Who run these cars and what engines do you use to pull them? I myself will be using Burlington E7's, how about you?
Replies sorted oldest to newest
The CB&Q is one of the primary roads I model, however I elected to put together a Burlington heavyweight passenger train (all Golden Gate Depot cars) so that I could use steam motive power or an A-A set of E7A units (I model in the early to mid 1950s). Although hind sight is 20-20, I elected NOT to purchase the Atlas CZ set, mainly due to their marketing strategy, i.e taking well over 5 years to complete a train set. In the long run I have been proven correct, for what THAT is worth.
To answer your question directly, I planned on going with a pair of E7A units, and prior to Golden Gate Depot announcing their beautiful E7 models, I had already started on a pair of Williams scale size E7A models. Both are powered, and have been heavily detailed and custom painted to the correct 1950s black nose treatment. Thus, should a friend bring over his Atlas CZ set, when ever he finally gets a COMPLETE train, I'll be able to use the E7A-E7A units to pull the train.
I run those cars.
i pull them with Lionel Legacy Western Pacifics and Rio Grande units.
They look great.
Check out my YouTube video.
Scrappy
I just purchased 7 of these cars (3-rail domes and sleepers), and will naturally grab the diner, baggage and dome observation when they're produced. I didn't jump on board when these cars were first announced, 'cause I had my doubts Atlas-O would produce the train in a timely manner... and I was correct.
But seeing how Lionel has delayed production of its 18" set for so long, I decided I might as well do it right with Atlas-O's 21" cars -- even if it may take another year or so to "complete" the train. The cars are terrific at a great price. I couldn't believe DesPlaines Hobbies had a 30% sale this past weekend, and their 2-rail stock of CZ cars were priced at $108/each!!! What a great deal if one were in the 2-rail segment of this hobby.
As for motive power, I already have two candidate pieces: a Lionel WP F3 ABBA set, and a Lionel WP GS-64. Both are the TMCC versions from the mid-2000's and are excellent runners. Makes no difference to me that the GS-64 never pulled these cars in real-life. I don't get bogged down in those details as this is a hobby that's meant to be enjoyed, after all.
Another "what-if" possibility should I decide to "modernize" my CZ motive roster might be to double-head a pair of Lionel D&RGW SD70ACe's from the UP Heritage series produced a few years ago.
Now let's just hope Atlas-O follows through and completes the train once and for all.
David
The real question is who is getting them to run reliably on 072 Lionel tubular track!
Also how in the *&^% do you open up one of these cars to add people?
They are the best looking cars out there though, I have 2 domes and one sleeper, will pick up the diner when released, sure hope they stick it out and make the observation car!
Here they are going around an 072 curve on Atlas track, which they handle well, but look at that gap and over hand. Whoa Nellie !!!
Attachments
Also how in the *&^% do you open up one of these cars to add people?
There are only 4 screws that hold the body affixed to the under frame. Atlas O has a very nice video available, on their site, which shows you step by step exactly how to open up the cars in order to change out the defective window strips. Obviously while you have them apart, you can install people.
Also how in the *&^% do you open up one of these cars to add people?
There are only 4 screws that hold the body affixed to the under frame. Atlas O has a very nice video available, on their site, which shows you step by step exactly how to open up the cars in order to change out the defective wind strips. Obviously while you have them apart, you can install people.
Thanks for the heads up. I will investigate.
Hot Water,
what details did you add to the Williams E7's? I also have a set that are both powered and will have fixed pilots or lowered to eliminate the gap.
J daddy,
the cars will run around O72 but look much better on wider radius. They will derail on O72 if your running too fast.
Thanks,
Dave
Dava,
I had my custom builder strip both bodies, then added all the proper, for Burlington, lift rings, grab irons, and the narrow foot support along the Fireman's side bottom of the nose. I also had decals made for the black nose treatment, since the CB&Q nose decals have NOT been available from Champ Decal Co. for more than 10 years.
I'll se if I can find a photo and post it here.
Attachments
Thanks Hot water they look great but from pictures I have seen the windshield wipers were silver. Which is correct? I imagine black are correct.
I bought a few just to run an excursion train. I posted the Atlas video that shows how to take them apart. I swapped out the windows and filled the seats with passengers while they were apart.
