Wiring an isolated siding and DCS

Depending on your needs and layout size, you may want to consider switching with relays as they offer some advantages, since they can switch multiple circuits with 1 switch and avoid long runs of heavy wire to and from the control panel, described here

 

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I would also consider converting passenger cars and cabooses to LED lighting,then energy is not a factor,at least with the cars. Here is a link to converting cabooses and passenger cars

 

 

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Dale H

Its probably not a signal problem when using toggles.  The power wil get to the engine before the DCS signal so it will come up in conventional  Just do a startup and it will work fine.  Don't use cheap toggles as they will cause issues.  We use relays because of the distance to the toggles   Here is a diagram

 

Thanks for the insight. I don't know much about relays. For toggle switches, does DCS prefer both hot and common wires (double pole toggle) or just the hot (single pole)?

Paul, Only switching of Hot is required. Switching Common is optional.

 Is it still preferred to wire to both a center and outer rail every 8-10 feet or so? Hopefully, things will go smooth this time around, and I definitely won't need Super Mode in the new layout, which gives me hope DCS will work optimally.

 

 

Hi Paul,  I not convinced short 8 - 10 foot blocks are the best way to go. I'm now convinced longer 25 -30 foot blocks are  much better,Example.. I've helped a number of friends with large layouts who were having signal problems and in most cases increasing the blocks length improved the signal  to a perfect 10.

 

How did we test this theory.... take 3 ten foot blocks, which yielded a signal of perhaps 5 to 7.  Remove 2 sets of feederes leaving one. and join the center rails at each block creating one long block  yielded a perfect 10.

 

I've seen this happen many times so it's not a fluke. I'm still using Barry's wiring suggestions with the terminmasl blocks, lighted bulb(older tiu) but just making the blocks longer. Test as you go and keep in mind there's a limit on how much track one can expect  a good dcs signal.

 

 

Gregg,

I'm now convinced longer 25 -30 foot blocks are  much better

I agree, providing that there are no more than 10-12 track joins (track sections) in the block.

To switch both hot and common,you would need a DPDT switch or DPDT relay. The relay contacts are the same as the switch contacts for the purposes of wiring. All the relay is, is an electromagnetic switch which can be placed anywhere. Using a relay,a small toggle switch can work the relay coil,which in turn can switch multiple high amperage separate circuit.  The diagram from Blueline illustrates the advantage of using the relay. If the control panel was 50 feet from the siding,with a toggle switch you would need 100 feet of heavy gage wire per circuit (or 200 feet if hot and common are switched) which in itself could diminish the signal. Using the relay it could be mounted in line with the wire and a single 50 feet of light gauge #22 wire could be used to power the coil. with a DPDT relay (2 sets of contacts) you could switch the hot and common if desired.  A suitable relay with a socket DPDT 10 amp would cost about $8.

 

Dale H 

All my many sidings are controlled by SPST toggle switches & all work fine.  Some have 18-volt bulbs in the bumpers to keep them from reducing signal strength on the main line.