WHAT’S ON THE WORKBENCH AT THE MOMENT

@RSJB18 posted:

Made progress on my scrap load today in between Honey-do's......

I added another 1/2 scouring pad glued to the base pad. Sprayed the whole thing with a dark bronze rattle can. Got lucky with a 58 degree day here on LI. About a 1/2 hour after I finished, the wind picked up and the temps dropped about 20 deg. and are bottoming out in the 20's tonight

Then I gave it an acrylic wash with dark brown, black, and a drop of dark red.

Still debating if I can call it done or not.....

Thoughts?

Bob

Looks Bob! At my end I would think maybe a little more rust color. But that's just looking on my phone.

Bob, I agree with Mike on the rust, unless you intend the scrap to have just come out of the scrap factory! 😃

Yea. My thoughts exactly. Not rusty enough.

To be continued.

Bob

@RSJB18,

I thought the original looked fine.  You never know what'll show up in a scrap gondola.  In the after picture you could see that the shine has definitely been toned down.

Bob, did you weigh the car down?

Converted this Lionel Southern autorack to 2 rail with Kadee 753 trucks and 746 couplers.

Sometimes a short, easy project is a good distraction. 

@RSJB18 posted:

Yea. My thoughts exactly. Not rusty enough.

To be continued.

Bob

Bob, I agree with Mark and Mike, it needs some rust.

Gene

@Tim Mc posted:

Converted this Lionel Southern autorack to 2 rail with Kadee 753 trucks and 746 couplers.

Sometimes a short, easy project is a good distraction. 

Tim good looking job! I have several cars that are kadee and I really need to redo them.

Nice work

How's this? I did a wash of brown with some red mixed in last night.

Some of the paint stayed in the coils of the pad which actually added to the realism IMHO. I'll probably do one more wash later.

@Tranquil Hollow RR- I'm going to attach the weights to the bottom of the load after the painting is done. I have to weigh the car with the load in it to see how much I need to add. I've found 1.5 -2.0 oz usually is enough.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

How's this? I did a wash of brown with some red mixed in last night.

Some of the paint stayed in the coils of the pad which actually added to the realism IMHO. I'll probably do one more wash later.

@Tranquil Hollow RR- I'm going to attach the weights to the bottom of the load after the painting is done. I have to weigh the car with the load in it to see how much I need to add. I've found 1.5 -2.0 oz usually is enough.

Bob

Nice Bob, I think your right one more and done! 😉

@RSJB18 posted:

How's this? I did a wash of brown with some red mixed in last night.

Some of the paint stayed in the coils of the pad which actually added to the realism IMHO. I'll probably do one more wash later.

Bob

Bob, noticeably better. One more wash certainly wouldn’t hurt if you were to do it, but it could pass as is for me.

Gene

@RSJB18 posted:

How's this? I did a wash of brown with some red mixed in last night.

Some of the paint stayed in the coils of the pad which actually added to the realism IMHO. I'll probably do one more wash

Bob

Bob, FWIW, in the future if you plan on doing more rust weathering, I’ve had great luck with these washes. I did these chains this afternoon. Tomorrow I’ll spot brush them with the dark rust for more detail.

Gene

I'm experimenting with making brick streets like I see here in Butler, Pennsylvania.  I'm following suggestions made by ScoutingDad.  Neither of my first two rolls on NARA clay came out quite right, but I decided to try some painting.  Burnt umber and red with a gray wash.

Here's a sample of the Real McCoy.

@Mark Boyce posted:

I'm experimenting with making brick streets like I see here in Butler, Pennsylvania.  I'm following suggestions made by ScoutingDad.  Neither of my first two rolls on NARA clay came out quite right, but I decided to try some painting.  Burnt umber and red with a gray wash.

Here's a sample of the Real McCoy.

I don't think there's a right or wrong when it comes to brick roads Mark. But I do like the color on the left one a little better.

@Genemed posted:

Bob, FWIW, in the future if you plan on doing more rust weathering, I’ve had great luck with these washes. I did these chains this afternoon. Tomorrow I’ll spot brush them with the dark rust for more detail.

Gene

Thanks Gene. I'm a cheapskate when it comes to scenery, I'd rather put my train budget into the trains......

Which I do......liberally......

That said, sometimes it's easier to buy the right stuff. I'm using cheap acrylics and mixing to a color I like.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

I don't think there's a right or wrong when it comes to brick roads Mark. But I do like the color on the left one a little better.

Thanks Gene. I'm a cheapskate when it comes to scenery, I'd rather put my train budget into the trains......

Which I do......liberally......

That said, sometimes it's easier to buy the right stuff. I'm using cheap acrylics and mixing to a color I like.

