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I am trying to find out what the best ceiling lighting would work best for my trainroom.

 

I have a 20'x20' building with 10' high ceiling.  The walls are stained T111 plywood and the ceiling is natural colored plywood.   The layout height is 42".

 

I currently have flouresent lighting in place from when I used this as a woodworking shop. 

 

I am looking to have dimmable flood or spot track lighting (preferably low voltage) that will give me a warm looking light that will also help highlight more of layout details.

 

What I am clueless about (among many other things) is the type of track light fixtures, lamps, wattage, flood or spot lamps that would be best for the desired effect.

 

I know the best time to have done this was before the layout was built.  But my wife said we needed any extra money to go towards paying college tuition bills.  She didn't want the princess to be left with any college debt. Go figure!

 

I would really appreciate any advice.

 

Thanks,

Ed

 

 

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In my view, a well designed track light system is the best way to go if the room and layout do not conflict.

At the club we are installing track lighting this summer in anticipation of the layout rebuild next summer.

The main features are the track is over the aisle walkways, with the heads aiming into the layout. This way, you are not looking into lights or the shadow side of any structures/ scenery. Anywhere you look from you will see a well lit layout.

We will be using dimmable LED BR30 bulbs, in warm white.

Another feature , we are using a double circuit track. So 1 circuit will have white lights, the second circuit will be blue gels over the fixtures. The entire track light system is divided into three sections, so we will be able to simulate night moving across the layout and building by use of dimmers.

Will gladly share more information.  

I used fluorescent lighting for overall illumination, but will add track lighting to highlight key areas.  Proper room lighting is one of the most over looked area of layout design in my opinion.  I'm sure some will say that fluorescent lights will fade the paint and maybe it will.  But having adequate lighting levels is very important for enjoying your trains and critical for good photography.  Make sure you have the right color temperature for your lights too.  I chose 3,000K for my fluorescent lights to more closely replicate sun light and not that white, hospital look of many fluorescent lighting.  

 

Good luck.

 

Art

We went this route (The PAR38 big ones on the right) with a vaulted ceiling. 30+ light cans, and on a dimmer. It looks like daylight in the train room when it's time to work. They are dimmable CFL's and are now about 3 1/2 years old. You can get LED's now for the same price we paid for these back then. They key is to use something dimmable.

 

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When I built my train room I removed the can lights in the drop ceiling and went with surface mount swivel spots.  Originally they had halogen bulbs in them but I changed those out to dimmable LED bulbs. I can move them if I want more or less light on a section and they are extremely handy when I'm working on something on the layout I can put the light right where I need it!  I also have them on dimmers to bring out the lights and signs on the layout. 

In my last train room I had track lighting and I added some blue rope lights around the top of the room for a night time effect. Wish I could of split the track lighting into 2 circuits, one for regular and one for low light effect, but the slanted ceiling was almost 14 feet in some areas.

 

Now I have a flat ceiling and I am looking into the lighting for my new train room. Will have to wait until done moving everything in.

 

Lee Fritz

I currently have 4' fluorescent fixtures with 5000k bulbs. My eyes don't work as well as they used to and lots of light helps when working on something. I don't know if they fade the paint on the trains or not? Haven't noticed any fading in about 3-4 years, but the lights are only on when I am in the rain area.   

 

Some dimmable track lighting may be added later on, if my layout ever becomes worthy of something nice in the way of lighting. I would probably use LED's with the track lighting for energy savings, heat reduction and longevity. We have almost converted the whole house upstairs to LEDs.

The leds seem like the way to go although they are still a little pricey. Heat is a factor  here in Georgia so leds are even more attractive.

 

Regardless of the type of lamps, how do I figure out how many lamps I need to cover a given area. Since it will be track lighting I guess I can just add more as needed. I am just trying to figure out approximate costs for some of the ideas posted. 

 

I will be keeping the fluorescents as work lights.  The track lights will be a seperate circuit and are simply for a softer look.

 

Thanks,

Ed

My train building has skylights. I mostly work on trains during the day so I don't worry too much about artificial light. Right now I'm using the lights on the ceiling fans but I do plan to put in track lighting eventually.

