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Can anyone point me in the direction of an actual service manual for this engine? I have the 4-page exploded diagram but need to know what screws to undo to lift the body off the frame for maintenance purposes (cleaning and lube).

Previous links offered by forum members in the past no longer work.

Thanks,

Roger Lee

Original Post

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First you remove the rear truck by removing the long slotted screw holding the front of the truck and drawbar to the frame.  Then remove the small phillips screw just behind it in the center under the drawbar. With the plate removed remove the two larger phillips screws that hold the rear of the boiler to the frame and then the large phillips screw almost directly below the stack that also holds the lever for the front truck in place. The boiler should lift off at that point.

Pete

Last edited by Norton
Norton posted:

First you remove the rear truck by removing the long slotted screw holding the front of the truck and drawbar to the frame.  Then remove the small phillips screw just behind it in the center under the drawbar. With the plate removed remove the two larger phillips screws that hold the rear of the boiler to the frame and then the large phillips screw almost directly below the stack that also holds the lever for the front truck in place. The boiler should lift off at that point.

Pete

Thank you Pete! I'll give that a try tonight when I get home.

I need to clean out the old grease as it has been on "display" for 10+ years and I'm having a hard time turning the drive wheels by hand, never mind having it run with power applied.

Roger

I am putting my 1-700 back together. It had been upgraded to tmcc and a timko can motor but included all the original stuff like eunit and ac motor. The tmcc stuff was dead and i didnt want to spend on it. Question is do i use the timko motor with a full wave rectifier and original e unit or go with the pullmor, i did test run with the timko and it ran hot but that was before cleaning and proper lube.  Thoughts? Suggestions????

romiller49 posted:

The mounting screws are most likely the same as the 783 784 and 785 Hudson’s however I’m sure there are some valve attachments connecting the frame and boiler. Be careful before pulling the the boiler away from the frame until these small details are unhooked.

Well, I found that out the hard way. (1) I had to disconnect the Reach Rod; during reassembly I lost the Reach Rod Screw; will need to include that with my next parts order (2) the Lubricator Lever Assembly had to be removed (3) I had to remove a piping detail under the right side cab window (4) reassembly was tricky as multiple items needed to be realigned before the boiler and frame would reseat themselves to allow the screws to be tightened fully.

It sure is a lot more complicated than working on baby Hudsons like the 2065 and 2056 which I've worked on over the years.

BTW the exploded diagram in Supplement 20 is pretty good but is missing some detail.

Roger

Can anyone provide a diagram or explanation of the constant voltage light board original to this loco? There are 2 wires. I put ac (center rail) to the yellow wire on the board which goes to a diode on the board and used the red wire (dc+?) to the bulb nipple. I think frame should be ac-dc common. Work on bench but in loco no light. If i take the bulb common and put to ac center rail it works but that is not really possible to do with the loco body being common. 

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