WHAT’S ON THE WORKBENCH AT THE MOMENT

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Mike I used Sherman-Williams “cloudless” and I’m very happy with the results.

My granddaughter adding clouds to the cloudless blue paint.

Jay

Always good to have an artist in the layout area Jay.

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Mike I used Sherman-Williams “cloudless” and I’m very happy with the results.

My granddaughter adding clouds to the cloudless blue paint.

Jay

Jay that's looking great! I think I see a mountain drawn out in the corner also!  I hope you will post more photos of your layout as you get them!

Checked the sticky electro-coupler on my BEEP. After a couple drops of oil, and a few days to soak, it works fine. I also think there was a burr on the cast knuckle piece which is gone now.

Glad I dont have to replace it.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Checked the sticky electro-coupler on my BEEP. After a couple drops of oil, and a few days to soak, it works fine. I also think there was a burr on the cast knuckle piece which is gone now.

Glad I dont have to replace it.

Bob

Bob, that is great news! Now that is something I could do! LOL Really don't worry if I ever take a shell off you will be contacted!

@mike g. posted:

Jay that's looking great! I think I see a mountain drawn out in the corner also!  I hope you will post more photos of your layout as you get them!

I had hoped that she would paint the wall for a backdrop; she has that level of talent. However, it was not to be. But we do have a mountain made of left over foam board from our construction project.

@RSJB18 posted:

I'm planning on using this chassis with different shells so I wanted to keep the board on the chassis. The shell is basically done, I just need to finish the harnesses. I put the speaker up under the cab roof and cut out the 2 rear windows to give the sound a place to go.

Thanks Pete.

Bob, since you plan on using the chassis with different body shells how did you fasten the speaker to the cab roof?

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

I had hoped that she would paint the wall for a backdrop; she has that level of talent. However, it was not to be. But we do have a mountain made of left over foam board from our construction project.

Jay. ..." one thing about trains; it doesn't matter where they're going . What matters is....".aah...wait a minute.......how about................one thing about layouts ; it doesn't matter what you want to happen. What matters is that you are flexible and inventive enough to soldier on.

This started out as one of those low-end Lionel USRA 0-8-0's. After I had test-fit the new (actually old O-scale) zinc pilot. This whole project was a case of a $100 saddle on a $50 horse; it does run smoothly, though. It has been converted to an "emulation" of a 1940's Alabama, Tennessee and Northern Consolidation.

And now. The front truck under the new, extended pilot is old Lionel PW stock, modified. Dynamo and pops were re-arranged. I can't show you a photo of the real loco (not my photos), but they were small-drivered Lima Consols, with twin sand domes and box tenders with extended coal boards (I used styrene). The name on the tender? Prototypical. One of these locos was used on a WWI-era commuter train (using small-ish re-cycled Northeastern commuter cars, it seems) that ran from downtown/waterfront Mobile up to Gulf Shipbuilding, among other places. This seemed to be a humorous nickname that stuck. It ended after the war.

Modified cheapie MPC tender; Postwar trucks. Original headlight, re-positioned. Modified running boards. No sound, no command, no one left on base.

Very niche, very local; no one cares but me, but I had the loco and the parts and the photos of the real thing.

D500, Nice work. My views on what I want to get out of the hobby have changed over the years. Tinker and make something close to what you want and have fun. No stress on what might be coming in the next catalog or the next big must have feature.

D500, that is some nice work.

@Dave_C posted:

D500, Nice work. My views on what I want to get out of the hobby have changed over the years. Tinker and make something close to what you want and have fun. No stress on what might be coming in the next catalog or the next big must have feature.

Yeah, it keeps getting more whimsical.

My latest investigation involves getting a modern flywheel-equipped can motor (and rev unit!)  under and into a 1920's (I guess) Ives NYC S-motor "model", with the original cast-iron frame. The patina will stay. Resto-mod idea - looks old, drives new.

Nope - the Williams truck (from a donor GP7) is too tall, no matter how I sneak up on it. OK, Ives back on the shelf - for now....

While moving a lot of this and that over here and there most of the day I decided it was time for change. I dismantled the (Peter Riddle) layout. There was nothing wrong with it but I have some idea that starting over isn't too late! In fact very freeing to advance! Maybe something less traditional will develop.  Spring may be a better time to start a new.
right now back to getting some space for the electrical modifications work. And a ton of shop vac mania!

btw, I kept the figure 8 table for a test track we all need one of those. lol.

