I understand your confusion. It’s okay. Dallas had suggested I should have my own thread, owing to the work I do, as a compliment on his part about my creations. Very kind of him to do so!
It’s kind of like excellent modelers such as HarmonYards and Others who have their own, on going threads. I am not that good, I just contribute a lot…lol.
I've got a 73' center beam flat car going on for conversion to two-rail. That will be #6. That leaves one MTH Auto Rack to do for now. Next step is to start unpacking rolling stock to see what I'm keeping and what I'm getting rid of.
I've replaced marker lights on the pw 1656 engines. Not a big fan of the after market lights. The after market light housings are a little smaller then the originals. Noticeable especially if you replace just one light. I did put a set on a boiler, I cut the marker light off the lower section, drilled, glued (Loctite crazy glue) and doweled them in place. I nip a piece of a small paper clip for the dowel.
The pix are a 1656 switcher I recently received, it had a marker light broke off but was still w/the engine. Shows drilled (for doweling), and gluing an original marker light back on. I use some putty to fill in the hole on top of the marker light.
Easy one this time. The rear steps on my Lionel Union Pacific E7s have bugged me since I bought them. They are short little nubs so the truck can be turned and popped off (Liondrive) and so the locomotive can go around 036 curves.
I don't care if I have to remove the steps to get the trucks off and if these AA units will go around 036 curves, so I replaced the rear steps. I used the rear steps from MTH F units with some 2mm plastic shims underneath. Looks 100% better and they just bolted on.
I don't care if I have to remove the steps to get the trucks off and if these AA units will go around 036 curves, so I replaced the rear steps. I used the rear steps from MTH F units with some 2mm plastic shims underneath. Looks 100% better and they just bolted on.
Still have a K Line caboose that took a tumble of the shelf layout, a Z4000 with something blown, a Weaver CNJ RS3 that may need a drive chain, and some standard gauge 2 bay coal loads for a friend.
Cranked out a quickie this afternoon. I had this A-B-B-A set with three of the four having sound. I figured it might as well be unanimous and installed the sound board in the trailing A-Unit that didn't have sound. Now they all have sound and smoke, ready to thunder down the rails.
Currently working on a MTH RPO car. With how they have the interior done it’s more like a combo baggage/RPO. So figured that’s what im going to do with it.
Been working on a MTH PS-1 Baldwin AS-616. Upgraded the lights to 3mm white LED's, I think they look better now. I also replaced the stock 1/2 watt speaker with a 2 watt super bass speaker. Removed the PS-1 boards and replaced with a Soundtrax Tsunami2 decoder. Now it has command control with cruise and the sounds are way better in my opinion. Still dialing in some of the functions but it is running great!
Been working on a MTH PS-1 Baldwin AS-616. Upgraded the lights to 3mm white LED's, I think they look better now. I also replaced the stock 1/2 watt speaker with a 2 watt super bass speaker. Removed the PS-1 boards and replaced with a Soundtrax Tsunami2 decoder. Now it has command control with cruise and the sounds are way better in my opinion. Still dialing in some of the functions but it is running great!
Nice job Darrell. The DCC board is much smaller without the need for power conversion. Sounds good too.
One truck of my Menards flat car with Army Bus that I've had for a few years just fell off when my grandson lifted off the shelf. I'm trying to figure out how to fix this. You see all the parts in the pic. The truck separated from the rivet (?) the connects the car to the truck.
This Korber Model has been on my work station for several weeks. It's almost ready to take a spot on an industrial spur on my layout. I need to add the steps, some lighting, a sign, and some weathering and it will be finished
Nice job Darrell. The DCC board is much smaller without the need for power conversion. Sounds good too.
Bob
Thanks, actually easier than doing ERR since sound and control is on one board. There was enough room left I kept the smoke unit in place, if I want to use the proto couplers I have to make and install a small board to operate them. The same circuit can be used to turn on the smoke also so it is on the list of things to do. I was able to get a Digitrax 8 amp starter set for under $400 and wired it thru a DPDT switch to the layout so I can go back to DCS/TMCC when needed. The Digitrax throttle is wireless and has 2 speed knobs, makes is really easy to run 2 trains at once and can address over 9000 locomotives! The command station only runs 100 loco's and throttles, although they do have one that runs 400 loco's and throttles. My collection is nowhere near that big so it should cover all my needs in the future.
Been working on a MTH PS-1 Baldwin AS-616. Upgraded the lights to 3mm white LED's, I think they look better now. I also replaced the stock 1/2 watt speaker with a 2 watt super bass speaker. Removed the PS-1 boards and replaced with a Soundtrax Tsunami2 decoder. Now it has command control with cruise and the sounds are way better in my opinion. Still dialing in some of the functions but it is running great!
Sometimes I'm a little slow on the uptake (and I apologize for that)...but please allow me to ask a few questions regarding your conversion.
But before I do that, let me say your conversion is super sweet! And the sounds coming from the engine are really great. Really nice job!
Okay...on to my questions.....
With your success in converting the O scale MTH PS1 to Soundtrax electronics components; am I to understand there is (or has always been?) a digital engine control system alternative to MTH DCS and Lionel TMCC/ERR?
With the demise of MTH and their complete lack of PS engine conversion kits through Parts, and Electric Rail Roads limited sound track availability on their conversion kits; do us model railroader have another avenue for either replacing dead electronics that can't be repaired or upgrading conventional engines to digital?
Also, does your converted engine require another/different controller that's different from DCS/TMCC?
This is very exciting to me because I have several engines that either need to be upgraded from PS1 or converted to Command Control.
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