zw whistle wafers

I just did this. You need a pair of 11N1190AR diodes, the nuts and some washers. Pop the quick-nuts with the black wire off and discard the discs and mounting hardware. De-solder the black wire from the quick nut and put your diode in the hole. Resolder the black wire to the loop in the diode. While you've got everything apart, might as well clean the shaft underneath and re-dielectric the copper contact.

SteamWolf posted:

...While you've got everything apart, might as well clean the shaft underneath and re-dielectric the copper contact.

I wouldn't use an insulating compound or material here - performance may suffer.

ADCX Rob posted:

SteamWolf posted:

...While you've got everything apart, might as well clean the shaft underneath and re-dielectric the copper contact.

I wouldn't use an insulating compound or material here - performance may suffer.

I've never had an issue with silicone grease on any electrical component and have flooded non-weathertight connections with the stuff on vehicles.

Edit: also, mine had some kind of gunky grease on it before, and the voltmeter showed another 5vAC when I triggered the whistle after reassembly.

You may have been using a conductive grease, instead.

SteamWolf posted:

I just did this. You need a pair of 11N1190AR diodes, the nuts and some washers. Pop the quick-nuts with the black wire off and discard the discs and mounting hardware. De-solder the black wire from the quick nut and put your diode in the hole. Resolder the black wire to the loop in the diode. While you've got everything apart, might as well clean the shaft underneath and re-dielectric the copper contact.

Thank you for the information.  What is the source for the diodes you are recommending?

I believe there is a typo, and the diodes are 1N1190AR available here.

Larry

Thank you.