12'x13' Layout Construction - March 7, 2023

I admire you guys who have the time and space to build elaborate setups.  This looks like a great start.  sShow us progress photos.

Harry, congratulations on getting the process started. What is the scale that you used for your drawings? What dimensions are your curves?

Thank you

Jay

Harry - both designs look very promising! The second one is right up my alley - double track mainline, engine house, and a yard!? I'd be in heaven!

One thought, what if you connect the inter-most siding (4th from the left, closest to the main lines) to the outer main line? They are close in proximity and this would provide a 'passing siding' and also the opportunity to pull train in rather than backing them in.

I would also recommend putting in a 'ready track' for the engine house so that it's not directly connected to the mainline.

An overall suggestion, lay the tracks out and run trains for a few weeks without the track being nailed down, this will reveal any flaws that you might find in operation or shows anything that you might want to add. Doing it before nailing the track down will allow you do make slight adjustments to the design without it being a big hassle to move the track around.

I'll definitely be following along here and on your linked youtube channel!

Looks like a great start! If people are helping you, get photos of them working on the layout. I'm sure they'll appreciate seeing them years down the road.

Congratulations on getting started!!  Your second, working drawing looks the best.  You need that space in the center.  I am assuming you plan to duck under to get into the center.  You look plenty young that it won't be a problem.  My layout occupies a space of 11x8 and at my age I needed to provide a lift up or lift out bridge section to get in the middle.  I'm looking forward to seeing more about your layout construction!

Your off to a great start Harry.

@Tranquil Hollow RR posted:

What is the scale that you used for your drawings? What dimensions are your curves?

Jay: the scale of both drawings 1/2" to 1 foot. The squares of the grid are each 1/4", so 1 square equals 6". I also have numbers marking the feet along the top and left sides of the plans.

The mainlines are O72 and O80. The curve going into the yard is O54.

@Prr7688 posted:

One thought, what if you connect the inter-most siding (4th from the left, closest to the main lines) to the outer main line? They are close in proximity and this would provide a 'passing siding' and also the opportunity to pull train in rather than backing them in.

I would also recommend putting in a 'ready track' for the engine house so that it's not directly connected to the mainline.

An overall suggestion, lay the tracks out and run trains for a few weeks without the track being nailed down, this will reveal any flaws that you might find in operation or shows anything that you might want to add. Doing it before nailing the track down will allow you do make slight adjustments to the design without it being a big hassle to move the track around.

Prr7688: I have considered connecting one of the yard tracks to the main line as you have suggested. At this point, I'm still not sure, however I will keep toying with the idea.

While I would like to have a 'ready track' for the service facility, I don't think there is enough space. However, the service tracks may end up being longer in reality than in the drawing.

I will certainly take your suggestion and get trains running before tacking everything down.

@Mark Boyce posted:

Congratulations on getting started!!  Your second, working drawing looks the best.  You need that space in the center.  I am assuming you plan to duck under to get into the center.  You look plenty young that it won't be a problem.  My layout occupies a space of 11x8 and at my age I needed to provide a lift up or lift out bridge section to get in the middle.  I'm looking forward to seeing more about your layout construction!

Mark: yes, I will be ducking under to get into the center of the layout.

Thanks Harry, I’m in the process of finalizing my drawings via graph paper and I appreciate your insights.

No pictures today, but I have been getting work done. Over the last few weekends, I have been applying 6mm cork sheets over the surface of the layout for sound deadening. The sheets are 2'x3' sections. I've had to do some trimming because all the doors are 6'8" long, and two of them are 30" wide, not 3' like the rest. I only have one door left to cover, and thats the one with the column going through it, so that will be a challenge when the time comes.

Other than that, I'm waiting on a circle of O80 curves from GarGraves and the 4-way and cross over switches from Ross. I know what other switches I need, just haven't gotten around to ordering them yet.

So thats the current stage of the layout. The biggest setback is just waiting for track now. Once that comes in, things should start picking up!

Sounds like a good plan, Harry!

Looking forward to more updates.....

