black oxide solution.....simply following their instructions......
Pat
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I made a frame box/fuel tank for the 211 Texas Special today. I'm not completely happy with it, but until I can find a used original part (202-54), this one will have to do.
Have the light green done on two LIONEL 15" offset dome cars; next is the dark green for the Lowey livery of the Norther Pacific North Coast Limited.
Snapshot of the two hanging in my drying booth; and, the "shooting gallery."
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Working on 3 different 675 Lionel locomotives I picked up last year for next to nothing at our TTOS Southern Pacific Division meet auction. One tender whistle was not working and got that going. All 3 675 engines are not smoking so that is next. Broken trailing truck and missing smoke unit installed but not yet wired. I have some details and trim parts to finish. I need to find a stamp to re number one of them since someone removed the cab numbers previously. They will not be perfect but they will be great runners.
Fried the motor in this guy last Friday at the club...
It had been running for a while, and at some point I realized it had been too long since it had gone around... found it barely crawling along, and it was pretty hot... was hoping it would be fine after it cooled off, but nope... you can see the windings on one pole are black... Atlas’ website says they actually have the motor in stock for this!
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Working on a damaged TMCC crane
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@Alex M posted:Working on a damaged TMCC crane
Alex, it's quite possible you can simply pull the pins from the one crane mechanism and put them in the shells for the other. They look to be both JST-EH connector types. The gears, OTOH, look like you'll have to restring those.
@Alex M posted:Hello all,
Haven’t posted in a while , just wanted to say hello and figured I’d show you what’s currently being worked on.
LET'S SEE WHAT'S ON YOUR'S !
Thanks, Alex
Too funny, I saw this post and the video and knew it was a CC II Niagara.
I have two to do on my workbench as well.
What do you use to trim the new drive shafts?
@evanchsa posted:Too funny, I saw this post and the video and knew it was a CC II Niagara.
I have two to do on my workbench as well.
What do you use to trim the new drive shafts?
I use to file them down with a 6 inch sanding wheel. Now I send a bunch of them to Pete (Norton) and he cuts them down to size with his Metal lathe.
Alex
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Alex, it's quite possible you can simply pull the pins from the one crane mechanism and put them in the shells for the other. They look to be both JST-EH connector types. The gears, OTOH, look like you'll have to restring those.
Exactly what I did , still a lot of work lol
No doubt it was a lot of work Alex! I had to restring one of those, that's all it took for me to avoid them! 
@Alex M posted:I use to file them down with a 6 inch sanding wheel. Now I send a bunch of them to Pete (Norton) and he cuts them down to size with his Metal lathe.
Alex
Good to know I wasn't the only one filing them down by hand.
My lathe may arrive before I do the other Niagara.
This post inspired me to fix the one sitting on my workbench last night.
It was much easier than I thought; the second will be a breeze.
The gears were really chewed up:
I used the brass gears from Lionel but I also have the delrin gears from NWSL.
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@RickO posted:I had to go pour myself a drink after seeing that video Alex LOL! Good luck with the repair.
I'd like to see a video of your success when its complete.
Hi Rick
its actually complete , I’ll post a video later on
Alex
I didn’t like the universal joint coupling system in those CC Niagara’s for one second....this locomotive is just such a **** poorly engineered toilet, I took a whole different approach, I divorced the motor from the gear box altogether, then modded the gear box to be self standing with a floating spring design, this way, I could use a dog bone and coupler set up....took all the stress out of the driveline, and allowed the gearbox to float around and do it’s thing....this is just my solution, Alex & Pete have their own fixes as well.....Pat
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I have 2 projects in process. The first is my scratch-built, free-lanced Union station.
The second is my custom painted and decaled Pennsylvania-Reading Seashore Lines coaches for 0-31 curves.
Both projects are on temporary hold while I care for my elderly uncle, a train enthusiast also, who is preparing for his 3rd major cancer removal surgery in two years to take place this coming Thursday.
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@Randy Harrison posted:I have 2 projects in process. The first is my scratch-built, free-lanced Union station.
The second is my custom painted and decaled Pennsylvania-Reading Seashore Lines coaches for 0-31 curves.
