@RIRocket posted:The corners need a 1/16” pad, so while my benchwork is, I believe, 3/4”, the wood they used must be maybe 1/2”.
I was hoping so as I am getting closer to getting my layout going and I plan on using 1/2" for most of the layout, but am going to use 3/4" for where my Millhouse TT is going to go.
Just off the workbench at the Warrenville yards is this LIRR tanker created from a $5. junker
Before - note that I printed decals and planed on using wire from m local Chinese restaurant's take out container handles for piping:
After. I decided to use coat closet hanger wire for a bolder piping look:
That’s ingenious John, great job.
Jay
@Lionelski posted:Just off the workbench at the Warrenville yards is this LIRR tanker created from a $5. junker
Before - note that I printed decals and planed on using wire from m local Chinese restaurant's take out container handles for piping:
After. I decided to use coat closet hanger wire for a bolder piping look:
Nice work John. Tons of those post war Sunoco tankers around.
Bob
John great work! I see those cars at a lot of thrift stores!
I decided that it was time for all my hoppers to have a bath. 30+ years of being stored in a smokey house left them with a funky film of dust & schmutz. After a gentle bath in warm water and dawn soap they are looking much better.
I've installed a Blunami 4408 board in an Atlas Vermont Railway GP60 and am slowly converting it to BNSF patched #198. I used Fusion Scale Graphics decal sheet and Smokebox Graphics stick on reflectors. I have yet to install the white antennas on each side of the cab roof, re-install the air reservoirs, associated piping and a couple railings. I used relays to operate the original TMCC couplers.
Larry
after cutting some pilings (from chop sticks) and scraping them with a worn zona saw, I decided to build a needed structure. I spent sometime fitting sticks together with clamps and glue. I have wanted to make a shed for the work barge I am making. Doesn’t look like much now except for the satisfaction of getting a bit closer with only some random sticks of wood! there will be windows all around this shed for optimal visibility. the entrance (will be cut open on the two vertical pencil lines) front open for heavy motor equipment and lots of detailed stuff. Of course there will be siding, some doors and ladders, and other hardware. It will be weather worn and down and dirty.
today, the trick to this was making a horizontal brace on front and back to fit the camber (measure of deck curvature applied transversely) . It worked! Fits well.
@Leroof posted:after cutting some pilings (from chop sticks) and scraping them with a worn zona saw, I decided to build a needed structure. I spent sometime fitting sticks together with clamps and glue. I have wanted to make a shed for the work barge I am making. Doesn’t look like much now except for the satisfaction of getting a bit closer with only some random sticks of wood! there will be windows all around this shed for optimal visibility. the entrance (will be cut open on the two vertical pencil lines) front open for heavy motor equipment and lots of detailed stuff. Of course there will be siding, some doors and ladders, and other hardware. It will be weather worn and down and dirty.
today, the trick to this was making a horizontal brace on front and back to fit the camber (measure of deck curvature applied transversely) . It worked! Fits well.
Looks good so far Pierre. I'm glad you mentioned the deck camber, my eyes would have never picked up that curvature but once you mentioned it I can see it where the base of the shed meets the deck.
@Leroof Pierre, very nice work. I'm like Coach Joe not seeing the smooth camber until you pointed it out!
Thx, coach Joe and Mark. As irregular as the shed may be, fitting the camber made my day!
Here is a Bangor & Aroostook Railroad (BAR) converted troop sleeper caboose I have been working on. It started off as an Atlas car and I modified the side windows, cut open the end vestibules and added scratchbuilt bulkhead doorways, added scratchbuilt bay windows, and did some other modifications. It just needs its two-rail trucks swapped for three-rail trucks and couplers (which I recently obtained) and then the corner steps need to be added.
Mike G, I cut it (shaped it ) after making a pattern of the camber on deck. Thx for your interest sir.
Ben L Maggi, nice work on the BAR converted troop sleeper caboose! Cool.
I have shifted some gears today, I have a vintage( not aware of manufacturer or era? Early can motor job! ) boxcab that was a display model with the idea it would appear on the float job. It’s two rail, mostly all metal construction, now on the workbench. It never ran when obtained ( two decades ago?). Has two can motors and derlin chains and nylon gears. Yesterday I opened it up. Dirt and grime! Under the circumstances it would not run. Picture to follow.
Started by a good cleaning, top to bottom. Removed the motors and check for any obvious first sight irregularities. I didn’t photograph the bottom but take my word for it Gunk city! The toothbrush I used was in full use.
Gears had some gunk, chains had it too. I got it to the point where the motors were happily (well, moving at least) spinning. I put the motors back into the chassis and the spinning wheels now met with a dremel spinning on low with a polishing atatchment. Placed it on the track and it moved doing the jerk like the 60’s dance! The motors moved in sync somewhat!
