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I have never installed an O-Scale 2-Rail turnout.

 

The shelf portions of my layout are 12" wide, from the wall to the edge.  The inner track centerline is spaced 2-1/2" from the wall.

 

I have a 4-1/2" clearance between the centerlines of the mainline tracks. Only one train will ever be running.

 

There is 5" from the centerline of the outer track to the edge of the shelf, which would allow a 4" spacing from the centerline of the outer track to the centerine of a siding.

 

Would an Atlas #5 switch fit in this space?

 

If I have cars on the siding, would 4" be enough clearance?  (I can allow more clearance on the adjacent curve)

 

Thanks,

BAD ORDER

 

 

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Last edited by Former Member
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4 inches is plenty of clearance for side by side cars.   It works on curves too if the radius is not too tight.    I basically allow 4 inches width for any track as a starting point.    sometimes I modify slightly.    4 inches for adjacent yard tracks allows for big fingers to get in and rerail or remove if necessary.

 

THANKS EVERYONE!

 

Aaaaaaah...I'm so relieved that it will work!

 

Since I use Atlas Flex Track, I can provide even more clearance in the corner turns.

 

I'll put the first turnout on the straight outside Main, then extend the siding around the corner curve and rejoin it to the other straight outside Main using another turnout! 

 

It's OK if my extra loco and cars stand on a curved siding, isn't it?

 

Thanks a lot for your assurance!

 

BAD ORDER

 

 

 

 

HEY JOHN C,

 

I don't install any curves...I put 40" sections of straight Flex Track in place and bend them into curves, spiking the track down as I create the curve.

 

I always align my Flex Track over a pre-drawn route on the roadbed that I make from a straightedge and a constant-radius trammel beam.

 

Cheers,

BAD ORDER (Here are my Trammel Beams...I don't use the 36" radius anymore)

 

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Originally Posted by Bad Order Hal:

 

HEY JOHN C,

 

I don't install any curves...I put 40" sections of straight Flex Track in place and bend them into curves, spiking the track down as I create the curve.

You may have missed the point that John C was making about placing your longest car on the siding, then see if another one of your other long cars strikes the adjacent car.  Try not to get caught up in semantics of exactly HOW you lay your track, but the importance of resulting clearances on curves.

 

 

HEY HOT WATER,

 

I knew exactly what John C. was talking about, and it is indeed an important consideration when planning track laying!  I know this from the track I have laid on my railroad!

 

I simply wanted him to know that I don't install fixed curves! All 123.5 feet of my main line consists of Flex track.

 

That's all.....

 

BAD ORDER

 

 

Last edited by Former Member
I think using all flex is better, less "connections" but I did wimp out and bought a wide variety of Gargraves Curves so that I wouldn't wear my saw blades out! 
 
Originally Posted by Bad Order Hal:

 

 

HEY HOT WATER,

 

I knew exactly what John C. was talking about, and it is indeed an important consideration when planning track laying!  I know this from the track I have laid on my railroad!

 

I simply wanted him to know that I don't install fixed curves! All 123.5 feet of my main line consists of Flex track.

 

That's all.....

 

BAD ORDER

 

 

 

 

HEY ROYBOY,

 

My tastes may change, but my layout's physical constraints limit my curves to no larger than a 43" radius.  Even if I had the room for 96" radius curves, I probably still wouldn't go for the bigger stuff.

 

In model railroads, I never did entertain the possibility of running a Big Boy or a Challenger, and certainly not 90-foot Pullman coaches!

 

Early-era short rolling stock (40 ft & shorter) and small locos...that's my style!

 

Railroads look bigger when they run smaller equipment, and this is why I'm selling my barely used GP-60 and will be running my SW-9 Switcher as a road engine, because it's nice and small!

 

Even my recently-purchased Atlas GP-35 seems too big!

 

BAD ORDER HAL

 

 

Even though I am blessed with a larger space, the majority of my buildings are small undersized O scale structures.  To create the illusion of distance, I use HO buildings in the background.
 
I do enjoy the large full-scale equipment and have several pieces.  But I do admit that even as large as my layout is filling a basement the smaller stuff does make the railroad look much larger.
 
When running the bigger stuff, I try to keep the bigger stuff and smaller stuff separated because together on a train it looks awkward. 
 
Originally Posted by Bad Order Hal:

 

HEY ROYBOY,

 

My tastes may change, but my layout's physical constraints limit my curves to no larger than a 43" radius.  Even if I had the room for 96" radius curves, I probably still wouldn't go for the bigger stuff.

 

In model railroads, I never did entertain the possibility of running a Big Boy or a Challenger, and certainly not 90-foot Pullman coaches!

 

Early-era short rolling stock (40 ft & shorter) and small locos...that's my style!

 

Railroads look bigger when they run smaller equipment, and this is why I'm selling my barely used GP-60 and will be running my SW-9 Switcher as a road engine, because it's nice and small!

 

Even my recently-purchased Atlas GP-35 seems too big!

 

BAD ORDER HAL

 

 

 

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
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