I picked up a Z4000 Transformer for a reasonable price...that I was told that it worked fine. When I turned it on...the Volt Meter for track #1 Left Handle ..first read 0.5 than went up to 11 Volts and slowly climbed to 17 Volts and stayed there. The AMP Meter would toogle back and forth between 0.1 to 0.2. There was not anything connected to those posts. I connected the track wires to..track #2 posts (Right Handle) and it worked fine. It had no effect on the Left Handle issues. The right handle voltage ...when nothing was connected to it...was between 0.1 volts to 0.2volts. The serial number is...#119832490. What can be causing this problem ? Can anyone explain to me what can the problem possibly be....what how do I fix it.
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But a lighted lock on and see if voltage out is real. Or test under load as above. G
@Überstationmeister posted:The two above quoted lines are normal behavior. I am not sure what is going on with the left handle. However, since the right handle works i.e. it was able to exit the startup mode, I do not think it is the potentiometer "skip" issue. (Z4000 "knows" when the handles are "off" and will not exit startup until both handles are "off") Did you try the left handle under load?
Yes,I did try the Left Handle under load. I acted the same....like if it had no load on it. The voltage stayed high ...even with the handle shut down. The reaction was like I was moving the handle to 13 to 17 volts. If you put a car with lights on it...they were bright. If you put an engine on the track that the Left Handle controls, it acts like I was feeding it 13 to 17 volts....and the AMP Meter goes up to at least 2.9 and above. I understand that some of the Z4000 Transformers have Voltage Leaks when the handles are shut all the way down. The issue is the Left Handle with the high Voltage. I am not new to the Z4000 Transformers and MTH Trains. I have a massive collection of MTH Trains. I am just not a tech...and don't understand train electrical issues. I just thought that maybe...someone might have ever had the same issue that I am having. Here are a few pictures of what I am talking about.
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So this is the hard part now. Is it the control board or the power supply board. Of course not sure you can get either. I have replaced a failed power fet before and it is possible that is the only issue. Shipping is the killer. G
Not to detract from GGG's advice, but it may also be the control pot that is actuated when you move the handle. I have had two fail like that over the years. The pot is a generic electronic component inexpensively available at a jobber or online. Can't just recall the value but hopefully someone will know. You can test it in place with an ohmmeter to see what it's doing when you rotate it. Unsolder the 3 wires first. If it's flakey or open anywhere through its full revolution it needs replacing. The value should be stamped on the metal case. That would be my first check.
Rod