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Originally Posted by Laidoffsick:

Alex I have watched that video so many times I had to stop. It is so much better than factory sound and smoke, I was ready to take my Challenger off the shelf, down to the bench and tear into it. I have too many projects already to start another one. When I do.... I will definitely get a hold of you because I wouldn't even know where to start ...as in removing the boiler! 

Doug

 

When your ready just let me know, I got you covered

 

Alex

Originally Posted by Laidoffsick:
WB47, yes all the switches are Ross Custom, mostly Regulars (11 degree) with a few 072, 080, and a couple 096

Thanks Alex. The engine in the beginning is the Legacy Bigboy 4014, all stock. I have the same Tmcc Challenger as the one you bought and modified, thats why I had ask you about it because yours sounds so much better now and smokes a ton more. I want to do the same to mine after watching yours. The Bigboy in the video is my Dad's, but I have the same one and want to weather it, just havent had the guts to do it yet.

Sick- Something you may think about.  In constructing rock cliffs, I use old (not the new soft ones) suspended granular cieling tiles.  Break off a strip, add another on top, etc. then seal them and paint them  They look very realistic and are easier, faster, less mess.

D

Originally Posted by New2this:
Sick- Something you may think about.  In constructing rock cliffs, I use old (not the new soft ones) suspended granular cieling tiles.  Break off a strip, add another on top, etc. then seal them and paint them  They look very realistic and are easier, faster, less mess.

D

I have seen that method several times and it looks good. Problem for us with that, is our vertical areas do not have much depth available so the strips would have to be very very thin. The plaster poured rocks are even too thick for some of the spots, that's why we are going to use the geodesic foam, because the rocks are very thin after they are poured and setup. Not to mention they are very flexible to wrap around contours, and can be cut to fit with scissors.... of course before you let them fully set up. The foam method is expsensive, no doubt, but gives us a lot of flexibility.

Originally Posted by Laidoffsick:
Originally Posted by New2this:
Sick- Something you may think about.  In constructing rock cliffs, I use old (not the new soft ones) suspended granular cieling tiles.  Break off a strip, add another on top, etc. then seal them and paint them  They look very realistic and are easier, faster, less mess.

D

I have seen that method several times and it looks good. Problem for us with that, is our vertical areas do not have much depth available so the strips would have to be very very thin..

This is done with the ceiling tile method on a very narrow area:

 

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Thanks Patrick. Another video update, hmmm?? Well we don't have a lot to show from the last one..yet. I've been working on building Dennis Brennan's 7 stall roundhouse for the past month +. We just put in the upper liftout bridge so now we can scenic the canyon walls on both sides of the entrance. Getting that bridge in there was a big accomplishment, not just because it's 60" long and comes out, but it completes the second reverse loop so any train can run anywhere on the layout. From the bottom loop, to the upper loops, around both upper loops, reverse direction, and back down to the bottom.

 

Rock work continues, tunnel liners, tunnel portals, plaster cloth on the hill, painting track while the weather is still somewhat cool, and cutting the floor for the roundhouse are current projects.

 

Technically the layout is completely functional now, and there are only 2 areas of track work that are not complete. The industry area, which we are waiting for buildings so we know exactly where the tracks need to go, and the rest of the engine service area where the sand house, ash pit, and coal tower are going to go. The 2 tracks going into the turntable are too tight for space to put all that stuff, so they are going to be relocated so all the service equipment is together on a couple separate tracks. 

 

Rock cut across the front left side. 

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Rock cut transitions into the hill side cut and enters a tunnel.

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Tunnel portal is just plywood with some trim moulding, primed, sanded, and painted.

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Need more rocks to transition from the hill to the rock cut. 

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TT pit starts to get weathered and tracks painted so I can cut plywood for the RH floor. 

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Both bridges are now in across the front, but they are liftouts....so they lift right out. 

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The upper bridge is a Ross/Atlas kitbash, 58" across.

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The upper bridge completes the reverse loop between the upper loops from Main 1 to Main 2. It gives the ability to run a train up from the lower loop, make the route on the upper loops, and then reverse direction to go back down to the lower loop. 

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The lower bridge is a custom stainless steel bridge from Stainless Unlimited 59". The lower loop has 2 reverse loops to switch directions either way. You can run a train up to the 2nd and 3rd levels, back down to the bottom, and then reverse to head back up again. Its does take some time to make a run on all three tracks and end up where you started from. 

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Its a really fun track plan, and you really have to pay attention when you're running multiple trains, on different tracks, in different directions. One wrong toggle throw and you're going to have a collision, and then a drug test! 

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Last edited by Former Member

I do have to say though that's its summer time in Southern California. Grillin, chillin by the pool, hanging outside, all the guys Birthdays May-July, Fathers day, and and more grillin and chillin. Its tough to work on the layout much in the summer, but we get a few days in when we can. All the projects are so time consuming now, and we jump around from one area to another waiting for glue, paint, and/or plaster to dry. We're going try on focus on getting the front of the layout done. I'm sure my Mom would really appreciate that. Although the completion of the skirt really helps in the front area. All the stuff underneath is out of sight!  

It's not a layout update, but you can ride along from an "on track" point of view. Shows a different perspective of the construction from "inside". There isn't much scenery yet, but you can see the track work around the room. It's a loop around the bottom level, reverses direction, and then heads up the hill to the upper level. Half a lap around Main 2, cross over to main 1, reverse direction through the bridge and back to main 2, and then back down the hill.

 

Last edited by Former Member

Incredible progress as always!

 

I love the roundhouse you are building.  It has given me so many ideas about how to build one.  Are you following a prototype or are you free lancing this one?  Either way, it is incredible.  I liked your idea of using high grade plywood as the base.

 

How are you going to make the roof?

 

Where did you get the windows?  Who makes the turntable?  Is it auto indexing or manual?  If so, is it slow enough to visually control?

 

Love the youtube videos!  Beautiful work and great craftmanship.

Progress is slow, but it's still progress, thank you.

 

The roundhouse is a plaster kit from Dennis Brennan, and based on a prototype back in the PA area. It included everything, along with very detailed instructions, and I have pretty much followed the instructions to the "T" except for the roof. The roof is being cut from 1/16" hard board after making the pattern, stall by stall. The plywood floor was a lot of work by itself, but very critical as far as the holes for the support beams for the RH.

 

The turntable is a Millhouse River 34", and runs on track power through a ERR DC commander, set at 100 speed steps. It moves so slow, you can't tell if it's moving or not. We are going to upgrade to the fully adjustable indexing kit that Millhouse River sells. I seen it on display at York last October, and it's absolutely wonderful. Our RH is in a ways from the edge of the layout, so even though the TT will move very slow, it's kinda hard to see for "eyeballing" the track line ups. Especially with 7 stalls and more tracks to go in after the RH is done. If you have a RH/TT close to the edge of your layout where it's easily seen, you definitely would NOT NEED an indexing kit. 

 

I've seen many of the big steam engines you have, so I assume you will have a large engine facility when you get to building your layout   

Last edited by Former Member
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