Both projects are on temporary hold while I care for my elderly uncle, a train enthusiast also, who is preparing for his 3rd major cancer removal surgery in two years to take place this coming Thursday.
Very nice, Randy, particularly your Union Station.
Arnold: Thanks for the kind words. If you are interested in a step-by-step progress report, click on https://ogrforum.com/...ess-update-1-29-2020 I have not had time to work on it lately due to my family obligations, but, it is still an active project.
Hi Rick
Here’s the video of the crane in action. Had to cut the sound out , because I mentioned the customers name. Figured he would want to remain Anonymous.
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@harmonyards posted:I didn’t like the universal joint coupling system in those CC Niagara’s for one second....this locomotive is just such a **** poorly engineered toilet, I took a whole different approach, I divorced the motor from the gear box altogether, then modded the gear box to be self standing with a floating spring design, this way, I could use a dog bone and coupler set up....took all the stress out of the driveline, and allowed the gearbox to float around and do it’s thing....this is just my solution, Alex & Pete have their own fixes as well.....Pat
I knew that Niagara was going to the right guy! 
@harmonyards posted:I didn’t like the universal joint coupling system in those CC Niagara’s for one second....this locomotive is just such a **** poorly engineered toilet, I took a whole different approach, I divorced the motor from the gear box altogether, then modded the gear box to be self standing with a floating spring design, this way, I could use a dog bone and coupler set up....took all the stress out of the driveline, and allowed the gearbox to float around and do it’s thing....this is just my solution, Alex & Pete have their own fixes as well.....Pat
Just swap a MTH Niagara chassis under it and be done. You know that's the best option. It's a better chassis from the start. I think you can do it 
.
@Steaming Jon posted:Fried the motor in this guy last Friday at the club...
It had been running for a while, and at some point I realized it had been too long since it had gone around... found it barely crawling along, and it was pretty hot... was hoping it would be fine after it cooled off, but nope... you can see the windings on one pole are black... Atlas’ website says they actually have the motor in stock for this!
Got this one back on the rails! Hardest part was swapping the worm gear on to the new motor...
@Steaming Jon posted:Got this one back on the rails! Hardest part was swapping the worm gear on to the new motor...
How’d you do it??.....please share!..
Pat
In the first part of this video is a Lionel 6-18071 S.P. Daylight. It is my first and only Timko motor conversion. It along with ERR Cruise Commander runs like a dream. On my workbench in the end of the video is a Lionel 6-18045 Commodore Vanderbilt. I sent off the motor to Timko and now awaiting for another ERR Cruise Commander to arrive.
@harmonyards posted:How’d you do it??.....please share!..
Pat
Ok, let’s see if I can put it into words... motor removal requires removing the boiler shell from the chassis, then removing the lower cover from the frame followed by removing the drivers. The motor bracket is then unscrewed from the frame (the screws are behind the rear drivers). The motor then unscrews from the bracket, and the hole is big enough that the worm gear fits thru...
The worm gear is very securely pressed on to the motor shaft. There’s probably an appropriate puller, but I don’t have one... I used some pliers, a hammer, and a tiny screwdriver to drive the shaft out of the gear. Not pretty, but it worked... I used a c-clamp to press the gear onto the new motor. I made extra sure the other end of the c-clamp was only touching the other end of the motor shaft to avoid damage, and I carefully pressed the gear on a tiny bit at a time...
Reassembly is basically the reverse of disassembly. I found it easier to remove the side rods before reinstalling the drivers because it’s a bit fiddly to get the drivers in sync with each other due to the idler gear between the drivers...
Hope that helps!
Currently on the workbench
of course all wiring will be trimmed to proper size , soldered, heat shrink , and wire tied
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I haven't even started on that ATSF Texas project and picked this up, a Premier UP FEF. My first non ATSF or SP locomotive, but it's a western road so it's ok. Little paint work, a PS3 kit, and a motor and it should be a runner. So now I've got 2 locomotives to work on when the weather cools off. That should keep me busy/out of trouble.