Thanks Hot water they look great but from pictures I have seen the windshield wipers were silver. Which is correct? I imagine black are correct.
The "silver appearing" wiper assemblies would be more correct, as the natural bright metal color tends to blend in on the silver looking units. I preferred to have the wiper arms stand out a bit on the models, thus they are painted black.
If you don't already have it, I suggest that you purchase the "Burlington Bulletin, No. 10" from the Burlington Route Historical Society, P.O. Box 456, LaGrange, IL 60525. That Bulletin covers EVERYTHING you need to know about modeling ANY of the CB&Q E Unit classes.
I have the K-line E-units...are they accurate for this train?
Thanks,
Alan
I have the K-line E-units...are they accurate for this train?
Thanks,
Alan
While not specifically detailed for the Burlington, the answer would be yes as acceptable stand-ins, if you're from the Goodenuf School of Model Railroading.
Rusty (A proud graduate of good ol' GSMR, class of '62)
Thanks Hot water they look great but from pictures I have seen the windshield wipers were silver. Which is correct? I imagine black are correct.
The "silver appearing" wiper assemblies would be more correct, as the natural bright metal color tends to blend in on the silver looking units. I preferred to have the wiper arms stand out a bit on the models, thus they are painted black.
If you don't already have it, I suggest that you purchase the "Burlington Bulletin, No. 10" from the Burlington Route Historical Society, P.O. Box 456, LaGrange, IL 60525. That Bulletin covers EVERYTHING you need to know about modeling ANY of the CB&Q E Unit classes.
Thanks for the tip on the Burlington Bulletin, I will pick it up.
I have the K-line E-units...are they accurate for this train?
Thanks,
Alan
What KIND of "E" Units? I'm not that familiar with what diesel models K-Line offered, but here are some points to consider:
1) The CB&Q ONLY had E5B units, i.e. NO E7B, nor E8B, nor E9B units. Thus ANY manufacturer that offers A-B-A E7/E8/E9 units for the Burlington, would not be prototypically correct. So, just don't run the "B" Unit!
2) Depending on what era you are modeling, the black nose treatments is correct for prior to the late 1950s, while the red nose treatments bring you right up into the Burlington Northern 1971 era, when everything started to be painted BN green anyway.
3) Be careful which specific road numbers you desire to model, when it comes to the E7a units. The Burlington began retro fitting many of the E7A units with polished stainless steel carbody panels, so as to match the newer E8A/E9A units.
4) If you desire to have D&RGW or WP "F" Units handle your CZ, then you don't need the K-Line "E" Units anyway!
I have the K-line E-units...are they accurate for this train?
Thanks,
Alan
What KIND of "E" Units? I'm not that familiar with what diesel models K-Line offered, but here are some points to consider:
1) The CB&Q ONLY had E5B units, i.e. NO E7B, nor E8B, nor E9B units. Thus ANY manufacturer that offers A-B-A E7/E8/E9 units for the Burlington, would not be prototypically correct. So, just don't run the "B" Unit!
2) Depending on what era you are modeling, the black nose treatments is correct for prior to the late 1950s, while the red nose treatments bring you right up into the Burlington Northern 1971 era, when everything started to be painted BN green anyway.
3) Be careful which specific road numbers you desire to model, when it comes to the E7a units. The Burlington began retro fitting many of the E7A units with polished stainless steel carbody panels, so as to match the newer E8A/E9A units.
4) If you desire to have D&RGW or WP "F" Units handle your CZ, then you don't need the K-Line "E" Units anyway!
Here's the K-Line E8. K-Line never made an E8 B unit:
Rusty
Attachments
Thanks guys....the pictures that Rusty posted are the units I have. They do have the lift rings as well as some other details... here are a few pictures of mine:
Alan
Attachments
Hot Water,
Your E units are spectacular.
Are those GGD?
Scrappy
Hot Water,
Your E units are spectacular.
Are those GGD?
Scrappy
No, as I said in description to david1, they are highly detailed Williams E7A units, both are powered.
Thanks. They really did turn out nice, for diesels anyway. I tend to prefer pulling my GGD Burlington heavyweight train with an O5 Northern or an S4 Hudson.