Ricky looks like you are busy 
here's mine not as clustered but threw in layout picture also. I would say that it is qualifying as deadrail 
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Back in Dec I posted about a pw 682 shell I received w/several parts.
Yesterday I had enough parts and decided to correctly put it back together.
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Salvaged an ATX Power Supply from an old Computer Tower that the rest of it went to an town Electronics Recycling Event. In process of cutting and crimp solderless caps onto unneeded wiring. Plan to mount it under my layout and run wiring to separate terminal strips for 3.3, 5, and 12 Volt DC Power for LED lighting and accessories on my layout. Link below with instructions in case any of you are interested for doing this for your layout or workbench.
Did a little more detailing and lettering on my mow car. Might consider painting the window trim.
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@Trussman posted:Did a little more detailing and lettering on my mow car. Might consider painting the window trim.
Trussman, looking forward to the finished product. That is a very unique project which I’m sure many of us will attempt to replicate. However, you have set the bar rather high. Excellent job and thank you for sharing.
Jay
@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:Trussman, looking forward to the finished product. That is a very unique project which I’m sure many of us will attempt to replicate. However, you have set the bar rather high. Excellent job and thank you for sharing.
Jay
Thanks Tranquil Hollow RR,
I posted these pix how I did the kit bashing a while back.
Made a jig using styrofoam and straight pins to make the railing.
Where the bolts would be in the boards, I poked the boards with a small awl, which after stained w/dark walnut stain and wiped off, the stain will stay in the dimples areas to give the effect of bolts.
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Very nice work, Trussman! Great concept for a work car!
@Gary P posted:Salvaged an ATX Power Supply from an old Computer Tower that the rest of it went to an town Electronics Recycling Event. In process of cutting and crimp solderless caps onto unneeded wiring. Plan to mount it under my layout and run wiring to separate terminal strips for 3.3, 5, and 12 Volt DC Power for LED lighting and accessories on my layout. Link below with instructions in case any of you are interested for doing this for your layout or workbench.
An easier approach is to buy one of these things. They use the 22 or 24 pin connector on the power supply's wiring harness.
https://www.amazon.com/Benchto...dapter/dp/B07KNV2JTJ
There are lots of different versions for sale on Amazon, eBay, and other sites. I've used them and they are really easy-peasy.
Decided to beat my MTH 2500HP Transfer Engine into submission. Ever since I laid my track for the current layout, I haven't been able to run this engine. It ran fine on Fastrack, but no go on Gargraves/Ross track.
Turned out that the problem was somewhat obvious when I got to looking at it closely. The six wheel trucks only have four wheels powered, then there's a pair of "idler" wheels that ride in a slotted hole in the truck to allow vertical travel. However, in a break with the norm for this kind of design, they're flanged wheels, most of the time then this is done, they're blind flangeless wheels!
The problem arises when you go around any curve, the slot allows the wheels to ride up enough for them to hop outside the rail! With a flangeless wheel, this isn't a problem, when you straighten out, the wheel just moves back over the rail and is centered again. However, with a flange on the wheel, the wheel can't just slide back in, so it hangs out there and promptly derails the truck!
Since I have a number of Lionel diesels with six wheel trucks that have the same wheel spacing without this goofy floppy wheel design that run flawlessly, I can't imagine what MTH was trying to accomplish with this kludge.
Here you can see the travel, the flange is actually able to simply swivel out of the rail when it's at the top of it's travel with the remaining wheels in contact with the rail.
Turns out the fix was to pull a wheel and add a couple layers of brass tubing around the axle so that the wheels couldn't move as far upward. I actually used three pieces of brass tubing inside each other, that's what it took to get the spacing right. Now the locomotive cruises around the layout without any problems. I oiled things well to minimize the friction against the truck bottom, and the axle actually spins inside the brass tubing. I wish all fixes in life were this easy! 
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@gunrunnerjohn posted:Decided to beat my MTH 2500HP Transfer Engine into submission. Ever since I laid my track for the current layout, I haven't been able to run this engine. It ran fine on Fastrack, but no go on Gargraves/Ross track.
Nice work John. That's too nice an engine to be a shelf queen.
@RSJB18 posted:Nice work John. That's too nice an engine to be a shelf queen.
Yep, it's a cool and somewhat unique piece, that's why I wanted to get it back on the rails. 
@Bob posted:An easier approach is to buy one of these things. They use the 22 or 24 pin connector on the power supply's wiring harness.
https://www.amazon.com/Benchto...dapter/dp/B07KNV2JTJ
There are lots of different versions for sale on Amazon, eBay, and other sites. I've used them and they are really easy-peasy.
Yes it would be easier to just buy one but since the power supply was still good, and the rest of the dead computer was going to the free town electronics recycling event, I figured it would give me something different to try doing and see if I can make it work. I'm just waiting on the 10 Watt 10 ohm power resistor to be delivered, then I can test it out to see if it works and maybe learn something along the way about it.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:It ran fine on Fastrack, but no go on Gargraves/Ross track.
Nice save John. 
Why was the Cargraves / Ross track a problem when the Fastrack worked OK ?
@Dallas Joseph posted:Nice save John.