Bob

Bob, I agree with you.  I’m probably just thinking of how these attempts compare to what I had in mind. 😃  I think the left one looks better too.

@Mark Boyce posted:

I'm experimenting with making brick streets like I see here in Butler, Pennsylvania.  I'm following suggestions made by ScoutingDad.  Neither of my first two rolls on NARA clay came out quite right, but I decided to try some painting.  Burnt umber and red with a gray wash.

Here's a sample of the Real McCoy.

I concur Mark, left side color looks better. Maybe some black smudges in spots. Good job 👍.

@Mark Boyce posted:

I'm experimenting with making brick streets like I see here in Butler, Pennsylvania.  I'm following suggestions made by ScoutingDad.  Neither of my first two rolls on NARA clay came out quite right, but I decided to try some painting.  Burnt umber and red with a gray wash.

Here's a sample of the Real McCoy.

With further observation Mark, there are a series of bricks that are similar but a little darker. This could account for you not being totally sold on the result. When the weather breaks you might try letting them sit out in the sun.

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

With further observation Mark, there are a series of bricks that are similar but a little darker. This could account for you not being totally sold on the result. When the weather breaks you might try letting them sit out in the sun.

Jay, I gave a thicker wash to some areas, just to see what difference it makes.  Jeff gave me some ideas that should help me out.

Calling it done.....

I suppose the shiny new gondola is not typical, but they all were new at one time, since most look well used and war torn but that's a project for another day. Freight car weathering is a rabbit hole I'm not ready to dive down yet.
I have a Reading car that will get a similar load soon.

Bob

@Mark Boyce posted:

Jay, I gave a thicker wash to some areas, just to see what difference it makes.  Jeff gave me some ideas that should help me out.

Mark- I agree with Jay and Jeff- some dry brushing will bring out some details that may not show up now.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Calling it done.....

I suppose the shiny new gondola is not typical, but they all were new at one time, since most look well used and war torn but that's a project for another day. Freight car weathering is a rabbit hole I'm not ready to dive down yet.
I have a Reading car that will get a similar load soon.

Bob

Bob that turned out looking great! Don't worry about the new look on the gondola it will look with time! Just like the rest of us in the model RR.

Thank you, Bob @RSJB18 I didn’t do anything more with the two examples, but I did roll a new section in place on Monday using some more tips from Jeff.  It looks pretty good before painting.  I was thinking of rolling more before painting.  I’ll be posting.

@Leroof posted:

it’s a bit funky but it was well worth the fun renovating this.

Does anyone want to guess what where and when this was manufactured?

One day she will appear working in Saturday Morning Switcher post possibly!

Thx and appreciation to all that tuned in.

Love it. I even like the noise - so old-school O-scale. No sissy quiet-running here. It sounds like a real piece of machinery.

@trestleking posted:

like a pig in a mud hole...perfect home for a scrap yard gon...

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Calling it done.....

I suppose the shiny new gondola is not typical, but they all were new at one time, since most look well used and war torn but that's a project for another day. Freight car weathering is a rabbit hole I'm not ready to dive down yet.
I have a Reading car that will get a similar load soon.

Bob

I would too, that looks perfect! As far as the new look of rolling stock, I feel the same way, I’m just not ready to even begin thinking about weathering them.

Gene

@Genemed posted:

I would too, that looks perfect! As far as the new look of rolling stock, I feel the same way, I’m just not ready to even begin thinking about weathering them.

Gene

Yep- I still need to weigh the car and see if I need to add any additional weights. The load by itself might be enough.

Thanks

@RSJB18 Bob, I am with you on not weathering rolling stock.  I have too many other projects I would rather do.

@RSJB18 posted:

Calling it done.....

I suppose the shiny new gondola is not typical, but they all were new at one time, since most look well used and war torn but that's a project for another day. Freight car weathering is a rabbit hole I'm not ready to dive down yet.
I have a Reading car that will get a similar load soon.

Bob

That's some nice looking junk and scrap you have there.  If you decide to get into weathering (although I agree that it's a rabbit hole and I can't bring myself to mess up a nice car), there are tons of inexpensive common postwar and MPC gondolas that will gladly give their all for your efforts.

I put the car on the layout last night and tested it out. Pushing the car with my 0-4-0 through a 027 curve was lifting the truck off the track a bit. I weighed the car with the load at 8oz. The load weighs 1oz, and I added another 2.5oz. to the load.

Bob

And yes- that old scale is accurate within .25 oz.

@RSJB18 posted:

I put the car on the layout last night and tested it out. Pushing the car with my 0-4-0 through a 027 curve was lifting the truck off the track a bit. I weighed the car with the load at 8oz. The load weighs 1oz, and I added another 2.5oz. to the load.