Off the work bench and onto the layout. Jack, my Superintendent of Scenic Design, combined three Plasticville structures into this masterpiece. We printed out red bricks and used cement colored paint on the columns. I’m very fortunate to have his skills.

Jay

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Off the work bench and onto the layout. Jack, my Superintendent of Scenic Design, combined three Plasticville structures into this masterpiece. We printed out red bricks and used cement colored paint on the columns. I’m very fortunate to have his skills.

Jay

This is one nice piece Jay.    It is indeed a masterpiece that would be a real asset on any layout

Guys....you know who you are....stay with talking about the topic of this thread.  My mods deleted a bunch of chit chat.  Do your chatting via email.

@coach joe posted:

Bob, since you plan on using the chassis with different body shells how did you fasten the speaker to the cab roof?

Double-face tape.....

The back of the magnet hits the roof so a piece of tape does the job.

I use it to mount the boards too.

Bob

Built up a couple of Team Track Models Schneider trailers to go with my Menards Schneider warehouse this week / evening in a hotel away for work.  It was worth checking a bag so I could get something done at night!

Been working on my project car. Still needs more body work and sanding. But it's coming along nicely.

@Jayhawk500 posted:

Been working on my project car. Still needs more body work and sanding. But it's coming along nicely.

Chris impressive work! I am not sure what your building, but it is going to be huge! I can't wait to see the finished product!

@mike g. posted:

Chris impressive work! I am not sure what your building, but it is going to be huge! I can't wait to see the finished product!

It's the Union Pacifics UPP 2066 Generator Car. I have a build thread going.

https://ogrforum.com/topic/mod...-car-upp-2066?page=1

Chris I will have to take a look. Thanks for the information.

Finally wrapping up my PC BEEP/ Flyerchief upgrade. Got the wiring finished and stuffed under the shell.

I had a measure twice, cut once moment. I had the board mounted above the motors but realized that the motor driver board was too tall to fit. I reconfigured everything and wound up putting the board on it's side. Not ideal but it works.
After saying one too many times- I need to get a roll of Kapton tape, I did. Found it at Micro-Center. I don't want anything to short against the weights.
Sorry but I forgot to take pix before final assembly but trust me- everything fit- barely. Getting the wiring dressed in with enough of a service loop is challenging. MTH had the right idea with the spring contact pads on the shells for lighting.
The board has a cab light output so the engine has: number boards (from track power), and directional headlights.
Front and rear elecro-couplers and sound.
Thanks to Pete @Norton who did a FC board in a BEEP recently and provided some guidance along the way with the couplers.
I also discovered that there's a 3rd type of plug on these boards. I bought JST-ZH plugs which work for most of the inputs, but several of the plugs, for chuff, etc, are slightly smaller than the ZH. I'm not using them but to the eye they looked the same.

This is set up so that I can duplicate the lighting and speaker in other BEEP shells and put them on this chassis.

I'll post a video when I can.

Bob

Bob, it sounds like you did a great job.  I am not seeing your photographs, though.

Bob sound like a lot of work! I am glad that it turned out good and everything is working fine!

Merry Christmas to you and the family!

P.S. Also no photos, but the Image Not Found looks AMAZING!

@Mark Boyce @mike g.

I reloaded the photos.

Thanks and Merry Christmas.

Bob

Bob, now I see the photographs!  You did a great job fitting everything in and managing the wires too.

@RSJB18 posted:

Finally wrapping up my PC BEEP/ Flyerchief upgrade. Got the wiring finished and stuffed under the shell.

I had a measure twice, cut once moment. I had the board mounted above the motors but realized that the motor driver board was too tall to fit. I reconfigured everything and wound up putting the board on it's side. Not ideal but it works.
After saying one too many times- I need to get a roll of Kapton tape, I did. Found it at Micro-Center. I don't want anything to short against the weights.
Sorry but I forgot to take pix before final assembly but trust me- everything fit- barely. Getting the wiring dressed in with enough of a service loop is challenging. MTH had the right idea with the spring contact pads on the shells for lighting.
The board has a cab light output so the engine has: number boards (from track power), and directional headlights.
Front and rear elecro-couplers and sound.
Thanks to Pete @Norton who did a FC board in a BEEP recently and provided some guidance along the way with the couplers.
I also discovered that there's a 3rd type of plug on these boards. I bought JST-ZH plugs which work for most of the inputs, but several of the plugs, for chuff, etc, are slightly smaller than the ZH. I'm not using them but to the eye they looked the same.

This is set up so that I can duplicate the lighting and speaker in other BEEP shells and put them on this chassis.

