2-rail joiners?

Atlas makes 2-rail (code 148) and 3-rail (code 215) joiners. The 3-rail joiners look like 2-rail joiners on steroids and definitely don't fit on 2-rail track.

Well I did try to make the Code 215 fit on Code 148! Not a pretty sight! Thanks for the info.

Where can I find some of the Code 148 2-rail joiners? Having a hard time finding them. 

Thanks.   

Try AMHobbies (http://www.amhobbiesonline.com) or Norm's O Scale (http://www.normsoscale.com)

You could also check with JD's Trains....

http://www.jdstrains.com/2railtrack.html

I went to this link for Atlas 2-rail joiners but these are the ones that are on steroids?

http://www.amhobbiesonline.com...cchk=1&Itemid=62

I'm just trying to find those "fishplate" type of joiners.   Unless those ones at the above link are what I need I just need to make them fit?

You might want to check with Lou Cross of Right O Way (559 665 1001).  He has highly detailed 148 joiners.  We had a discussion re Lou almost exactly one year ago on the forum.

Allan

The ones on the link you posted are the 2-rail joiners.

Allan's suggestion about using Lou's joiners is a good one as his are more realistic than the slide-on joiners. You do have more work involved, but they're much more detailed.

Heres a scan of of Lou's catalog....

Rail joiners are at the bottom of this page....

Here is a pic of a code .148 joiner...nickel silver....this from Lou Cross.

Wow Lou's stuff is great! Very nice.

Thanks!

Your welcome...

Hey quick question: I just found on eBay the #7091 joiners. I had the #6091 joiners. I think it's the #7091 ones that I needed?

Thanks for ya'lls patience!

Yes the 7091 joiners are for the 2 rail Atlas track...code .148.

The 6091 is for 3 rail track....glad to be of help.

here is the link to Atlas' web page..with a picture of the 7091's

https://secure.atlasrr.com/ato1/itemdesc.asp?ic=7091&eq=&Tp=

Mystery solved for me. Thanks CWEX.

Basically Lou's joiners are meant to be used with his rail, they fit the rail profile.  I am not 100% but Atlas' is a slightly different profile, so some tweaking is in order.  Maybe someone who has used it on the Atlas product could explain it better.  I am only using his rail so I don't know for sure.

Hi R Nelson,

ROW's cast nickel silver code 148 rail joiners do slide on nicely however they come on a spru and each needs to be cut off and "dressed" a bit. Both ends of each of the two sections of rail one is joining together also require a little prep work but it really isn't very difficult or time consuming. The first few joints I did took a bit longer but it's pretty easy to get the hang of.

This is the way I dress each end of the rail sections. These are code 125 joiners but the same process applies to the code 148 joiners. I use a dremel with their standard #409 cut off wheel to notch the rail as shown in the following photo.

I also use the same cut off wheel to remove the joiners from their spru's and to dress them. Each rail joiner needs some material removed from their center top and bottom sections to accept the notched rail shown above. I've found the Dremel works very well for these tasks.

It takes me around ten minutes or so to dress the respective parts required to join two sections of track together. I think the track joint looks really nice when installed. The following photo is of a nearly completed joint using one of Lou's code 125 joiners and rail.

Chris is also correct, the ROW code 148 NS joiners will not work well at all with Atlas code 148 rail as it's profile is too thick, however the same joiners do fit ME code 148 rail/flex track very nicely.

John

Lou Cross' joiners are the nicest. you can also use Micro Engineering's joiners. they are rather plain jane, but work fine with the Atlas .148 track if you cannot find any others.

When using the thin profile first generation code 157 Atlas 0 scale track, Peco's code 143 #SL-710 FB   0 scale rail joiner makes a nice tight connection.  I prep each joiner with a taper dressed piece of rail to start the installation.  

Incidently, the descriptive word Peco uses on their rail joiner packaging is "conductive".  Not exactly an appropriate word for certain other's joiners.

John, excellent photos..notching the rail does make a nice joint.  Great work there.

Chris

Just to offer a different perspective, I do not/would not solder rail joints. I know several who solder just the curves or every three or four rail lengths, however I find success in a .017" gap at every joint and electrically feed each rail thru an additional spike hole.  To each their own.  No "only one right way" to do most anything.