How to Lubricate Rolling Stock Axles?

Pete, Menard's cars REQUIRE lubrication!  I personally use 5W20 motor oil, cheap and effective.  There are countless opinions on what lube to use, but by all means, do lube the axles!  The rolling resistance will be cut way down with proper lubrication, similar to the old post-war cars.

Thanks John! Would you recommend applying with just a Q-Tip? If not what may work better?

Cheers, Pete

@PilotPete posted:

Thanks John! Would you recommend applying with just a Q-Tip? If not what may work better?

Cheers, Pete

Try and purchase a needle point oiler. However, in the meantime, a drop or two on the end of a toothpick works OK.

Great, thanks!

Cheers, Pete

I'm with HW, I have a couple of needle-point oilers I use.  I have a really light oil in one and the 5W20 in the other one.

Are these needle point oilers available at Menards or Home Depot in store? It looks like these are available on-line but I wouldn't mind picking one up when I pick up the 5W20 oil. This seems like a good idea.

Cheers, Pete

@PilotPete posted:

Are these needle point oilers available at Menards or Home Depot in store? It looks like these are available on-line but I wouldn't mind picking one up when I pick up the 5W20 oil. This seems like a good idea.

Cheers, Pete

If you purchase XL Lubricants (I believe they are an OGR sponsor through JT's Mega Steam smoke fluid), they are all plastic-safe, and each little bottle has its own "pin-point" oil tip.

Thanks!

Cheers, Pete

I use graphite. Is oil better???

You might can get a needle point oiler from Micro-Mark. This is a company that specializes in small model makers tools. Just google Micro-Mark.

Here is a kit from Labelle Lubricants that contains a needle point oiler and grease specifically for model trains.

Larry

I found some needle-point applicator bottles recently at my local Hobby Lobby, in the hobby paint section by the plastic models.  They're empty, of course.  Just put whatever plastic-compatible liquid you want in them, and use away!

I put 3-In-One light weight oil in one of the bottles and am currently using it to lubricate axles and center rollers on both freight trucks, passenger trucks, and locos.  Just one drop on each axle end and/or bearing surface is more than sufficient.

Having antique windup clocks a empty needle point oiler was saved for the trains plus a quart of synthetic mobil one oil from garage cabinet.

@tncentrr posted:

You might can get a needle point oiler from Micro-Mark. This is a company that specializes in small model makers tools. Just google Micro-Mark.

You definitely need a needle point oiler. Hob-E-Lube from Woodland Scenics is perfect. It is plastic and paint safe. It comes in different viscosity weights. I use Premium Ultra Light oil. For greasing loco gears, buy a nutrient syringe (it has a plastic tip) and fill it with Lubriplate, lithium grease, Teflon grease or some other lightweight grease. The pointy applicator makes it easy to direct the grease without making a mess. I operate ALL my trains. I am serious about proper lubrication.

@Hot Water posted:

If you purchase XL Lubricants (I believe they are an OGR sponsor through JT's Mega Steam smoke fluid), they are all plastic-safe, and each little bottle has its own "pin-point" oil tip.

HIGHLY recommend XL.

@Mixed Freight posted:

I put 3-In-One light weight oil in one of the bottles and am currently using it to lubricate axles and center rollers on both freight trucks, passenger trucks, and locos.

I hate to be a "wet blanket", but I recommend against 3-in-1 oil.  3-in-1 oil is similar to WD-40 in that when volatile components evaporate it turns gummy.  This I know from experience, so it has no place anywhere near my trains or my gun cabinet.

Been using Labelle lubricants for years for trains. That's all I use. And, agree, a needle point oiler is indispensable.

I bought several of these bottles from this seller.

They work great!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plast...0:g:77cAAOSwdrdZb68Z

@harleyhouse posted:

I bought several of these bottles from this seller.

They work great!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Plast...0:g:77cAAOSwdrdZb68Z

Those look like the same bottles I found at Hobby Lobby.  6 bottles in a package for $4.99 - and that's before using a 40% off coupon!

I also bought one bigger, fancier bottle, a 'Fineline Applicator', with a longer "fine tip" 20 ga. needle and special cap.  Same deal, $4.99 price tag.  I might also pick up a "medium tip" applicator the next time I'm at the store (18 ga. needle, if memory serves).

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I hate to be a "wet blanket", but I recommend against 3-in-1 oil.  3-in-1 oil is similar to WD-40 in that when volatile components evaporate it turns gummy.  This I know from experience, so it has no place anywhere near my trains or my gun cabinet.

Ooops!  Guess I will be giving those 3-In-One lubricated train cars away to people I don't like.

I have quite a few menards cars and i had two that even after oiling the wheels would not continue to spin by themselves after I spun them.  Made no sense to me.  I ended up cutting off a tiny length of the axel at the point on the end, that cured my issues.  The axels were just a little long or the trucks were not wide enough.

@Tony H posted:

I have quite a few menards cars and i had two that even after oiling the wheels would not continue to spin by themselves after I spun them.  Made no sense to me.  I ended up cutting off a tiny length of the axel at the point on the end, that cured my issues.  The axels were just a little long or the trucks were not wide enough.

Occasionally, in the case of the metal trucks, the die cast side frames are not totally parallel with each other.  Best case scenario is that you can squeeze/pry them into parallel by hand, worst case scenario is having to remove and disassemble them to fix the problem.