Peter

Harry, congrats on taking the plunge.  I joined OGR in 2018 and have found that these folks are the absolute best in model railroading!  Have you tried out AnyRail software.  The free version could give you some help on tricky areas.  Also, I bought Jim Barrett's book (RIP Jim).  Could be good reference material for you.  Really looking forward to seeing your project grow.

Harry, the use of doors is a great idea.  They’re lighter and perhaps easier to manage in setting up.  I am developing a new layout presently, and was considering ¾” ply, but the doors might work.  My layout will be “L” shaped, about 12’x8’x48” wide on both legs.  Might mean a narrower dimension but perhaps more workable in the space I have.  Thanks for the update.  Keep us posted.

Sorry I didn't see this sooner, but just some food for thought.  As currently designed, your trains can only run in one direction after leaving the yard, and I mean always in one direction because there is no provision for turning locomotives other than "the hand of God" (YOU in this case).  In addition, there is no way for any train to service the industry off the inner main line unless it pushes those cars out of the yard, and even then, it looks like you will have to push those cars all the way around the loop before crossing over to the inner loop.

Please take the time to do some reading about model railroad operations before you start laying track.  It can be a lot of fun and helps prevent boredom from setting in while watching trains just run around the same circles/ovals.

Chuck

It's been a while since I have posted on the progress of my layout. Work has been slow with other things occupying my time, but I have made some decent progress. With the exception of one switch, all the track for the mainlines has been put together. Nothing is fastened down or wired, just put into position so I can trace out the track to lay cork roadbed, hopefully in the next few weeks.

Here are some progress photos, please pardon the mess:

These shots give an overview of the four sides of the layout. You can see in the first photo where I am waiting on the last switch to come in. This will lead off to the yard. I have been playing with how I will be setting up my yard tracks. I have a Ross 4-way at the throat. I am considering having the 4-way at an angle partway between the switch coming off the mainline and the yard tracks themselves (okay, that makes no sense in writing, so see the pictures below). This arrangement would allow for each yard track to be at least a foot longer as the tracks curve out of the 4-way. It will also help to hide a sharp curve as I plan on using O54 on the turn into the 4-way from the mainline. The one downside would be having to bend curves into the yard tracks. The geometry of the switch and the spacing I want would require the track closest to the wall to be the sharpest curve. Again, I'm still not 100% on this switch placement, it just came to me one day and I laid it out to see how it would work.

Also in regard to the yard area, I have elected to nix the engine service facility. Unfortunately, the area is just too small to make it work and look right. In the future when more space is available, and since the door modules can be fairly easily expanded, I can build a proper engine service facility. In the mean time, I have decided that my coaling tower and water column will be on the mainline itself, much like the concrete coaling tower on the old MC (I think) mainline near New Buffalo, MI/Michigan City, IN. I have used some of my passenger cars to test the clearance and it should not be an issue.

Hope everyone enjoys this update. It's been a while, but the little things here and there are gradually building up. Hope to have trains running soon!

@PRR1950 posted:

Sorry I didn't see this sooner, but just some food for thought.  As currently designed, your trains can only run in one direction after leaving the yard, and I mean always in one direction because there is no provision for turning locomotives other than "the hand of God" (YOU in this case).  In addition, there is no way for any train to service the industry off the inner main line unless it pushes those cars out of the yard, and even then, it looks like you will have to push those cars all the way around the loop before crossing over to the inner loop.

Please take the time to do some reading about model railroad operations before you start laying track.  It can be a lot of fun and helps prevent boredom from setting in while watching trains just run around the same circles/ovals.

Chuck

I would have replied to this sooner, but haven't spent a whole lot of time on the forum since my last update. I certainly thought through these concerns you raise while I was planning my layout, as they are also important to me and how I would like to operate.

Trains will be running clockwise on the inner loop and counterclockwise on the outer loop. This means that the industrial sidings are designed for a train to back in from their respective direction of travel.

In the case of the yard, a switcher will pull cars in and out of the spurs to build trains. To build a train for the inner main, the train would be built by a switcher in the yard, and brought to the inner main over the double cross-over. I have seen friends layout with similar yard setups (accessible from only one direction on one of several mainlines), and it works for them and I see no reason it shouldn't work for me.

Given the size of my layout and the surrounding space, there is no space for a reverse loop.