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Finished the last K-Line ALCO FA AA upgrade. MOPAC Eagle AA. Added two power trucks to the trailing A with a tether to the leading A. Now four powered trucks for the pull. And a Williams ALCO soundboard. I'll post pics tomorrow.
Two projects going on. The first is applying new K4 decals to a Legacy GP7. *Mucho striping*. Of the 2 variations SL-SF had for black and yellow geeps, this one is the more difficult...I have another GP7 to strip and redo later, but it will not be this scheme. I find one to be sufficient.
Next is a reproduction of an actual QA&P tank car (unlike the 2 fantasy tank cars I did last year). I am working from two poor quality photos scanned from two different QA&P books. Among the duties this car performed were providing water for the bridge gang cars, and hauling fresh water to the Coca-Cola bottling plant in Paducah, TX.
I have not yet printed the decals for this project as I am still monkeying around with some cushion car graphics (another 2 car fantasy project). The artwork for the tank car is finished as seen at the bottom of this photo:
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My workbench is overloaded and cluttered.
Model boat slow build process.
This is a spinoff of a previously posted buildup in this forum, using Plasticville Hospital parts. It is in crude shape needing a good weathering coat to cover lots of blemishes. Also need to add light system.
This is my first attempt to motorize a dual blade helicopter. The first installed motor/blades works. The second blade got destroyed in the process and waiting parts from Atlantis-models. Helicopter is an Army Mule 1/48 scale model from Atlantis-models.
My attempt at “Move the crane not the train”. Having difficulty mating motor shaft to ¼” rod. Still working on solution
Sinclair Gas station and truck. Need to finish interior windows of building. Old Plasticville gas station repainted. Atlantic-models 1/48 scale Sinclair gas truck model.
040 Switcher engine #1615 needs front headlight added and a few other minor parts. Engine runs great.
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@James McGehee Jr. posted:My attempt at “Move the crane not the train”. Having difficulty mating motor shaft to ¼” rod. Still working on solution
I'd use a cable and pulleys at each end of the track. Under the table have a gear motor with a spool to slowly move the crane along the rail.
These two Scale-Craft K4 chassis were tested just this morning after looking over several locos. Early version with center axle drive and a later one with the rear axle drive. Turns out the later one is rough due to lack of stack up on the motor install.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42iGFNvshK8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzkFM-Pjv2Q
Also one of my Scale craft Mikado from a few years back.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xX00w9e81FI
Neither of the K4's was insulated for two rail and I think they will stay that way.
Wow Dennis, pretty amazing!! What's the gear ratio on these, have you ever measured it? I noticed the middle driver is blind (unflanged). Will they run on 3-rail track?
Thanks to Gunrunner john for his suggestion on my Moving the crane not the train project.
@Ted S posted:Wow Dennis, pretty amazing!! What's the gear ratio on these, have you ever measured it? I noticed the middle driver is blind (unflanged). Will they run on 3-rail track?
The k4 and I think Hudson could have come with blind drivers but you find them both ways. They could run on Gargraves pretty easy but the smallish flanges would make it hard on tubular radius aside. Not sure on the gear ratio, the catalog states 16:1 but not sure if sll mine reflect that.
Did some engine maintenance today. Put a battery in my Lionel D&H RS-11, wired a WbB GP-9 in series to slow it down. I was going to do my WbB Center cab but when I opened it I found that it only has one motor. Need to build a diode string for that one.
Freshened up the lubrication on all three too.
