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@Dave_C posted:

Just a thought. Most interiors are kind of on the smooth side seeing it’s color is in the mold of the plastic. Paint has a hard time grabbing and sticking on smooth surfaces. It helps to have some tooth. Wondering if the entire interior was being painted. Maybe a light coat of model primer  may help the paint cover better.

You hit the nail on the head Dave, …..I use gray scotchbrite pads and scrub the interiors in the sink with a drop of dawn dish soap,….does two things, …scuffs the surface for bite, and cleans any mold release agents clinging on for dear life……

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

You hit the nail on the head Dave, …..I use gray scotchbrite pads and scrub the interiors in the sink with a drop of dawn dish soap,….does two things, …scuffs the surface for bite, and cleans any mold release agents clinging on for dear life……

Pat

I would if I could.

In my case the coaches have wiring already installed, special trucks and couplers that are hot melted to a swivel lever and I would have to remove all of it to wash or even spray paint the walls and the rest of the floor.  A section comes out with seats that partially covers the floor.  I could only wash and spray paint that part.

John

@Craftech posted:

I would if I could.

In my case the coaches have wiring already installed, special trucks and couplers that are hot melted to a swivel lever and I would have to remove all of it to wash or even spray paint the walls and the rest of the floor.  A section comes out with seats that partially covers the floor.  I could only wash and spray paint that part.

John

I’d recommend get good with an air brush, and deliver pin point accuracy,….

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

I’d recommend get good with an air brush, and deliver pin point accuracy,….

Pat

Pat,

How would you airbrush this?

20221019_10282120221019_103144

The plastic pivot attached to the coupler box is melted in place to hold it (Look right behind the door).   Next to the door is the spot I tested with artist's acrylic.  Believe it or not that is TWO coats with a brush.

John

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@Craftech posted:

Pat,

How would you airbrush this?

20221019_10282120221019_103144

The plastic pivot attached to the coupler box is melted in place to hold it (Look right behind the door).   Next to the door is the spot I tested with artist's acrylic.  Believe it or not that is TWO coats with a brush.

John

This is what I’d do, …..lightly scuff those side walls with scotchbrite, use a microfiber rag slightly damp with alcohol to wipe down the walls, then use an airbrush to apply your color,……if you hold that shell at different angles, you’ll see you’ll be able to fire paint into that shell,….if you don’t want color on the outside, mask off the windows and the out side shell from overspray ……you could even mask off window and door openings from the inside, to prevent streaking to the outside,…..then when you remove the mask, you should be able to touch up any missed places on the inside with a Qtip etc, …..I don’t see where a little overspray is gonna hurt your mechanical wonder you have  on the floor of that car…..

Pat

Last edited by harmonyards

What Pat says. You can paint a fine line with an airbrush. The minimal overspray shouldn’t bother anything. If you don’t have an airbrush and the color you want is available in a rattle can. A bit of work. You can cut inner walls out of thin styrene and paint. Then attach with the glue of your choice to the walls. The window area may require some thought. But the baggage end wouldn’t be hard to do.

Thanks guys.  I used to have an airbrush set and compressor made by Paasche years ago (when my hands were steadier), but it was stolen.

I picked up some Krylon Fusion cans of spray paint in a variety of suitable colors.  I have used it in the past to restore the plastic clamshell top of a Coleman Versa Trailer.  It worked really well and stuck permanently.

In terms of adding any thickness to the walls the roof with it's built in window bezel wouldn't fit if I did that.  It is a tight fit already.

20221019_142458

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