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How often do you see a car or locomotive out on ebay that looks just like what you need and want and is available for little money – and then you discover that it was cheap for a reason. I had such a buy recently where my desire was stronger than my criticism. The car was indeed in a bad shape with the decal film coming off, the body sat on its trucks in an oblique angle painted with tons of oils. But was a good buy anyway because I learned a lot. And I do now really appreciate the craftsmanship of the early days – the overall dimensions are just right and I love the idea to reflect the long tradition of model railroading by running a piece of equipment that was manufactured when a UP FEF-2 was brand new. 

This is what the car looked like when I got it on my work bench. While partially coming off the decals stuck remarkably in some eras. Since I wanted to avoid complete disassembly I blasted them away with very fine glass powder in the sand blasting machine. Then I scrubbed off all the oil paint with laquer thinner. Outdoors, oh yes. 

I smoothed out the panels with a sanding sponge and it looked O.K. to me. Ladders and grab irons were removed for that step.

The car received then a improvised breaking system so it can travel at eye level without of looking too clumsy.

After priming and painting the car with Tamiya Hull Red the trouble started. I found that the wooden body was still not smooth enough for achieving an acceptable decalling job. I decided to sand the worst spots and fill the gaps with putty used in plastic modelling. 

Better. But that's what you get when avoiding a "full strip". The plywood surface is far from being perfectly smooth. Here I clearly decided in favour of the "antique touch".

Here's the lettered car. I used Tichy Train Group UP Autocar decals that is for A-50-16 class cars of 40 foot length. I love Mr. Tichy's decals, they have a slightly raised surface, slide easily andlook great. 

I customised the lettering a bit to reflect an A-50-14 class car. That included a run of custom decals with builder stencil, building date, revision locale and date etc. Painting information left of the door has not been added and there are still some mistakes in the data but I consider this car as a starting point for future accuracy *smile*


Those of you familiar with UP car lettering will soon find out that the green lettering crew at the Omaha shops in 1944 painted the slogans on the wrong sides of the car. Amazing :-) Let's say that adds an other story to the layout.

 

Do you have similar experiences with wooden car kits? Is there an easy way to fill the cracks and gaps?

Thanks for watching!

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WOW!

You are a true crafts(wo)men and I stress the term whoa!

I usually leave these cars in the box under the table, my frustration is missing doors and smashed details. However, you have brought a whole new light to these.

YOU have rocked me to the core. Thank you.

What trucks do you recommend to achieve the proper ride height?

Keep up the great work!

Thank you very much for the comments! 

J Daddy, I had to shim the cars bolsters quite a bit. In addition, the whole floor wasn't glued perfectly square in the first place so I shimmed the bolsters, too. Once square, I installed the coupler draft gear boxes, put the trucks on and measured it against a Kadee coupler height gauge. The car sat way too low but the limiting factor was the car end casting that limited coupler height.

I compared with prototype pictures and found that shimming the bolsters at the center plate location looked right and left the trucks moving around freely.

I am pretty sure one there is no standard answer to the question since these cars might vary quite a bit from each other. I have a couple of Lobaugh and All Nation cars and I'll have to modernize trucks, couplers and wheels. 

I try to look to a model through many angles and compare to pictures. My non scientist approach ;-)

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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