Why was the Cargraves / Ross track a problem when the Fastrack worked OK ?
I honestly can't say, but I'm guessing the round top of Fastrack, I don't what else it could be. I know it cruised around my Fastrack in the old house without a problem, and that was on carpet! When I put it on better track in a laser-leveled layout, it derailed on almost every curve! BTW, the curves are O72 and larger as well.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:I honestly can't say, but I'm guessing the round top of Fastrack, I don't what else it could be. I know it cruised around my Fastrack in the old house without a problem, and that was on carpet! When I put it on better track in a laser-leveled layout, it derailed on almost every curve! BTW, the curves are O72 and larger as well.
Seems like a lot of mysteries associated with this hobby John.
If the Cargraves /Ross tracks are flat maybe you are right . The Fastrack being round top might allow a little more tolerance in wheel movement from side to side and being round it could let the flanged wheels slip down inside the rail easier . 
Whatever the case , your solution for your new track was really pretty nice..........one of these days I'm going to have to get a small wheel puller.
Thanks for sharing.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Decided to beat my MTH 2500HP Transfer Engine into submission. Ever since I laid my track for the current layout, I haven't been able to run this engine. It ran fine on Fastrack, but no go on Gargraves/Ross track.
Turned out that the problem was somewhat obvious when I got to looking at it closely. The six wheel trucks only have four wheels powered, then there's a pair of "idler" wheels that ride in a slotted hole in the truck to allow vertical travel. However, in a break with the norm for this kind of design, they're flanged wheels, most of the time then this is done, they're blind flangeless wheels!
John, Norm Charbonneau solved this same problem using a shim on the truck frame instead of building up the idler axel. His video is quite helpful:
@Dallas Joseph posted:Seems like a lot of mysteries associated with this hobby John.
If the Cargraves /Ross tracks are flat maybe you are right . The Fastrack being round top might allow a little more tolerance in wheel movement from side to side and being round it could let the flanged wheels slip down inside the rail easier .
Whatever the case , your solution for your new track was really pretty nice..........one of these days I'm going to have to get a small wheel puller.
Thanks for sharing.
You have to be careful pulling wheels. A small disaster happened pulling the wheel, I cracked one. I knew I had a bunch of scrap trucks with the same wheel, so it was only a minor issue. Someone had been there before me (this was a well used engine when I bought it). They had, for some unknown reason, hammered on the axle ends of the truck idler wheels, perhaps in an attempt to repair the very issue I was having. The result was they were peened over enough that it was impossible to remove the wheel, hence the broken flange. AAMOF, I never did get that wheel off the axle, but to avoid damaging the truck with more extreme measures, I just cut the axle in two and removed the whole affair. I then grabbed another wheelset that hadn't been mutilated and continued on.
Pat (Harmonyards) suggested some machining to put in a brass bearing, that would have been the Cadillac solution, but I was impatient and decided to try my fix.
@Rapid Transit Holmes posted:John, Norm Charbonneau solved this same problem using a shim on the truck frame instead of building up the idler axel. His video is quite helpful:
Same idea, it just seemed easier to me to slip a couple small pieces of brass tubing over the axle and be done with it. However, Norm's solution probably didn't need to remove the wheels, so that was a plus. The real reason was, I thought of the brass tubing first and it worked out. 
Very nice job Trussman. I've seen MOW cars like this before here on the Forum. I really like how you handled the bolts.
Where the bolts would be in the boards, I poked the boards with a small awl, which after stained w/dark walnut stain and wiped off, the stain will stay in the dimples areas to give the effect of bolts.
On my workbench this morn is a test track in the build state. A question comes to mind. I was planning on using tubular o gauge instead of my super O, because I can use an RCS instead of the separate operating blades and magnet that are on my layout. On the RCS, does the uncouple button operate both the magnet and the coil coupler rails? I have a few post war coil coupler cars, and have given some thought to swapping trucks to the magnetic couplers. Your input is appreciated
dick
We moved across country last year and I haven't really organized anything and is not neat and orderly like I like...so today, I started by adding a couple of shelves in a closet in our "craft room". Going to add 1 or 2 more and organize my inventory so I know what I have and what I "need". Going to organize by freight car type, ie, Milk Cars, Pulpwood Cars, Boxcars, etc. Not close to being organized yet, but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I have stuff still in totes and whatnot from the move. My goal is to only have larger boxes on the closet floor and all rolling stock on shelves.
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I recently had a gear replaced on one truck by Chuck Sartor (great service) and got it put back together last night. Nice to have her back up and running, it's been broken for a couple of years.
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I dropped this engine from 3+ feet onto carpet when the shell separated from the chasis...dont' ask. 
I tried to run it after a few choice words, but only the deisel start up smoke fan would run, but the engine wouldn't start, move, no lights... A few more choice words. Went to sleep. Took it apart again today, Checked plugs, wiring etc. Everything seemed to be as it should be. Tried again to run it on my test track. It responded conventionally but not using TMCC. Then I tried BlueTooth. Success. It was like a miracle! It started and responded to all Bluetooth commands. I then moved to my layout and, it would not respond to Legacy. I tried again with BlueTooth...it worked. I shut everything down, cycled the track power, and now, it's running normally in Legacy. I have no idea what I may have done poking around inside this morning, but "it ain't broke (now) and I will not fix it." Well, not quite, the drop did bend some nose guard rails that I'll try to straighten out.