I'll post a video when I can.

Bob

Yep Bob I would probably Break it! LOL

Merry Christmas

Can't keep a busy bench empty for too long so after a quick clean up from the BEEP, I'm jumping back into the MTH S2 that's been languishing.....

If you remember, I was planning an ERR install but the boards wouldn't fit.

So I punted and picked up another Flyerchief board. Lionel doesn't have a S2 in Flyer so a Baldwin VO-1000 ran a close 2nd.

I fabbed a mount for the board.

Power and motors are ready to go. Need to build the lighting.

Bob

I have a few MTH 2-10-0 decapods in various roadnames. I love the engine, a well proportioned locomotive with great detailing.

One drawback on the Shawmut and the Erie versions, was the exaggerated rear tender beam. Some MTH versions have the short deck while most have the exaggerated long deck that tends to detract from the overall all look of the engine.

I happened to be looking through some auctions of the 2-10-0 and saw a 2 rail version with the short, correct rear pilot beam. I searched the model number and discovered that a few versions of the MTH engine had the correct rear beam.

It turns out, that both tender beams were still available from MTH. The parts list showed two types, the long and short versions. I ordered a few of the shorter beams, as well as a few of the shorter electro-couplers, that would match the installation of the short beam. Here is the comparison…

The shorter beam required a shorter coupler…

The “after” view…

A much better look and more correct for my Erie and Shawmut Russians.

The parts are in the website. Only the Santa Fe rear short beam is available now. Part number: GA1140053A…

Tom

@Krieglok posted:

I have a few MTH 2-10-0 decapods in various roadnames. I love the engine, a well proportioned locomotive with great detailing.

The “after” view…

A much better look and more correct for my Erie and Shawmut Russians.

Th

Tom

The tender looks much better Tom. Any idea why MTH uses the long deck? Is it prototypical?

Bob

More time at the bench this afternoon...did some shelving re-org in my shop too. I found 6 old gallon paint cans that rattled when I shook them......don't think that's normal??????

My MTH S2 build is cruising along. I built the front and rear lights today and installed the front ones. The rear will go in soon.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

The tender looks much better Tom. Any idea why MTH uses the long deck? Is it prototypical?

Bob

Hi Bob.

It is a bit of a mystery as MTH produced both for various models. There doesn’t seem to be any logic to the applications other than maybe 3 rail vs 2 rail engines…

Tom

Bob and Tom,

I recall reading the long deck isn’t prototypical, MTH just screwed up.  The early models had the long deck until MTH corrected the mistake.

John

@Steam Crazy posted:

Bob and Tom,

I recall reading the long deck isn’t prototypical, MTH just screwed up.  The early models had the long deck until MTH corrected the mistake.

John

That sounds good to me! I was lucky to find some of the later, short platforms in the parts site…

Tom

HO scale:

Just got another Kansas City & Gulf GP7 into paint. Weathering is next.

Andre

@laming posted:

HO scale:

Just got another Kansas City & Gulf GP7 into paint. Weathering is next.

Andre

assume this is a before and to be-after shot...... almost too pretty to weather.

Bob

More work on the MTH/Flyer-S2 upgrade. I had everything done....or so I thought.....rookie mistake, I reversed  polarity on the lighting. I've swapped everything and tested. The rear headlight isn't working but I think I damaged the wiring making it fit into the bracket.
I'll take it out and test and repair.

Power side is good. The board sync's to the app and moved forward/reverse.

Also got the crew back into the cab.....they are none to happy with the yardmaster at the moment.......

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

More work on the MTH/Flyer-S2 upgrade. I had everything done....or so I thought.....rookie mistake, I reversed  polarity on the lighting. I've swapped everything and tested. The rear headlight isn't working but I think I damaged the wiring making it fit into the bracket.
I'll take it out and test and repair.

Power side is good. The board sync's to the app and moved forward/reverse.

Also got the crew back into the cab.....they are none to happy with the yardmaster at the moment.......

Bob

Those stinking yardmasters have forgotten what it's like to be out here in the cab in the cold!!    Easy to make mistake, Bob!!

@RSJB18 posted:

assume this is a before and to be-after shot...... almost too pretty to weather.

Bob

Thou assumest correctly.

Haven't decided to what extent to weather the 427 just yet.

It will look quite used and worn, but still getting the job done.

