Z4K Tracks

First the Z4K tracks vary the transformer output. They start out at zero and you scroll up and down the voltage of the transformer. They can be set to go from zero to 18 volts with 1 click of the thumbwheel, but to run conventional, don't set them that way. To start out just use a caboose or other car with lights instead of an engine to to see if you can operate the transformer with the remote. Works like a charm.

I did have a problem with one engine years ago going over a Ross switch that would make a small spark causing the transformer to drop to zero. I just took a dremel and cut a very small piece out of the offending rail and all was good. The nice thing about the Z4K tracks is that you don't have to reset any thing. You just scroll the voltage back up to get your train going again.

@Arnold D. Cribari - You're fear is not  unwarranted.  I saw that happen once at one of the local model railroad clubs.  They required members to slowly turn up the voltage on the Z4000 that was feeding the TIU and a member had shoved it up to 20 in one fell swoop.

Anthony

Joe and Anthony, thanks for your excellent advice.

Arnold,

If  you happen to have the original Z-4000 remote that came with the Z-4000 side receiver, you can use that without worrying about the engine taking off as it only works conventional engines.   I had the Z-4000 remote and receiver before DCS came out and it worked great  and I still use it to run conventional engines.  I found that if for some reason the E-STOP on the DCS remote doesn't resond, the Z-4000 E-STOP will drop the voltage on the transformer to zero and you don't have to reset anything.  Just roll up the voltage again when ready.                                                     

I believe if you follow Barry's recommendations, you should be fine. Just use the lighted car until you get familiar with working the DCS remote to make sure you don't have an engine take off fast.

@Joe Allen - It's interesting you should bring up the E-Stop.  I don't have a Z4k, just power bricks fed straight into the TIU (as of currently) and I've wondered about placing E-Stops along the sides of my layout.  It's actually on my list of to be posts, so you might see something to that effect in a few weeks.

Anthony

@Joe Allen posted:

Arnold,

If  you happen to have the original Z-4000 remote that came with the Z-4000 side receiver, you can use that without worrying about the engine taking off as it only works conventional engines.   I had the Z-4000 remote and receiver before DCS came out and it worked great  and I still use it to run conventional engines.  I found that if for some reason the E-STOP on the DCS remote doesn't resond, the Z-4000 E-STOP will drop the voltage on the transformer to zero and you don't have to reset anything.  Just roll up the voltage again when ready.                                                     

I believe if you follow Barry's recommendations, you should be fine. Just use the lighted car until you get familiar with working the DCS remote to make sure you don't have an engine take off fast.

Good point, Joe. I do have the Z4000 remote as well as the receiver.

I use the Z4K remote as well for conventional locos. I find the smooth operation of its thumb wheel a lot easier for conventional running, compared to the clicks of the DCS remote wheel. It's also less wear-and-tear on the DCS remote.

@BlueComet400 posted:

It's also less wear-and-tear on the DCS remote.

You want to keep those healthy, never know if you can get more.