Bob

And yes- that old scale is accurate within .25 oz.

It looks good Bob. Did the car lift off the track when it was empty?  Did it stay on the track with the extra weight that you added after the first run?

@pennsyfan posted:

It looks good Bob. Did the car lift off the track when it was empty?  Did it stay on the track with the extra weight that you added after the first run?

Bob- Empty, the car would get pushed off the track completely. With the added weight it holds the rails OK on most passes. The steamer has a fixed pilot, I'm sure with a diesel it will sit down just fine. I'll have to try a diesel next.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

I put the car on the layout last night and tested it out. Pushing the car with my 0-4-0 through a 027 curve was lifting the truck off the track a bit. I weighed the car with the load at 8oz. The load weighs 1oz, and I added another 2.5oz. to the load.

Bob

And yes- that old scale is accurate within .25 oz.

You probably already know about NMRA recommended practice for car weight, but just in case...  for O scale, it's 5 ounces + 1 ounce per inch of length.  So a 9 to 10-inch gondola should have a total weight of 14-15 ounces.  Although it's technically still underweight, there's no value in making it any heavier than it needs to be in order to stay on the track.  Can get tricky with O27 curves - gotta be strategic regarding where it fits into a train.

https://www.nmra.org/beginner/weight

@Mallard4468 posted:

You probably already know about NMRA recommended practice for car weight, but just in case...  for O scale, it's 5 ounces + 1 ounce per inch of length.  So a 9 to 10-inch gondola should have a total weight of 14-15 ounces.  Although it's technically still underweight, there's no value in making it any heavier than it needs to be in order to stay on the track.  Can get tricky with O27 curves - gotta be strategic regarding where it fits into a train.

https://www.nmra.org/beginner/weight

Yea- It's still light but I've found that an ounce or two doesn't make a huge difference. Car placement and how couplers interact is more critical on my tight curves.

Thanks

@RSJB18 posted:

I put the car on the layout last night and tested it out. Pushing the car with my 0-4-0 through a 027 curve was lifting the truck off the track a bit. I weighed the car with the load at 8oz. The load weighs 1oz, and I added another 2.5oz. to the load.

Bob

And yes- that old scale is accurate within .25 oz.

Love that scale and wouldn't even think to question it's accuracy.

@coach joe posted:

Love that scale and wouldn't even think to question it's accuracy.

Thanks Joe. My wife sells stuff online. The .25 oz is verified by the USPS postal scales.

It came from her Grandmother's kitchen.

@RSJB18 posted:

I put the car on the layout last night and tested it out. Pushing the car with my 0-4-0 through a 027 curve was lifting the truck off the track a bit. I weighed the car with the load at 8oz. The load weighs 1oz, and I added another 2.5oz. to the load.

Bob

And yes- that old scale is accurate within .25 oz.

Bob, another job well done. And that scale; they don’t makem like that anymore.

For @pennsyfan and @Mallard4468-

I tried the loaded car behind a WbB NW-2 tonight. The car ran fine through the layout. Can't say the same for a comparable empty car.

With 4oz of added weight it made it out of the same curve and stayed on the rails

Granted...these are Menards cars with less than the best trucks and wheels.

Bob

Marx 666.  Upgraded with reverse unit lockout switch and LED headlight.

The post “Show us your Derricks and Maintenance-of-way cars” inspired me to search for a suitable car to occupy my workbench. The DM&IR repurposed a number of coaches for maintenance duty. The Duluth Missabe & Iron Range Historical Society website provided me with three options and the purchase of a preowned Lionel NYC coach provided the canvas. 

W30, a track department car became the target. It’s designated as a sleeper.

The pre-painted look highlights some of the added detail. On this car I added the electrical power connecters and holders for marker lights to the vestibules.   Marker lights were required only if it was last car of the train.   I also removed doors from the vestibules, added appropriate wire grab irons, rivets detail to the exposed vestibule area and cut back the floor to reveal the steps.

Boarded up several windows per prototype, added fuel/propane tank for cooking stove, kitchen vent and two stacks to venting wood/coal heaters.  

The car is ready for the paint shop.   I have removed the silhouette windows as I plan to detail the interior.   I’m hoping to learn more about the interior arrangement.   If my research ends up in a blind alley, I will do a fantasy setup. I assume the car provided day seating, bunks, kitchen, a heat source, shower and bathrooms so I will do my best to make it functional. Added wood strips to the frame to provide access and clearance for wires and the swing mechanism needed for the trucks and couplers. Will attach a styrene floor over that to support the interior detail.   

Always fun to keep busy with a new project!    Still managing to avoid weathering!  

Cheers, Dave

Dave, that’s a great idea for a car.  I’m sure I have enough projects to keep me from ever weathering 😄