Bob
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I recently bought an Atlas SD-35 on that auction site. Good price and I expected some problems. First problem was the gearbox in one truck was bone dry and the worm wheel on the idle shaft as well as the worm was totaled. Luck would have it that I had an identical chassis with motors also from that auction site which I purchased with several other such chassis for parts about five years ago. So I had all the mechanical parts to repair the new SD-35. Another problem that I intended to address was something I have had to repair on several other locos which had plugs on each end of the motherboard where the chassis ground and the center rail connected. When these locos jump the track you can get a short running through the traces on the motherboard which quickly burns through the trace. This can burn either center rail or outside rail traces. The outside rail traces are not as likely to short out as the center rail however on many locos the trucks are electrically isolated from the metal chassis/frame so the short runs through the motherboard rather than the chassis. I have added PTC polyfuses to these locos to protect the traces on the motherboard. The photo was made after adding a center rail buss between the pickup rollers and the PTC polyfuse on that buss but before adding the buss for the outer rail conductors. The wire is superflex silicone and can get very hot without melting the insulation. The connections to each end of the motherboard connect to the same place on the buss so the potential to each connection on the MB stays the same should one of the trucks derail and it's pickup roller gets grounded. I did the same mod to the connections to the truck frames also. I do have a question about why the trucks are insulated from the loco chassis/frame. Does this improve the signal to the R2LC ? On some of my early pullmor TMCC conversions I made a ground strap from the trucks to the frame trying to suppress any arcing between the trucks and the frame. I am guessing that is the purpose here but seems it is much more complicated way to accomplish the same thing while making the trace on the MB more likely to get fried. j
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@JohnActon, ...nice John, .....good work....I like your cribbing system...cheap and effective.....
Pat
@Dennis Holler posted:These two Scale-Craft K4 chassis were tested just this morning after looking over several locos. Early version with center axle drive
That is a smooooth runner. Very nice.
@harmonyards posted:.I like your cribbing system...cheap and effective.....
Pat
The best thing about it. No one wants to borrow it. Didn't have any O scale concrete blocks. j
Re-detailing a Lionel Legacy 2-8-2 into an Erie N-2 USRA Mikado.
I relocated the dynamo to the back of the boiler and added some steps. Then added some conduit and airlines to the area behind the bell.
Finally stripped the W&LE lettering and numbers, getting ready for decals and weathering...
Tom
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Finished up my C&O Yellow Belly. With the ERR Cruise Commander and Timko's motor this is one smooth runner now.
Got the tender for the ATSF Texas project done. The large "Santa Fe" is factory Lionel lettering. I changed the numbers with decals and clear coated everything. I also repainted the MTH trucks and tool boxes black from blue. I'm working on finishing up the locomotive.
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Moving along on the Premier 5011 to 5001 class Texas project. Just waiting on a friend to make the correct flip stack out of brass stock and me to make number board inserts. Then it's cosmetically done. I'll just need to install electronics and wire it at that point.
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@Lou1985 your friend must be some sort of slack *** .....we’ve been waiting to see that stack since the last update.....what gives??...🙃
Pat
@harmonyards posted:@Lou1985 your friend must be some sort of slack *** .....we’ve been waiting to see that stack since the last update.....what gives??...🙃
Pat
Yeah guy works slow. Takes his time. Probably has more profitable things to do .
@Lou1985 posted:Yeah guy works slow. Takes his time. Probably has more profitable things to do
Nah, ...I heard he’s a slacker,....I’d fire him if I was you....probably sittin drinking coffee, trolling the forum....the loser...
Pat
@harmonyards posted:Nah, ...I heard he’s a slacker,....I’d fire him if I was you....probably sittin drinking coffee, trolling the forum....the loser...
Pat
Guy needs to get back to work.
Transplanted a lionchief board from a small switcher into a single motor RS3. Added a 9.6 volt battery to make this a deadrail loco. Results not as planned. It works but barely. Now to troubleshoot, bad motor, bad lionchief board, insufficient power.
After many months away, I have finally gotten back to my 2/3 finished, scratch-built Union Station. I installed lighting yesterday and ordered the Miller Engineering "Union Station" sign today. There is still much to do, but, I now have a bit of time to devote to the project again.
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I'm working on some coal and ore loads,and I will also be repairing a K Line PRR caboose that took a dive from the shelf layout.
@necrails posted:Transplanted a lionchief board from a small switcher into a single motor RS3. Added a 9.6 volt battery to make this a deadrail loco. Results not as planned. It works but barely. Now to troubleshoot, bad motor, bad lionchief board, insufficient power.
I don't own any Lionchief locos but don't they run off 18vac track power ? I would guess 9.6vdc will not get the job done. j
@JohnActon posted:I don't own any Lionchief locos but don't they run off 18vac track power ? I would guess 9.6vdc will not get the job done. j
They run on either AC or DC(not both together) but I don't know if 9.6 volts is enough.