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@ToledoEd posted:I dropped this engine from 3+ feet onto carpet when the shell separated from the chasis...dont' ask.
I have the first run of the Lionel UP Veranda turbine from years ago. Muy heavy. You didn't mention it, but some may not realize that these Lionel Verandas have die-cast shells, unlike the MTH version, which has a plastic shell (NOT a criticism), so the weight and kinetic energy stored when this thing hit the floor is painful to think about.
Must truly be built like a tank, inside and out, since it "healed" itself.
Well, he did say the shell separated from the chassis, so I'm presuming he was left holding the shell. Dropping from three feet onto carpet for the diecast shell shouldn't be a huge risk.
John, both, shell and chassis hit the floor...I'm not sure why I let go of the shell when the chassis started the free fall, all I can think of is my brain thought, 'save the important stuff' and I let go of the shell while watching the goodies hit the floor. D500, yes it's a beast. Heavy stuff.
Why drop one when you can drop both of them! 
225e with Bubba ized motor two 2224 tender shells looking for tender frames and cast whistles... building one as a 2235w the other as 2245w
Another bench projedt is my 403 switcher consisting of a 201 / 203 motor 1665 boiler needing replacement markers and moving the e-unit slot Looking for my basket case 1946 726 hopefully to be returned to operating condition. Have my box of electronic control receivers may make it a never sold electronic berkshire
since I had decent luck with the first Natty Boh GP9…
I decided it neede a sister locomotive.
Found this UP GP9 reasonably priced and went to work removing hand rails, and prepping for repaint
Next two are out of sequence.
White base coat first. The tape off and Colonial Red applied
another tape job, and black added on areas of roof.
Below finished project.
Only a caboose left to do.
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Here are the 2 225e s I am working on. One was a boiler and steamchest swap as the pilot was ctound down and the cross piece under the cab was just plain gone. Loco 2 motor was Bubba ized needs serious TLC and the boiler has a bad "broom" paint job to be stripped and redone to satin black.
One tender shell I see is genuine Lionel the other questionable as it has a cast in coal pile. Still need 2 frames and 2 cast whistles
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I have been working on adding auxiliary air tanks to my MTH Mikado. The Duluth Missabe and Iron Rang Railroad (DM&RR) added them to several road locomotives in order to increase air capacity and to get the air filters further away from ore dust. A long string of short ore jennies has more wheels to break/release than a similar length train with standard length cars thus, the need for more air! It gives these workhorse a more rugged look. I like the look! Had to position the new tanks behind the sand dome instead of in front, which would be correct for the prototype. Hey, we are running on 3-rails and lashing up our trains with big “Lobster-claw” couplers, so you can’t hurt my feelings for the deviation! After a 48 hour cure, I will give the tanks a final finish coat and permanently mount them to the boiler.
Still managing to put off the process of weathering!!
Cheers, Dave
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@Jim M Sr posted:I decided it neede a sister locomotive.
Found this UP GP9 reasonably priced and went to work removing hand rails, and prepping for repaint
Below finished project.
Realy nice looking job Jim.
Where do you get your decals ? 🤔 They look great.
Strasburgs recently acquired CN86 about ready to help out #89 just in time for the busy summer season.
Pete
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Dallas Joseph,
Realy nice looking job Jim.
Where do you get your decals ? 🤔 They look great.
Thank you.
I made the decals from pictures I found on line. Copy and paste into “Word” then adjusted the size. Used ink jet printer, so they had to be sealed before wetting and applying.
Engine numbers on the side are dry transfers.
I needed a few of these trucks for some pw slope back tenders I was working on, they seemed to be a little hard to find by themselves, so....... I decided to stock up and wire them up.
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Are you fitting out the front truck with a roller as well? I would fit both trucks with rollers and add a 3rd wire to the locomotive as was the pre-war Magic Electrol locos 201 and 1663 except wiring 3rd wire to carry center reail to the loco as switchers may have an issue of stalling on switches and crossings ir not locate magic electrol relays to add magic electrol to postwar
Waiting for the glue to dry on the paper relay shed! Still a work in progress! 8-)
Jim K
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@Ed Samsen posted:Are you fitting out the front truck with a roller as well? I would fit both trucks with rollers and add a 3rd wire to the locomotive as was the pre-war Magic Electrol locos 201 and 1663 except wiring 3rd wire to carry center reail to the loco as switchers may have an issue of stalling on switches and crossings ir not locate magic electrol relays to add magic electrol to postwar
What I've noticed on all the 6403b (14) & 2403b (3) tenders I've worked on did not come w/a roller on the front trucks. The roller on the rear truck is for the bell and the flying shoe on the rear truck is for the coil couple on the tender and also that wire goes to the left female plug in the cab of the engine which goes to the front coil coupler on the engine and the other wire connects from the ground in the tender up to the right female plug in the cab of the engine for a better ground.