Harry:

Like you, I built my L-shaped O-gauge layout on door panels; in my case, hollow core - because lightweight - then covered with green patio carpeting for some sound deadening. My 15x19 layout fits in a L-shaped addition to the house built by the previous owner (as a home office). It's a tight fit, and the perimeter aisleways aren't as wide as they should be.

A suggestion ... consider installing an UPPER LEVEL in the future. If connected to the existing LOWER LEVEL with ascending and descending ramps, you could create space up there for features you had to give up now.

ANYRAIL pix of my two levels attached for reference. That track planning software is very useful with a relatively mild learning curve.

Mike Mottler    LCCA 12394

Harry, you are making good progress.  It is good to fit things together before seeing that something doesn't fit.

Congratulations on building your new layout!  Have you considered moving your your switch to the yard further back on the straight and making small adjustments to the length of your mainlines (moving them in) to help with the sharp curve of the yard approach?  This could also help you make the yard transition sooner, move the 4-way forward/extending the yard,  and with wider radius curves(possibly).  Your yard can never be big enough..... 

If you are min O-72 on the mainlines, for further planning/prevention it would be a good idea to keep the yard at a O-72 min...

Either way, keep up the good work!

Nicely done!

Peter

Harry - thanks for sharing!  Looks like you have the potential for very smooth operation!  It has also been my experience that once building begins, reality meets fantasy and things change.  Epiphany may be too strong, but definitely a new version of reality sets in!  Congratulations on being self-aware enough to change when you saw something you thought would be better.  It is a hobby, afterall!

@Mike H Mottler posted:

Like you, I built my L-shaped O-gauge layout on door panels; in my case, hollow core - because lightweight - then covered with green patio carpeting for some sound deadening. My 15x19 layout fits in a L-shaped addition to the house built by the previous owner (as a home office). It's a tight fit, and the perimeter aisleways aren't as wide as they should be.

A suggestion ... consider installing an UPPER LEVEL in the future. If connected to the existing LOWER LEVEL with ascending and descending ramps, you could create space up there for features you had to give up now.

Hello Mike. Thats cool that you have used doors for your layout, too. I like the plan  of your layout, looks like lots of action and accessories.

I have never really had any plan or intention to do an upper level on this layout. Given what I have planned to do, the current state wouldn't have any places to support an upper level, let alone provide room for a ramp. Great idea, though. It would definitely add more possibilities and interest.

After nearly a year, an update! I've been working on the layout, just haven't posted anything.

Track work was completed, including cork roadbed, back in July. In August, I wired both mainlines to separate power distribution blocks. Although I only run TMCC/Legacy, and do not currently have DCS, I wanted it to be compatible in case I add it in the future. This method also makes the layout modular, as each mainline track has one power drop per door/table, so it can be expanded or reconfigured if need be. Right after New Years I started work on my control panel. Each mainline has a voltmeter, ammeter, and 7 amp circuit breaker. I have yet to wire my switches and yard tracks.

Most of the work over the last month has been on streets and sidewalks for the town scene. I had a lot of extra and scrap cork sheets leftover from covering the doors, so I have been using that to make the sidewalks. The curb is a bit high (9-10 inches in scale terms), but it looks good. I bought black chalkboard paint for the streets and plan to use chalk (duh) to weather them. I haven't found a good color for the sidewalk concrete as of yet. Most of this work has been focused on one grade crossing near where the train station will be. This is my little test area. I have come up with a technique for making wooden grade crossings that I really like, which I will post a little later.

Harry, good to plan wiring for future possibilities.  The grade crossing looks good!  

Harry ,now you have me thinking about rebuilding my layout over ,the only problem i have is that at 79 years old ,i don't know if i have enough time left to Finnish it  ,i may be biting off more than i could chew ,i will think long & hard about this ,but you sure got my interest up & running .I do enjoy building a layout more than running trains ,so we will see where this leads to. A few photos of my layout.

@Gerald Marafioti some days I regret tearing down my original layout. Maybe rather than a full tear down on yours do some modifications?

@Harry's Trains I like the looks of the grade crossing. I'll be watching your build.