The condition of my KC&G engines is intentional so as to reflect the bankrupt/reorganizing aspect of my Kansas City & Gulf theme, circa autumn of 1964. Most of the roster are still wearing their original paint schemes they left the factory with. For the 1st generation engines, that could be anywhere from 12-16 years or more, depending on the unit.

Andre

Great work guys! I know at this point in my Model RR Life I wouldn't try either wiring or weathering! But you guys make it look easy!

@RSJB18 Nice to see you working still on the stuff on your bench! You might want to slow it down as you don't want an empty bench! You need a place to hide the incoming purchase! LOL

@laming Andre Nice paint and weathering! I am sure when you get to the point where you think you have enough weathering you will know!

Keep up the wonderful work!

I have been playing with this for the past few weeks. I bought it years ago but it was a very poor runner, drew a lot of current and overheated. I was going to relegate to Roundhouse scenery. Then stopped at friend’s home who has a few Weaver Diesels that he has upgraded and they run like a watch. He turned me on to a few vendors that sell upgrade parts.

Finished up this weekend's Atlas 2R MP15DC project tonight by installing the Mopac spark arrestors and painting the handrails.  This was originally a dummy unit that had its internals swapped with a running model, along with a Soundtraxx Blunami 4408 EMD-2 decoder, CurrentKeeperII and 27mm dia. Mega Bass speaker.  Original LEDs were reused with some bridge rectifier assemblies from Evan Designs.

~Tim

These WERE on the workbench a while ago.  I installed firecracker antennae and super uplifting spark arrestors on some locomotives.

Nothing.....been a long time.....

Got my MTH S2 assembled and on the rails tonight.

Videos and more pix to follow.

Bob

Very efficient Bob, and now to see how long it lasts. Hopefully, not too long.

Oh Bob don't say it's so! You better get something now to fix or something new just to set there so it looks like you have something on the bench! If you don't have something the CEO will find something for you!

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

Very efficient Bob, and now to see how long it lasts. Hopefully, not too long.

@mike g. posted:

Oh Bob don't say it's so! You better get something now to fix or something new just to set there so it looks like you have something on the bench! If you don't have something the CEO will find something for you!

Thanks guys....no worries- I'm sure this will be a temporary condition. The CEO has determined that it's time to take the Christmas Tree down so that means the trains have to get put away too.

I have a scenery project in mind that I may tackle next.

Bob

Bob, the S2 looks great!  I’m sure it runs great too!

@RSJB18 posted:

Thanks guys....no worries- I'm sure this will be a temporary condition. The CEO has determined that it's time to take the Christmas Tree down so that means the trains have to get put away too.

I have a scenery project in mind that I may tackle next.

Bob

Bob that's good news! Scenery is a good project plus it will keep you moving forward!

Ugh…the last step to finishing the layout is to either get this Bowser turntable working smoothly, or drop the money for a new Millhouse River one.  The weight of the pit has warped the edges of the top, so I think I’ll use steel L brackets.  I need to make a good motor mount, too—the old one was a hillbilly block of wood, and it had lots of backlash.  At least it has the Millhouse River upgrade.

@RIRocket posted:

Ugh…the last step to finishing the layout is to either get this Bowser turntable working smoothly, or drop the money for a new Millhouse River one.  The weight of the pit has warped the edges of the top, so I think I’ll use steel L brackets.  I need to make a good motor mount, too—the old one was a hillbilly block of wood, and it had lots of backlash.  At least it has the Millhouse River upgrade.

Is that 1/4" plywood or Luan being used to hold up the turntable?

If so, try some 1/2" baltic birch plywood, cut in the same size.   

Here's the final assembly pix and video of the shake down run.

Bob

@Berkshire President posted:

Is that 1/4" plywood or Luan being used to hold up the turntable?

If so, try some 1/2" baltic birch plywood, cut in the same size.   

Seems to me it’s more than 1/4”.  I’ll have to measure again.  At any rate, I’m unmotivated to un-nail the whole pit to redo it.  I’m hoping the L steel will work.

After many weeks in the box, a family Christmas in the Cook Islands and, of course, jet lag, I finally got around to bench testing my new MTH-WTIU.   Happy to report that on the bench it preformed well.   No issues with my iPad not finding the wifi signal.   During the process I was alerted that a new upgrade is available but I chose to delay that for another time.  Spent the afternoon adding eight MTH engines and two lash ups to the new WTIU.    It was also a good time to grease and oil the fleet.     For me, the new year has had a great beginning!!

Cheers to All!!

