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Perhaps experienced O gaugers already know this tip, but for those who don't:

My layout was pure custom built, requiring six or seven custom cut track pieces.   Most were short curved sections, in tight areas, which required some "custom made" long track pins, that would easily bend to the radius of the curve when installed.   I needed he track pins to be exposed between the track sections for about 3/8ths of an inch to get the track sections together the way I wanted.

I tried a lot of things, including thick copper wire, etc.  None of them worked very well.

Then, I went into my closet and found the cheapest wire hanger I could find, from a dry -cleaners.  Very thin rod metal and easily bendable.

I cut the lengths I needed, filed the ends down a bit to make them more easily fit into the pin holes of the track, bent them into the curved shape I needed, and used them to hook together the track sections.  They slid right in, with just a little resistance.  Unlike the very stiff standard pins, I could easily bend the connected joints between two track sections a bit, when needed, and they don't split or tear open the ends of the rails when you have to remove or adjust them.

The metal was relatively soft, and the track rails crimped right down on them with a crimping tool.

The cars glide smoothly over the pins and joints, including the exposed sections of the pins, the pins never rust, and they seem to conduct electricity just fine.  I have had zero derailments.     I am not sure what type of metal the rod is made of, but I now keep a six- inch section of this rod in my supply box, just in case I need it in the future.

Hope this may help some folks in the future.

Mannyrock

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Manny

Great idea on using coat hanger wire for long track pins.  I have used parts of finish nails for longer track pins also but they have to be pre bent to make them curve.

I did not like the gaps on my 027 tracks at the pin joints.  They make noise and I think the would wear on the train wheels.  I filled in the places on my track where the track pins were exposed with pieces of metal sheet, cut with a pair of tin snips and crimped them on with a pair of nipper pliers.  I use aluminum flashing sheeting but you will need only a small scrape.  I had some left over from gutter work.  One could also use small sections of track rail, cut off with a fine tooth hack saw or Dremel with a cut off wheel.

IMG_0982



I got a pair of nipper pliers shown below.  Mine are from a cheap Chinese pliers set (Harbor Freight now days) and are small, about 4" long.  I use these to tightly wrap the piece of shim or flashing stock around the pin in the gap.

IMG_1030

When using the coat hanger wire for long track pins I would scrap off a the paint usually on that wire and then add a thin coat of NO OX conducting grease to improve conduction and eliminate any rusting that could take place



Charlie

Last edited by Choo Choo Charlie

PD,  that is exactly the type of issue I faced with my layout. 

Cut about an inch or a bit more off of the end of each piece of track, flex the rails themselves a bit to get them a little closer to centered, and then join the track ends together with pieces of very gently bent hanger rods.   

It will take a little adjusting, patience and flexing to get it right, but since you can slide each end of the metal rod up inside the rails a long way (unlike steel track pins), once you get it set right, it will stay right.  You can always slide the ties (with flanges flattened) under neath the rails when you are done, for some vertical support.

Copper wire may work as well, but then you have to deal with figuring out what "gauge" of copper wire will slide up into the holes snugly but easily, and  then there is always the issue of the copper turning green.   If you will "sacrifice" two or three hangers of different sizes, you will find the right diameter of rod.

As Bluto said of the brew at the Delta party, "Hey, it don't cost nuthin!"

Mannyrock

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