Work bench design

There's a ton of workbench designs out on the web, like these …. https://www.mymydiy.com/diy-workbench-plans/

For a train layout, you might want to think about incorporating room for a test track, extra transformer, self-healing mat, small tool organizer, parts bin and a control panel with volt/amp meters, etc.

Planning a re-org of my bench soon. Unfortunately I can't find mine at the moment so I don't know where to start.

Sounds like you've go the basics covered.
Keep common tools at arms reach.
The small parts drawer at the front to catch the wayward # 40 screw that goes flying is a great idea.
Pegboard is a must.
An exhaust fan is recommended. I added one last year and the complaints when soldering have stopped.

Place power outlets on the front edge if you can so your cords are out of the way.

I'm going to get creative and add a small switching track on a shelf along the back wall to test engines on too.

Don't forget the cup holders for "refreshments"

Bob

I'm finding a need a bench as my wife doesn't like me soldering in the kitchen and somehow the garage feels too far away from the basement layout.  I found this at Home Depot and am thinking about doing this as it folds away.  https://www.homedepot.ca/

Keep everything handy, and the most used tools extra handy.

This is my setup thus far.

I have a fairly large workshop in the back. Some friends were replacing their kitchen cabinets, so I took all they had. I hung the uppers along part of one wall, and used some of the base units to make a hinged work table. This is a multi purpose table, and is on wheels. It is about 8 feet long by a bit over 2 feet wide. It is hinged in the middle, and folds in half to make an island if you will. The height is set to accommodate my table saw, so when I am cutting plywood, I use the wider "island". I can't sit at it with my feet under, but if that was a necessity, I could add an extension. I have a power strip at one end, and a compressor in one of the base cabinets. I have a long counter on one of the walls with a test track, but could easily transfer that to the work table. The table is also set op for all types of clamping scenarios, and the top has holes to accept dowels to use as stops for belt sanding of clamping. 

I have my tool boxes mounted directly under the bench work. Easy access ....I have one spot on the bench I can pull right up with my stool and put my legs under like a desk....everything right with in reach, or just scoot down to the next station, depending on the task being performed.......Pat

Blake, where did you get that nifty adjustable-looking stool by your workbench?  What make/model is it? 

David

I found the optimum setup was desk in front with vise, drill press to the left, soldering iron with big red “on” lamp just to the right of the drill press, and plenty of holes for tools, including common tap and clear drills.  The rivet machine is stored behind me, and must be repositioned to be used.  Absolutely essential is a magnifying lamp that can swing between work and the drill press.

Over 35 scratchbuilt steam models have popped out over the years.  It helps to have a TV for entertainment.  Test track is my layout.

So I finally ordered this foldaway workbench from Home Depot and here is a video of it installed. I also show the foam cradles I made for working on locos. Hope this helps. I think it’s a great option if space is limited and is very affordable. https://youtu.be/scxceUc7_QM

Gerhardt, where did you buy the one you have; what's the product number; and, what did it cost?

David98 posted:

Blake, where did you get that nifty adjustable-looking stool by your workbench?  What make/model is it? 

David

I found it on Amazon for something like 50 bucks with free shipping.

I use my work benches for various projects, so mine are heavy duty.  I started with 4x4's for my legs.  The length of the 4x4's is determined this way.  Stand erect like you would be standing at a work bench.  Put your arms at a 90 degree angle and measure the distance to the floor.  This is your working height, so that your lower arms are always parallel to the work surface.  Now take into consideration your bench top.  Since I wanted a surface I could really pound on i used two pieces of particle board and on top of the particle board a layer of thin Hardboard.  Make sure you subtract this thickness from the previous dimension.  I used 1 by material for my stretchers.  If you want drawers under your table I would use 1x6 or if you can find it 1x8's for your top stretcher as this makes a nice entry for your drawers.  1x4's are fine for bottom stretchers.  On making the top, I laminated the particle sheets together.  Knowing that the top would take a beating after a number of years, I left the thin hardboard sheet to float.  So that it does not float away. I rimmed the bench top with 2x2 material level with the bench top.  This gives the hardboard a place to settle into and I can replace it as necessary.  Two more suggestions.  One is of course keep your bottom stretchers of the floor by at least 6 inches.  There is nothing worst than going to your workbench and stubbing your toes.  The second is make the benchtop with a 3 or 4 inch overhang on all sides unless your bench goes up against a wall where 3 sides would be satisfactory.  You can use this overhang for clamping.  The depth of the bench top should be such that reaching across should not be a distance where you can't reach because that is where you will find that missing screw.  Again standing erect reach out from your shoulder and down and measure the distance from your waist to the extent of your reach.  That is your benchtop depth.  These instructions were given to me by a very accomplished Wood worker, my Father-in-law.  My benches are very functional.  I forgot to mention.  Let your stretchers into your 4x4 legs.  This will provide lateral structure and use Carriage bolts to tie everything together.  You may move one day.  I have pictures of my benches and If I find them I will post them.

Hi Pingman,

It’s from Home Depot. Here is a picture as well as link. It was $80 Canadian including shipping so it will likely be closer to $60 in the US.  https://www.homedepot.ca/produ...back-wall/1001015308
It also includes the pegboard as shown in the video.  Product number should be the same. Hope that helps, 

G

I forgot to mention after looking at my picture.  I have a number of outlets available as you can see.  One outlet is for ethernet, one is a 20 Amp circuit and two are for a 15 amp circuit.  I have found with battery chargers even this number is not enough so a fused/CB power strip is a necessity.

Finally took some pix. The cabinets are from some old Science labs that we took out for a renovation at the University I work for. They are solid maple, I should say rock solid. The tops are two layers of particle board, also very solid. Excuse the mess- it's overdue for a clean up once I get that building finished.

