Wiring o gauge tubular question

Unless you are going to use Legacy or a DCS system you will have to isolate the three loops from each other and run three hot wires. One to each loop. Fiber or plastic pins in the power rails if you are going to connect the loops with switches. Also if you are going to run three trains at once you should have enough transformers to do so. A throttle for each track........................Paul

You should have at least two and maybe three power feeds to each loop. Steel doesn't conduct electricity all that well and your power drops off the farther you get from the power feed. If you're not using lockons, there are a couple of options for attaching the wires. I like to solder the feed wires (minimum 16 gauge) to the bottom of the rails. You can also crimp the wires to "flag connectors" (spade lugs with the wire connection at a 90 degree angle) and insert the lugs into the bottom of the rail. I wire the feed with a six-inch pigtail and connect it under the layout with a wire nut. That way if I have to take up the track for any reason I can easily disconnect the wire. 

Thank you for replying. So it sounds like lockons is a yes. As far as what I'm running now, I'm just running a single New York Central Freight set. I'd like to eventually run Legacy or DCS but I have to learn (and power) my way up to that. But do I understand correctly that with Legacy or DCS I don't need to block loops for multiple trains? And just balance my voltage with drops using the same hot? I hope I'm saying that all right/still learning much of this. My layout is attached. Still not sure if I need 3 power feeds (once I have multiple trains) or not. It will only have one train running at first but I'll definitely be looking for more than one soon once I'm comfortable learning this stuff. Thanks again for your support everyone.

This is a great idea!  Do you have a picture of the spade 90 degree spade lug?  (or did you bend it yourself?)  Bob Severin

Bent it myself.  Some folks solder 'em in place but I've never had one come loose.

Pete

I've used both methods, solder and crimping, and it has worked well. Eliminates all those lockons.

I've also soldered wires to the outside rail of insulated track pieces for use in activating my postwar signals and accessories.

I think I'll be using this method for my new layout.  Now, what the heck do I do with the hundred lock-ons I bought?  

Now, what the heck do I do with the hundred lock-ons I bought?  

Have you seen what they are going for on eBay?

Send the kids to college.

Does that mean connect all three rails with fiber or plastic instead of metal pins at one connection to prevent any conductivity between blocks? So in Jaypomp's layout he has three loops and the fiber pr plastic would be between the pieces of track connecting the purple and green loops, and same with the red and green?

Also, looking at the spade connectors acting as flag connectors spaced around the track, should there be one connector in each rail? Thanks for your help!

The fiber or plastic pins would be placed in the center rail between the switches going to each loop. You would have to do this for conventional running and you wanted to run an engine on each loop. If running with Legacy, TMCC or DCS I believe you do not because you can program each engine. Fiber or plastic pins in the outside rail would be just to make a isolated section of track for signal and such......paul

This is where I get the flag disconnects.

I user tubular track myself and I solder 18ga. stranded feeder wires every 10' or so. I am running only a 4x8 but the continuity is great. I also have two blocks on each mainline, and with two mainlines will be using the 270watt MRC Pure Power unit with dual controls. I am going to use a separate Lionel BW-80 for the small yard area.

Those are identical to the ones in my photo. I have found they are great with 14 gauge wire but you really have to bear down to crimp them on 16 gauge. 

They are designed to be soldered, not crimped.