 

Since your trains are in a separate, above-ground building, you might want to think about skylights. They give a bright, diffused, natural light that's great for working on the layout. Whether they are worthwhile depends on how much sunlight you get and how much time you spend in the train room during the day vs. at night. 

Check this site out......

http://www.conservationmart.co...-br40-led-3000k.aspx

 

Those are pricey but......blasters!   2550 lumens.   About a year ago, I went with their 1600lumen 25K WW bulb. I have 3 in cans above my layout. Bright and dimmable. Before I settled on them, I bought the 2500lumen 50K bulbs. Extremely bright, but it made my train room look like a hospital operating room. Some folks like that....I felt it was too sterile for my tastes and swapped them for the WW bulbs. The prices come down all the time and they get brighter and brighter bulbs. 

 

Roger

Ed,  How did it turn out?

All; I have a 12x12 room with an overhead ceiling fan/light (the fan is a given down here in Atlanta)  The layout is an around the room double track.  I have already installed a 2nd circuit for track lights.  Time to decide which system to purchase, the relative location on the ceiling, and the type of lights. 

I did recessed lighting with LED bulbs not because one was better than the other it  was the power draw and due to there longevity it would be many years before I would change them so no climbing on my layout to reach them I had other lighting in my old house and when they went out it was a major problem getting to them and when I built my new train room I did not want to happen so I took the plunge also the fact that they were dimmable was a added feature  

When we built our house, I went with fluorescents for the basement.  Why?  First it is a large room, 2400 square feet, so it would take a huge number of track lights.  Also halogens or incadenscents generate a lot of heat and here in Arizona we try not to do that!  LED's did not exist at that time, but again the number of fixtures might be overwhelming.

So, it was four foot fixtures with daylight bulbs and UV protection film laid in the fixture covers.  It has worked well over the years.  Yes, not dimable, but I've added blue rope lights around the perimeter of the table which cast a nice blue glow onto the ceiling for nighttime operations.  And frankly, there are plenty of lights on the layout, so nighttime runs look pretty good with the lights off anyway.

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In my new train room, since I moved in May of 2015, I have installed 2 rows of track lighting with 4 light fixtures on each and rope lights near the top of the room. The track lighting is being used for night time effect with black lights in the fixtures, each row since I have 2 are on separate switches with wire-mold(a form of conduit) from the switches to the track lighting. The cost of the track lighting was around $265.00 for all the lights, wire, and wire-mold stuff I used. Also added some small night light sized fixtures with blue incandescent bulbs to help with some lighting in the corners.

My other lighting is from the ceiling fan with compact fluorescent lights.

Update on doing work in train room, got some drywall replaced(it had mold, so no more mold) and need to paint it before I start work on my main layout.

Lee Fritz

David,

I made the decision to go with track led lighting for a number of reasons.   No discernible heat output (I also live in Georgia so I don't need to add any more heat to the room in the summer).  Leds are now dimable and they should last a lifetime time so I won't need to be changing them.   My building was originally built for my woodworking and I installed fluorescent lighting, which worked well for that purpose.

I got side tracked with some medical roadblocks so I never did get the lights put in.  But thankfully I am doing well and actually in the process of shopping for the best deals on led fixtures and track hardware.  

I am still kind of in the dark as to the size and type of led bulbs to use.   Hopefully someone who has gone the led route can add some advice as to the best ones to use.

Thanks,

Ed

Ed, look around at different stores or websites and see what is out there. For LED's you can probably get them with regular screw in bases so you can use regular track lighting system. I don't have any experience with LED's, so I can't comment on them.

From my personal use of CFL's I have found they burn out rather quickly, sometimes last up to 2 years and quit. The CFL lights are not as good as the companies say they are for long life, they last about two/thirds the life of a regular incandescent light bulb.

Lee Fritz

Haven't there been reports of the CFL's causing migraines because of the flickering light, the uncovered spiral pieces being worse. Guessing they give off UV like tubes, yet unlike tube fluorescent bulbs it is much harder to shield then? Went with Daylight tubes for normal ops and blue for night.

 

Last edited by BobbyD

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