Williams series motor mod.

Don't cut anything.

Remove the yellow wire from one motor, the blue from the other. Wrap them, separated, with insulating tape and secure them inside the shell. Now connect the two motor terminals you just freed up with a new wire. Done.

My older Williams diesel motors had .110 quick-connects, newer ones may need to be swapped with a soldering gun/iron.

Rob, The wires blue and  yellow are connected to the motors and then plugged into a terminal board., are you saying to remove the blue wire from one motor and remove one yellow wire from the other motor with a soldering gun ? And then connect a wire from the blue terminal on one motor to the yellow terminal on the other motor...?   Makes a cleaner looking connection ! I am visual kind of guy vice trying to understand written terminology.....

Thanks,

You got it exactly. Easily reversed if wanted/needed, no cutting of original harnesses.

Here is a better description of what you are doing with plenty of pictures..

http://s574.photobucket.com/us...E7?sort=3&page=1

Bluedragon - follow the tutorial above.  if i can do it anyone can.  if you don't have the quick disconnect then the only nerve racking part is prying the connector out of the wire harness.  The end result is that your williams will run great at a slow speed without giving up too much pulling power

good luck

gp

The above info I used to convert the scale GG1 now runs much smoother>>>

Marty

For the weak or low volume on the horn and bell you may have to adjust the volume or potientiameter switch on the circuit board, it should have a small slot in it that takes a small flat tip screwdriver(at least the older WBB engines had that).

Lee Fritz

I can easily wire a Williams motors in series, but for me I have never seen the need. I usually buy another powered unit(2 powered Williams engines) to run with my trains as I like to have at least 12 freight cars or 6 passenger cars on a train and wiring motors in series it would take over 10 minutes for the train, if it would even move, to go around my small layout. FYI; I have enough power from my transformer as I use a post war ZW.

Lee Fritz

Well, the Williams diesels with which I am familiar could always use a slowing down/strengthening up (at those slower speeds) by wiring the motors in series. It's just too easy (see above) to not do.

Helpful Hint (if anybody cares): I also wire older PS-1 (therefore no cruise control) MTH RK articulateds in series; they have 2 motors and the models are really diesel locos in drag, anyway (is that why they call big, slow articulateds "drag engines"? Maybe?..).

Cruise control (anyone's) masks this speed issue.

The easiest way that I found is to cut the yellow wire at one motor and the blue wire at the other motor. I leave about an inch of wire sticking out of each motor in case I ever want to put it back to original (nothing is done with these). I then strip the ends of the two wires, slip on heat  shrink, twist the two wires together, apply solder to the joint, put the heat shrink over the joint, and I am done. Takes about 10 minutes.

The Williams engines I use work well with regular wiring, I just need more power at times, even the SD-45's I use 2 powered engines together. 

Series wiring is easy for me, wait until you get into series-parallel circuits like in heavy equipment batteries.

Lee Fritz

A DPDT switch can be installed, too, if you want the capability of switching between series/parallel.

Rob, would you please explain how a DPDT switch would be wired to give the capability of switching between series/parallel? (a diagram with instructions would be helpful)?

Also, what size DPDT switc h would be used?

BTW, parallel is how the motors are originally factory wired, correct??

Thanks.

ogaugeguy posted:

Rob, would you please explain how a DPDT switch would be wired to give the capability of switching between series/parallel? (a diagram with instructions would be helpful)?

Also, what size DPDT switc h would be used?

BTW, parallel is how the motors are originally factory wired, correct??

Thanks.

You would need a DPDT switch rated at 6 amps and 32 volts AC, size of the switch won't matter too much, so you can use a miniature switch, as the current rating is what will matter.

Lee Fritz

ogaugeguy posted:

Rob, would you please explain how a DPDT switch would be wired to give the capability of switching between series/parallel? (a diagram with instructions would be helpful)?

Also, what size DPDT switc h would be used?

BTW, parallel is how the motors are originally factory wired, correct??

Thanks.

1)Diagram below
2) 4-6 amps is plenty - you choose style/size/type/location
3)Yes, parallel from factory, although late K-Line diesels had the switch installed from the factory!

phillyreading posted:

For the weak or low volume on the horn and bell you may have to adjust the volume or potientiameter switch on the circuit board, it should have a small slot in it that takes a small flat tip screwdriver(at least the older WBB engines had that).

Lee Fritz

Concerning the volume control, I don't see a switch per se, what I have found is a circular something with a hole in it. It looks like I could adjust it with by turning it, but when I try it doesn't turn. What I have found out is if I put upward pressure on it,  the horn and bell sound very loudly. What I suspect is that there is a short or that it's not making good connection. I have bent it up a little and the horn/bell worked for awhile but then went silent again.  The only way I can think to solve it, is to pull the circuit board off and maybe re-solder the connection !!!

Thanks for the info.

Gentlemen, thanks for all the input and answering my questions. I am in Japan and travel a lot, so it may take me awhile to try what you have suggest.

Thanks.

When running my Williams units on my ZW in the garage, they are faster than I would like but OK! When I run them on my computer room loop from a Variac, they run much slower because of the windings on the rheostat! I think I will not change the wiring!