Dave

@RSJB18 posted:

More work on the MTH/Flyer-S2 upgrade. I had everything done....or so I thought.....rookie mistake, I reversed  polarity on the lighting. I've swapped everything and tested. The rear headlight isn't working but I think I damaged the wiring making it fit into the bracket.
I'll take it out and test and repair.

Power side is good. The board sync's to the app and moved forward/reverse.

Also got the crew back into the cab.....they are none to happy with the yardmaster at the moment.......

Bob

I confess I did not review 50 + thread pages but is there a reason to use a flyer chief board in this case and the beep, not an o gauge lion chief  board? Thanks.

@hokie71 posted:

I confess I did not review 50 + thread pages but is there a reason to use a flyer chief board in this case and the beep, not an o gauge lion chief  board? Thanks.

Yep.....electro-couplers.....flyer boards have them lionchief don't at this level.

Lionchief didn't add ec's until the +2.0 series. And these have speed control which would be difficult to retrofit on an older loco.

I wasn't aware of the difference until Pete @Norton did his BEEP.

Thanks for asking....👍👍

Bob

@darlander posted:

After many weeks in the box, a family Christmas in the Cook Islands and, of course, jet lag, I finally got around to bench testing my new MTH-WTIU.   Happy to report that on the bench it preformed well.   No issues with my iPad not finding the wifi signal.   During the process I was alerted that a new upgrade is available but I chose to delay that for another time.  Spent the afternoon adding eight MTH engines and two lash ups to the new WTIU.    It was also a good time to grease and oil the fleet.     For me, the new year has had a great beginning!!

Cheers to All!!

Dave

Nice Yellowstone!   

I’m revitalizing my Bowser turntable.  I took some warp out of the sides with steel angle brackets.  I also shaved a bit off each end of the bridge, as it was rubbing on one part of the pit wall.  I made a new motor mount, and although it doesn’t look that great, it’s strong and way better than the hillbilly mount I had before.  It works smoothly now.

@RIRocket posted:

I’m revitalizing my Bowser turntable.  I took some warp out of the sides with steel angle brackets.  I also shaved a bit off each end of the bridge, as it was rubbing on one part of the pit wall.  I made a new motor mount, and although it doesn’t look that great, it’s strong and way better than the hillbilly mount I had before.  It works smoothly now.

Looks good and as long as it runs nice and smooth, and you like it all is good! That sure looks like 3/4" plywood. If I am wrong, please correct me!

@mike g. posted:

Looks good and as long as it runs nice and smooth, and you like it all is good! That sure looks like 3/4" plywood. If I am wrong, please correct me!

The corners need a 1/16” pad, so while my benchwork is, I believe, 3/4”, the wood they used must be maybe 1/2”.

@RIRocket posted:

The corners need a 1/16” pad, so while my benchwork is, I believe, 3/4”, the wood they used must be maybe 1/2”.

I was hoping so as I am getting closer to getting my layout going and I plan on using 1/2" for most of the layout, but am going to use 3/4" for where my Millhouse TT is going to go.

Just off the workbench at the Warrenville yards is this LIRR tanker created from a $5. junker

Before - note that I printed decals and planed on using wire from m local Chinese restaurant's take out container handles for piping:

After. I decided to use coat closet hanger wire for a bolder piping look:

That’s ingenious John, great job.

Jay

@Lionelski posted:

Just off the workbench at the Warrenville yards is this LIRR tanker created from a $5. junker

Before - note that I printed decals and planed on using wire from m local Chinese restaurant's take out container handles for piping:

After. I decided to use coat closet hanger wire for a bolder piping look:

Nice work John. Tons of those post war Sunoco tankers around.

Bob

John great work! I see those cars at a lot of thrift stores!

I decided that it was time for all my hoppers to have a bath. 30+ years of being stored in a smokey house left them with a funky film of dust & schmutz. After a gentle bath in warm water and dawn soap they are looking much better.

I've installed a Blunami 4408 board in an Atlas Vermont Railway GP60 and am slowly converting it to BNSF patched #198.  I used Fusion Scale Graphics decal sheet and Smokebox Graphics stick on reflectors.  I have yet to install the white antennas on each side of the cab roof, re-install the air reservoirs, associated piping and a couple railings.   I used relays to operate the original TMCC couplers. 

