Wiring a Dz1000 switch machine.

I used Euro style terminal strips and thermostat wire form Home Depot. The wire I used was #18, but #20 or 22 would also be fine. I think some folks use network cable like Cat5. I already had 3 different spools of thermostat wire (2, 3, & 5 conductor) I was using for other things so it was here and handy. As I recall, I stripped a bit more from the DZ1000 wires and doubled them over to allow better gripping of the wire by the terminal strip. Those wires are pretty small.

Like RTR12 said, use Euro Terminal strips.  Also - add a short section of 20 or 22 ga. wire to the ends of the three wires on the remote and switch machine.  Tin the ends of all wires!!  I can't emphasize that enough.  DZ-1000's wires are as thin as human hairs and the ends disappear readily.

On the Euro terminal strips, locate them in a convenient place and pain yellow and green  where the wires attach.

DZ-100's can be a #$%$^% when they go south.

bruce

Good idea, adding the short tail piece of larger wire to the DZ wires. I was under the layout wiring mine up before I realized how much of a PITA those small wires were. When I rework my layout I am going to add those tail pieces to my DZs.

I do the same as RTR. I use European style terminal blocks along with 20/22 gauge wire.

Important note here - down the line you will be thinking non-derail / direction lights / adding relays etc. which may function with the 1000  this is where the terminal block comes in handy. It is always easier to add jumpers and wires to the block than tear apart connections already made.

Joe

How do you incorporate Euro terminal strips into the wiring of the DZ1000 and its DZ1002 controller.  A simple diagram wold be helpful.

Thanks, Mike Miller

22 or 24 gauge control wire pictured.  Ideal (71B) Small grey wire nuts.

(7) push buttons.

The small wire size may require some finger twisting/ a fold over, and then additional twisting, before applying the twist nut.  IMO, Mike CT ????Always looking for a smaller wire nut for this application????

@Mike Miller posted:

How do you incorporate Euro terminal strips into the wiring of the DZ1000 and its DZ1002 controller.  A simple diagram wold be helpful.

Thanks, Mike Miller

I apologize for the mess. This is a 'table top' test crcuit for testing relays and signals before I install them under the layout. However the concept is still the same. I cut the terminal strips in half and use 4 under the layout for the various connections.

I use 22 or 20 gauge wire but I add wire ferrules to the ends that go into the terminal strips. They make a much better connection. The wire 'loops' you see are the shorting 'bars'. Setting up under the layout will entail adding length on to the wires from the 1000 / 1002.

@Joe Fauty posted:

I apologize for the mess. This is a 'table top' test crcuit for testing relays and signals before I install them under the layout. However the concept is still the same. I cut the terminal strips in half and use 4 under the layout for the various connections.

I use 22 or 20 gauge wire but I add wire ferrules to the ends that go into the terminal strips. They make a much better connection. The wire 'loops' you see are the shorting 'bars'. Setting up under the layout will entail adding length on to the wires from the 1000 / 1002.

I really liked your idea about using those ferrules I have had my share of problems using the wire as it comes and getting it to clamp into these plastic terminal strips. Thanks!

I also use wire ferrules with standard crimp connects. I crimp the wire into the ferrule then the ferrule into the crimp connect. This make the crimp rock solid.

That's why I love this hobby....I always learn something! Joe....ferrules....what a great idea! No more splayed wire risking a short circuit across screw-down terminals.

@Joe Fauty posted:

I also use wire ferrules with standard crimp connects. I crimp the wire into the ferrule then the ferrule into the crimp connect. This make the crimp rock solid.

That is another great tip. Thanks. What type of tool are you using, looks different than mine?

What's the source for those ferruls?

I also solder the wires on the  crimps.

Junior: Thanks

Jeff:

What you see is a tool for standard crimp connects. Below is the tool I use to crimp ferrules - strictly Volkswagen though Ferrules Direct sells Cadillac versions. Not sure this version is sold anymore but $60-$90 will get you a decent tool.

trainman - Ferrules Direct - https://www.ferrulesdirect.com...page?q=wire+ferrules
If you need advice on what ferrule to buy let me know what wire sizes you use and if you will be inserting them into standard crimp connects or only inserting into European strip terminals. I usually deal with the red or blue #6 spade or ring connects.

Basically for ferrules you insert into the European terminals just use the ferrule sized for the wire. For small wires - 22 to 28 gauge I crimp them into the appropriate ferrule then crimp that ferrule into a larger ferrule so the terminal screw has something more beefy to lock down onto. This is not really needed but makes me feel good.......... From there you need only worry about barrel length.