@Harry's Trains posted:

After several years of planning and preparing, I have finally started work on a basement layout. The layout is approximately 12' by 13' (more precisely, 12' 1" by 13' 4"). The reason for these dimensions is the layout is being built on top of solid core doors, most being 6' 8" long. The doors are supported by steel table legs for shelving units. This has made construction of the benchwork move very fast with almost no cutting save for a notch where a column is located. The pieces are then strapped together from the underside. This yields a modular system that can be disassembled and transported in the future.

Having recently built a switching layout on a single door slab, I like the use of this concept for a larger layout - will be interesting to see how it progresses.  The door slabs are very strong and stable, and relatively economical.  So much for needing 3/4" plywood...

@Gerald Marafioti posted:

Harry ,now you have me thinking about rebuilding my layout over ,the only problem i have is that at 79 years old ,i don't know if i have enough time left to Finnish it  ,i may be biting off more than i could chew ,i will think long & hard about this ,but you sure got my interest up & running .I do enjoy building a layout more than running trains ,so we will see where this leads to. ...

While I understand your sentiments about starting over, unless you're currently in poor health, if building layouts provides enjoyment, I'd say go for it.  You may not know if you'll be able to finish it, but if you don't try then it's guaranteed that you'll never finish.

  RJ  SHIER , Actually i have given a thought to doing some small changes to my layout ,i just haven't figured out if there is anything that would make any sense ,there isn't much room to work with ,i will keep looking maybe eventually i could figure something out.

HARRY'S TRAINS ,Fortunately for me i am currently in good health ,i just hope it stays that way so at least thats in my favor , i  like your answer ,good point  you made .

I've been making some decent progress on the layout. Been focusing on a couple things. One of which is buildings. A few weeks ago I posted this photo of an OGR building that I built and is just waiting on finishing touches. The Woodland Scenics kit seen in the photo will be an appliance store (eventually). I have another kitbashed OGR building I've been working on on-and-off for nearly a year now. Hoping to get that one finished up soon, too. Also recently purchased windows and doors from Scenic Express to build a scale model of a Sears kit house for the layout.

The other thing I've been working on is terrain. Lots of pink foam floating about today!

Also, before I forget again, thought I'd post how my grade crossings were done. The crossings are just foamcore pieces painted. The boards are painted a solid coat of Tamiya German Grey (XF-63).

I then paint faint layers (drybrushing is the closing thing to describe it) of Tamiya Flat Brown (XF-10), Desert Yellow (XF-59), and then a second of Flat Brown.

I then score the lanes that represent wooden planks. I very lightly drybrush Deck Tan (XF-55) using the planks as a guide. A wash of diluted German Grey brings everything together and hides any white that may show through on the score lines. I also use the same techniques on the edges of the foam pieces where they will be visible.

Very nice job, Harry!

Well done!

Peter

Great job on the crossings, i will be copying your technique.

You've given me some great ideas for my own future layout. Those crossings look fantastic. Looking forward to the next layout update. Keep up the good work.

A quick question: What transformer(s) do you use for track power?

Harry,

I'm enjoying following (and learning from) your layout's progress.

Thanks for sharing and keeping us up to date

Thanks everyone! Did a little more pink foam work on the hill scene tonight.

@Dylan the Train Man posted:

A quick question: What transformer(s) do you use for track power?

I use a postwar 275 watt ZW transformer with 7 amp fuses and diodes to protect the electronics in my engines.

Your grade crossings are excellent! Well done.

Hi Harry:

Thanks for sharing your layout project !!!

Great idea to use solid wood doors with readily available legs.

What does GC (in your GC Lines) Stand for ?

A neat pun may be to call your layout Door County Lines !!!   The WS Morrison Doors factory would be a natural !!!

I really like your technique for grade crossings.

It was a pleasure meeting you & @TRAINMANTIM today.  

I look forward to your layout updates !!!

CB&Q Bill

@Harry's Trains This looks like a great layout in a modest space, well done! What is the largest motive power you will be operating on your layout? I have been daydreaming about my own layout and wanted to use 072-080 (4"-offset curves in general) and was advised not to due to the large overhang of larger, articulated locomotives (which I plan to run). If you plan on running any, I would love to know how they perform on your layout!