LC will run on 9.6V DC, but the smoke and for LC+, the couplers will not function. I did a Camelback and started with a 9.6V battery pack. The result was it ran OK, but it didn't have a great top-end speed. That was not a problem, but the lack of smoke and electrocouplers was, so I put two battery packs in.
LC+ Camelback Upgrade to Battery Power
This is before I start the day, not too messy...yet
Making lights, many more to go
Printing Remote Holders
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Nothing major- I re-wired a Williams Shark in series over the weekend. I've done several Williams engines, this was the first one with the wiring soldered to the board. All the others must be newer and have plugs for the motor wiring. The newer one's have tru-blast horns too so that must be why the boards are different.
Bob
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Back in August we had a thread "What should be the relationship between a worm and a worm gear ? " As is common the original post, about gear lash and depth of tooth engagement, started to wander and ended up about ratios. It prompted me to dig out four Williams Samhongsa built locos a PRR L1s Mikado, PRR B6 0-6-0, N&W "J" and a Jersey Central 4-6-0 Camelback. Also built by Sam. a Weaver PRR M1a Mountain. I found some things which some may find interesting. All the Locos have basically the same gearbox but the final drive ratios were either 21:1 or 42:1. The difference between the two was that the 21:1 box uses a double helix worm and the 42:1 uses a single helix. The worm as well as the worm wheel with skewed teeth were the only differences between the two gearboxes. One thing I found ironic was that the two locos which one would consider mainline high speed passenger or fast freight locos, N&W J and PRR M1a had the 42:1 gearbox and the locos which would be considered plodders for freight and commuter passenger service had the 21:1 gearbox which would give them a much higher top speed. It is one of those things which make you scratch your head. One can imagine the guys in MD. and PA. on the phone requesting a "HIGH SPEED " gearbox in the J and the M1a and the guys in Korea listening through a translator hear " HIGH RATIO" I think the same problem exist when oval track racers talk to dragster guys. Well thankfully the two gearboxes are easily swapped. So I pulled the 42:1 boxes out of the J and the M1a and swapped them for the 21:1 boxes on the PRR B6 and L1s Mikado. So while off the locos I decided to open the clam-shells and take a took inside and found one more surprise. I had bought all five of these locos from different sellers over several years. However the worm wheels in the J and the L1s were the wrong worm wheel. The worm wheel from the 42:1 gearbox out of the N&W J should have been in the 21:1 out of the PRR L1s and the worm wheel from the L1s should have been in the gearbox from the N&W J. I had been very careful when disassembling to keep parts from the two locos on two separate tables while removing them from the loco pulling apart and cleaning. I used a red and green marker to mark all the parts before I made the photos. It was not till I was setting up the first photo that I noticed the problem with the worm wheels. The Skew angle on the teeth of the worm wheel was wrong for the worm in their respective gearbox. However it did not seem to affect performance in any meaningful way. They may have run louder than the locos which had the correct worm wheels but with the loud Mabuchi 550 motors who could tell. Never mind that the Samhongsa gearbox is no where near a precision device. When I got to swapping the boxes in the Weaver M1a Mountain and the Williams PRR B6 both locos had all the correct parts. Well, they did have that 550 Mabuchi. After test running all four locos involved in the swap I was happy with all but the L1s Mikado. Remember it was one of the locos which ended up with the 42:1 gearing and the Mabuchi 545 which I installed in place of the 550 just did not turn fast enough to achieve the 40smph I was hoping for. I had two likely candidates for motors a Maxon coreless and a Mabuchi. I was hoping to use the Maxon but could not install a flywheel on it but may at some point try again. I want to use a tach reader for cruise and I did not have a drill bit that matched the shaft diameter to drill a brass rod for a step-up spacer to mount the flywheel. I was able to make a spacer for the 385 Mabuchi shaft to allow mounting a MTH flywheel off a Pittman. It took four tries to make a spacer that is concentric but the flywheel is on and running true. it is much heavier than a typical flywheel for a 385 motor and will coast over three feet when cutting power at 12v The 385 Mabuchi I used is good for 12,500 rpm about 55smph at 12v and is faster than I actually wanted it has a static