Larry

after cutting some pilings (from chop sticks) and scraping them with a worn zona saw, I decided to build a needed structure. I spent sometime fitting sticks together with clamps and glue. I have wanted to make a shed for the work barge I am making. Doesn’t look like much now except for the satisfaction of getting a bit closer with only some random sticks of wood! there will be windows all around this shed for optimal visibility.  the entrance  (will be cut open on the two vertical pencil lines)  front open for heavy motor equipment and lots of detailed  stuff. Of course there will be siding, some doors and ladders, and other hardware. It will be weather worn and down and dirty.
today, the trick to this was making a horizontal brace on front and back to fit the camber (measure of deck curvature applied transversely) . It worked! Fits well.

@Leroof posted:

after cutting some pilings (from chop sticks) and scraping them with a worn zona saw, I decided to build a needed structure. I spent sometime fitting sticks together with clamps and glue. I have wanted to make a shed for the work barge I am making. Doesn’t look like much now except for the satisfaction of getting a bit closer with only some random sticks of wood! there will be windows all around this shed for optimal visibility.  the entrance  (will be cut open on the two vertical pencil lines)  front open for heavy motor equipment and lots of detailed  stuff. Of course there will be siding, some doors and ladders, and other hardware. It will be weather worn and down and dirty.
today, the trick to this was making a horizontal brace on front and back to fit the camber (measure of deck curvature applied transversely) . It worked! Fits well.

Looks good so far Pierre.  I'm glad you mentioned the deck camber, my eyes would have never picked up that curvature but once you mentioned it I can see it where the base of the shed meets the deck.

@Leroof Pierre, very nice work.  I'm like Coach Joe not seeing the smooth camber until you pointed it out! 

Thx, coach Joe and Mark.   As irregular as the shed may be, fitting the camber made my day!

@Leroof the base looks great! Did you cut it that way or was it a little sanding here and there?

Here is a Bangor & Aroostook Railroad (BAR) converted troop sleeper caboose I have been working on. It started off as an Atlas car and I modified the side windows, cut open the end vestibules and added scratchbuilt bulkhead doorways, added scratchbuilt bay windows, and did some other modifications.  It just needs its two-rail trucks swapped for three-rail trucks and couplers (which I recently obtained) and then the corner steps need to be added.

Mike G,  I cut it (shaped it ) after making a pattern of the camber on deck. Thx for your interest sir.

Ben L Maggi, nice work on the BAR converted troop sleeper caboose! Cool.

I have shifted some gears today, I have  a vintage( not aware of manufacturer or era? Early can motor job! ) boxcab that was a display model with the idea it would appear on the float job. It’s two rail, mostly all metal construction, now on the workbench. It never ran when obtained ( two decades ago?). Has two can motors and derlin chains and nylon gears. Yesterday I opened it up. Dirt and grime! Under the circumstances it would not run.  Picture to follow.

Started by a good cleaning, top to bottom. Removed the motors and check for any obvious first sight irregularities. I didn’t photograph the bottom but take my word for it Gunk city!  The toothbrush I used was in full use.

Gears had some gunk, chains had it too. I got it to the point where the motors were happily (well, moving  at least) spinning. I put the motors back into the chassis and the spinning wheels now met with a dremel spinning on low with a polishing atatchment. Placed it on the track and it moved doing the jerk like the 60’s dance! The motors moved in sync somewhat!

I decided to clean it again. When done it needed a tiny bit of lubrication, certainly appreciated as it was dry as a desert! With the motors taken off again The wheels and chains moved freely on both trucks. One significantly easier than the other. A slight bit of resistance remained in spite of the cleaning and lube efforts. There were no breaks in the chains, no gear irregularities seen.  A bit of wheel wobble as seen in the next video.


What I see is the possibility of  axle irregularity.
more on this story after lunch.

@Leroof posted:

Mike G,  I cut it (shaped it ) after making a pattern of the camber on deck. Thx for your interest sir.

Ben L Maggi, nice work on the BAR converted troop sleeper caboose! Cool.

I have shifted some gears today, I have  a vintage( not aware of manufacturer or era? Early can motor job! ) boxcab that was a display model with the idea it would appear on the float job. It’s two rail, mostly all metal construction, now on the workbench. It never ran when obtained ( two decades ago?). Has two can motors and derlin chains and nylon gears. Yesterday I opened it up. Dirt and grime! Under the circumstances it would not run.  Picture to follow.

Started by a good cleaning, top to bottom. Removed the motors and check for any obvious first sight irregularities. I didn’t photograph the bottom but take my word for it Gunk city!  The toothbrush I used was in full use.

Gears had some gunk, chains had it too. I got it to the point where the motors were happily (well, moving  at least) spinning. I put the motors back into the chassis and the spinning wheels now met with a dremel spinning on low with a polishing atatchment. Placed it on the track and it moved doing the jerk like the 60’s dance! The motors moved in sync somewhat!

