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@Krieglok posted:

I understand your confusion. It’s okay. Dallas had suggested I should have my own thread, owing to the work I do, as a compliment on his part about my creations. Very kind of him to do so!

It’s kind of like excellent modelers such as HarmonYards and Others who have their own, on going threads. I am not that good, I just contribute a lot…lol.

Tom

I wouldn't worry about it.  At all.......

I've replaced marker lights on the pw 1656 engines. Not a big fan of the after market lights. The after market light housings are a little smaller then the originals. Noticeable especially if you replace just one light. I did put a set on a boiler, I cut the marker light off the lower section, drilled, glued (Loctite crazy glue) and doweled them in place. I nip a piece of a small paper clip for the dowel.
The pix are a 1656 switcher I recently received, it had a marker light broke off but was still w/the engine. Shows drilled (for doweling), and gluing an original marker light back on. I use some putty to fill in the hole on top of the marker light.
1) 1656 mmarker light [1) crp1) 1656 mmarker light [2) crp1) 1656 mmarker light [3) crp1) 1656 mmarker light [4) crp1) 1656 mmarker light [6) crp

Attachments

Images (5)
  • 1) 1656 mmarker light (1) crp
  • 1) 1656 mmarker light (2) crp
  • 1) 1656 mmarker light (3) crp
  • 1) 1656 mmarker light (4) crp
  • 1) 1656 mmarker light (6) crp
@Lou1985 posted:

Easy one this time. The rear steps on my Lionel Union Pacific E7s have bugged me since I bought them. They are short little nubs so the truck can be turned and popped off (Liondrive) and so the locomotive can go around 036 curves.

download [1)download

I don't care if I have to remove the steps to get the trucks off and if these AA units will go around 036 curves, so I replaced the rear steps. I used the rear steps from MTH F units with some 2mm plastic shims underneath. Looks 100% better and they just bolted on.

download [3)download [2)

Nice!

Been working on a MTH PS-1 Baldwin AS-616. Upgraded the lights to 3mm white LED's, I think they look better now. I also replaced the stock 1/2 watt speaker with a 2 watt super bass speaker. Removed the PS-1 boards and replaced with a Soundtrax Tsunami2 decoder. Now it has command control with cruise and the sounds are way better in my opinion. Still dialing in some of the functions but it is running great!

PS1 vs Tsunami2

20230107_184654

Mounting plate I made out of styrene.

20230106_183158



LED lights

20230107_185206



New speaker.

20230107_185231



Tsunami2 installed

20230107_185255

Test run

Attachments

Images (5)
  • 20230107_184654: PS-1 boards vs Tsunami2
  • 20230106_183158: Mount
  • 20230107_185206: LED
  • 20230107_185231: speaker
  • 20230107_185255
@Darrell posted:

Been working on a MTH PS-1 Baldwin AS-616. Upgraded the lights to 3mm white LED's, I think they look better now. I also replaced the stock 1/2 watt speaker with a 2 watt super bass speaker. Removed the PS-1 boards and replaced with a Soundtrax Tsunami2 decoder. Now it has command control with cruise and the sounds are way better in my opinion. Still dialing in some of the functions but it is running great!


20230107_185255





Nice job Darrell. The DCC board is much smaller without the need for power conversion. Sounds good too.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Nice job Darrell. The DCC board is much smaller without the need for power conversion. Sounds good too.

Bob

Thanks, actually easier than doing ERR since sound and control is on one board. There was enough room left I kept the smoke unit in place, if I want to use the proto couplers I have to make and install a small board to operate them. The same circuit can be used to turn on the smoke also so it is on the list of things to do. I was able to get a Digitrax 8 amp starter set for under $400 and wired it thru a DPDT switch to the layout so I can go  back to DCS/TMCC when needed. The Digitrax throttle is wireless and has 2 speed knobs, makes is really easy to run 2 trains at once and can address over 9000 locomotives! The command station only runs 100 loco's and throttles, although they do have one that runs 400 loco's and throttles. My collection is nowhere near that big so it should cover all my needs in the future.

@Darrell posted:

Been working on a MTH PS-1 Baldwin AS-616. Upgraded the lights to 3mm white LED's, I think they look better now. I also replaced the stock 1/2 watt speaker with a 2 watt super bass speaker. Removed the PS-1 boards and replaced with a Soundtrax Tsunami2 decoder. Now it has command control with cruise and the sounds are way better in my opinion. Still dialing in some of the functions but it is running great!

PS1 vs Tsunami2

20230107_184654

Mounting plate I made out of styrene.

20230106_183158



LED lights

20230107_185206



New speaker.

20230107_185231



Tsunami2 installed

20230107_185255

Test run

Hi @Darrell;

Sometimes I'm a little slow on the uptake (and I apologize for that)...but please allow me to ask a few questions regarding your conversion.

But before I do that, let me say your conversion is super sweet! And the sounds coming from the engine are really great. Really nice job!

Okay...on to my questions.....

With your success in converting the O scale MTH PS1 to Soundtrax electronics components; am I to understand there is (or has always been?) a digital engine control system alternative to MTH DCS and Lionel TMCC/ERR?

With the demise of MTH and their complete lack of PS engine conversion kits through Parts, and Electric Rail Roads limited sound track availability on their conversion kits; do us model railroader have another avenue for either replacing dead electronics that can't be repaired or upgrading conventional engines to digital?

Also, does your converted engine require another/different controller that's different from DCS/TMCC?

This is very exciting to me because I have several engines that either need to be upgraded from PS1 or converted to Command Control.

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