@Joe Fauty posted:

Junior: Thanks

Jeff:

What you see is a tool for standard crimp connects. Below is the tool I use to crimp ferrules - strictly Volkswagen though Ferrules Direct sells Cadillac versions. Not sure this version is sold anymore but $60-$90 will get you a decent tool.

trainman - Ferrules Direct - https://www.ferrulesdirect.com...page?q=wire+ferrules
If you need advice on what ferrule to buy let me know what wire sizes you use and if you will be inserting them into standard crimp connects or only inserting into European strip terminals. I usually deal with the red or blue #6 spade or ring connects.

Basically for ferrules you insert into the European terminals just use the ferrule sized for the wire. For small wires - 22 to 28 gauge I crimp them into the appropriate ferrule then crimp that ferrule into a larger ferrule so the terminal screw has something more beefy to lock down onto. This is not really needed but makes me feel good.......... From there you need only worry about barrel length.

Joe:

I could see my needs for the ferrules for those same terminal strips you show in white. I am using them and they are hard to work with small wires. I would see me interested in the 22-28GA. and maybe the next sizes larger for the same application, those white terminal strips. Although we do not have a Lowes locally I have gotten them from Lowes they call these Barrier Strips 22-10 GA by Utilitech.  Jeff

Did my other reply get posted??

What is the best way to attach the extended tail pieces to the switch machine and controller wires.  I was thinking of using heat shrink tubing, though overkill, it's compact, strong and flexible. 

Jeff:'If you look closer at the last photo there are two different size European terminal strips. I am now using the larger size on the bottom right. I buy theses from Ferrules Direct also along with spade and ring crimp connects. Below is a list of what I use the most of.

1. GT1450B-8 - Terminal Block Barrier Strip - 12 Poles, 8mm Pitch, No Wire Protector - wire gauge is 20-10AWG
Note for me the color of the insulator on ferrules does not matter. Also I like the 8mm barrel length though you may prefer the 12mm length.
2. 26AWG - AW01408
3. 22AWG - ATW3408
4. 20AWG - AW07508
5. 18AWG - AW10008
6. 16AWG - AW15008
7. 14AWG - AW25008M
8. 16x2AWG - two 16AWG together - TW15010 (If you use 18AWG for power you can get that version)
9. 22x2AWG - TW05008  (I use these for the 'shorting bars' for the terminal strips).

The 22AWG ferrule crimped will fit inside the 20AWG or 18AWG ferrule.
The 16AWG ferrule crimped will fit inside the blue spade crimp connect.
The 18AWG ferrule crimped will fit inside the red spade crimp connect

@Mike Miller posted:

What is the best way to attach the extended tail pieces to the switch machine and controller wires.  I was thinking of using heat shrink tubing, though overkill, it's compact, strong and flexible.

Mike: I don't use the controller but with the switch motor wires I drill a hole in the train board, drop the wires down then crimp ferrules on the ends. I insert the wires into a European connector (cut them in groups of three). The extension wires then go into the mating holes. If you ever need to remove the switch motor it is easy to disconnect the wires from the terminal strip and pull up through the hole in the board.

@Joe Fauty posted:

Jeff:'If you look closer at the last photo there are two different size European terminal strips. I am now using the larger size on the bottom right. I buy theses from Ferrules Direct also along with spade and ring crimp connects. Below is a list of what I use the most of.

1. GT1450B-8 - Terminal Block Barrier Strip - 12 Poles, 8mm Pitch, No Wire Protector - wire gauge is 20-10AWG
Note for me the color of the insulator on ferrules does not matter. Also I like the 8mm barrel length though you may prefer the 12mm length.
2. 26AWG - AW01408
3. 22AWG - ATW3408
4. 20AWG - AW07508
5. 18AWG - AW10008
6. 16AWG - AW15008
7. 14AWG - AW25008M
8. 16x2AWG - two 16AWG together - TW15010 (If you use 18AWG for power you can get that version)
9. 22x2AWG - TW05008  (I use these for the 'shorting bars' for the terminal strips).

The 22AWG ferrule crimped will fit inside the 20AWG or 18AWG ferrule.
The 16AWG ferrule crimped will fit inside the blue spade crimp connect.
The 18AWG ferrule crimped will fit inside the red spade crimp connect

Hi Joe:  Thanks for all this information, rest assured I will be looking into all of it. Sure appreciate you taking the time!

jeff