I decided to clean it again. When done it needed a tiny bit of lubrication, certainly appreciated as it was dry as a desert! With the motors taken off again The wheels and chains moved freely on both trucks. One significantly easier than the other. A slight bit of resistance remained in spite of the cleaning and lube efforts. There were no breaks in the chains, no gear irregularities seen.  A bit of wheel wobble as seen in the next video.


What I see is the possibility of  axle irregularity.
more on this story after lunch.

Looks good for it's age Pierre. Put the shell back on and run it!

Bob

Back from lunch. OK. in order for the little beast to move it needs 3.2 volts DC to start up. So, its slow creeping characteristics just never were a part of its history! But with the weight of the metal shell and some rolling stock to pull or push it will do the float job. Runs better ok at 5 volts.
I’m with Bob, shell on and run it.
I -Pad battery down to 2% ! Back when recharged.

it’s a bit funky but it was well worth the fun renovating this.

Does anyone want to guess what where and when this was manufactured?

One day she will appear working in Saturday Morning Switcher post possibly!

Thx and appreciation to all that tuned in.

@Leroof posted:

it’s a bit funky but it was well worth the fun renovating this.
Two. decades is a long sentence to be in a box or on a shelf!

one day she will appear working in Saturday morning switcher post possibly!

Thx and appreciation to all that tuned in.

Very cool, congratulations!

Thx Mike!

It runs very smoothly!

Mark! lol. That funky wobble crawl will still load and unload a rail float!  
I think what’s next is some head lights, and a seated motorman,  maybe some weathering sometime.

@Leroof, Pierre, I like it!!  It crawls slow enough for me and we'll blame that wobble on poor roadbed.  Very interesting box cab shell.  Is that the float it was running on?

Hey coach Joe, you bet, it’s the railfloat it’s wobbling on! lol.
I guess irregular roadbed, waves and wind too! It does have that kind of appeal.

For now, back to making the work barge parts.

thx buddy.

Working on a 665 and tender acquired from a good friend in a trade.  Like most postwar equipment - as long as it was stored in a dry environment, it will run if you clean it up a bit and give it a little oil and grease. I was not disappointed.  Wiring on tender was very brittle.

@Leroof, that float is almost as long as my whole layout!

David O King offered an O-scale version of this locomotive. Here is an example:


https://dl.dropbox.com/scl/fi/...xj1ncuoobt9t8szup80r

Here is a flyer for the model. A date of 1972 has been written on the flyer:

Pierre, so it was available in four road names.  David O. King is a new name to me.  Yes a light and motorman would be well worth adding!  👍🏻

Coach Joe. In keeping with the topic On my workbench this moment resides my scratchbuilt semi scale representation of a railfloat. It measured length is  73.25 inches or 6 ft and 5/48ths, a scale 293 “O scale feet” when connected to the float bridge it becomes a switching layout given there is ample room on the land side!

Hi Mark, this indeed is the David O King model. I believe they were available undecorated as well. I did not paint it but the color is very typical and resembles the Harlem Transfer Company livery.  I have a 8x10 photo of this type of locomotive from 1956. It’s a Harlem Transfer loco.  I need to get permission from photographer (if possible) to post it. But you may look up Harlem Transfer Company to find a photo and the rather unique freight house it served in the Bronx NYC. I have yet to find the LIRR version. I have seen photos of the other companies.  I do have a set of LIRR RATS electrics that served the float bridges. They are quite a different animal altogether! Thx for your interest.

The LIRR 401 box cab was longer and had two diesel engines. Arrived in 1926 and was retired in 1951. Same body stile but longer at 40 feet.

Since my Menards Beta engine’s nylon gears cracked within 100 feet of operation, I am repurposing the controls into a dual-dc can driven K-Line SW2 that I’ve had for 35 years - from my 1990 Proctor & Gamble set.  Speed control isn’t great but it’s my first conversion from conventional to ‘lion chief’   I’m Using a 0-50ohm pot set at about 17ohms to slow the speed.  I’ll need to pull the capacitors off of the Menards board and wire them independently to get everything to fit.

@Hannibal-St Joseph RR posted:

Since my Menards Beta engine’s nylon gears cracked within 100 feet of operation, I am repurposing the controls into a dual-dc can driven K-Line SW2 that I’ve had for 35 years - from my 1990 Proctor & Gamble set.  Speed control isn’t great but it’s my first conversion from conventional to ‘lion chief’   I’m Using a 0-50ohm pot set at about 17ohms to slow the speed.  I’ll need to pull the capacitors off of the Menards board and wire them independently to get everything to fit.

