Hi all! Long-time forum reader but infrequent poster here... After several years of being somewhat dormant in the train hobby I decided last year to pick up a couple of O gauge engines to display in my apartment. I have a Williams 726 Berkshire reproduction and Lionel 6-18000 B6 Switcher that live on a shelf and come down at Christmas to run on a small loop around the tree. Today the Berk exhibited some bizarre behavior after several hours of perfectly fine operation on this and the previous year's Christmas tree layouts. While pulling three modern-era freight cars on an O-36 Fastrack oval with an MTH Z-1000 transformer, it would slow down noticeably in one area of the loop. I suspected mild voltage drop on the opposite side of the loop from the transformer hookup, and boosted the throttle accordingly going through that section of the loop to compensate. The B6 behaved similarly in that area of the track, but needed generally higher voltages overall due to the AC motor. All fine. Then, for variety's sake I turned the train around to run the opposite direction and put the Berkshire back on. The slowdowns were noticeably worse and in completely different locations, some of which were right next to the transformer hookup. In a couple spots the engine would come to almost a complete stop, and would required nearly full voltage from the transformer to get it going again. I suspected the track was getting dirty, and went over it thoroughly with an MTH track cleaning pad and fluid. No luck. The stalling behavior persisted in the same locations, and got worse to the point where no amount of juice would keep the engine moving. At this point I detected a faint burning odor and, lo and behold, the can motor in the cab was very hot to the touch as was the shell of the engine in that area. Subsequently I noticed a thin coffee-colored liquid dripping from the locomotive in the area of the rear driver axle, enough that a few drops had pooled on the track under where the locomotive was sitting. At this point I was baffled. At no point since receiving my first Lionel train set 29 years ago have I seen anything like this. I'm not so concerned about the engine. It was a bargain, and worst case it goes back to being a shelf queen, as that's where it spends 90% of its time anyway. I'm curious as to what might have caused this though, as I've taken various long-dormant engines out of storage at my parents' house for Christmas layout duty and run them for hours with nothing more than a couple drops of fresh oil on the side rods. Previous Williams engines I've owned (GG-1, U33C, SD90MAC) have been great runners and given no trouble at all. Any thoughts on where I might have gone wrong? Thanks and Happy Holidays!
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The thin coffee colored liquid sounds like melting armature insulation. My guess is that the can motor has cacked it for some reason or other. If you don't want to replace the motor, then put the Berk on the shelf and just admire it.
As for the Fasttrack, the pins will come loose with time, especially if you assemble and disassemble it many times. I recommend carefully soldering the pins, being sure to use a small amount of solder so that the tracks will snap together again.
Good luck!
Mitch
Hi,
Is this a 40510?
#1The smoke unit has no fluid and was not disconnected - it is overheating and beginning to short. The Seuthe units require fluid at all times.
#2 The engine was converted to museum running with the e-unit disconnected. track power directly to a bridge diode and then to motor. The diode has failed. Forward direction only - no reverse.
Remove the shell and have a look.
What did you find?
The armature is insulated with enamel paint. Its not going to come off like melted grease, rather just burn off. More likely its gearbox grease. Take the shell off and have a look at the motor and gearbox and make sure the traction tires are on correctly. Its just a few screws and easy to take apart and put together. Sounds like something is binding causing the motor to overheat.
Pete
The smoke unit has been disconnected since I first got the engine (found that tip from reading previous threads here). The reverse unit is still connected normally. Today I took the shell off and cleaned up the small amount of grease that had leaked inside the engine. Turning the motor flywheel by hand, I discovered that there is a distinct point in the rotation of the drivers where things seize up a bit. Once past that point, the wheels turn easily for the remainder of the revolution. As time permits I will open the gearbox and try to determine the cause. Could also be that some part of the side rod linkage or valve gear is sticking. Thanks all for your help!
Check the eccentrics on number three driver. The arm should be just forward of driver center when the wheels are turning in the forward direction.
An easy way to check if these are causing the binding is to remove the screw holding them in place and rotate the flywheel by hand. When replacing them locate their tabs in the wheel slots before tightening the screws.
Pete
Thanks Pete. I'll check on that. Interestingly, the eccentric crank slots on this engine appear to be direct copies of each other from one side of the engine to the other, rather than mirror images as they would be on a prototype locomotive. This means that the cranks themselves both point up and to the right in their respective "rods down" positions, but lean toward the front of the locomotive on the right side of the engine, and towards the back on the left side. Photos I've seen suggest that most if not all Postwar-style Berks are set up this way, probably to avoid having to manufacture two different versions of the main driver casting. On a real steam locomotive, this would cause one side of the engine to be in reverse while the other was in forward. Obviously on a toy train the valve gear is just for show, and the anomaly probably goes unnoticed by most.
I'm with Norton on this. Sounds like a rod issue.
Mitch
Broadway, some engines have a pair of slots on the wheels 90 degrees off which allow the cranks to both be in the forward postion left or right. Check that when you pull them off.
Pete
This is 99.9 % probably not your fix . One day one of our started running erratically . Stopped engine and found the single screw holding motor to truck had loosened.
Hopefuly when you look at the gearbox and shaft of motor none of the gears have bad teeth for lack of a better term.
Feel/wiggle the rods with your fingers and gauge their looseness. Then turn the motor by hand until it binds. Feel the rods again. The one that is no longer loose will lead you to the problem.