Which cleaner best for sticky e-unit?

While nothing beats a proper disassembly and cleaning, the CRC contact cleaner is best. The Radio Shack tuner cleaner has OIL in it and can cause more issues. OIL attracks dirt and fouls brushes.

Rob

I second the CDC QD Contact Cleaner. Also, it states on the label that it is plastic safe.

CRC no question. Use it all the time.  Solves a lot of problems without tearing anything apart.

oldrob posted:

While nothing beats a proper disassembly and cleaning, the CRC contact cleaner is best. The Radio Shack tuner cleaner has OIL in it and can cause more issues. OIL attracks dirt and fouls brushes.

Rob

CRC located at Walmart back in the automotive section

Sticking e-unit in what kind of loco? Sometimes they hang up from residual magnetism. I modified a Lionel e-unit with a spring or weight (I forget exactly) to help the plunger drop when power was cut. Tried de-magnetizing the parts without succcess. My Marx 333 e-unit needed dis-assembly to clean it out and get it cycling reliably. Contact cleaner is the first thing to try.

2 biggest things I find with E-units sticking is #1 the plate has become magnetized to the point where it sticks to the bottom of the coil and #2 somebody puts oil in it and then it sticks due to surface tension in the oil

Concur with CRC contact cleaner - blast it good, the drum, and the piston.

Never heard of CRC cleaner before.  I've been using Radio shack cleaner (which I bought back when we actually had a Radio Shack), and I've become aware of its shortcomings.  I'll pick up a can of CRC tomorrow.  Thanks!

2 biggest things I find with E-units sticking is #1 the plate has become magnetized to the point where it sticks to the bottom of the coil and #2 somebody puts oil in it and then it sticks due to surface tension in the oil

Are you thinking of whistle relays?
E-units don't have a moving plate.

Sometimes the e-unit drums develop grooves at the base of their teeth. The groove allows the pawl to wedge itself in the up position.
Also, on some locomotives, the e-unit is positioned between the motor's side plates. The pin that holds the pawl to the e-unit's plunger can rub against whatever muck is on the inside of the motor plates, impeding motion.
I had one modern era loco that had the ends of that pin cut roughly, and it was just a bit too long. Cleaning up the ends of the pin resolved a sticky e-unit on that piece.

I agree with CW.  Drums that see a lot of use will develop a notch at the base of the tooth.  An E-xato  knife can be used to trim the tooth to eliminate the notch.  On stubborn e-units I use 1/2 of a 671 horizontal e-unit spring to assist the pawl to drop.  CRC Lectra Motive cleaner and a sprits of silicone spray may also help.

It's worth the $3 investment in the e-unit spreader tool and learn how to take these things apart and either clean the parts directly or replace them with new. I avoided doing that for a long time, but now......I look forward to the challenge (of getting it back together without 3 hands).

Roger

It's worth the $3 investment in the e-unit spreader tool and learn how to take these things apart and either clean the parts directly or replace them with new.

The best single tool I've purchased for trains has to be the e-unit spreader. I've tried a number of the other tools recommended for opening up an e-unit, like the horseshoe clip pliers, and find that the spreader works better for me. I have the Lionel e-unit vise, and one or two aftermarket versions. I don't use them, I find that holding the e-unit in my hand works best.

Like Jon G, if the notches aren't too bad, I clean them up. Haven't tried using an Xacto knife, I use a small file.

I keep e-unit renewal parts on hand.

it's not so important what cleaner you use as long as it doesn't leave any oil residue as this will cause the units to stick as mentioned above!

But I have had the best luck with CRC cleaning fluids that DO NOT LEAVE ANY RESIDUE as I said earlier!!

hope this helps

Alan

I have been using a pair of articulated snap ring pliers (for increased leverage) to open e-units for over 20 years.  Tweezers to position the drum and after aligning the spacer squeeze the sides together with strong fingers to snap it together.

That product has fixed more of my  engines plus a host of other things than anything else. Works great taking labels and other glues items too. But be careful on plastics.

I don't doubt the wear mentioned, coil tube liners wear, teeth gouge, etc. but....

    Despite popular belief, an ACv coil and plunger set can become magnetic and stick. The magnetic field pole change does not always prevent it. I always assumed it was from "pounding"steel to steel, turning the high iron content steel into a very good magnet ( would be better still without any pole changes). Although there is often a bumper of rubber or nylon, they wear, and fall out, or jam up the plunge depth. This problem can be found in washing machines, skee-ball games, pinball machines (usually half rectified, but there were a couple ac), automotive starter solenoids, Lionel trains, and my junk box.(to name a few offhand)

  The offending plate does not move. None do on the e-unit. But the plunger does move. It is the lower plate on this E-unit (matt's #1) For an out the bottom E-unit MPC, DT&I switcher. Now, after sitting in a pile of steel for 6 years, it barely sticks, have to push it there slow, then it pulls to a lock. The only significant wear are two tiny dots where the pawl stops by hitting the bottom plate. It may just be steel dust on the plate (magnetic) I can't reach it, & I'm out of Q-tips.

For fun, a pin on a thread. Points to the u-shaped coil mount's top(&rivet) but just barely; its sides have a slightly stronger pull, holds the pin but I can rattle it off pretty easy. Bottom plate pulls well and sticks enough a good rattle has no effect, but banging the heel of my hand it knocks loose. Bottom sides (drum plates) Highly magnetic, took four hard heel bangs to knock all but the pin-head loose, it's tip rebounded back in the magnetic field, and the whole pin is stuck once again.

The plunger and pawl have little if any magnetism.(no thread, fingers) 

A weak magnet on the rivet and the plunger sticks hard, light heel bang frees it.

  Removed for sticking too, but mostly for heat weakened spring action of the toasty fingers loosing contact (came that way)

  On another, many years ago, the plunger was too long and bottomed out striking the top (or rivet?). Gramps added new fingers, a dressed drum (ready drawer full),  a spring for behind the plunger, or above the pawl?  and another to the smoke piston since it was apart  (pretty sure that was my 2037, or lil bro's 655, but may have been Dads train[gone] I'll look ..soon (late night now & sleepers are home).

Hey folks - bringing this thread back to life.  Trying to remedy a sticky e-unit in a Marx 1666 (circa early 70s model).  Quick question on this thread as I've seen both CRC products mentioned:  QD Electronics Cleaner - AND - Lectra Motive Cleaner.  They both seem very similar.  I realize the QD cleaner might be marketed more for electrical connectors, etc.  Bottom line is, what's the difference?  I see reference to both here.  Are they interchangeable?

Thanks and Happy Holidays.