I decided to clean it again. When done it needed a tiny bit of lubrication, certainly appreciated as it was dry as a desert! With the motors taken off again The wheels and chains moved freely on both trucks. One significantly easier than the other. A slight bit of resistance remained in spite of the cleaning and lube efforts. There were no breaks in the chains, no gear irregularities seen. A bit of wheel wobble as seen in the next video.
What I see is the possibility of axle irregularity.
more on this story after lunch.
@Leroof posted:Mike G, I cut it (shaped it ) after making a pattern of the camber on deck. Thx for your interest sir.
Ben L Maggi, nice work on the BAR converted troop sleeper caboose! Cool.
I have shifted some gears today, I have a vintage( not aware of manufacturer or era? Early can motor job! ) boxcab that was a display model with the idea it would appear on the float job. It’s two rail, mostly all metal construction, now on the workbench. It never ran when obtained ( two decades ago?). Has two can motors and derlin chains and nylon gears. Yesterday I opened it up. Dirt and grime! Under the circumstances it would not run. Picture to follow.
Started by a good cleaning, top to bottom. Removed the motors and check for any obvious first sight irregularities. I didn’t photograph the bottom but take my word for it Gunk city! The toothbrush I used was in full use.
Gears had some gunk, chains had it too. I got it to the point where the motors were happily (well, moving at least) spinning. I put the motors back into the chassis and the spinning wheels now met with a dremel spinning on low with a polishing atatchment. Placed it on the track and it moved doing the jerk like the 60’s dance! The motors moved in sync somewhat!
I decided to clean it again. When done it needed a tiny bit of lubrication, certainly appreciated as it was dry as a desert! With the motors taken off again The wheels and chains moved freely on both trucks. One significantly easier than the other. A slight bit of resistance remained in spite of the cleaning and lube efforts. There were no breaks in the chains, no gear irregularities seen. A bit of wheel wobble as seen in the next video.
What I see is the possibility of axle irregularity.
more on this story after lunch.
Looks good for it's age Pierre. Put the shell back on and run it!
Bob
Back from lunch. OK. in order for the little beast to move it needs 3.2 volts DC to start up. So, its slow creeping characteristics just never were a part of its history! But with the weight of the metal shell and some rolling stock to pull or push it will do the float job. Runs better ok at 5 volts.
I’m with Bob, shell on and run it.
I -Pad battery down to 2% ! Back when recharged.
it’s a bit funky but it was well worth the fun renovating this.
Does anyone want to guess what where and when this was manufactured?
One day she will appear working in Saturday Morning Switcher post possibly!
Thx and appreciation to all that tuned in.
@Leroof posted:it’s a bit funky but it was well worth the fun renovating this.
Two. decades is a long sentence to be in a box or on a shelf!one day she will appear working in Saturday morning switcher post possibly!
Thx and appreciation to all that tuned in.
Very cool, congratulations!
Thx Mike!
It runs very smoothly!
Mark! lol. That funky wobble crawl will still load and unload a rail float!
I think what’s next is some head lights, and a seated motorman, maybe some weathering sometime.
Hey coach Joe, you bet, it’s the railfloat it’s wobbling on! lol.
I guess irregular roadbed, waves and wind too! It does have that kind of appeal.
For now, back to making the work barge parts.
thx buddy.
Working on a 665 and tender acquired from a good friend in a trade. Like most postwar equipment - as long as it was stored in a dry environment, it will run if you clean it up a bit and give it a little oil and grease. I was not disappointed. Wiring on tender was very brittle.
David O King offered an O-scale version of this locomotive. Here is an example:
https://dl.dropbox.com/scl/fi/...xj1ncuoobt9t8szup80r
Here is a flyer for the model. A date of 1972 has been written on the flyer:
Pierre, so it was available in four road names. David O. King is a new name to me. Yes a light and motorman would be well worth adding! 👍🏻
Coach Joe. In keeping with the topic On my workbench this moment resides my scratchbuilt semi scale representation of a railfloat. It measured length is 73.25 inches or 6 ft and 5/48ths, a scale 293 “O scale feet” when connected to the float bridge it becomes a switching layout given there is ample room on the land side!
Hi Mark, this indeed is the David O King model. I believe they were available undecorated as well. I did not paint it but the color is very typical and resembles the Harlem Transfer Company livery. I have a 8x10 photo of this type of locomotive from 1956. It’s a Harlem Transfer loco. I need to get permission from photographer (if possible) to post it. But you may look up Harlem Transfer Company to find a photo and the rather unique freight house it served in the Bronx NYC. I have yet to find the LIRR version. I have seen photos of the other companies. I do have a set of LIRR RATS electrics that served the float bridges. They are quite a different animal altogether! Thx for your interest.
The LIRR 401 box cab was longer and had two diesel engines. Arrived in 1926 and was retired in 1951. Same body stile but longer at 40 feet.
Since my Menards Beta engine’s nylon gears cracked within 100 feet of operation, I am repurposing the controls into a dual-dc can driven K-Line SW2 that I’ve had for 35 years - from my 1990 Proctor & Gamble set. Speed control isn’t great but it’s my first conversion from conventional to ‘lion chief’ I’m Using a 0-50ohm pot set at about 17ohms to slow the speed. I’ll need to pull the capacitors off of the Menards board and wire them independently to get everything to fit.
