can you hook two different posts to the same isolated track? The main line A post to bring trains off the siding, switch it off and then use B to control a bump and go trolley on the siding? Or will this damage the transformer.
Original Post
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Pretty sure it should have a switch so that only one runs at a time. Probably a center "off" DPDT toggle; otherwise the trolley would run while the locomotive was being run.
The trolly sits on an isolated track. I want to be able to use the main line post to seamlessly transition to the main, then switch over to my be post.
Ok, so you have engine on one siding, a trolley on another siding , and you want engine to pull engine on a siding with trottle A, park it; and now trolley on throttle B to pulls onto the main.... is that right? (bump and go or throttle reversing?)
First off dont use two "hot" posts tied together. (only phased commons should ever run post to post ) A switch or two will have to keep them seperate (or isolating sidings into blocks)
But this is easier to do with just one throttle and a toggle to decide which siding gets any power. (or Lionel slide switch)
So.. the loco pulls onto siding A and you put it in neutral (3pos only) & close that turnout, now open the siding B turnout, lower throttle, and finally throw the power toggle... power on siding A is now off for engine; siding B is now active, raise the trottle again to run the trolley. (A-on/B-on" type switch)
You could make it change throttles but why when it could be power for another loop, block, etc. later on.
If you isolate your sidings, you could run the main on a big handle and power the sidings off two of the three unused throttles, no toggle needed.
So lets say one big throttle for the main, and one big throttle for the engine siding (for the whistle 
). And then one small throttle powers the trolley's siding allowing it to enter the main.
To do this, isolate the center rail of each siding from the turnout center rails with plastic pins. (keep turnouts on the main power, or constant, so once loco is parked you have the main or constant power to work the turnouts with before using the trolley( or visa versa.). ...(leave any turnout outer rail plastic pins for anti-derail, in place. I.e. you may end up with 2 of 3 pins being plastic. Jumping a better common feed to the sidings is suggested where you end up with 2 plasitic pins due to anti-deral.)
Id use either both L or both R throttles for the sidings and opposing side for main and acc/sw. power.
Thank you, you answered a lot of questions. I have the inner loop on one throttle, the outer on the other throttle, and wanted to control the siding with two different throttles. I ordered more switches.
About the suggestion for jumping common to the siding. Really, you should avoid passing power through a turnout. Lionel has always suggested 1 lock-on be used on each turnout leg (3) . The wire is a better electrical path than intetnal traces of a switch. (You don't HAVE to, but it was always suggest to)
Ok, for two loops & one siding it's really the same.... just remove the word "siding" and insert "loop X" for one instance of "siding".
Ok, now I get what you are up to also. Is the siding off one loop or connect to both. Just curious.... if isolated right it won't really matter.
There is one thing to mention on blocks; passenger car lighting can run into a snag if there are two rollers. There is some funky peaks and surges that happen in the short period that 2 rollers bridging two blocks can undergo.
. The motors and electronics are usually ok but it usually cooks light bulbs in pass. cars very fast. .... The fix is to simply to give the lamp/rollers "polyfuses". A polyfuse will "drop" one roller's feed if both "try too hard" at the same time.
That’s why I’m trying to ease through the blocks with one throttle and then throw the switch to the 3rd throttle for siding bumper trolly action. I’m using k-line turnout switches and only one is being used as a lock on. I have I think 4 dedicated lock ons on this 4x8.
