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Thank you Dallas and Mark.

In answer to Dallas's questions, it was low 60s and Sunny ere in Myrtle Beach yesterday.  Winds, which are usually a problem, even 4 miles from the beach, were slight.  I was just using cardboard boxes in the past to act as a spray booth.  It helped with the wind but would contain the overspray until it settled.  That made for very "sticky" and sometimes colorful arms.  I've since bought a collapsible one with a screen in the back wall that permits air flow through the booth.  I can use a fan and filter if need be .  I'll get some pictures later.

Joe that must be nice with that temp.   We have 43 this afternoon with sun ,but a little breezy.

Sounds like a great solution for spray mist........except for the  RR. colors on your arms .    What is the paint media you are using to get your arms " sticky ".     Right now I have been using waterbase kraft colors and  the original media Tamiya colors with no arm decor.

I do however have a table top dust colector with a hepa filter.  It has 3 fans about 5 " round.   I can't recall what brand .  I'll have to get a photo of it .

My therapist had me walk up and down the 14 steps today so I'll be able to get to the layout by myself if I can follow the rules.   Pretty big thing seeing the layout room again. 

To quote from The Hunt For Red October, "Way to go Dallas!"

I've been using rattle can spray paint.  Two years ago I painted some patio chairs that had rusted.  Used two extra large moving boxes cut and tape together so a chair would fit in and be out of the wind.  I was wearing short sleeves and apparently the residual paint in suspension in the air inside the box was coating my airs.  I could feel it on the hair on my arms long before I could see the color, black, build up on my hair and skin.  I wore long sleeves and nitrile gloves after that. Safety glasses and a particulate dust mask to catch any pigments were part of my safety equipment.

Dallas I promised you photos so here they are.  I didn't pop it open but you can get the idea.  This is the small one.  The catalog I bought this from also had the medium and the large.  Its 35"w x 30"d x 39"h.  In the first picture you can see the 20 x 20 x 1 Merv 8 air filter.  This and the exterior fan are separate sale items.  The Merv 8 is the the most expensive of the 3 levels offered in the big box stores.

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@coach joe posted:

Dallas I promised you photos so here they are.  I didn't pop it open but you can get the idea.  This is the small one.  The catalog I bought this from also had the medium and the large.  Its 35"w x 30"d x 39"h.  In the first picture you can see the 20 x 20 x 1 Merv 8 air filter.  This and the exterior fan are separate sale items.  The Merv 8 is the the most expensive of the 3 levels offered in the big box stores.

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Thanks for all the info and photos Joe.        It certainly looks like you have this painting process and safety issue covered......and from the looks of what you have been painting everything looks professionally done .

Have fun and good luck with the continued  nice springlike weather.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Joe, nice spray shelter!  I need to get a new spraying mask, mine must be 35 years old.  I have a plastic spray booth that is that old too, but it is rather small.  I use spray cans too.  

Dallas, congratulations on the 14 steps.  

Steve, I’ll say it is half full.  Your scene looks great.

Thanks Mark.    Can't wait to get back to maintainence on the engines.  Who knew that would be FUN.

Hey Joe......'The Hunt For Red October '  ???.........  ( one of my all time  favorite movies )

Joe that must be nice with that temp.   We have 43 this afternoon with sun ,but a little breezy.

Sounds like a great solution for spray mist........except for the  RR. colors on your arms .    What is the paint media you are using to get your arms " sticky ".     Right now I have been using waterbase kraft colors and  the original media Tamiya colors with no arm decor.

I do however have a table top dust colector with a hepa filter.  It has 3 fans about 5 " round.   I can't recall what brand .  I'll have to get a photo of it .

My therapist had me walk up and down the 14 steps today so I'll be able to get to the layout by myself if I can follow the rules.   Pretty big thing seeing the layout room again. 

Therapist? 14 steps? What gives Dallas?

Did I miss a post?

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Therapist? 14 steps? What gives Dallas?

Did I miss a post?

Bob

Well Bob......blew out a siderod on the left .

Last Friday morning a surgeon had me on HIS WORKBENCH to get a new hip on the left side this time.  I tried to talk to him about using CA glue but he won out with 27 staples. 

The visiting physical therapist instructed me how I'll have to get down the 14 steps past the 7 dwarfs ...................Screenshot_20230320-225442...............to get to the train room.

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Well Bob......blew out a siderod on the left .

Last Friday morning a surgeon had me on HIS WORKBENCH to get a new hip on the left side this time.  I tried to talk to him about using CA glue but he won out with 27 staples.

The visiting physical therapist instructed me how I'll have to get down the 14 steps past the 7 dwarfs ..................................to get to the train room.

Well glad you are on the mend. I've heard hip recoveries are easier than knees. Did the therapist wonder why you were so anxious to get down the stairs?????

Another comment on the soldering video. I giggled during the scene when the guy lit the torch and placed in it the hook at high flame. I can almost guarantee that those wall panels were asbestos. Amazing how common it was to use that stuff back in the day.

@coach joe- that spray booth is neat. I will need to pick one up on my next HD run.

Bob

@RSJB18 posted:

Well glad you are on the mend. I've heard hip recoveries are easier than knees. Did the therapist wonder why you were so anxious to get down the stairs?????

Another comment on the soldering video. I giggled during the scene when the guy lit the torch and placed in it the hook at high flame. I can almost guarantee that those wall panels were asbestos. Amazing how common it was to use that stuff back in the day.

The therapist said  "wow that's really neat "  and well .......she is a PT .    I do think she kind of understood that the gleam in my eyes was important though .

