Z Transformer

Which Z?

What track?

My Transformer is  - Type Z   250 Watt Trainmaster

Running 031 Track, covering almost a 4 X 8 foot oval track.

On a 4x8, 1 Lockon should be enough to provide steady operation on O31, so your issue points to mechanical issues with the train.

Or really bad/dirty track with poor conductivity between track joints.

@Tracker John posted:

Or really bad/dirty track...

Really REALLY bad with three lockons! I assumed that the reconditioned "Z" purchaser probably has decent track to match.

The bottom line, you are using tubular track and those joints are highly prone to being loose and poor higher resistance connections. And while yes, multiple lockons helps rather than a single power entry point into the loop- again, joint (track pin) connections are still at play and resistance matters. They must be clean and tightly gripping the pins- both sides of the joints.

On top of that, many postwar engines are voltage sensitive and higher amperage draw than modern equipment so yes, even more influenced by bad track joints and high resistance situation.

Last corners/curves cause drag- so yes, again, another factor changing and vary the train load and thus current and voltage as the train runs around.

Just adding power drops/feeds/lockons, unless you do it to every piece of track- you are depending on track joints to carry the power and be low resistance.

@My Lionel posted:

Recently purchased a reconditioned Lionel Z Transformer, running over 8 cars on my 4 X 8 Track.

Attached 3 Lock-ons around my track, constantly have to adjust the speed on this transformer, either running too slow or too fast.

Is there a  way that I can keep a steady speed on my layout.

Thank You, Larry

I'm assuming if you're using lock-ons, you're also using tubular three-rail track. With that in mind, if you're using three lock-ons on a 4 by 8 oval and are still having speed control problems, I think you might need to take drastic measures.

Specifically, I'd suggest your first course of action should be to tear up the track, pull all the connecting pins, and clean, reassemble and tighten all those pins. Then, after inspecting for any obvious damage to the track, test each piece, all three rails, for both insulation (between the center and outer rails) and conductivity (end to end for each rail) before reassembling the track plan, testing for conductivity every few pieces or section by section as you reassemble the track. Be sure to clean the inside of each rail end, using a small circular file or some similar implement, as well as the pin itself, and of course replace any section of track that shows any sign of damage, or fails to both insulate and conduct properly after cleaning and testing.

BTW, if you have something more complicated than a simple oval on your layout, any extended or complicated curves or elevation changes may be contributing to the speed problems, but if as you reported, you're having to constantly adjust the throttle, I suspect by far the most likely candidate is track conductivity as above, but if you still have an unacceptable level of problems after cleaning and inspecting the track, you may need to consider redesigning your track plan. In any event, good luck!

@My Lionel posted:

Recently purchased a reconditioned Lionel Z Transformer, running over 8 cars on my 4 X 8 Track.

Attached 3 Lock-ons around my track, constantly have to adjust the speed on this transformer, either running too slow or too fast.

Is there a  way that I can keep a steady speed on my layout.

Thank You, Larry

What locomotive are you running?

On a 4 x 8 oval, with clean track pins, one Lockon should be sufficient.  There may be a slight slowing down/speeding up, but certainly not enough of either to require a hand on the throttle.

Do you have another transformer that you can use as a temporary substitute?  Can you try one of the other outputs of the Z?  Maybe the wiper of the output you're using is less than perfect.  My original 4 x 8 027 oval would run unattended with a 1033.

After running a few minutes, are there warm spots along the middle rail? Test with the back of a finger; it's more sensitive. Those are resistance locations.

Look carefully at your track for humps, bumps, and "pinch points" in the gauge, where perhaps one outside rail got stepped on and pushed toward the center, causing an increase in friction.

My main question: Is your table level??  Get a short level (about 6"-8" long) and move it along the track just like the train runs.  If there's an uphill or downhill slope, a postwar steam loco will find it!!  As toys for children, they really weren't made for "hands off" operation.  Series motors are inherently sensitive to load, so it's best to keep a hand on or near the throttle at all times.  If you desire hands-off, constant speed operation, try a twin-motored diesel, or even better, one of the newer locos with a can motor and "speed control."

If you solve the issue, please post back and let us know the cause.

A lot of it depends on what you’re running too.  For instance, the Lionel starter set 4-4-2’s will slow down in curves no matter what you’re running them with.  I have one that slows to a crawl at the far end regardless of the track it’s running on or what it’s pulling.

Any chance for a few photos...layout, track condition, loco, cars, et al??  Or, a short video of running the loop showing the slow points?

You know..."A picture's worth ...."?!

------------

Good suggestions in the above responses.

You might also check how free-rolling the cars (and loco tender, dummy diesel units, if any) are.  Until we know more about the train itself, using O31 track leads one to assume postwar equipment.  Without thorough cleaning (e.g.,pet hair, old gunky residues on bearing surfaces, caked on gunk on wheel treads, rust, etc., etc..) and proper re-lubing they eventually can become quite a load on the poor loco.  And, ditto re maintenance of the loco.

Want to do a subjective check?  Fasten a few straight pieces of track to a piece of 1x board.  Place a car on one end of the track. Slowly lift the end of the board to induce the car to free roll.  How high did you have to lift the board to get it to roll?  Same amount all cars?  Pick a car, thoroughly clean the wheels and bearing surfaces, re-lube, re-check the free roll.  Better?

Then, re cleaning the inside of the track rails...especially the inside surfaces of the outer two rails on curved track.  When a train is rolling on straight track, the wheel-to-track load is minimized.  The flanges help keep the train centered between the rails.  But, when the toy train encounters a curve...the sharp O31 and O27 curves, especially...those large flanges have more of a 'scrubbing' contact with the inner surfaces of the curved rails.  This scrubbing action is not unlike the function of a brake, designed to slow down a rotating wheel.  Of course, the flanges are necessary to keep the train on the track.

So all of that adds to the load on the engine.  IOW, slow-downs on the curves for these toy trains are somewhat to be expected even with the best of all other conditions...IMHO, of course.

And, yes...as Ted 'sed': "If you solve the issue, please post back and let us know the cause."

KD

I'd suggest using a multimeter/voltmeter and start at one of your lock-ons and take a base reading - go section by section and take readings - if you hit track sections where there's a drop in voltage you can pull that section and check/tighten loose pins or replace that section with a clean piece. You can also check to make sure the rails are crimped to the ties securely, and that the center rail insulating carboard isn't damaged.

You might also check the voltage coming from the transformers' posts - use some alligator clips to secure the leads to the posts and then sweep from the off position up to 25 volts (you'll probably be a volt or two below the maximum voltage). Was the circuit breaker replaced? Those can also act oddly if they're old - they have a finite lifespan.

What engine are you running? If it's a eight drive wheel steamer, it could be binding, slowing up on the radius track.

"I'd suggest using a multimeter/voltmeter and start at one of your lock-ons and take a base reading - go section by section and take readings - if you hit track sections where there's a drop in voltage you can pull that section and check/tighten loose pins or replace that section with a clean piece. "

Nope. There will be no noticeable voltage drop without a significant load on the track. This has been discussed and explained a hundred times on this and other forums.

In addition, if there is more than one Lockon, you won't be able to tell which direction to look to find the resistance.  Google, for example, "sneak path."