Wiring Fastrack Switches for constant voltage

The FT switches take very little current, but I do like to have them powered up when the track voltage is down. So I like your idea. I don't think the phasing is important for the FT power, but why not phase it anyway. Start out with U on the common and A on the AUX power input on the switches and measure the voltage between the center rail and A on the transformer. It needs to be near zero with everything turned on. You could also run some accessories with the extra transformer...and lights on the layout.

Roger-

It is definitely a good idea to power your switches from a separate transformer, especially if you run conventionally. Switch motors perform their best when at 14 volts or more, which would mean the transformer throttle is fairly high in order to ensure the points snap smartly. Running the switches from a separate transformer enables you to set the voltage high enough for the switch machines to work properly without affecting the speed of your train. Since the switches are grounded through track ground, you can connect the "U" post of the switch transformer to the common (outer) rails.

Transformer phasing is important, but with the advent of polarized plugs in the 1970s this is typically no longer an issue (most will be in phase with each other right out of the box). Postwar transformers did not have polarized plugs, so operators had to be sure their transformers were in phase before running their trains.

On a side note, the 36 watt power supply is fairly light duty and best used for powering one operating accessory or a few lights. In the long run you may be better off purchasing another CW-80, this way you have some extra capacity to add more switches or accessories later. An overloaded transformer is never a good thing, as it can result in (at best) the circuit breaker tripping constantly or (at worst) a fire.

-John

FasTrack switches show little to no improvement or difference over about 7 volts.

Regarding that, I have an MTH Z 500 power brick that came with my BNSF Freight set. It plugs into the MTH Remote Commander Receiver, via a barrel plug, and the Receiver plugs into the track via another banana/barrel plug cord that I made from the cord off another old power brick.

QUESTION 1) Could I connect the MTH Remote Commander to the CW-80 with another banana/barrel cord, thus being able to control my conventional train, as well as my MTH BNSF Remote Commander locomotive with the same power supply?

QUESTION 2) Could I then us a DC Barrel Female Adapter to plug the Z 500 into and then to take (+) power to the switches and the (-)  to the other transformer for phasing? The adapter has a female barrel receptacle on one end, with (+) & (-) screw terminals on the other end.

This is a link to the DC Barrel Female adapter that I referred to above:

https://www.sparkfun.com/produ...f538QCFQMT7AodsysA_A 

Thanks for the correction Rob - I was thinking of the O22 switches instead of the FasTrack switches.

-John

Roger-

Yes, you can use the CW-80 to power Remote Commander. I would recommend using the variable outputs on the CW-80, this way you can continue to use the throttle to adjust the speed of your conventional trains, while your BNSF locomotive will respond to the remote.

In terms of the Z500, the short answer is maybe. To be safe look at the data tag on the power brick; if the output is AC, then you can use both power supplies together as long as they are in phase. If the output is DC, you cannot phase it with any other power source.

-John

I ran all my FasTrack switches off of Auxiliary power.  I had a Z1000 that I bought before I bought the Z4000.  Like someone said if your running conventional you will always have power to the switches.  Wiring is pretty straight forward.  All you need is a set of small screw drivers.  I have mine installed on a permanent layout.  I have 15 total and all run off the fixed AUX voltage.  Before I started I took a sharpie and wrote the wire colors on the underside so I would remember how to reattach the controller.  Just remove the jumper and slide in a wire.  I used 18 gauge as that's what I had available.  I used two colors, one for hot and another for the ground.  I tightened down all three screws where the jumper and power wires go.  The little screws sticks out a little.  I drilled a hole through my bench top and ran the wires up through the hole and hooked them back up. 

I use aux power for my fastrack switches and I feed mine from underneath the switch also. I believe if I were using the command fastrack switches I would use track power thou.

Ken M

For the command switches, I use track power and a 22uh choke instead of the power jumper to limit any DCS impact of the switch electronics.  It has been reported that the Fastrack electronics can affect the DCS signal, I figure the choke is cheap insurance, 99 cents on eBay for fifty of them.

Gentlemen,

   Like Guns I use track power with my FT CC switches, everything is set up in blocks for DCS & Legacy to both operate smoothly. I doubt I will ever have 99 switches to need to due otherwise. I do not even use the chokes and everything works perfectly so far.

PCRR/Dave

I looked up the 22uh choke, but had trouble finding out exactly what it does.

Can you explain this to me?

Also, it seems there are different form factors. Which do you use?

Do you run any conventional trains, and if so, do you see any slow down of the switch action when running very slowly?

I use the axial lead chokes and put them in place of the track power jumper.

I use 22uh ones from this eBay Listing.  They appear to be out of the 22uh ones, but the 33uh ones will work fine as well.

RWL,

   I run Conventional, P2 and Legacy all on the same multi level layout, sometimes even on the same tracks, and if you build correctly using the DCS 10 track join rule, your FT CC switches will have no problem operating, and all your different trains will run perfectly also.  If you violate the 10 track join rule for setting up blocks you may have problems with your FT CC switches and your engine operations also. If you build correctly and test as you build, your layout will run with mostly all 10's and your engines will run perfectly and your switches will operate perfectly from your Cab2 or Cab1 hand held remote control (HHRC).  Engineering in this manner makes everything on the layout work great.

PCRR/Dave

Thanks John,

BTW, I have noticed that when I am running my Lionel conventional with the CW-80, and with the MTH Remote Commander receiver not plugged into the track, and with no power to it at all (totally disconnected and unpowered), that my MTH BNSF SD70 goes ahead and goes thru the "Start Up" sequence of sounds.

This seems odd to me, as I am under the impression that this loco is not to do anything without a signal thru the track from the remote.

Any comments and or further understanding would be more than welcome.

Thanks,
Roger

RWL,

   I will advise you as I do the rest of the people, even the ones I fight with me about it, get rid of your CW-80 it is an introductory transformer, nothing else.  Not recommended for DCS usage.  The smallest transformer I recommend is a Z-1000.  Further there is nothing wrong with an old ZW or KW, set up properly with 10 Amp resettable breakers, between the old transformer and the TIU.  IMO CW-80's are to be used for street car lines only, I usually give them away if one comes with an RTR  I acquire. 

PCRR/Dave

Understood perfectly, and I have been advised by my dealer, just as you said, that when I go DCS that I need to update to a Z-1000, and I fully plan to.

For now, however, I am only running the MTH Starter Set Remote Command system.

Here are the trains that I have at present:

1) Lionel (Lion Chief) Pennsylvania Flyer

2) Lionel (Conventional) Grand Central Express

3) MTH BNSF (Starter Set Remote Command) Freight set

As long as you don't experience any issue running the MTH with the CW-80, I'd hold off until you know what you really want and where the layout is going.  Chances are you'll blow right by the Z-1000 and go for something bigger.

Good advice. That is probably true.