@Hannibal-St Joseph RR posted:Since my Menards Beta engine’s nylon gears cracked within 100 feet of operation, I am repurposing the controls into a dual-dc can driven K-Line SW2 that I’ve had for 35 years - from my 1990 Proctor & Gamble set. Speed control isn’t great but it’s my first conversion from conventional to ‘lion chief’ I’m Using a 0-50ohm pot set at about 17ohms to slow the speed. I’ll need to pull the capacitors off of the Menards board and wire them independently to get everything to fit.
Good repurposing of the Menards boards. I'd make two suggestions: wire the motors in series, and I run my Menards beta-1 at about 12v which helps slow it down and makes the stops/ starts a little smoother.
Bob
@RSJB18 thank you for the suggestion to run the motors in series. I will try it. I’m excited to be able to use my P&G switcher.
@Hannibal-St Joseph RR posted:@RSJB18 thank you for the suggestion to run the motors in series. I will try it. I’m excited to be able to use my P&G switcher.
Don't worry Dan! Bob is a professional at Frankenstein train equipment! He knows all the ins and outs to make things go! LOL
@Hannibal-St Joseph RR posted:Since my Menards Beta engine’s nylon gears cracked within 100 feet of operation, I am repurposing the controls into a dual-dc can driven K-Line SW2 that I’ve had for 35 years - from my 1990 Proctor & Gamble set. Speed control isn’t great but it’s my first conversion from conventional to ‘lion chief’ I’m Using a 0-50ohm pot set at about 17ohms to slow the speed. I’ll need to pull the capacitors off of the Menards board and wire them independently to get everything to fit.
Great Idea Dan, it is better to reuse it then have 2 engines sitting on the shelf!
Thanks @mike g. and @RSJB18 !
Wiring the 2 K-Line DC can motors in series smoothed out the transplanted Menards control quite a bit, in addition to the 17ohm pot. I can almost jam it all in - next I’ll drill out the lenses and insert the LED fwd and rear directional lights. Marker lights will take a bit of work - cut out the existing markers, create boxes around the lights, create/install lenses with “1990” as the engine number. I’ll do that later, maybe. For now I nearly have an added engine ready to contribute to my RR economy!
@Hannibal-St Joseph RR posted:Thanks @mike g. and @RSJB18 !
Wiring the 2 K-Line DC can motors in series smoothed out the transplanted Menards control quite a bit, in addition to the 17ohm pot. I can almost jam it all in - next I’ll drill out the lenses and insert the LED fwd and rear directional lights. Marker lights will take a bit of work - cut out the existing markers, create boxes around the lights, create/install lenses with “1990” as the engine number. I’ll do that later, maybe. For now I nearly have an added engine ready to contribute to my RR economy!
Happy to help Dan. As @mike g. said- I can Frankentrain 'em with the best of them! 
Bob
So I guess this is work bench related. Today I pulled my pile of O&M manuals, receipts, and miscellany off the shelf next to my bench and organized it all in a file box. I recently pulled the box out of my attic and tossed all of the old bills and receipts dating back to 1998......
I started updating my Train inventory as I went too. I've promised the CEO that I would get all of this organized so that when she's sees what I've really spent, she can kill me and know the value......
Before and after
I still have to go through a big stack of Trainz receipts.....
Yea...I said BIG!
Bob
This is a 3830 submarine I am working on that came with a 3820 car.
The coloring is from sun burn. Easy to tell it has been around for many years. It was really dirty, but after cleaning off the dirt one side had been darkened. Most likely from being in the sun. The foam float is very hard. The propeller, brake and induction tube will need to be painted back to black. What is the induction tube? That is what many today are calling the periscope. In the original 3330 parts list it is shown as an induction tube. It appears Lionel ment it to represent the snorkel on many post war submarines.
The rubber bands disintegrated when touched and the 2 orings that hold the assembly together in back also turned to powder.
Some rubber bands, paint and 2 little o-rings and it will be ready to go for another 65 years.
@RSJB18 posted:So I guess this is work bench related. Today I pulled my pile of O&M manuals, receipts, and miscellany off the shelf next to my bench and organized it all in a file box. I recently pulled the box out of my attic and tossed all of the old bills and receipts dating back to 1998......
I started updating my Train inventory as I went too. I've promised the CEO that I would get all of this organized so that when she's sees what I've really spent, she can kill me and know the value......
You should never hit the total button to know the cost of the hobby.
My wife is a teacher and it is in her DNA to keep one copy of everything. We bought a ScanSnap IX300 scanner and 2-3 weeks later we eliminated about 1000 pounds of paper and got a lot of our storage back.
That is what I am doing with my Lionel Manuals also. Much easier to find vs. digging through a bookshelf and boxes.
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