Good repurposing of the Menards boards. I'd make two suggestions: wire the motors in series, and I run my Menards beta-1 at about 12v which helps slow it down and makes the stops/ starts a little smoother.

Bob

@RSJB18 thank you for the suggestion to run the motors in series.  I will try it.  I’m excited to be able to use my P&G switcher.

@Hannibal-St Joseph RR posted:

@RSJB18 thank you for the suggestion to run the motors in series.  I will try it.  I’m excited to be able to use my P&G switcher.

Don't worry Dan! Bob is a professional at Frankenstein train equipment! He knows all the ins and outs to make things go! LOL

@Hannibal-St Joseph RR posted:

Since my Menards Beta engine’s nylon gears cracked within 100 feet of operation, I am repurposing the controls into a dual-dc can driven K-Line SW2 that I’ve had for 35 years - from my 1990 Proctor & Gamble set.  Speed control isn’t great but it’s my first conversion from conventional to ‘lion chief’   I’m Using a 0-50ohm pot set at about 17ohms to slow the speed.  I’ll need to pull the capacitors off of the Menards board and wire them independently to get everything to fit.

Great Idea Dan, it is better to reuse it then have 2 engines sitting on the shelf!

Thanks @mike g.  and @RSJB18 !
Wiring the 2 K-Line DC can motors in series smoothed out the transplanted Menards control quite a bit, in addition to the 17ohm pot.  I can almost jam it all in - next I’ll drill out the lenses and insert the LED fwd and rear directional lights.  Marker lights will take a bit of work - cut out the existing markers, create boxes around the lights, create/install lenses with “1990” as the engine number.  I’ll do that later, maybe.   For now I nearly have an added engine ready to contribute to my RR economy!

@Hannibal-St Joseph RR posted:

Thanks @mike g.  and @RSJB18 !
Wiring the 2 K-Line DC can motors in series smoothed out the transplanted Menards control quite a bit, in addition to the 17ohm pot.  I can almost jam it all in - next I’ll drill out the lenses and insert the LED fwd and rear directional lights.  Marker lights will take a bit of work - cut out the existing markers, create boxes around the lights, create/install lenses with “1990” as the engine number.  I’ll do that later, maybe.   For now I nearly have an added engine ready to contribute to my RR economy!

Happy to help Dan. As @mike g. said- I can Frankentrain 'em with the best of them!

Bob

So I guess this is work bench related. Today I pulled my pile of O&M manuals, receipts, and miscellany off the shelf next to my bench and organized it all in a file box. I recently pulled the box out of my attic and tossed all of the old bills and receipts dating back to 1998......

I started updating my Train inventory as I went too. I've promised the CEO that I would get all of this organized so that when she's sees what I've really spent, she can kill me and know the value......

Before and after

I still have to go through a big stack of Trainz receipts..... Yea...I said BIG!

Bob

This is a 3830 submarine I am working on that came with a 3820 car.

The coloring is from sun burn. Easy to tell it has been around for many years.  It was really dirty, but after cleaning off the dirt one side had been darkened.  Most likely from being in the sun.   The foam float is very hard.  The propeller, brake and induction tube will need to be painted back to black.    What is the induction tube?  That is what many today are calling the periscope.   In the original 3330 parts list it is shown as an induction tube.   It appears Lionel ment it to represent the snorkel on many post war submarines.

The rubber bands disintegrated when touched and the 2 orings that hold the assembly together in back also turned to powder. 

Some rubber bands, paint and 2 little o-rings and it will be ready to go for another 65 years.

@RSJB18 posted:

So I guess this is work bench related. Today I pulled my pile of O&M manuals, receipts, and miscellany off the shelf next to my bench and organized it all in a file box. I recently pulled the box out of my attic and tossed all of the old bills and receipts dating back to 1998......

I started updating my Train inventory as I went too. I've promised the CEO that I would get all of this organized so that when she's sees what I've really spent, she can kill me and know the value......

You should never hit the total button to know the cost of the hobby. 

My wife is a teacher and it is in her DNA to keep one copy of everything.  We bought a ScanSnap IX300 scanner and 2-3 weeks later we eliminated about 1000 pounds of paper and got a lot of our storage back.   

That is what I am doing with my Lionel Manuals also.  Much easier to find vs. digging through a bookshelf and boxes.