Tom
Didn't see the LGB on the side. so here is an fastrack version
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Alan, That is perfect!
Tom
The LGB VERSION has an anchor Nub. I left that out because my engineering background says that that nub is not a sufficient anchorage.
Instead, I will add a connected side panel with a track screw hole.
That will provide much better anchorage to the track.
Also I will make this universal for Fastrack and Atlas, Ross and Gargraves track.
Alan, yours will be perfect for any rail we have. How will we be able to order them?
Tom
@AlanRail - Received my 5 sets for FasTrack. Thank you!
Noticed there are 2 different types. Confused which way they are supposed to be used. Does the rough edge go inward (towards where the wheels would be) or does the smooth side go toward where the wheels would touch them?
I also noticed in either direction the holes do not match the holes in the FasTrack. Is that correct or did I receive the wrong wheel stops?
Thanks.
@paulp575 posted:@AlanRail - Received my 5 sets for FasTrack. Thank you!
Noticed there are 2 different types. Confused which way they are supposed to be used. Does the rough edge go inward (towards where the wheels would be) or does the smooth side go toward where the wheels would touch them?
I also noticed in either direction the holes do not match the holes in the FasTrack. Is that correct or did I receive the wrong wheel stops?
Thanks.
You need #4 Wood screws to attach to FT base. To determine L&R, Thicker half goes to the inside to catch the largest part of the wheels.
They are fantastic.
Thanks Alan,
John
@Craftech posted:You need #4 Wood screws to attach to FT base. To determine L&R, Thicker half goes to the inside to catch the largest part of the wheels.
They are fantastic.
Thanks Alan,
John
2 questions:
1. The screws go through the wheel stop AND the FT?
2. Round head or flat head #4 screws (I don't know off the top of my head the length of #4 wood screws).
Thanks
@paulp575 posted:2 questions:
1. The screws go through the wheel stop AND the FT?
2. Round head or flat head #4 screws (I don't know off the top of my head the length of #4 wood screws).
Thanks
The screws go through the pre-drilled holes. The head sits flush inside the hole. The wood screw threads cut threads into the plastic roadbed in the same manner that self-tapping sheet metal screws do. You need around 1" to 1 1/4" long #4 wood screws. I couldn't find #4 sheet metal screws that long so I opted for the wood screws. Flat head.
If I wanted the stops to be flush with the end of a 10" section (just before a FT bumper section) you would have to cut down the height of the fake ties flush with the roadbed to make the wheel stops sit level because they only rest on a single tie when they are all the way at the end of a section.
If that is not your requirement you can span two ties so it sits level.
John
correct. the screws I designed this for are the Gargrave Track screws.
The length is the height of the Fastrack plus the wheel stop and the depth of how much you want to go into the support below. These screws come in various lengths from Trainworld or other hobby stores.
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