The vice came from my wife's grandfather's shop. He was a carpenter and cabinet maker for the City of NY. It's probably over 100 years old.

This topic comes up regularly.   I have a 6 foot bench that's 36" deep.  I have all my parts in drawers and below in a bunch of the Harbor Freight totes.  The shelves have my test equipment and assorted.  My computer desk is next to the workbench, keep everything handy.  I also have cabinets and a couple of work tables close.

I was fortunate to have the entire finished basement for my trains and workshops.  Even have a half bath on this level.

I bought a computer desk kit from Walmart and added an extension cord. It meets my needs but I am not into large repair projects.

Workbench.   (10' X 30")   Fabricated with MDO (Medium Density Overlay) board, and 2" X 4" framing.   Click on the underlined to access a slideshow.  (Click on Start slideshow)  Upper left control panel.  

Lighting is important. 

Ok, so this will put a smile on ur face.  A panorama of the work area.  And don’t rag on me about straightening up the place.  I just did it yesterday, 

TedW posted:

Ok, so this will put a smile on ur face.  A panorama of the work area.  And don’t rag on me about straightening up the place.  I just did it yesterday, 

In this day and age this is something that would suffice as a "Stay-at-Home" Project.  I admire the amount of space you have for your shop.

Here's my nightmare basement "hideout":

It might look like disorganized chaos, and it sort of is I guess. But believe it or not, I can usually  find what I need fairly fast. Its one doorway away from the train room, so it all works. The stub track at the left end is a service track that comes from the layout, through a hole in the wall. On the layout side the hole is concealed by a 2 stall IHC engine house. When servicing something I add the extension track that is standing up against the wall just left of the precariously stacked parts bins. Benchtop is a 76" x 30" piece of 3/4" birch plywood. There are drawers both sides below the bench top and more storage in the center below. I also like lots and LOTS of light when I am "hiding" down here.

Rod

Well, my old workbench was a disaster. I think it was a kit from Handy Andy I got 40 over years ago.  The top was disintegrating but the legs were just fine.  Don't enjoy sitting on a stool working so I shortened the legs enough to lower the new top to a comfortable height for me to sit (I'm 70) and work.  My new top is a counter top from IKEA ($50) and the new work bench was assembled upside down and that way everything is squared up nicely.  The top is 74" long and nominally one inch plus something like 1/16" thick and it's 27" wide.   The material is some version of particle board covered with a pretty tough looking laminate surface.   It will not support its own weight over a span more than 30" and so some kind of support in the middle is very crucial.  I picked up another laminate shelf to attach underneath to add support and attached with construction adhesive & screws.  After that I took a scrap of 3/4" plywood 12" x 24" and attached it in the center to distribute the load even more to prevent having a camel hump in the middle of the top from the support I built from 1/2" galvanized water pipe.  I chose to go that route because I had all the flanges and pieces of pipe right here. (from an ill-fated project that we won't discuss)  I also have a pipe threader so that wasn't a problem.  Measuring the pipes accurately before cutting I would say is probably the hardest part of supporting the top this way but it afforded some fine tuning once the work bench was in place and checked for level.  I also made a bottom shelf from a scrap of 3/4" plywood to tie the legs together and keeps the pipes centered.  The rubber mat keeps my feet off the concrete and is incidentally  a piece of an old belt from a rock crusher at a quarry.  Love to know how much it cost to replace that.  I bought another laminate shelf to make a backsplash and ripped in to 6" strips.  The back piece is another laminate shelf.  probably spent $100 on materials and had all the screws and adhesive on hand.  I already had a tool drawer on the old bench and reused that.  I can't remember the manufacturer but know that it came from Menards.   Really like it and wish I could find another one. 

Wow, there are some terrific work benches out there with some very creative designs and materials.  I'll be needing to build a workbench when we get in our new house and i get up to our new home in Lewisville, TX.  Probably won't be any room for a layout (AGAiN #%*&!!!) but I will have a workbench.  I've been making a list of what I want in the design and how I want the layout of the tools and such.   Thanks for all the different and great pictures, they are very helpful and thanks for this thread.  Great thread, terrific pictures and some wonderful answers and suggestions.

Stay safe and healthy!!

Having lived in the Mid-Cities, i know about the lack of Basements due to the movement of the Red Clay.  I knew a number of people who missed the extra room.  Their answer was a separate or better a second Garage with a second story where the train layouts were built.  Summer was a bear though on storage of rolling stock unless you included HVAC for the out-building.  Land should not be an issue as Texas has plenty of it. It's always bigger in Texas.

My backroom has a couple of work benches, and of course, more storage.  This backroom is where most sawing, drilling, and grinding take place.

I built this one about 20 years ago, it's 8' long and 2' wide.  It's 2x4 construction with 4x4 legs.  The top is 3/4" plywood topped with 3/4" OSB.  I can stand in the middle of it and jump up and down, nothing moves.  It's truly built like a battleship!  I slid a couple of Ikea drawer sets under it for storage.

This one is a very old Sears 60" bench, about 45 years old.  A convenient place for bench tools.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

My backroom has a couple of work benches, and of course, more storage.  This backroom is where most sawing, drilling, and grinding take place.

I built this one about 20 years ago, it's 8' long and 2' wide.  It's 2x4 construction with 4x4 legs.  The top is 3/4" plywood topped with 3/4" OSB.  I can stand in the middle of it and jump up and down, nothing moves.  It's truly built like a battleship!  I slid a couple of Ikea drawer sets under it for storage.

This one is a very old Sears 60" bench, about 45 years old.  A convenient place for bench tools.

John, you're just too organized! I have to go out to the garage for sawing, drilling, etc. Seriously though, your setup is very nice.

Rod

Thanks for the info, Gerhardt.