Asbestos walls are something that has gone by the wayside Bob.........but there were a couple times in MY trainroom that it wouldn't have been frowned on by my Lady......and "  that's all I have to say about that " .

I'm going to try to get a TET post out sometime today........and NOT from my photo files.

Wrapped up my upgrade of a Williams scale GG1.  I got it with a Cruise Commander installed and the original owner had used the now extinct ERR Sound Converter to retain the Williams True Blast Plus board for sound.  It also had just the basic two Williams light bulbs, not very appealing.

I stripped everything and re-installed.  I had one of the GG1 VL cabs still hanging around, so I figured I'd use it, it has lighted gauges, very cool.  It got all LED lighting, individually lit markers, cab lighting, and lighted gauges.  I used the standard ERR GG1/EP5 sound board and the cruise commander that came with it for the installation.

All connections between the shell and chassis are on one 5-pin connector, this makes it real easy to crack it open to work on it if necessary.

Williams GG1 #4859Williams GG1 Chassis Wiring

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Williams GG1 Lighting Wiring

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Just wrapping up my first diesel conversion to full Legacy.  A couple more LED's to install and it's testing time.

MTH F59PH Legacy Conversion

Hey John....

Was this a pre-configured kit or something you were able to cobble together using available parts from Lionel?

I'm guessing one would have to have a pretty hefty background in electronics in order to custom assemble such a kit?

@Junior posted:

Hey John....

Was this a pre-configured kit or something you were able to cobble together using available parts from Lionel?

I'm guessing one would have to have a pretty hefty background in electronics in order to custom assemble such a kit?

Junior, Thank you for asking John for some more details.  I can say this, I worked 43 years in electronics, and I’m a neophyte when compared to John!!  👍🏻👍🏻

@Junior posted:

Hey John....

Was this a pre-configured kit or something you were able to cobble together using available parts from Lionel?

I'm guessing one would have to have a pretty hefty background in electronics in order to custom assemble such a kit?

This was just a collection of parts from my parts stash.  I had to make all the wiring harness myself.  Some valuable reference material is Bruk's excellent Legacy documents that are posted in this post: Bruk's RCMC/BEMC/RSLITE Documentation.

I had previously made my RCMC tester, I was able to sort out all the boards I had and see what was good and not good.

Building a Lionel RCMC Board Test Fixture

Since I now had known good boards, I decided to do an upgrade or two with them.

I just finished a NE5 caboose in the older Boston and Maine colors. It started life as a Lionel New Haven caboose. The different roads used very similar cabooses, including, I believe, the PRR. Photo documentation was difficult to come by. I wanted the older “end of steam” era paint scheme of red on red with the black roof.

Lionel did this model in the scheme I desired, but they are nearly impossible to find, plus I wanted a model with the smoke Jack further away from the cupola than the Lionel version had

I disassembled the car and instead of stripping the entire body, I was able to gently sand down the old lettering and apply a coat of dark red to the sides. The end panels were a slightly brighter red. Decaling was done using some K-4 B&M coal hopper sets, mainly to obtain a close to proper size Minuteman logo. The caboose went back together with repainted handrails.


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The caboose was modeled to go with a B&M 2-6-0 I recently painted…

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Tom

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Opened up a Williams BL2 and changed it to series wiring. Since Williams used JST plugs, I just pulled the pins out of the plug bodies and used a small piece of wire to connect them together. Easy to convert back to parallel in the future should the need arise.

2023-04-01 15.24.49

Added a P-touch label to the bottom so that my empty head doesn't have to try and remember......

2023-04-01 15.48.50

Bob

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Workbench updates.  I showed this photo of a K-Line gondola with the accessory high ends and floor after I painted them and added them.

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Well upon closer inspection with the floor installed the high ends rode a little higher than they should have.IMG_2052IMG_2053

The underside of the floor shows why.  These little "feet" had to go. 

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A few quick strokes with a razor saw and we have a better fit.IMG_2055IMG_2056

The foam cradle had to be altered

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@coach joe posted:

Back again with NYC streamliners.  This time the Lionel traditional ones.  While waiting for appropriate weather to paint the replacement roof for the above vista dome I pulled out some of my older 16xxx series streamliners and somrthings missing.

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Yes sir, the white stripes above and below the windows. Ah I have some white pinstripe tape! Nope too wide.  Oh wait that white artist drafting tape!   Nope too wide!  I've got to figure this out because I don't think I'm steady enough to paint them.  I've got two more in another box.  So finish 3 projects, come up with 5 more.  This is great!

So I couldn't come up with any appropriately sized pinstriping tape so I had to paint the stripes. I found a chisel tip paint marker and like Bob suggested I masked off the rest of the car.  But Like I said had I tried to spray the stripes after masking those stripes would have bled into places they didn't belong.IMG_2064IMG_2065IMG_2066IMG_2067

I was happy with how the stripes came out and pulled out the 7012 vista dome that I replaced the roof with a coach roof to compare how they looked.  Well the stripes passed visual inspection, HOWEVER, the following photos show coupler height issues that will almost certainly lead to uncoupling cars on anything but perfectly laid track.  I guess nothing ever leaves my workbench.

The 6-16xxx series passenger cars are LTI early 1990s production.  The 6-35100,Manhattan vista dome #7012 is Lionel LLC late 2000s production.  I guess one should expect these discrepancies in cars manufactured almost 20 years apart but the height difference between the 16021 and 16041 are from the same production run.  Does anyone have any suggesting on how to rectify this situation, or at least prevent uncoupling?

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