resistance of 2 ohms so stall current at 12v will be 6A ,just fine for most TMCC motor driver boards. If you look at the photos you will see that I mounted the 385 in a magnetic shield from a Mabuchi 550 motor I lined the shield with 1/8" thick foam tape so that the motor floats in the foam not touching any metal and I lined the firebox with more of this foam tape. When the body is on you cannot hear the motor but you can hear the gearbox. I had been planning on selling this loco but was so happy after installing the 385 that I decided to keep it and set about dressing it up with a few details. These Williams brass locos left the factory rather naked and I always hated the big gap between the rear truck and the frame and all the detail they left out. I almost forgot in my attempt to isolate the frame and boiler from any motor vibration I used thick wall silicone tubing between the flywheel and the gearbox which worked well at low to medium speeds but when running flat out the tubing would stretch in the middle and cause a low frequency vibration that the foam suspension could not filter out. I inserted a piece of 1/8" brass tube inside the tubing and the problem went away. So far I have about a third of the plumbing that I plan to install and nearing start to the right side of the loco. I just added the photos and I'm sorry if I got some out of order. I got tired of writing and did not give an explanation of everything though I think that most are self explanatory but I don't mind answering questions. j
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For Me, rebuilding a Lionel UP GP7 6-28567. Complete basket case. Started with a stripped chassis. Now I'm waiting on 3 screws to power it up.
At the PRND&L, we are forced to do most of our painting outside – which means when the weather is nice. Once we get to late fall and winter, it's time to letter the rolling stock waiting for finishing touches.
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For those who had read my screed on gearboxes and the mods to my Williams PRR L1s I have added photos of the process. j
@JohnActon posted:For those who had read my screed on gearboxes and the mods to my Williams PRR L1s I have added photos of the process. j
John, ....I like what I see!...love the added details!...great work!,......I do believe that’s the first I’ve seen of your work.....at some point in time, I’d like to see some of your diecast repowers you’ve done like that Hudson you mentioned that I think you said resides at your brother’s house???.....love to do some head to head comparisons on a level playing field, ......however, a Williams chassis just ain’t it...but you did do a great job taming the beast, and the external upgrades, I really like!...
BTW, have you heard from TedS lately?....I haven’t seen him reply lately.....some of us would like to know that at least he’s ok!...
Pat
@harmonyards posted:John, ....I like what I see!...love the added details!...great work!,......I do believe that’s the first I’ve seen of your work.....at some point in time, I’d like to see some of your diecast repowers you’ve done like that Hudson you mentioned that I think you said resides at your brother’s house???.....love to do some head to head comparisons on a level playing field, ......however, a Williams chassis just ain’t it...but you did do a great job taming the beast, and the external upgrades, I really like!...
BTW, have you heard from TedS lately?....I haven’t seen him reply lately.....some of us would like to know that at least he’s ok!...
Pat
Pat, you mention Ted I was thinking about him last night when I went back to read what had transpired on that first discussion on the 42:1 Samhongsa gearbox. Just looked and his last post to the forum was 9/28. Hay Ted, how you doing ?
I've already spent more time on that L1s than it is worth so I guess it's too late to sell it. When I finish the plumbing It may end up over at my brothers house. Funny I can't remember him ever buying a train and he has a pretty impressive collection. After a divorce in 85 I stored my layout in his basement and eventually we pulled it apart and built an around the wall layout. Seems like I go over there and end up repairing things rather than running trains. I bought a MTH UP Veranda loco on eBay last week that just arrived. It suffered some damage in shipping. I have to make pix and contact the seller. j
John,
Never ever thought about adding the sound deadening to the loco. Great idea!
Ron H
Well that Premier FEF I got a couple months ago is fully functional. It came to me with no worm shaft, motor mount, motor, flywheel, or wiring. I added all the missing parts, upgraded the motor to a ball bearing 9234 Pittman, and added a PS3 steam kit. I modified the sound file with the whistle from the just released Premier Big Boy. Came out pretty nice.
@Lou1985 posted:Well that Premier FEF I got a couple months ago is fully functional. It came to me with no worm shaft, motor mount, motor, flywheel, or wiring. I added all the missing parts, upgraded the motor to a ball bearing 9234 Pittman, and added a PS3 steam kit. I modified the sound file with the whistle from the just released Premier Big Boy. Came out pretty nice.
Love it!!!
George
@Ron H posted:John,
Never ever thought about adding the sound deadening to the loco. Great idea!
Ron H
Ron the most effective sound deadening change was getting rid of the 550 motor Though the foam tape certainly does not hurt. With that 42:1 gearbox you really don't need the torque of the larger motor the 385 is more than enough. There is a 395 Mabuchi that turns at 12k and though I don't need it they are cheap enough and easy to swap I may buy a couple just to give it a try. j
bought this second hand and got what i thought was a fairly good deal. It was so dirty that i had to remove the shell and wash it to remove the caked-on dirt/dust. after a bit of a service and cleaning it runs great
Since I just had a addition added for my trains and have moved everything out of storage I'm pulling each engine, cleaning and oiling it and then running them on the oval I have set up for testing.
Frank
Got this thing running. Came with no boards, minimal wiring, no motor, and no driveshaft. The only wiring in the locomotive were the 10 pin connectors on each end of the wireless drawbar. I ended up combining a spare PS2 3V harness from a Railking 2-8-0 with what was left of the Yellowstone harness. It was a bit of a PITA, and took awhile, but it works. I installed a ball bearing 9434 Pittman in the locomotive and a PS32 board in the tender. It runs well and is massive. It's larger than my Premier AC6 Cab Forward and has less than 1/4" clearance in several spots around my layout. So no more articulateds for me....
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Good job. No motor, etc.... to intimidating for me!!!
That feeling you get when you realize the PS2 5 volt board on your GG1 isn’t toast. Instead it was the switch that got inadvertently set to Pantograph instead of Track. Phew! 😄
All the Locos have basically the same gearbox but the final drive ratios were either 21:1 or 42:1. The difference between the two was that the 21:1 box uses a double helix worm and the 42:1 uses a single helix. j
Would it be possible to change out the worm in the Williams Challenger then? Is that why it's so slow and so loud?
anything available like this?
@Engineer-Joe posted:Would it be possible to change out the worm in the Williams Challenger then? Is that why it's so slow and so loud?
anything available like this?
Joe yes you can change the worm but the helical idle gear should be changed with it. However I had two locos with a mismatched worm wheel and they ran OK. A month or two back I posted a message that I had found a former engineer with Samhongsa in Korea who told me he could arrange for a short run of those gearbox parts but I would need to order 25-50 of them and likely mail one of the worms I wanted reproduced to him. I was hoping you would see the post but management at O gauge forum took my message down for what ever reason. Regardless I don't think I could get 25 orders in the first place so I did not pursue the issue. I don't know if the gear set you link to would work. The worm looks like a single helix to me. A double helix is the key to the 21:1 ratio. Joe you know what would be cool ? If you could install two 385 or even 395 motors in your loco. A motor for the front and another for the rear set of drivers on your Challenger. I think another problem you had was an eccentric "out of round" flywheel. Which is all too common on the Samhongsa locos. I have had to struggle with that flywheel problem. I turned to MTH flywheels with a spacer bushing between the flywheel and the motor shaft and their hard to make. I had to make one and it took me three tries to get an acceptable concentric one. Something I considered was a Mabuchi 385 motor from a diesel with a flywheel already on it. Just pull the worm off. That's a bit of fun also. It's a sunny day outside, think I'll go work on the Veranda. j
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My flywheel wasn't perfect. At the suggestion of a post here, I removed it and used a piece of tubing to run the engine without the flywheel. It still sounded horrible at higher speeds. It only sounds good below 20MPH. So I abandoned the engine. It sits on a shelf now without a control board inside. I put that inside an Allegheny that had a blown board set.
Our grandson said it was his favorite engine and he always wanted to see it run. He likes the grey Challengers from UP. I have one in one gauge and he always wants to run it. All this prompts me to get it running again someday. I should buy a MTH version but I decided no more!
I have several engines on the shelf waiting for work and attention. I have more engines than I can run in a decent amount of sessions.
Thank you again and I hope someday to get a worm set to fix it!!!
I wonder if NWSL had any fixes?
If it were possible, I'd buy the balance of the gear to make the order move forward. I don't know how much that would cost?
@Engineer-Joe posted:My flywheel wasn't perfect. At the suggestion of a post here, I removed it and used a piece of tubing to run the engine without the flywheel. It still sounded horrible at higher speeds. It only sounds good below 20MPH. So I abandoned the engine. It sits on a shelf now without a control board inside. I put that inside an Allegheny that had a blown board set.
Our grandson said it was his favorite engine and he always wanted to see it run. He likes the grey Challengers from UP. I have one in one gauge and he always wants to run it. All this prompts me to get it running again someday. I should buy a MTH version but I decided no more!
I have several engines on the shelf waiting for work and attention. I have more engines than I can run in a decent amount of sessions.
Thank you again and I hope someday to get a worm set to fix it!!!
I wonder if NWSL had any fixes?
One of these days Joe we’re gonna cure that thing’s ailments and make a fine model out of it....I know we tried the motor route, and failed, so at some point we need to get into those gear boxes,.....does that Williams have captured axles, or can the geared axle sets drop out the bottom?......to be sure there’s got to be some NWSL gear boxes somewheres!.....even if I’ve got to machine the one end of one the worms for a coupler system between the two,......we just need a way to tame the beast,.....
Pat
I don't know much about the guts of it. I glanced but didn't know what to do. Now thinking about it, it would need two gear boxes reworked?
Having dual motors would be great.
@Engineer-Joe posted:I don't know much about the guts of it. I glanced but didn't know what to do. Now thinking about it, it would need two gear boxes reworked?
Having dual motors would be great.
That’s not happening Joe, ....but when we can get some real gear ratios, then you can put in a monster motor that’ll do the deed,....and get away from the 10,000 RPM + Cessna motor in there now,....that model needs to be down around 18-20 to 1, and then she’ll play nicely with your grandson,....I’m still curious if that thing has captured axles, or if it’s got bearings and caps ..one tell-tale if it has a spring loaded suspension system, ie; the drivers are free to float about, ....then this becomes a much easier task sans finding the parts,.....drop out axle sets means we can work on setting up the gearboxes while not having to handle the chassis so much,...
Pat
I'll go look again!
It appears each axle is held in by the bottom cover?
it looks like each axle bearing has a flat surface that rides on that cover? I have to look closer to see if all that's correct.
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@Engineer-Joe posted:I'll go look again!
I’ll reply to this one so I’m not dragging pictures all up and down the thread,....that’s got a bottom plate, that just made the job a whole lot easier,.....those geared axle sets will come out the bottom, and can be serviced on the bench,.....all we need now is a couple gear boxes in a much more reasonable ratio,.....even if they’re singles, no worries, ....to be sure I can figure out how to machine a stub shaft out the end of one of them, then we’ll borrow parts from the RC guys, they have 4mm telescoping universal joint drive shafts in a dizzying array of lengths, ......this is a doable project, ....just got to find gear boxes,......compounds would be best, so you don’t see the drive shaft sitting just above chassis height....
I thought after the motor tobago you’d parked that thing, .....I’m glad you’ve revived it,....I don’t like quitting,....😉
Pat
I looked anyways and here's one cover off for now.
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@Engineer-Joe posted:I looked anyways and here's one cover off for now.
Yep, ...those axle sets will drop out the bottom once the gear box bottom covers are removed,....I wouldn’t take a thing apart until you source a pair of gear boxes, ....that’s going g to be the hardest part,.....NWSL would have been the answer, buuuuut,.....so they’ll have to be scrounge sourced,.....the good thing about drop out axle sets like I mentioned, now we’ll have way less a chance disturbing delicate parts on those chassis halves since all we need to do is surgically get in there and remove just those two geared axles.....and it’s hard to exactly tell, but it even looks like we wouldn’t disturb any linkage and rods, as the eccentrics aren’t on the geared sets as well,.....I like surgical strikes,....pinpoint work, get out before damage can occur ,.....😉
Pat
Here’s what I’m currently working on
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